Slowhand wrote:
> "Big Rob" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Anyone have a recommendation for a resaw blade for a MM16? I'm
> > considering a 3/4" 3 tpi bi-metal blade from Lenox. The first
project
> > will be cutting 1/8-1/4" veneer off of 12" wide figured maple.
>
> I also own the mm16. There was quite a discussion on this at the
yahoo
> minimax group. Consensus there was the lenox or woodslicer. The
lenox I
> believe was spendier but gave better results. I don't use either. I
use
> Olsen and viking. I prefer Viking. Consensus also said to not use
thin
> kerf blades for making veneer. I personally haven't had a problem
with the
> thin vs fat kerf for veneer slicing. I think it's all a matter of
how your
> technique is and how well your machine is tuned. JMHOYMMV.
> SH
I'll have to check out the yahoo MM group. I remember the MM guys
mentioning something about a MM users group.....
"Big Rob" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Anyone have a recommendation for a resaw blade for a MM16? I'm
> considering a 3/4" 3 tpi bi-metal blade from Lenox. The first project
> will be cutting 1/8-1/4" veneer off of 12" wide figured maple.
I also own the mm16. There was quite a discussion on this at the yahoo
minimax group. Consensus there was the lenox or woodslicer. The lenox I
believe was spendier but gave better results. I don't use either. I use
Olsen and viking. I prefer Viking. Consensus also said to not use thin
kerf blades for making veneer. I personally haven't had a problem with the
thin vs fat kerf for veneer slicing. I think it's all a matter of how your
technique is and how well your machine is tuned. JMHOYMMV.
SH
"Big Rob" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Slowhand wrote:
>> "Big Rob" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> > Anyone have a recommendation for a resaw blade for a MM16? I'm
>> > considering a 3/4" 3 tpi bi-metal blade from Lenox. The first
> project
>> > will be cutting 1/8-1/4" veneer off of 12" wide figured maple.
>>
>> I also own the mm16. There was quite a discussion on this at the
> yahoo
>> minimax group. Consensus there was the lenox or woodslicer. The
> lenox I
>> believe was spendier but gave better results. I don't use either. I
> use
>> Olsen and viking. I prefer Viking. Consensus also said to not use
> thin
>> kerf blades for making veneer. I personally haven't had a problem
> with the
>> thin vs fat kerf for veneer slicing. I think it's all a matter of
> how your
>> technique is and how well your machine is tuned. JMHOYMMV.
>> SH
>
> I'll have to check out the yahoo MM group. I remember the MM guys
> mentioning something about a MM users group.....
They're kind of a chatty group. It's a good reference though. I downloaded
a users manual for the mm16 which is useful. I highly recommend the manual
as the one that comes with the machine is not real useful.
SH
>
Big Rob wrote:
>
> Anyone have a recommendation for a resaw blade for a MM16? I'm
> considering a 3/4" 3 tpi bi-metal blade from Lenox. The first project
> will be cutting 1/8-1/4" veneer off of 12" wide figured maple.
>
> Robert
When I got my bandsaw (LT16SEC), I thought that you needed
a wide blade for resawing. Since this saw would take a 1 1/4"
blade I got one. What a PITA. Ever uncoiled a 130" 1 1/4"
blade? Never did try to recoil it. Was a PITA to get on the
bandsaw and tensioning it wasn't fun either. That much blade
in the cut means more friction. Wider ain't always better,
despite that car ad.
Then I sat in on a demonstration by Michael Fortune, a
Canadian furntiure maker / teacher who does a lot of
laminated pieces that involve lots of resawing. "Don't
spend a lot of money on one blade. Get 5, 1/2". 3 TPI, hook
toothed blades for about the same price as one "good blade"
When a blade starts getting dull change it. When you
get down to 2 new blades order 5 more. Sharp is what's
important, not price."
And it doesn't hurt to having the saw set up well, proper
tension, good guides set right AND a fence that can be
set to the blade's drift/lead angle.
(when the Timberwolf blades I've got starts getting dull . . .)
charlie b
On Thu, 10 Feb 2005 14:21:07 -0700, Big Rob wrote
(in article <[email protected]>):
> Anyone have a recommendation for a resaw blade for a MM16? I'm
> considering a 3/4" 3 tpi bi-metal blade from Lenox. The first project
> will be cutting 1/8-1/4" veneer off of 12" wide figured maple.
>
> Robert
>
I ordered a 1" 4tpi Timberwolf for my mm16. Basically it sucked for 10" white
oak. I have the Olson that came with the saw still to try but I may splurge
on the woodslicer or lennox when I have more resawing to do.
-Bruce
I asked the same question of the owner at R&D Bandsaw (Tufftooth)just
last weekend...
The blade you are thinking of seems pretty close to the following link.
So I guess it's a good choice.
http://www.tufftooth.com/silicon-new.html
The Bandsaw I use is the 1433FX - Industrial
http://www.kingcanada.com/Products.htm?CD=104&ID=58
So you can judge the similarity - I have the riser block and use a 105"
blade.
All his bandsaw advice has panned out so far.
FWIW
Big Rob wrote:
> Anyone have a recommendation for a resaw blade for a MM16? I'm
> considering a 3/4" 3 tpi bi-metal blade from Lenox. The first project
> will be cutting 1/8-1/4" veneer off of 12" wide figured maple.
>
> Robert
>
--
Will
Occasional Techno-geek