Or use a smooth plane. I use a #4 1/2 to take it down flush. Just take
fine shavings.
--
Ross
www.myoldtools.com
"KS" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
> >
> > "Brian" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > Recently I've made a couple of cabinets in the Arts and Crafts style
> > > and have used 3/4" Oak plywood as the field and banded it with 2"
> > > solid oak (biscuit jointed). The reason is primarily that the plywood
> > > is much more stable than solid wood that is edge jointed. Once stained
> > > and varnished it looks quite good. The only time consuming part is
> > > sanding down the banding to exactly the level of the plywood.
> > >
> > >
> > Any trick (besides "being very careful") to avoid damaging the plywood
when
> > you are sanding down the banding? What do you use?
> >
> >
> >
> Make a jig for your router to trim the banding down to the surface of the
> plywood.
> I use one similar to this one
> http://www.alan.net/prgshoptips/cljig.html
>
> or try one like this
> http://www.woodworking.org/WC/GArchive98/7_23mattjig.html
>
In the past, i,ve use 3/4" base(pine) and nailed hardwood flooring to it
(nailed in the grooves) sanding it, and used a poly-finish after i trimmed
it out with oak molding. Looks good n is a solid desk on top of base
cubboards.....
"Dennis Spector" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm trying to decide if I should build an office desk with a 3/4 oak ply
top
> or a solid oak top (30" x 5'). Any experiences or words of wisdom will be
> appreciated...
> Thanks,
> Denny
>
>
That problem will be accentuated by rotary peeled plywood, minimized by
flitch peeled.
"jev" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'd second the choice of solid wood but....If you plan on using the
> desktop for writing I think you may find the open pored nature of oak
> to be small problem(pens/pencils move unevenly over solid oak tending
> to follow grain). This can be overcome with a bit grain filling which
> will make a much better surface.
>
> On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 10:10:51 -0500, Carver33 <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >
> >On Sat, 10 Jan 2004 15:18:30 -0800, "Dennis Spector"
> ><[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> >>I'm trying to decide if I should build an office desk with a 3/4 oak ply
top
> >>or a solid oak top (30" x 5'). Any experiences or words of wisdom will
be
> >>appreciated...
> >>Thanks,
> >>Denny
> >
> >I'd go with solid oak for the top. Oak plywood only has a thin layer
> >of oak over somewhat softer substrate - won't stand up to much abuse
> >such as hard objects being dropped on it. Also, solid surface can be
> >refinished several times if need be.
> >
> >Bill
>
"George Berlinger" <[email protected]> writes:
>In the past, i,ve use 3/4" base(pine) and nailed hardwood flooring to it
>(nailed in the grooves) sanding it, and used a poly-finish after i trimmed
>it out with oak molding. Looks good n is a solid desk on top of base
>cubboards.....
Wouldn't hardwood flooring expand and contract with the seasons unless
you're in the desert? Probably wouldn't be the best thing for a desktop.
I know my hardwood floor has some gaps in it during the winter when
humidity is low.
Brian Elfert
jev <[email protected]> writes:
>I'd second the choice of solid wood but....If you plan on using the
>desktop for writing I think you may find the open pored nature of oak
>to be small problem(pens/pencils move unevenly over solid oak tending
>to follow grain). This can be overcome with a bit grain filling which
>will make a much better surface.
Any real wood desk should have glass or a desk pad for writing on it.
Real wood will tend to dent where it was written on.
Brian Elfert
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>
> "Brian" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Recently I've made a couple of cabinets in the Arts and Crafts style
> > and have used 3/4" Oak plywood as the field and banded it with 2"
> > solid oak (biscuit jointed). The reason is primarily that the plywood
> > is much more stable than solid wood that is edge jointed. Once stained
> > and varnished it looks quite good. The only time consuming part is
> > sanding down the banding to exactly the level of the plywood.
> >
> >
> Any trick (besides "being very careful") to avoid damaging the plywood when
> you are sanding down the banding? What do you use?
>
>
>
Make a jig for your router to trim the banding down to the surface of the
plywood.
I use one similar to this one
http://www.alan.net/prgshoptips/cljig.html
or try one like this
http://www.woodworking.org/WC/GArchive98/7_23mattjig.html
"Brian Elfert" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:400404fa$0$549>
> Wouldn't hardwood flooring expand and contract with the seasons unless
> you're in the desert? Probably wouldn't be the best thing for a desktop.
>
> I know my hardwood floor has some gaps in it during the winter when
> humidity is low.
>
> Brian Elfert
All wood moves. The trick is to fasten it in such a way that the top can
move but will not split. Use clamping dogs into a slot or attach the center
only and let the front and back float. I'm not an expert on this so consult
a good book or better woodworker for details of how to allow for movement.
Ed
On Sat, 10 Jan 2004 15:18:30 -0800, "Dennis Spector"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I'm trying to decide if I should build an office desk with a 3/4 oak ply top
>or a solid oak top (30" x 5'). Any experiences or words of wisdom will be
>appreciated...
>Thanks,
>Denny
I'd go with solid oak for the top. Oak plywood only has a thin layer
of oak over somewhat softer substrate - won't stand up to much abuse
such as hard objects being dropped on it. Also, solid surface can be
refinished several times if need be.
Bill
Recently I've made a couple of cabinets in the Arts and Crafts style
and have used 3/4" Oak plywood as the field and banded it with 2"
solid oak (biscuit jointed). The reason is primarily that the plywood
is much more stable than solid wood that is edge jointed. Once stained
and varnished it looks quite good. The only time consuming part is
sanding down the banding to exactly the level of the plywood.
"George Berlinger" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> In the past, i,ve use 3/4" base(pine) and nailed hardwood flooring to it
> (nailed in the grooves) sanding it, and used a poly-finish after i trimmed
> it out with oak molding. Looks good n is a solid desk on top of base
> cubboards.....
>
> "Dennis Spector" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I'm trying to decide if I should build an office desk with a 3/4 oak ply
> top
> > or a solid oak top (30" x 5'). Any experiences or words of wisdom will be
> > appreciated...
> > Thanks,
> > Denny
> >
> >
I'd second the choice of solid wood but....If you plan on using the
desktop for writing I think you may find the open pored nature of oak
to be small problem(pens/pencils move unevenly over solid oak tending
to follow grain). This can be overcome with a bit grain filling which
will make a much better surface.
On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 10:10:51 -0500, Carver33 <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>On Sat, 10 Jan 2004 15:18:30 -0800, "Dennis Spector"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>I'm trying to decide if I should build an office desk with a 3/4 oak ply top
>>or a solid oak top (30" x 5'). Any experiences or words of wisdom will be
>>appreciated...
>>Thanks,
>>Denny
>
>I'd go with solid oak for the top. Oak plywood only has a thin layer
>of oak over somewhat softer substrate - won't stand up to much abuse
>such as hard objects being dropped on it. Also, solid surface can be
>refinished several times if need be.
>
>Bill
"Brian" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Recently I've made a couple of cabinets in the Arts and Crafts style
> and have used 3/4" Oak plywood as the field and banded it with 2"
> solid oak (biscuit jointed). The reason is primarily that the plywood
> is much more stable than solid wood that is edge jointed. Once stained
> and varnished it looks quite good. The only time consuming part is
> sanding down the banding to exactly the level of the plywood.
>
>
Any trick (besides "being very careful") to avoid damaging the plywood when
you are sanding down the banding? What do you use?