I'm building a bookshelf for my FIL. It's 36" wide with shelves ~10"
deep. The shelf supports also serve as the stretchers between the
uprights or vertical members. Think of an "H" with multiple cross-
bars (6 if it matters, for 6 shelves) on the front and rear sections.
These stretchers are 2" wide by X3/4" thick red oak and are M&T'd
into the verticals. It won't be "library" strength, but an 83 year old
doesn't read that many books, it's mostly to add something personal to
his room at the "assisted living" center. (That move broke SWMBO's
heart, and almost broke mine as well.)
The shelves will be 3/4" (OK, 23/32) Chinaply. The plan is to rabbet
the inside edge of the stretchers 1/4" wide and 1" deep so the edges
of the ply are hidden when it's dropped into the rabbet, they can't
slide off but need no fastening, and there's a 1/4" lip to keep books
from sliding off the front and back of the shelf.
Now, cutting the rabbet. Alternatives are:
Use the jointer, but I think its max rabbet depth is 1/2" so that may
be a no-go. It'll take multiple passes in any case.
Use the router table and multiple passes along the fence with a 1/2"
or 3/4" straight bit buried in the router table fence (big bit for
strength vs using a 1/4" bit). 1" deep will take several passes.
What's a reasonable max cut depth? 1/8", 1/4", 3/8"?
Use the TS with a sacrificial facing on the fence and a 1/4" dado
stack against the sacrificial facing. I suspect I could cut the dado
in 2 passes on the TS, 1 at 3/4" and another at 1". The sacrificial
fence thought is 'cause I'm not comfortable trapping the board between
the regular fence and a 1/4" dado stack, but maybe I'm being a CS.
'Course I could just glue strips along the backs of the stretchers and
forget the rabbet idea entirely, but that ain't real artistic.
Thoughts?
Larry gets the prize. Yep, I wouldn't have thought of doing it any
other way. Two passes on the TS and you're goo dto go.
Do the 1" deep pass cut forts so when you do the 1/4" cut you easily
leave the cut out stock on the table without having the stock rock on
the edge. Use a sacrificial push stick to push both pieces apst the
blade after the final cut.
On Aug 28, 10:08 am, [email protected] (Larry W) wrote:
> If I understand correctly, you are cutting a 1/2" X 1" rabbet along the edge
> of your 2" pieces; I would use a regular blade and cut in 2 passes. Use
> featherboards or guide blocks clamped to the table and to the fence ito
> keep the stock aligned as you make the cut. It will help with
> consistency of the width and depth of the rabbet, though with the
> length being only 36" it should not be too difficult a job.
>
> --
> There is always an easy solution to every human problem -- neat,
> plausible, and wrong." (H L Mencken)
>
> Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
That way saves setiing up the dado stack and will probably result in a
smoother rabbet.
I'm getting an education from the various answers. Thanks.
On Tue, 28 Aug 2007 17:08:07 +0000 (UTC),
[email protected] (Larry W) wrote:
>If I understand correctly, you are cutting a 1/2" X 1" rabbet along the edge
>of your 2" pieces; I would use a regular blade and cut in 2 passes. Use
>featherboards or guide blocks clamped to the table and to the fence ito
>keep the stock aligned as you make the cut. It will help with
>consistency of the width and depth of the rabbet, though with the
>length being only 36" it should not be too difficult a job.
Tom B <[email protected]> wrote:
>'Course I could just glue strips along the backs of the stretchers and
>forget the rabbet idea entirely, but that ain't real artistic.
>
>Thoughts?
What's unartistic about that? I think it's a great idea. Done with the
same wood, it would be nearly invisible, and anyone looking for a glue
line on the under side of the stretchers should be invited to leave.
If you'd prefer to have only a 1/2" wide "lip" at the front of the
drawers, thickness your wood down to 1/2" before adding the glued-on
1/4" thick strip.
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.
Tom B wrote:
> I may take your pointed remark to the garashop and cogitate.
While you are there, cogitate about that lip sticking up in front of
the shelf. Bad idea IMO. Why?
1. Some books are wider than your shelf
2. Lip means books that fit can't be slid off.
3. Can't be slid off = PITA for 83 year old man.
4. Books aren't going to fall off without lip.
5. Lip makes shelf hard to clean
--
dadiOH
____________________________
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If I understand correctly, you are cutting a 1/2" X 1" rabbet along the edge
of your 2" pieces; I would use a regular blade and cut in 2 passes. Use
featherboards or guide blocks clamped to the table and to the fence ito
keep the stock aligned as you make the cut. It will help with
consistency of the width and depth of the rabbet, though with the
length being only 36" it should not be too difficult a job.
--
There is always an easy solution to every human problem -- neat,
plausible, and wrong." (H L Mencken)
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
"Tom B" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm building a bookshelf for my FIL. It's 36" wide with shelves ~10"
> deep. The shelf supports also serve as the stretchers between the
> uprights or vertical members. Think of an "H" with multiple cross-
> bars (6 if it matters, for 6 shelves) on the front and rear sections.
> These stretchers are 2" wide by X3/4" thick red oak and are M&T'd
> into the verticals. It won't be "library" strength, but an 83 year old
> doesn't read that many books, it's mostly to add something personal to
> his room at the "assisted living" center. (That move broke SWMBO's
> heart, and almost broke mine as well.)
>
> The shelves will be 3/4" (OK, 23/32) Chinaply. The plan is to rabbet
> the inside edge of the stretchers 1/4" wide and 1" deep so the edges
> of the ply are hidden when it's dropped into the rabbet, they can't
> slide off but need no fastening, and there's a 1/4" lip to keep books
> from sliding off the front and back of the shelf.
>
> Now, cutting the rabbet. Alternatives are:
>
> Use the jointer, but I think its max rabbet depth is 1/2" so that may
> be a no-go. It'll take multiple passes in any case.
>
> Use the router table and multiple passes along the fence with a 1/2"
> or 3/4" straight bit buried in the router table fence (big bit for
> strength vs using a 1/4" bit). 1" deep will take several passes.
> What's a reasonable max cut depth? 1/8", 1/4", 3/8"?
>
> Use the TS with a sacrificial facing on the fence and a 1/4" dado
> stack against the sacrificial facing. I suspect I could cut the dado
> in 2 passes on the TS, 1 at 3/4" and another at 1". The sacrificial
> fence thought is 'cause I'm not comfortable trapping the board between
> the regular fence and a 1/4" dado stack, but maybe I'm being a CS.
>
> 'Course I could just glue strips along the backs of the stretchers and
> forget the rabbet idea entirely, but that ain't real artistic.
>
> Thoughts?
I was wondering how someone could make a 1 inch deep rabbet on a 3/4 inch
board. Finally, I see that you want a 1/4 inch deep rabbet that is 1 inch
wide.
I can think of a couple of ways:
1. You can do this with a stacked dado set in two passes.
2. You can do this on a router table with a 1 inch diameter bit (perhaps)
in one pass. It would be better to
use two passes (1/8 and then 1/4).
You can also cut such a dado in the table saw in two passes. This method
does require standing the piece on end which is far from safe.
Jim
Alexy:
I can't disagree. In fact, the strip method means I don't have to
notch the shelves to clear the 3/4" uprights. Plus, it doesn't reduce
the load bearing capabilities of the stretchers. I guess I was trying
to avoid appearing to be lazy. Unusual, because, like Heinlein, I
always "beware the lazy man, because he'll find a better way", or
words to that effect.
I may take your pointed remark to the garashop and cogitate. I'd
planned to plane down the stretchers on the front side by a 1/16 or so
(to hide any minor mis-fit with the uprights) and then either
round-over or chamfer the front edges anyway. so why not.
Regards.
Tom
On Mon, 27 Aug 2007 18:02:20 -0400, alexy <[email protected]> wrote:
>Tom B <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>'Course I could just glue strips along the backs of the stretchers and
>>forget the rabbet idea entirely, but that ain't real artistic.
>>
>>Thoughts?
>
>What's unartistic about that? I think it's a great idea. Done with the
>same wood, it would be nearly invisible, and anyone looking for a glue
>line on the under side of the stretchers should be invited to leave.
>If you'd prefer to have only a 1/2" wide "lip" at the front of the
>drawers, thickness your wood down to 1/2" before adding the glued-on
>1/4" thick strip.
Jim:
You're quite correct, the "deep" and "wide" depend on your
orientation. I was thinking in the vertical, being an ex-pilot. Laying
the board on its side makes it easier. A 1/4" deep rabbet in a 2" wide
board is not a big problem. Call it a brain overload (spelled f*rt).
Regards.
On Mon, 27 Aug 2007 21:53:24 GMT, "Jim" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I can think of a couple of ways:
>
>1. You can do this with a stacked dado set in two passes.
>2. You can do this on a router table with a 1 inch diameter bit (perhaps)
>in one pass. It would be better to
>use two passes (1/8 and then 1/4).
>
>You can also cut such a dado in the table saw in two passes. This method
>does require standing the piece on end which is far from safe.
>
>Jim
>
Ouch! You have a point or 2. More thought required. Thanks.
On Tue, 28 Aug 2007 10:08:45 GMT, "dadiOH" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>While you are there, cogitate about that lip sticking up in front of
>the shelf. Bad idea IMO. Why?
>
> 1. Some books are wider than your shelf
> 2. Lip means books that fit can't be slid off.
> 3. Can't be slid off = PITA for 83 year old man.
> 4. Books aren't going to fall off without lip.
> 5. Lip makes shelf hard to clean