In a previous thread I talked about a highboy that I am getting ready
to build.
In that thread I said that I would use a toner to unify the cherry and
to give it a push to its ultimate color.
Well, having spent this evening on various finish samples - I've
changed my mind.
I toned up a couple of test pieces with my usual technique of lacquer
sealer, lacquer with dye, etc.
I did one with a shellac wash coat, to see how things popped.
I did another with BLO.
I gotta tell you - this BLO piece is the titts!
I haven't used this stuff in donkey's years, but it is the warmest
looking chunk of cherry that I've had my eyes on in a long time.
And, I'll tell you what - there is a certain sensuality in applying a
rubbed in finish - ooo-lah-lah!
So, C-less, you should have a good night's sleep - cause it don't look
like no cherry is getting stained on this project.
And, O'Deen - I'm sorry dude, but the "problem" cherry that I was
going to send to you just became my choice for the small carved drawer
faces. I'll try to make it up to you - perhaps with some zebrawood.
Now what I need to do is figure out the finishing schedule that will
include the BLO and the use of this super groovy ultra blonde that I
scored from Jeff's. Gotta try to remember how to finish the finish.
I think I'll look up those Rad threads on "Chatoyance", too.
Thomas J. Watson - WoodDorker
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1 (webpage)
On 22 Mar 2005 14:46:31 -0800, "Odeen" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Best way to finish
>the finish is with a topcoat of poly... four is better.
>
>O'Deen
I'm printing this one out and hanging it on the wall of the shop.
Thomas J. Watson - WoodDorker
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1 (webpage)
Patriarch wrote:
> Whilst you're making samples, see if you can score a little can of Tried &
> True, and see how you like that. It seems a little warmer, and somewhat
> friendlier, than hardware store BLO. C Becksvoort, Shaker furniture
> expert, recommends it highly, and alledgedly uses it on all his cherry.
Tried and True + Cherry is just plain magic. After a year or two, it
becomes unbelievably beautiful. One of the most beautiful combinations
out there, IMO.
PK
"WillR" <[email protected]> wrote in message >
T&T -- Have you tried it on red oak?
Hopefully finishing the project from H*** today and will finish it in
that I think.
I can try a small sample here -- but that does not always tell the tale...
Used the T & T varnish oil and it worked well.
In Thomas Moser's book, he recommends warming the BLO to 130 degrees and
then applying it. He says that when it's warmed it soaks right in, rather
then sitting on the surface for a while.
Steve P.
(Not the Steve P. that's looking for a breast drill)
"Tom Watson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In a previous thread I talked about a highboy that I am getting ready
> to build.
>
> In that thread I said that I would use a toner to unify the cherry and
> to give it a push to its ultimate color.
>
> Well, having spent this evening on various finish samples - I've
> changed my mind.
>
> I toned up a couple of test pieces with my usual technique of lacquer
> sealer, lacquer with dye, etc.
>
> I did one with a shellac wash coat, to see how things popped.
>
> I did another with BLO.
>
> I gotta tell you - this BLO piece is the titts!
>
> I haven't used this stuff in donkey's years, but it is the warmest
> looking chunk of cherry that I've had my eyes on in a long time.
>
> And, I'll tell you what - there is a certain sensuality in applying a
> rubbed in finish - ooo-lah-lah!
>
> So, C-less, you should have a good night's sleep - cause it don't look
> like no cherry is getting stained on this project.
>
> And, O'Deen - I'm sorry dude, but the "problem" cherry that I was
> going to send to you just became my choice for the small carved drawer
> faces. I'll try to make it up to you - perhaps with some zebrawood.
>
> Now what I need to do is figure out the finishing schedule that will
> include the BLO and the use of this super groovy ultra blonde that I
> scored from Jeff's. Gotta try to remember how to finish the finish.
>
> I think I'll look up those Rad threads on "Chatoyance", too.
>
>
>
> Thomas J. Watson - WoodDorker
>
> tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
> http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1 (webpage)
Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
> "WillR" <[email protected]> wrote in message >
>=20
> T&T -- Have you tried it on red oak?
>=20
> Hopefully finishing the project from H*** today and will finish it in
> that I think.
>=20
> I can try a small sample here -- but that does not always tell the tale=
=2E..
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Used the T & T varnish oil and it worked well.=20
>=20
>=20
Thanks as noted below will try it on oak...
--=20
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20
who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw
Patriarch:
Patriarch wrote:
> Tom Watson <[email protected]> wrote in=20
> news:[email protected]:
>=20
>=20
>>In a previous thread I talked about a highboy that I am getting ready
>>to build.
>>
>>In that thread I said that I would use a toner to unify the cherry and
>>to give it a push to its ultimate color.
>>
>>Well, having spent this evening on various finish samples - I've
>>changed my mind.
>>
>=20
> <snip>
>=20
> Whilst you're making samples, see if you can score a little can of Trie=
d &=20
> True, and see how you like that. It seems a little warmer, and somewha=
t=20
> friendlier, than hardware store BLO. C Becksvoort, Shaker furniture=20
> expert, recommends it highly, and alledgedly uses it on all his cherry.=
>=20
> Looks pretty good on the replica clock I made from his (and Benjamin=20
> Young's) plans. (Gotta put the movement in that thing someday soon.)
>=20
> Not everything needs shellac.
>=20
> Patriarch
T&T -- Have you tried it on red oak?
Hopefully finishing the project from H*** today and will finish it in=20
that I think.
I can try a small sample here -- but that does not always tell the tale..=
=2E
--=20
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20
who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw
Tom Watson <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> In a previous thread I talked about a highboy that I am getting ready
> to build.
>
> In that thread I said that I would use a toner to unify the cherry and
> to give it a push to its ultimate color.
>
> Well, having spent this evening on various finish samples - I've
> changed my mind.
>
<snip>
Whilst you're making samples, see if you can score a little can of Tried &
True, and see how you like that. It seems a little warmer, and somewhat
friendlier, than hardware store BLO. C Becksvoort, Shaker furniture
expert, recommends it highly, and alledgedly uses it on all his cherry.
Looks pretty good on the replica clock I made from his (and Benjamin
Young's) plans. (Gotta put the movement in that thing someday soon.)
Not everything needs shellac.
Patriarch
WillR <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Patriarch:
>
> T&T -- Have you tried it on red oak?
>
> Hopefully finishing the project from H*** today and will finish it in
> that I think.
>
> I can try a small sample here -- but that does not always tell the
> tale...
>
Works just fine. What you want to do next will determine which product
you use, as will the project you're doing.
I've used the Original, which has beeswax in the formula, where the
lower gloss contributes to a softer-looking, and likely somewhat less
durable, finish. The Varnish Oil gives a satin sheen, and seems, at
least, to offer a bit more durability.
If the project expects to see harder use, Waterlox becomes an option.
And for the (first) quilt rack I made for my wife, I used shellac over
the varnish oil, for the sake of the quilt.
Regarding T&T: Warm up the shop. Warm up the work piece. Warm the oil
safely. This is not a product to be used cold. And be prepared to wipe
the surface all day, to deal with the ooze-out that red oak always
brings to the party. The nice thing about this oil is that the
fragrance is pleasant. When I bring projects inside to cure, my wife
always notices, but doesn't complain. And they will take days to cure,
this time of year.
Good luck with the project. Sorry it has turned on you.
Patriarch
In article <[email protected]>,
Patriarch <[email protected]> wrote:
> Whilst you're making samples, see if you can score a little can of Tried &
> True, and see how you like that. It seems a little warmer, and somewhat
> friendlier, than hardware store BLO.
And while you're at it, try some Flood's Penetrol...straight from the
can. (Triple-boiled, very pure) It might be a little too 'techie' for
the hairy fore-arms and sloped foreheads, but damn, is it durable.
On Fri, 18 Mar 2005 20:57:27 -0500, the inscrutable Tom Watson
<[email protected]> spake:
>In a previous thread I talked about a highboy that I am getting ready
>to build.
>
>In that thread I said that I would use a toner to unify the cherry and
>to give it a push to its ultimate color.
Blasphemer!
>Well, having spent this evening on various finish samples - I've
>changed my mind.
>
>I toned up a couple of test pieces with my usual technique of lacquer
>sealer, lacquer with dye, etc.
Ewwwwwwwwwwww.
>I did one with a shellac wash coat, to see how things popped.
>
>I did another with BLO.
>
>I gotta tell you - this BLO piece is the titts!
That's "tits", sir.
>I haven't used this stuff in donkey's years, but it is the warmest
>looking chunk of cherry that I've had my eyes on in a long time.
>
>And, I'll tell you what - there is a certain sensuality in applying a
>rubbed in finish - ooo-lah-lah!
"'BOUT TIME!" he exclaimed.
>So, C-less, you should have a good night's sleep - cause it don't look
>like no cherry is getting stained on this project.
Tendjewberrymud, suh. Now why didn't you just use Waterlox on it?
It's a combo of BLO, Tung oil, and varnish. (The perfect combo.)
>And, O'Deen - I'm sorry dude, but the "problem" cherry that I was
>going to send to you just became my choice for the small carved drawer
>faces. I'll try to make it up to you - perhaps with some zebrawood.
Something familiar (like half-pieces) I trust? <ww,nn,snm>
>Now what I need to do is figure out the finishing schedule that will
Now ya gone and done it, ya YB. "Finishing Schedule" my arse. Just put
a finish on it and be done with it! No "sanding sealer", no stain, no
dye, no glaze, no poly.
Just put -A- finish on the damned thing, will ya?
>include the BLO and the use of this super groovy ultra blonde that I
>scored from Jeff's. Gotta try to remember how to finish the finish.
>
>I think I'll look up those Rad threads on "Chatoyance", too.
As long as you don't wax poetic on it we'll be OK.
--
People will occasionally stumble over the truth, but
most of the time they'll pick themselves up and carry on.
--anon
On Wed, 23 Mar 2005 06:36:55 -0500, the inscrutable Tom Watson
<[email protected]> spake:
>On 22 Mar 2005 14:46:31 -0800, "Odeen" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Best way to finish
>>the finish is with a topcoat of poly... four is better.
>>
>>O'Deen
>
>
>I'm printing this one out and hanging it on the wall of the shop.
Nobody'll EVER believe it.
========================================================
Was that an African + http://www.diversify.com
or European Swallow? + Gourmet Web Applications
========================================================
On Fri, 18 Mar 2005 20:57:27 -0500, Tom Watson <[email protected]> wrote:
>In a previous thread I talked about a highboy that I am getting ready
>to build.
>
... snip
>
>I did one with a shellac wash coat, to see how things popped.
>
>I did another with BLO.
>
>I gotta tell you - this BLO piece is the titts!
>
>I haven't used this stuff in donkey's years, but it is the warmest
>looking chunk of cherry that I've had my eyes on in a long time.
>
>And, I'll tell you what - there is a certain sensuality in applying a
>rubbed in finish - ooo-lah-lah!
>
>So, C-less, you should have a good night's sleep - cause it don't look
>like no cherry is getting stained on this project.
>
>And, O'Deen - I'm sorry dude, but the "problem" cherry that I was
>going to send to you just became my choice for the small carved drawer
>faces. I'll try to make it up to you - perhaps with some zebrawood.
>
Oh my. The Klown Hamma is going to come out for that one.
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
The absence of accidents does not mean the presence of safety
Army General Richard Cody
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Patriarch wrote:
> WillR <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:=20
>=20
>=20
>>Patriarch:
>>
>>T&T -- Have you tried it on red oak?
>>
>>Hopefully finishing the project from H*** today and will finish it in=20
>>that I think.
>>
>>I can try a small sample here -- but that does not always tell the
>>tale...=20
>>
>=20
>=20
> Works just fine. What you want to do next will determine which product=
=20
> you use, as will the project you're doing.
>=20
> I've used the Original, which has beeswax in the formula, where the=20
> lower gloss contributes to a softer-looking, and likely somewhat less=20
> durable, finish. The Varnish Oil gives a satin sheen, and seems, at=20
> least, to offer a bit more durability.
>=20
> If the project expects to see harder use, Waterlox becomes an option.
>=20
> And for the (first) quilt rack I made for my wife, I used shellac over =
> the varnish oil, for the sake of the quilt.
>=20
> Regarding T&T: Warm up the shop. Warm up the work piece. Warm the oi=
l=20
> safely. This is not a product to be used cold. And be prepared to wipe=
=20
> the surface all day, to deal with the ooze-out that red oak always=20
> brings to the party. The nice thing about this oil is that the=20
> fragrance is pleasant. When I bring projects inside to cure, my wife=20
> always notices, but doesn't complain. And they will take days to cure,=
=20
> this time of year.
>=20
> Good luck with the project. Sorry it has turned on you.
>=20
> Patriarch
Patriarch:
Thanks for the info -- especially about all the bleed-out - I will watch =
it carefully over today (or tomorrow).
Maybe I will even wait till tomorrow -- supposed to be warmer. Then I=20
can open the shop while I apply and then let it cure for a few days.=20
Will check weather first -- spring is here only in theory in Southern=20
Ontario.
Warming the T&T can in the sink with some hot water maybe... that should =
be safe.
The project looks great now -- it was just a test of faith I think.=20
LOL (It looks great despite all my efforts LOL)
Never liked oak as much as maple or walnut before. Now I think I like it =
-- despite the difficulty of turning some parts. Find myself stroking=20
the legs -- probably a bad habit that was picked up elsewhere...
--=20
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20
who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw