I just finished an 8/4 cherry mantel for a women that wanted a
traditional hand planed look, and boy did I spend some time with my
cabinet scrapers! The boss did the bulk of the actual planing, and
then cut me loose to clean up the wild grain. Unfortunately we don't
have a scraper plane. (LV here I come...when I get more $$$ this is
on its way - http://tinyurl.com/29qz5).
As such, I put my existing LV scrapers/jointer/variable burnisher to
work and knocked down the rough spots with thumb power. They worked
phenomenally well, and I wore my best "I told you so" look for those
that had been giving me disparaging looks while I took 15 minutes to
get them all honed and hooked properly.
A couple of observations. The first rule of scraping is to tune your
scrapers. The second rule of scraping is TO TUNE YOUR SCRAPERS!!
Once you get them sharp, things go much easier. I started by looking
for areas of obvious tear out, and went at them with a fairly thin
scraper so I could really localize my efforts without killing myself
keeping the blade flexed.
(Note: While the jointer/burnisher from Veritas worked excellently, I
abandoned their scraper holder for this task, as it didn't allow me
enough control for really localizing my work - which I wanted to do to
avoid too much flattening out of the wavy plane marks.)
Once the deeper divots were removed, I'd take a couple of longer,
wider passes to sort of even out the crater, so to speak. You've got
to play with the angle of attack as well as the direction of scraping
to really get a clean cut, and you can't be timid about it. I try to
really get the scraper moving and then ease it down into and then out
of the workpiece. The learning curve was steep for me, thank god!
Once I'd gone over all of the obvious dents, dings and gouges, I moved
along to the noticeably rough areas of raised grain. These I attacked
with a somewhat thicker scraper, using a few longer, harder passes.
When using a fresh edge, it cut like a dream, and the was really all
it took. After that, I took a break.
Upon return, I took some 220 and lightly went over the whole thing.
This revealed other, less noticeable rough spots, which I handled the
same way as above. Again, be careful of the grain. With knot holes I
generally found the working from the center out was the best, but
there were exceptions. You'll probably get it *close* to perfect a
couple of times, only to ruin it with just *one more scrape".
DAMHIKT.
After the surface was smoothed, we finished it off with some 220, and
then oiled it. It looks EXCELLENT! What a beautiful piece of wood.
I swear if I fondled LOML the same as that piece of cherry I'd get
breakfast in bed every morning.
IMPORTANT PART: Scrapers have 8 edges, all of which_can_be used. I
found that I prefer to slightly round off the corners, as the long
edges are bowed anyays, and with with the shorter ones (which I really
don't use) you don't want to snag the corner and create a groove.
What I do is put a piece of tape on each side, and mark the hook angle
setting I used on the variable burnisher. I found that if I went over
6 or 7 degrees it just grabbed too much, so all were done from 2 to 5
degrees. I also marked each of the long edges 1 through 4. This
worked excellently for me, as I didn't have to fumble around trying to
find a sharp edge each time. I'd just start at 1, and when it got
dull I'd flip it to 2 and so on. What I'lll probably do is get a
dozen or so different scrapers, number each edge with an etcher, and
also mark the hook angle I'm keeping it at. When I really get
organized, I'll label each thickness as well. Then I can just mark in
my journal that the "0.6 mil 4 deg hook scraper took out knot marks
like a champ on Mrs. Havisham's cherry mantel". When I get truly
insane, I'll even mark the hardness of the scraper on there.
How satisfying to see that first coat of finish bring life to that
mantel. <sigh> I believe I've found my calling....
JP
*************************************
.6m 4deg Rc50
"jd" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Hay Jay fix your clock!
And so the games begin....
I'll see your Bic lighter...and rasie you one Zippo and a lecture
about copyright morals.
JP
****************************
Can we pleeeeze have a little controversy here?
>"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> I just finished an 8/4 cherry mantel for a women that wanted a
>> traditional hand planed look, and boy did I spend some time with my
>> cabinet scrapers! The boss did the bulk of the actual planing, and
>> then cut me loose to clean up the wild grain. Unfortunately we don't
>> have a scraper plane. (LV here I come...when I get more $$$ this is
>> on its way - http://tinyurl.com/29qz5).
>>
>> As such, I put my existing LV scrapers/jointer/variable burnisher to
>> work and knocked down the rough spots with thumb power. They worked
>> phenomenally well, and I wore my best "I told you so" look for those
>> that had been giving me disparaging looks while I took 15 minutes to
>> get them all honed and hooked properly.
>>
>> A couple of observations. The first rule of scraping is to tune your
>> scrapers. The second rule of scraping is TO TUNE YOUR SCRAPERS!!
>> Once you get them sharp, things go much easier. I started by looking
>> for areas of obvious tear out, and went at them with a fairly thin
>> scraper so I could really localize my efforts without killing myself
>> keeping the blade flexed.
>> (Note: While the jointer/burnisher from Veritas worked excellently, I
>> abandoned their scraper holder for this task, as it didn't allow me
>> enough control for really localizing my work - which I wanted to do to
>> avoid too much flattening out of the wavy plane marks.)
>> Once the deeper divots were removed, I'd take a couple of longer,
>> wider passes to sort of even out the crater, so to speak. You've got
>> to play with the angle of attack as well as the direction of scraping
>> to really get a clean cut, and you can't be timid about it. I try to
>> really get the scraper moving and then ease it down into and then out
>> of the workpiece. The learning curve was steep for me, thank god!
>>
>> Once I'd gone over all of the obvious dents, dings and gouges, I moved
>> along to the noticeably rough areas of raised grain. These I attacked
>> with a somewhat thicker scraper, using a few longer, harder passes.
>> When using a fresh edge, it cut like a dream, and the was really all
>> it took. After that, I took a break.
>>
>> Upon return, I took some 220 and lightly went over the whole thing.
>> This revealed other, less noticeable rough spots, which I handled the
>> same way as above. Again, be careful of the grain. With knot holes I
>> generally found the working from the center out was the best, but
>> there were exceptions. You'll probably get it *close* to perfect a
>> couple of times, only to ruin it with just *one more scrape".
>> DAMHIKT.
>>
>> After the surface was smoothed, we finished it off with some 220, and
>> then oiled it. It looks EXCELLENT! What a beautiful piece of wood.
>> I swear if I fondled LOML the same as that piece of cherry I'd get
>> breakfast in bed every morning.
>>
>> IMPORTANT PART: Scrapers have 8 edges, all of which_can_be used. I
>> found that I prefer to slightly round off the corners, as the long
>> edges are bowed anyays, and with with the shorter ones (which I really
>> don't use) you don't want to snag the corner and create a groove.
>> What I do is put a piece of tape on each side, and mark the hook angle
>> setting I used on the variable burnisher. I found that if I went over
>> 6 or 7 degrees it just grabbed too much, so all were done from 2 to 5
>> degrees. I also marked each of the long edges 1 through 4. This
>> worked excellently for me, as I didn't have to fumble around trying to
>> find a sharp edge each time. I'd just start at 1, and when it got
>> dull I'd flip it to 2 and so on. What I'lll probably do is get a
>> dozen or so different scrapers, number each edge with an etcher, and
>> also mark the hook angle I'm keeping it at. When I really get
>> organized, I'll label each thickness as well. Then I can just mark in
>> my journal that the "0.6 mil 4 deg hook scraper took out knot marks
>> like a champ on Mrs. Havisham's cherry mantel". When I get truly
>> insane, I'll even mark the hardness of the scraper on there.
>>
>> How satisfying to see that first coat of finish bring life to that
>> mantel. <sigh> I believe I've found my calling....
>>
>> JP
>> *************************************
>> .6m 4deg Rc50
>
"jd" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Opps, sorry if I was wrong also. My news reader showed your posts as being a day ahead. Even the
>replies are dated before your initial post. My apologies. I read most posts here and your name has
>never stood out as a trouble maker. When I read your reply I did take it the wrong way, guess I need
>to lighten up. Damm Outlook :)
>
>(gotta blame something)
Egads! You're right! The time was right - but not the date. Sorry
for the confusion.
JP
>"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Sun, 22 Feb 2004 16:43:42 -0500, "jd" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >Holy cow a flame war for stating your system clock is wrong? Sorry I don't argue with someone I
>> >can't look in the eye. Go kick the cat or something.
>>
>> LOL. Jeez man I was just kidding - my clock is right. I thought you
>> were poking at me for posting so late!
>>
>> JP
>>
>>
>> >"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> >news:[email protected]...
>> >> "jd" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> >Hay Jay fix your clock!
>> >>
>> >> And so the games begin....
>> >>
>> >> I'll see your Bic lighter...and rasie you one Zippo and a lecture
>> >> about copyright morals.
>> >>
>> >> JP
>> >> ****************************
>> >> Can we pleeeeze have a little controversy here?
>> >>
>> >> >"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> >> >news:[email protected]...
>> >> >> I just finished an 8/4 cherry mantel for a women that wanted a
>> >> >> traditional hand planed look, and boy did I spend some time with my
>> >> >> cabinet scrapers! The boss did the bulk of the actual planing, and
>> >> >> then cut me loose to clean up the wild grain. Unfortunately we don't
>> >> >> have a scraper plane. (LV here I come...when I get more $$$ this is
>> >> >> on its way - http://tinyurl.com/29qz5).
>> >> >>
>> >> >> As such, I put my existing LV scrapers/jointer/variable burnisher to
>> >> >> work and knocked down the rough spots with thumb power. They worked
>> >> >> phenomenally well, and I wore my best "I told you so" look for those
>> >> >> that had been giving me disparaging looks while I took 15 minutes to
>> >> >> get them all honed and hooked properly.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> A couple of observations. The first rule of scraping is to tune your
>> >> >> scrapers. The second rule of scraping is TO TUNE YOUR SCRAPERS!!
>> >> >> Once you get them sharp, things go much easier. I started by looking
>> >> >> for areas of obvious tear out, and went at them with a fairly thin
>> >> >> scraper so I could really localize my efforts without killing myself
>> >> >> keeping the blade flexed.
>> >> >> (Note: While the jointer/burnisher from Veritas worked excellently, I
>> >> >> abandoned their scraper holder for this task, as it didn't allow me
>> >> >> enough control for really localizing my work - which I wanted to do to
>> >> >> avoid too much flattening out of the wavy plane marks.)
>> >> >> Once the deeper divots were removed, I'd take a couple of longer,
>> >> >> wider passes to sort of even out the crater, so to speak. You've got
>> >> >> to play with the angle of attack as well as the direction of scraping
>> >> >> to really get a clean cut, and you can't be timid about it. I try to
>> >> >> really get the scraper moving and then ease it down into and then out
>> >> >> of the workpiece. The learning curve was steep for me, thank god!
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Once I'd gone over all of the obvious dents, dings and gouges, I moved
>> >> >> along to the noticeably rough areas of raised grain. These I attacked
>> >> >> with a somewhat thicker scraper, using a few longer, harder passes.
>> >> >> When using a fresh edge, it cut like a dream, and the was really all
>> >> >> it took. After that, I took a break.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Upon return, I took some 220 and lightly went over the whole thing.
>> >> >> This revealed other, less noticeable rough spots, which I handled the
>> >> >> same way as above. Again, be careful of the grain. With knot holes I
>> >> >> generally found the working from the center out was the best, but
>> >> >> there were exceptions. You'll probably get it *close* to perfect a
>> >> >> couple of times, only to ruin it with just *one more scrape".
>> >> >> DAMHIKT.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> After the surface was smoothed, we finished it off with some 220, and
>> >> >> then oiled it. It looks EXCELLENT! What a beautiful piece of wood.
>> >> >> I swear if I fondled LOML the same as that piece of cherry I'd get
>> >> >> breakfast in bed every morning.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> IMPORTANT PART: Scrapers have 8 edges, all of which_can_be used. I
>> >> >> found that I prefer to slightly round off the corners, as the long
>> >> >> edges are bowed anyays, and with with the shorter ones (which I really
>> >> >> don't use) you don't want to snag the corner and create a groove.
>> >> >> What I do is put a piece of tape on each side, and mark the hook angle
>> >> >> setting I used on the variable burnisher. I found that if I went over
>> >> >> 6 or 7 degrees it just grabbed too much, so all were done from 2 to 5
>> >> >> degrees. I also marked each of the long edges 1 through 4. This
>> >> >> worked excellently for me, as I didn't have to fumble around trying to
>> >> >> find a sharp edge each time. I'd just start at 1, and when it got
>> >> >> dull I'd flip it to 2 and so on. What I'lll probably do is get a
>> >> >> dozen or so different scrapers, number each edge with an etcher, and
>> >> >> also mark the hook angle I'm keeping it at. When I really get
>> >> >> organized, I'll label each thickness as well. Then I can just mark in
>> >> >> my journal that the "0.6 mil 4 deg hook scraper took out knot marks
>> >> >> like a champ on Mrs. Havisham's cherry mantel". When I get truly
>> >> >> insane, I'll even mark the hardness of the scraper on there.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> How satisfying to see that first coat of finish bring life to that
>> >> >> mantel. <sigh> I believe I've found my calling....
>> >> >>
>> >> >> JP
>> >> >> *************************************
>> >> >> .6m 4deg Rc50
>> >> >
>> >>
>> >
>>
>
On Sun, 22 Feb 2004 16:43:42 -0500, "jd" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Holy cow a flame war for stating your system clock is wrong? Sorry I don't argue with someone I
>can't look in the eye. Go kick the cat or something.
LOL. Jeez man I was just kidding - my clock is right. I thought you
were poking at me for posting so late!
JP
>"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> "jd" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >Hay Jay fix your clock!
>>
>> And so the games begin....
>>
>> I'll see your Bic lighter...and rasie you one Zippo and a lecture
>> about copyright morals.
>>
>> JP
>> ****************************
>> Can we pleeeeze have a little controversy here?
>>
>> >"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> >news:[email protected]...
>> >> I just finished an 8/4 cherry mantel for a women that wanted a
>> >> traditional hand planed look, and boy did I spend some time with my
>> >> cabinet scrapers! The boss did the bulk of the actual planing, and
>> >> then cut me loose to clean up the wild grain. Unfortunately we don't
>> >> have a scraper plane. (LV here I come...when I get more $$$ this is
>> >> on its way - http://tinyurl.com/29qz5).
>> >>
>> >> As such, I put my existing LV scrapers/jointer/variable burnisher to
>> >> work and knocked down the rough spots with thumb power. They worked
>> >> phenomenally well, and I wore my best "I told you so" look for those
>> >> that had been giving me disparaging looks while I took 15 minutes to
>> >> get them all honed and hooked properly.
>> >>
>> >> A couple of observations. The first rule of scraping is to tune your
>> >> scrapers. The second rule of scraping is TO TUNE YOUR SCRAPERS!!
>> >> Once you get them sharp, things go much easier. I started by looking
>> >> for areas of obvious tear out, and went at them with a fairly thin
>> >> scraper so I could really localize my efforts without killing myself
>> >> keeping the blade flexed.
>> >> (Note: While the jointer/burnisher from Veritas worked excellently, I
>> >> abandoned their scraper holder for this task, as it didn't allow me
>> >> enough control for really localizing my work - which I wanted to do to
>> >> avoid too much flattening out of the wavy plane marks.)
>> >> Once the deeper divots were removed, I'd take a couple of longer,
>> >> wider passes to sort of even out the crater, so to speak. You've got
>> >> to play with the angle of attack as well as the direction of scraping
>> >> to really get a clean cut, and you can't be timid about it. I try to
>> >> really get the scraper moving and then ease it down into and then out
>> >> of the workpiece. The learning curve was steep for me, thank god!
>> >>
>> >> Once I'd gone over all of the obvious dents, dings and gouges, I moved
>> >> along to the noticeably rough areas of raised grain. These I attacked
>> >> with a somewhat thicker scraper, using a few longer, harder passes.
>> >> When using a fresh edge, it cut like a dream, and the was really all
>> >> it took. After that, I took a break.
>> >>
>> >> Upon return, I took some 220 and lightly went over the whole thing.
>> >> This revealed other, less noticeable rough spots, which I handled the
>> >> same way as above. Again, be careful of the grain. With knot holes I
>> >> generally found the working from the center out was the best, but
>> >> there were exceptions. You'll probably get it *close* to perfect a
>> >> couple of times, only to ruin it with just *one more scrape".
>> >> DAMHIKT.
>> >>
>> >> After the surface was smoothed, we finished it off with some 220, and
>> >> then oiled it. It looks EXCELLENT! What a beautiful piece of wood.
>> >> I swear if I fondled LOML the same as that piece of cherry I'd get
>> >> breakfast in bed every morning.
>> >>
>> >> IMPORTANT PART: Scrapers have 8 edges, all of which_can_be used. I
>> >> found that I prefer to slightly round off the corners, as the long
>> >> edges are bowed anyays, and with with the shorter ones (which I really
>> >> don't use) you don't want to snag the corner and create a groove.
>> >> What I do is put a piece of tape on each side, and mark the hook angle
>> >> setting I used on the variable burnisher. I found that if I went over
>> >> 6 or 7 degrees it just grabbed too much, so all were done from 2 to 5
>> >> degrees. I also marked each of the long edges 1 through 4. This
>> >> worked excellently for me, as I didn't have to fumble around trying to
>> >> find a sharp edge each time. I'd just start at 1, and when it got
>> >> dull I'd flip it to 2 and so on. What I'lll probably do is get a
>> >> dozen or so different scrapers, number each edge with an etcher, and
>> >> also mark the hook angle I'm keeping it at. When I really get
>> >> organized, I'll label each thickness as well. Then I can just mark in
>> >> my journal that the "0.6 mil 4 deg hook scraper took out knot marks
>> >> like a champ on Mrs. Havisham's cherry mantel". When I get truly
>> >> insane, I'll even mark the hardness of the scraper on there.
>> >>
>> >> How satisfying to see that first coat of finish bring life to that
>> >> mantel. <sigh> I believe I've found my calling....
>> >>
>> >> JP
>> >> *************************************
>> >> .6m 4deg Rc50
>> >
>>
>
Jay Pique wrote:
> How satisfying to see that first coat of finish bring life to that
> mantel. <sigh> I believe I've found my calling....
Sounds like it's time for some of that Minwhacks all-in-one stain and poly
stuff.
<G, D, & R>
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
Jay Pique <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I just finished an 8/4 cherry mantel for a women that wanted a
> traditional hand planed look, and boy did I spend some time with my
> cabinet scrapers! The boss did the bulk of the actual planing, and
> then cut me loose to clean up the wild grain. Unfortunately we don't
> have a scraper plane. (LV here I come...when I get more $$$ this is
> on its way - http://tinyurl.com/29qz5).
Oh boy, are you gonna love that. :-) I've been using mine a lot
recently, and I really, really, *really* like the flexibility of being
able to use a thick blade or a thinner one that can be bowed like you
would a card scraper or a cabinet scraper (#80). It's a very sweet
tool.
> A couple of observations. The first rule of scraping is to tune your
> scrapers. The second rule of scraping is TO TUNE YOUR SCRAPERS!!
> Once you get them sharp, things go much easier.
Yep, as far as getting it sharp, treat it just like you would a
plane's iron. Concentrate on the edges first, and then come back and
hone the faces. Repeat until it is as sharp as you can get it.
> I started by looking
> for areas of obvious tear out, and went at them with a fairly thin
> scraper so I could really localize my efforts without killing myself
> keeping the blade flexed.
You really shouldn't have to overdo it to concentrate your efforts
in one area. Just keeping your thumbs behind the blade and giving a
good solid grip to it should give you enough bow to hit small areas.
(BTW, LV also sells a set of tiny scrapers that I have played around
with for various uses. They come in handy for touching up non-flat
surfaces, for example.)
> (Note: While the jointer/burnisher from Veritas worked excellently, I
> abandoned their scraper holder for this task, as it didn't allow me
> enough control for really localizing my work - which I wanted to do to
> avoid too much flattening out of the wavy plane marks.)
Yeah, the holder is one tool from LV/Veritas that I've never really
used a lot. It's probably a good idea, but I find that it interferes
with my ability to "turn on a dime" and adjust the angle, bow and
pressure depending on the grain I encounter. (And I usually reach for
a scraper when I'm having trouble with my various smoothers, or when I
need to just focus on a small area.)
> Once the deeper divots were removed, I'd take a couple of longer,
> wider passes to sort of even out the crater, so to speak. You've got
> to play with the angle of attack as well as the direction of scraping
> to really get a clean cut, and you can't be timid about it. I try to
> really get the scraper moving and then ease it down into and then out
> of the workpiece. The learning curve was steep for me, thank god!
It's definitely important to keep the scraper moving and going down
and off in a continuous motion. If you try to start it from a
standstill, you'll get marks at the beginning of your stroke.
> Upon return, I took some 220 and lightly went over the whole thing.
> This revealed other, less noticeable rough spots, which I handled the
> same way as above. Again, be careful of the grain. With knot holes I
> generally found the working from the center out was the best, but
> there were exceptions. You'll probably get it *close* to perfect a
> couple of times, only to ruin it with just *one more scrape".
> DAMHIKT.
Oh yeah, that's happened to me before, but usually with a #80 style
cabinet scraper.
But what's up with using 220 to "touch up" your scraper work? :-)
If you're doing it right, the sandpaper isn't likely to improve the
surface any.
> IMPORTANT PART: Scrapers have 8 edges, all of which_can_be used. I
> found that I prefer to slightly round off the corners, as the long
> edges are bowed anyays, and with with the shorter ones (which I really
> don't use) you don't want to snag the corner and create a groove.
> What I do is put a piece of tape on each side, and mark the hook angle
> setting I used on the variable burnisher. I found that if I went over
> 6 or 7 degrees it just grabbed too much, so all were done from 2 to 5
> degrees. I also marked each of the long edges 1 through 4. This
> worked excellently for me, as I didn't have to fumble around trying to
> find a sharp edge each time. I'd just start at 1, and when it got
> dull I'd flip it to 2 and so on. What I'lll probably do is get a
> dozen or so different scrapers, number each edge with an etcher, and
> also mark the hook angle I'm keeping it at. When I really get
> organized, I'll label each thickness as well. Then I can just mark in
> my journal that the "0.6 mil 4 deg hook scraper took out knot marks
> like a champ on Mrs. Havisham's cherry mantel". When I get truly
> insane, I'll even mark the hardness of the scraper on there.
While I appreciate your enthusiasm, you really don't need to be
quite that scientific about it. :-) Once you get the hang of it, you
can use a simple burnisher and make a couple of passes on each of the
four sides (I don't bother with the ends), and then feel the hook.
Draw one hook to be more extreme than the others, and work your way
back so that you've got one heavy-duty hook and the other three are
all progressively less acute.
You'd be surprised at how easy it is to tell the difference between
the degree of hook simply by drawing your finger across it (obviously
being careful to go at an angle to prevent slicing your finger).
Anyhow, congrats on your scraper epiphany. You'll probably find
yourself looking for excuses to use the things now.
And when you get that Veritas/LV scraper plane, you'll most likely
fall in love. :-)
Chuck Vance
B a r r y <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I learned the technique of using 400 grit to find where I wasn't done
> scraping. The 400 leaves white powder in tearout and mill marks that
> I might not see until later, when I wipe things down with mineral
> spirits. I find the 400 helps me to do a better job at not missing
> anything. Rarely to I find anything missed with the mineral spirits
> if I do the 400 pass. I literally give the surface two swipes with
> the sanding block.
OK, that makes sense. I'm rarely in a situation where milling
marks would come into play, as I plane them away as part of stock
prep. But I do sometimes wind up with localized spots of tearout.
However, I don't recall missing them, as they all seem glaringly
obvious to me. :-}
Another little trick that might come in handy for preventing
tearout in the first place when planing is to hit the surface with a
spitcoat of shellac (about 1/2# cut). It seems to stiffen the wood
fibers just enough so they are severed more cleanly. (This tip was
brought to you by the dearly-missed Paully Rad, the original
Shellacpimpmeister.)
Chuck Vance
Thanks for the great info and tips on scraping. Your post is going in my
Wreck scrapbook. Better then any book I ever read!
Regards,
Kevin B.
"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I just finished an 8/4 cherry mantel for a women that wanted a
> traditional hand planed look, and boy did I spend some time with my
> cabinet scrapers! The boss did the bulk of the actual planing, and
> then cut me loose to clean up the wild grain. Unfortunately we don't
> have a scraper plane. (LV here I come...when I get more $$$ this is
> on its way - http://tinyurl.com/29qz5).
>
> As such, I put my existing LV scrapers/jointer/variable burnisher to
> work and knocked down the rough spots with thumb power. They worked
> phenomenally well, and I wore my best "I told you so" look for those
> that had been giving me disparaging looks while I took 15 minutes to
> get them all honed and hooked properly.
>
> A couple of observations. The first rule of scraping is to tune your
> scrapers. The second rule of scraping is TO TUNE YOUR SCRAPERS!!
> Once you get them sharp, things go much easier. I started by looking
> for areas of obvious tear out, and went at them with a fairly thin
> scraper so I could really localize my efforts without killing myself
> keeping the blade flexed.
> (Note: While the jointer/burnisher from Veritas worked excellently, I
> abandoned their scraper holder for this task, as it didn't allow me
> enough control for really localizing my work - which I wanted to do to
> avoid too much flattening out of the wavy plane marks.)
> Once the deeper divots were removed, I'd take a couple of longer,
> wider passes to sort of even out the crater, so to speak. You've got
> to play with the angle of attack as well as the direction of scraping
> to really get a clean cut, and you can't be timid about it. I try to
> really get the scraper moving and then ease it down into and then out
> of the workpiece. The learning curve was steep for me, thank god!
>
> Once I'd gone over all of the obvious dents, dings and gouges, I moved
> along to the noticeably rough areas of raised grain. These I attacked
> with a somewhat thicker scraper, using a few longer, harder passes.
> When using a fresh edge, it cut like a dream, and the was really all
> it took. After that, I took a break.
>
> Upon return, I took some 220 and lightly went over the whole thing.
> This revealed other, less noticeable rough spots, which I handled the
> same way as above. Again, be careful of the grain. With knot holes I
> generally found the working from the center out was the best, but
> there were exceptions. You'll probably get it *close* to perfect a
> couple of times, only to ruin it with just *one more scrape".
> DAMHIKT.
>
> After the surface was smoothed, we finished it off with some 220, and
> then oiled it. It looks EXCELLENT! What a beautiful piece of wood.
> I swear if I fondled LOML the same as that piece of cherry I'd get
> breakfast in bed every morning.
>
> IMPORTANT PART: Scrapers have 8 edges, all of which_can_be used. I
> found that I prefer to slightly round off the corners, as the long
> edges are bowed anyays, and with with the shorter ones (which I really
> don't use) you don't want to snag the corner and create a groove.
> What I do is put a piece of tape on each side, and mark the hook angle
> setting I used on the variable burnisher. I found that if I went over
> 6 or 7 degrees it just grabbed too much, so all were done from 2 to 5
> degrees. I also marked each of the long edges 1 through 4. This
> worked excellently for me, as I didn't have to fumble around trying to
> find a sharp edge each time. I'd just start at 1, and when it got
> dull I'd flip it to 2 and so on. What I'lll probably do is get a
> dozen or so different scrapers, number each edge with an etcher, and
> also mark the hook angle I'm keeping it at. When I really get
> organized, I'll label each thickness as well. Then I can just mark in
> my journal that the "0.6 mil 4 deg hook scraper took out knot marks
> like a champ on Mrs. Havisham's cherry mantel". When I get truly
> insane, I'll even mark the hardness of the scraper on there.
>
> How satisfying to see that first coat of finish bring life to that
> mantel. <sigh> I believe I've found my calling....
>
> JP
> *************************************
> .6m 4deg Rc50
Hay Jay fix your clock!
"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I just finished an 8/4 cherry mantel for a women that wanted a
> traditional hand planed look, and boy did I spend some time with my
> cabinet scrapers! The boss did the bulk of the actual planing, and
> then cut me loose to clean up the wild grain. Unfortunately we don't
> have a scraper plane. (LV here I come...when I get more $$$ this is
> on its way - http://tinyurl.com/29qz5).
>
> As such, I put my existing LV scrapers/jointer/variable burnisher to
> work and knocked down the rough spots with thumb power. They worked
> phenomenally well, and I wore my best "I told you so" look for those
> that had been giving me disparaging looks while I took 15 minutes to
> get them all honed and hooked properly.
>
> A couple of observations. The first rule of scraping is to tune your
> scrapers. The second rule of scraping is TO TUNE YOUR SCRAPERS!!
> Once you get them sharp, things go much easier. I started by looking
> for areas of obvious tear out, and went at them with a fairly thin
> scraper so I could really localize my efforts without killing myself
> keeping the blade flexed.
> (Note: While the jointer/burnisher from Veritas worked excellently, I
> abandoned their scraper holder for this task, as it didn't allow me
> enough control for really localizing my work - which I wanted to do to
> avoid too much flattening out of the wavy plane marks.)
> Once the deeper divots were removed, I'd take a couple of longer,
> wider passes to sort of even out the crater, so to speak. You've got
> to play with the angle of attack as well as the direction of scraping
> to really get a clean cut, and you can't be timid about it. I try to
> really get the scraper moving and then ease it down into and then out
> of the workpiece. The learning curve was steep for me, thank god!
>
> Once I'd gone over all of the obvious dents, dings and gouges, I moved
> along to the noticeably rough areas of raised grain. These I attacked
> with a somewhat thicker scraper, using a few longer, harder passes.
> When using a fresh edge, it cut like a dream, and the was really all
> it took. After that, I took a break.
>
> Upon return, I took some 220 and lightly went over the whole thing.
> This revealed other, less noticeable rough spots, which I handled the
> same way as above. Again, be careful of the grain. With knot holes I
> generally found the working from the center out was the best, but
> there were exceptions. You'll probably get it *close* to perfect a
> couple of times, only to ruin it with just *one more scrape".
> DAMHIKT.
>
> After the surface was smoothed, we finished it off with some 220, and
> then oiled it. It looks EXCELLENT! What a beautiful piece of wood.
> I swear if I fondled LOML the same as that piece of cherry I'd get
> breakfast in bed every morning.
>
> IMPORTANT PART: Scrapers have 8 edges, all of which_can_be used. I
> found that I prefer to slightly round off the corners, as the long
> edges are bowed anyays, and with with the shorter ones (which I really
> don't use) you don't want to snag the corner and create a groove.
> What I do is put a piece of tape on each side, and mark the hook angle
> setting I used on the variable burnisher. I found that if I went over
> 6 or 7 degrees it just grabbed too much, so all were done from 2 to 5
> degrees. I also marked each of the long edges 1 through 4. This
> worked excellently for me, as I didn't have to fumble around trying to
> find a sharp edge each time. I'd just start at 1, and when it got
> dull I'd flip it to 2 and so on. What I'lll probably do is get a
> dozen or so different scrapers, number each edge with an etcher, and
> also mark the hook angle I'm keeping it at. When I really get
> organized, I'll label each thickness as well. Then I can just mark in
> my journal that the "0.6 mil 4 deg hook scraper took out knot marks
> like a champ on Mrs. Havisham's cherry mantel". When I get truly
> insane, I'll even mark the hardness of the scraper on there.
>
> How satisfying to see that first coat of finish bring life to that
> mantel. <sigh> I believe I've found my calling....
>
> JP
> *************************************
> .6m 4deg Rc50
Holy cow a flame war for stating your system clock is wrong? Sorry I don't argue with someone I
can't look in the eye. Go kick the cat or something.
"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "jd" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Hay Jay fix your clock!
>
> And so the games begin....
>
> I'll see your Bic lighter...and rasie you one Zippo and a lecture
> about copyright morals.
>
> JP
> ****************************
> Can we pleeeeze have a little controversy here?
>
> >"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> I just finished an 8/4 cherry mantel for a women that wanted a
> >> traditional hand planed look, and boy did I spend some time with my
> >> cabinet scrapers! The boss did the bulk of the actual planing, and
> >> then cut me loose to clean up the wild grain. Unfortunately we don't
> >> have a scraper plane. (LV here I come...when I get more $$$ this is
> >> on its way - http://tinyurl.com/29qz5).
> >>
> >> As such, I put my existing LV scrapers/jointer/variable burnisher to
> >> work and knocked down the rough spots with thumb power. They worked
> >> phenomenally well, and I wore my best "I told you so" look for those
> >> that had been giving me disparaging looks while I took 15 minutes to
> >> get them all honed and hooked properly.
> >>
> >> A couple of observations. The first rule of scraping is to tune your
> >> scrapers. The second rule of scraping is TO TUNE YOUR SCRAPERS!!
> >> Once you get them sharp, things go much easier. I started by looking
> >> for areas of obvious tear out, and went at them with a fairly thin
> >> scraper so I could really localize my efforts without killing myself
> >> keeping the blade flexed.
> >> (Note: While the jointer/burnisher from Veritas worked excellently, I
> >> abandoned their scraper holder for this task, as it didn't allow me
> >> enough control for really localizing my work - which I wanted to do to
> >> avoid too much flattening out of the wavy plane marks.)
> >> Once the deeper divots were removed, I'd take a couple of longer,
> >> wider passes to sort of even out the crater, so to speak. You've got
> >> to play with the angle of attack as well as the direction of scraping
> >> to really get a clean cut, and you can't be timid about it. I try to
> >> really get the scraper moving and then ease it down into and then out
> >> of the workpiece. The learning curve was steep for me, thank god!
> >>
> >> Once I'd gone over all of the obvious dents, dings and gouges, I moved
> >> along to the noticeably rough areas of raised grain. These I attacked
> >> with a somewhat thicker scraper, using a few longer, harder passes.
> >> When using a fresh edge, it cut like a dream, and the was really all
> >> it took. After that, I took a break.
> >>
> >> Upon return, I took some 220 and lightly went over the whole thing.
> >> This revealed other, less noticeable rough spots, which I handled the
> >> same way as above. Again, be careful of the grain. With knot holes I
> >> generally found the working from the center out was the best, but
> >> there were exceptions. You'll probably get it *close* to perfect a
> >> couple of times, only to ruin it with just *one more scrape".
> >> DAMHIKT.
> >>
> >> After the surface was smoothed, we finished it off with some 220, and
> >> then oiled it. It looks EXCELLENT! What a beautiful piece of wood.
> >> I swear if I fondled LOML the same as that piece of cherry I'd get
> >> breakfast in bed every morning.
> >>
> >> IMPORTANT PART: Scrapers have 8 edges, all of which_can_be used. I
> >> found that I prefer to slightly round off the corners, as the long
> >> edges are bowed anyays, and with with the shorter ones (which I really
> >> don't use) you don't want to snag the corner and create a groove.
> >> What I do is put a piece of tape on each side, and mark the hook angle
> >> setting I used on the variable burnisher. I found that if I went over
> >> 6 or 7 degrees it just grabbed too much, so all were done from 2 to 5
> >> degrees. I also marked each of the long edges 1 through 4. This
> >> worked excellently for me, as I didn't have to fumble around trying to
> >> find a sharp edge each time. I'd just start at 1, and when it got
> >> dull I'd flip it to 2 and so on. What I'lll probably do is get a
> >> dozen or so different scrapers, number each edge with an etcher, and
> >> also mark the hook angle I'm keeping it at. When I really get
> >> organized, I'll label each thickness as well. Then I can just mark in
> >> my journal that the "0.6 mil 4 deg hook scraper took out knot marks
> >> like a champ on Mrs. Havisham's cherry mantel". When I get truly
> >> insane, I'll even mark the hardness of the scraper on there.
> >>
> >> How satisfying to see that first coat of finish bring life to that
> >> mantel. <sigh> I believe I've found my calling....
> >>
> >> JP
> >> *************************************
> >> .6m 4deg Rc50
> >
>
Opps, sorry if I was wrong also. My news reader showed your posts as being a day ahead. Even the
replies are dated before your initial post. My apologies. I read most posts here and your name has
never stood out as a trouble maker. When I read your reply I did take it the wrong way, guess I need
to lighten up. Damm Outlook :)
(gotta blame something)
"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 22 Feb 2004 16:43:42 -0500, "jd" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Holy cow a flame war for stating your system clock is wrong? Sorry I don't argue with someone I
> >can't look in the eye. Go kick the cat or something.
>
> LOL. Jeez man I was just kidding - my clock is right. I thought you
> were poking at me for posting so late!
>
> JP
>
>
> >"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> "jd" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >>
> >> >Hay Jay fix your clock!
> >>
> >> And so the games begin....
> >>
> >> I'll see your Bic lighter...and rasie you one Zippo and a lecture
> >> about copyright morals.
> >>
> >> JP
> >> ****************************
> >> Can we pleeeeze have a little controversy here?
> >>
> >> >"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >> >news:[email protected]...
> >> >> I just finished an 8/4 cherry mantel for a women that wanted a
> >> >> traditional hand planed look, and boy did I spend some time with my
> >> >> cabinet scrapers! The boss did the bulk of the actual planing, and
> >> >> then cut me loose to clean up the wild grain. Unfortunately we don't
> >> >> have a scraper plane. (LV here I come...when I get more $$$ this is
> >> >> on its way - http://tinyurl.com/29qz5).
> >> >>
> >> >> As such, I put my existing LV scrapers/jointer/variable burnisher to
> >> >> work and knocked down the rough spots with thumb power. They worked
> >> >> phenomenally well, and I wore my best "I told you so" look for those
> >> >> that had been giving me disparaging looks while I took 15 minutes to
> >> >> get them all honed and hooked properly.
> >> >>
> >> >> A couple of observations. The first rule of scraping is to tune your
> >> >> scrapers. The second rule of scraping is TO TUNE YOUR SCRAPERS!!
> >> >> Once you get them sharp, things go much easier. I started by looking
> >> >> for areas of obvious tear out, and went at them with a fairly thin
> >> >> scraper so I could really localize my efforts without killing myself
> >> >> keeping the blade flexed.
> >> >> (Note: While the jointer/burnisher from Veritas worked excellently, I
> >> >> abandoned their scraper holder for this task, as it didn't allow me
> >> >> enough control for really localizing my work - which I wanted to do to
> >> >> avoid too much flattening out of the wavy plane marks.)
> >> >> Once the deeper divots were removed, I'd take a couple of longer,
> >> >> wider passes to sort of even out the crater, so to speak. You've got
> >> >> to play with the angle of attack as well as the direction of scraping
> >> >> to really get a clean cut, and you can't be timid about it. I try to
> >> >> really get the scraper moving and then ease it down into and then out
> >> >> of the workpiece. The learning curve was steep for me, thank god!
> >> >>
> >> >> Once I'd gone over all of the obvious dents, dings and gouges, I moved
> >> >> along to the noticeably rough areas of raised grain. These I attacked
> >> >> with a somewhat thicker scraper, using a few longer, harder passes.
> >> >> When using a fresh edge, it cut like a dream, and the was really all
> >> >> it took. After that, I took a break.
> >> >>
> >> >> Upon return, I took some 220 and lightly went over the whole thing.
> >> >> This revealed other, less noticeable rough spots, which I handled the
> >> >> same way as above. Again, be careful of the grain. With knot holes I
> >> >> generally found the working from the center out was the best, but
> >> >> there were exceptions. You'll probably get it *close* to perfect a
> >> >> couple of times, only to ruin it with just *one more scrape".
> >> >> DAMHIKT.
> >> >>
> >> >> After the surface was smoothed, we finished it off with some 220, and
> >> >> then oiled it. It looks EXCELLENT! What a beautiful piece of wood.
> >> >> I swear if I fondled LOML the same as that piece of cherry I'd get
> >> >> breakfast in bed every morning.
> >> >>
> >> >> IMPORTANT PART: Scrapers have 8 edges, all of which_can_be used. I
> >> >> found that I prefer to slightly round off the corners, as the long
> >> >> edges are bowed anyays, and with with the shorter ones (which I really
> >> >> don't use) you don't want to snag the corner and create a groove.
> >> >> What I do is put a piece of tape on each side, and mark the hook angle
> >> >> setting I used on the variable burnisher. I found that if I went over
> >> >> 6 or 7 degrees it just grabbed too much, so all were done from 2 to 5
> >> >> degrees. I also marked each of the long edges 1 through 4. This
> >> >> worked excellently for me, as I didn't have to fumble around trying to
> >> >> find a sharp edge each time. I'd just start at 1, and when it got
> >> >> dull I'd flip it to 2 and so on. What I'lll probably do is get a
> >> >> dozen or so different scrapers, number each edge with an etcher, and
> >> >> also mark the hook angle I'm keeping it at. When I really get
> >> >> organized, I'll label each thickness as well. Then I can just mark in
> >> >> my journal that the "0.6 mil 4 deg hook scraper took out knot marks
> >> >> like a champ on Mrs. Havisham's cherry mantel". When I get truly
> >> >> insane, I'll even mark the hardness of the scraper on there.
> >> >>
> >> >> How satisfying to see that first coat of finish bring life to that
> >> >> mantel. <sigh> I believe I've found my calling....
> >> >>
> >> >> JP
> >> >> *************************************
> >> >> .6m 4deg Rc50
> >> >
> >>
> >
>
Damm Windows :^O
"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "jd" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Opps, sorry if I was wrong also. My news reader showed your posts as being a day ahead. Even the
> >replies are dated before your initial post. My apologies. I read most posts here and your name
has
> >never stood out as a trouble maker. When I read your reply I did take it the wrong way, guess I
need
> >to lighten up. Damm Outlook :)
> >
> >(gotta blame something)
>
> Egads! You're right! The time was right - but not the date. Sorry
> for the confusion.
>
> JP
>
> >"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> On Sun, 22 Feb 2004 16:43:42 -0500, "jd" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >>
> >> >Holy cow a flame war for stating your system clock is wrong? Sorry I don't argue with someone
I
> >> >can't look in the eye. Go kick the cat or something.
> >>
> >> LOL. Jeez man I was just kidding - my clock is right. I thought you
> >> were poking at me for posting so late!
> >>
> >> JP
> >>
> >>
> >> >"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >> >news:[email protected]...
> >> >> "jd" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> >Hay Jay fix your clock!
> >> >>
> >> >> And so the games begin....
> >> >>
> >> >> I'll see your Bic lighter...and rasie you one Zippo and a lecture
> >> >> about copyright morals.
> >> >>
> >> >> JP
> >> >> ****************************
> >> >> Can we pleeeeze have a little controversy here?
> >> >>
> >> >> >"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >> >> >news:[email protected]...
> >> >> >> I just finished an 8/4 cherry mantel for a women that wanted a
> >> >> >> traditional hand planed look, and boy did I spend some time with my
> >> >> >> cabinet scrapers! The boss did the bulk of the actual planing, and
> >> >> >> then cut me loose to clean up the wild grain. Unfortunately we don't
> >> >> >> have a scraper plane. (LV here I come...when I get more $$$ this is
> >> >> >> on its way - http://tinyurl.com/29qz5).
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> As such, I put my existing LV scrapers/jointer/variable burnisher to
> >> >> >> work and knocked down the rough spots with thumb power. They worked
> >> >> >> phenomenally well, and I wore my best "I told you so" look for those
> >> >> >> that had been giving me disparaging looks while I took 15 minutes to
> >> >> >> get them all honed and hooked properly.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> A couple of observations. The first rule of scraping is to tune your
> >> >> >> scrapers. The second rule of scraping is TO TUNE YOUR SCRAPERS!!
> >> >> >> Once you get them sharp, things go much easier. I started by looking
> >> >> >> for areas of obvious tear out, and went at them with a fairly thin
> >> >> >> scraper so I could really localize my efforts without killing myself
> >> >> >> keeping the blade flexed.
> >> >> >> (Note: While the jointer/burnisher from Veritas worked excellently, I
> >> >> >> abandoned their scraper holder for this task, as it didn't allow me
> >> >> >> enough control for really localizing my work - which I wanted to do to
> >> >> >> avoid too much flattening out of the wavy plane marks.)
> >> >> >> Once the deeper divots were removed, I'd take a couple of longer,
> >> >> >> wider passes to sort of even out the crater, so to speak. You've got
> >> >> >> to play with the angle of attack as well as the direction of scraping
> >> >> >> to really get a clean cut, and you can't be timid about it. I try to
> >> >> >> really get the scraper moving and then ease it down into and then out
> >> >> >> of the workpiece. The learning curve was steep for me, thank god!
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> Once I'd gone over all of the obvious dents, dings and gouges, I moved
> >> >> >> along to the noticeably rough areas of raised grain. These I attacked
> >> >> >> with a somewhat thicker scraper, using a few longer, harder passes.
> >> >> >> When using a fresh edge, it cut like a dream, and the was really all
> >> >> >> it took. After that, I took a break.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> Upon return, I took some 220 and lightly went over the whole thing.
> >> >> >> This revealed other, less noticeable rough spots, which I handled the
> >> >> >> same way as above. Again, be careful of the grain. With knot holes I
> >> >> >> generally found the working from the center out was the best, but
> >> >> >> there were exceptions. You'll probably get it *close* to perfect a
> >> >> >> couple of times, only to ruin it with just *one more scrape".
> >> >> >> DAMHIKT.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> After the surface was smoothed, we finished it off with some 220, and
> >> >> >> then oiled it. It looks EXCELLENT! What a beautiful piece of wood.
> >> >> >> I swear if I fondled LOML the same as that piece of cherry I'd get
> >> >> >> breakfast in bed every morning.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> IMPORTANT PART: Scrapers have 8 edges, all of which_can_be used. I
> >> >> >> found that I prefer to slightly round off the corners, as the long
> >> >> >> edges are bowed anyays, and with with the shorter ones (which I really
> >> >> >> don't use) you don't want to snag the corner and create a groove.
> >> >> >> What I do is put a piece of tape on each side, and mark the hook angle
> >> >> >> setting I used on the variable burnisher. I found that if I went over
> >> >> >> 6 or 7 degrees it just grabbed too much, so all were done from 2 to 5
> >> >> >> degrees. I also marked each of the long edges 1 through 4. This
> >> >> >> worked excellently for me, as I didn't have to fumble around trying to
> >> >> >> find a sharp edge each time. I'd just start at 1, and when it got
> >> >> >> dull I'd flip it to 2 and so on. What I'lll probably do is get a
> >> >> >> dozen or so different scrapers, number each edge with an etcher, and
> >> >> >> also mark the hook angle I'm keeping it at. When I really get
> >> >> >> organized, I'll label each thickness as well. Then I can just mark in
> >> >> >> my journal that the "0.6 mil 4 deg hook scraper took out knot marks
> >> >> >> like a champ on Mrs. Havisham's cherry mantel". When I get truly
> >> >> >> insane, I'll even mark the hardness of the scraper on there.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> How satisfying to see that first coat of finish bring life to that
> >> >> >> mantel. <sigh> I believe I've found my calling....
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> JP
> >> >> >> *************************************
> >> >> >> .6m 4deg Rc50
> >> >> >
> >> >>
> >> >
> >>
> >
>
On Sun, 22 Feb 2004 12:54:10 -0500, Jay Pique <[email protected]>
brought forth from the murky depths:
>Yeah, I'm learning. Minwhacks is that RBC that Norm uses, and should
>be avoided like Crapsman power tools.
"RBS", sir, please.
>My boss really dislikes finishing, and I believe would like to see me
>take on the bulk of that work myself. I'm not so keen to be
>pigeonholed like that, but I_would_really like to learn how to do it -
>and do it well. I see people recommend Flexner's book, so I'll
>probably get that one. Any other must-haves?
I much preferred Jeff Jewitt's "Hand Applied Finishes".
Flexner was good for theory, Jewitt for real life.
Dresdner runs 3rd in my book, as did Jewitt's newer
(faux) finishing book.
Of course, Frank Klausz also put out a finishing video.
He uses Waterlox to finish cherry to perfection.
-----------------------------------------
Jack Kevorkian for Congressional physician!
http://www.diversify.com Wondrous Website Design
=================================================
Silvan <[email protected]> wrote:
>Jay Pique wrote:
>
>> How satisfying to see that first coat of finish bring life to that
>> mantel. <sigh> I believe I've found my calling....
>
>Sounds like it's time for some of that Minwhacks all-in-one stain and poly
>stuff.
It was linseed oil and something and something. Kinda gooey like,
with very little color. Wipe it on and immediately wipe it off.
><G, D, & R>
Yeah, I'm learning. Minwhacks is that RBC that Norm uses, and should
be avoided like Crapsman power tools.
My boss really dislikes finishing, and I believe would like to see me
take on the bulk of that work myself. I'm not so keen to be
pigeonholed like that, but I_would_really like to learn how to do it -
and do it well. I see people recommend Flexner's book, so I'll
probably get that one. Any other must-haves?
Thanks.
JP
www.homesteadfinishing.com and www.ttragetcoatings.com and
www.woodfinishingsupplies.com and anything Jeff Jewitt does including
his brand new book. Gonna keep you BUSY!
On Sun, 22 Feb 2004 12:54:10 -0500, Jay Pique <[email protected]>
wrote:
>My boss really dislikes finishing, and I believe would like to see me
>take on the bulk of that work myself. I'm not so keen to be
>pigeonholed like that, but I_would_really like to learn how to do it -
>and do it well. I see people recommend Flexner's book, so I'll
>probably get that one. Any other must-haves?
Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
>On Sun, 22 Feb 2004 12:54:10 -0500, Jay Pique <[email protected]>
>brought forth from the murky depths:
>
>>Yeah, I'm learning. Minwhacks is that RBC that Norm uses, and should
>>be avoided like Crapsman power tools.
>
>"RBS", sir, please.
My humble apologies...is shit by any other name still shit?
>
>>My boss really dislikes finishing, and I believe would like to see me
>>take on the bulk of that work myself. I'm not so keen to be
>>pigeonholed like that, but I_would_really like to learn how to do it -
>>and do it well. I see people recommend Flexner's book, so I'll
>>probably get that one. Any other must-haves?
>
>I much preferred Jeff Jewitt's "Hand Applied Finishes".
>Flexner was good for theory, Jewitt for real life.
>Dresdner runs 3rd in my book, as did Jewitt's newer
>(faux) finishing book.
Really? I heard Jewitt couldn't hold Flexner's jock on his best day.
YMMV.
>Of course, Frank Klausz also put out a finishing video.
>He uses Waterlox to finish cherry to perfection.
Rookie. Anyone that's anyone knows that Minwax over a freshly
beltsanded surface is the only way to go. Again, YMMV.
JP
> -----------------------------------------
> Jack Kevorkian for Congressional physician!
>http://www.diversify.com Wondrous Website Design
>=================================================
On Sun, 22 Feb 2004 01:56:26 -0500, Jay Pique <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I just finished an 8/4 cherry mantel for a women that wanted a
>traditional hand planed look, and boy did I spend some time with my
>cabinet scrapers!
I'd use an adze, or more likely a yari-nomi
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?SID=&ccurrency=2&page=30018&category=1,41504,41541
You go around finishing things by hand with scrapers and the customers
will think they're machine made !
A yari-nomi is one of the most difficult tools to use that I have, but
it does leave a lovely effect on something the size of a mantelpiece.
>Unfortunately we don't
>have a scraper plane. (LV here I come...when I get more $$$ this is
>on its way - http://tinyurl.com/29qz5).
You won't regret it. I have an old Stanley #112, mainly I use a
friend's L-N. Both very useful scraper planes and much better than my
#12.
>After the surface was smoothed, we finished it off with some 220, and
>then oiled it.
Hmmm.... So it was all going fine until you hit it with lots of
gluey rocks on cardboard ? Can't say I understand this approach.
>IMPORTANT PART: Scrapers have 8 edges, all of which_can_be used.
Why though ? Scrapers are cheap, and they bite your fingers. I don't
even like to sharpen both sides.
--
Smert' spamionam
On 23 Feb 2004 16:35:27 -0800, [email protected] (Conan the Librarian)
wrote:
> But what's up with using 220 to "touch up" your scraper work? :-)
>If you're doing it right, the sandpaper isn't likely to improve the
>surface any.
I learned the technique of using 400 grit to find where I wasn't done
scraping. The 400 leaves white powder in tearout and mill marks that
I might not see until later, when I wipe things down with mineral
spirits. I find the 400 helps me to do a better job at not missing
anything. Rarely to I find anything missed with the mineral spirits
if I do the 400 pass. I literally give the surface two swipes with
the sanding block.
Barry
Andy Dingley <[email protected]> writes:
> On Sun, 22 Feb 2004 01:56:26 -0500, Jay Pique <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>I just finished an 8/4 cherry mantel for a women that wanted a
>>traditional hand planed look, and boy did I spend some time with my
>>cabinet scrapers!
>
> I'd use an adze, or more likely a yari-nomi
> http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?SID=&ccurrency=2&page=30018&category=1,41504,41541
>
> You go around finishing things by hand with scrapers and the customers
> will think they're machine made !
Isn't a hand-planed surface smooth, plane and glassy, while a
machine/planed one has ripples from the planer head? At least I try to
get my hand-planed surfaces plane.
>
> A yari-nomi is one of the most difficult tools to use that I have, but
> it does leave a lovely effect on something the size of a mantelpiece.
It can be also nice on smaller objects, but i agree that it takes some
practice. But it does not give a "hand planed" surface, it resembles
rather a well worn old pine board, at least to the touch (if you
manage to overcome the tearout problem near knots...)
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23