turning old silverware into kitchen pull handles

I'd suggest using stainless or aluminum spacers and attaching them with
epoxy or a two part polyurethane like RayCrete.

Go to http://www.mcmaster.com/and search on "spacer".

http://www.raycrete.com/


The difficulty with soldering is that with knives the blade is usually
steel (silver soldering won't work) and the handle is usually hollow.
Unless you have a lot of experience silver soldering and a small
jeweler's torch you will likely melt through the handle.

Other pieces are probably solid but the melting points of the flatware
and the solder will need to be known. A jeweler's torch would still be
a good idea.

RB

terry wrote:
> My wife is building a new kitchen, is totally underwhelmed by the
> selection of kitchen cabinet pull handles and overwhelmed by the
> pricing.
>
> She has dozens of silverware that is better made and nicer, and will
> never be used. She wants to silver solder two barrels (with internal
> threads) to each piece and use them. I like the idea, but am clueless
> to start.
>
> Questions, info/comments to [email protected]
> 1. what is that "internally threaded barrel called?"
> 2. where can I get it?
> 3. is silver soldering the correct method
> 4. is a specific type of solder the best?
> 5. any dimensions I need to be aware of?
> 6. anything I am too clueless to ask?
>
> thanks,
> all answers to [email protected]

Murray Peterson wrote:
>
> [email protected] (terry) wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> > 1. what is that "internally threaded barrel called?"
>
> 1/2 of a binding screw (also called a Chicago bolt).
>
> > 2. where can I get it?
>
> You can find them at any good hardware store, even Home Depot. Make sure
> you don't get aluminum -- you will have serious problems soldering it.
>
> > 3. is silver soldering the correct method
>
> Yes
>
> > 4. is a specific type of solder the best?
>
> One with a low melting point, or you will have problems with accidentally
> melting your silverware. Ask at a jewelry supply house for "easy 45" or
> "soft" solder. Don't forget to buy some soldering flux.

Also you need the right torch. MAPP works fine. Propane doesn't put
out enough heat to overcome heat conduction away from the joint.

Buy a small jar of Sparex (tm) pickle. Nothing else will as safely
remove the hardened flux residue (aka "flux glass") once the joint
cools.

||> all answers to [email protected]
||
||Now why would I email you any answers? If it was important enough to post
||in a newsgroup, then there probably other people interested in the answers.

Hear, hear! Email request is selfishness
Texas Parts Guy

[email protected] (terry) wrote in message >
> Questions, info/comments to [email protected]
> 1. what is that "internally threaded barrel called?"
> 2. where can I get it?
> 3. is silver soldering the correct method
> 4. is a specific type of solder the best?
> 5. any dimensions I need to be aware of?
> 6. anything I am too clueless to ask?
>
> thanks,
> all answers to [email protected]

You can get brass internally-threaded "standoffs"
from just about any electronics or surplus supplier. They are listed
in the Mouser catalog, for one.

You can use silver solder, or use the lower-temp "silver-bearing"
solder (like StayBrite) you can find in the hardware store. Real
silver solder is a brazing technique, and will require acid pickling
and polishing afterwards to clean up the metal. The lower temp stuff
requires much less cleanup afterwards, and will be strong enough for
your use.

Is the silverware you intend to use silver-plated? Or maybe stainless
steel? If plated, you probably need to replate after soldering.
Stainless can be a bit difficult to solder to, check with the local
welding store for correct solder and fluxes.

Plating: you'll want to plate the standoffs in any case, and maybe
replate the whole piece once assembled and polished. You could use a
silver electroplating outfit, but there is another approach that works
ok for this kind of thing -- use an "instant plate" solution like
those made by Jax. Their silver dip-plating solution works very well.
Just remember the plated surface reflects the prep -- polish well
first, then clean spotlessly, then plate.

Sounds like a fun project.

Regards,

Bob

terry wrote:

> She has dozens of silverware that is better made and nicer, and will
> never be used. She wants to silver solder two barrels (with internal
> threads) to each piece and use them. I like the idea, but am clueless
> to start.

If the pieces you want to use are sterling or silver plate on brass or
steel, you could machine and internally thread the standoffs. I would
suggest brass since it is easy to machine and easy to plate. Silver
solder the barrels to the silverware, clean thoroughly to remove _all_
flux residues and silver plate the pieces.

If you don't have plating gear, check out "brush plating" at
http://www.caswellplating.com/nsindex.htm
Brush plating is the most efficient technique for small stuff and/or
infrequent use. I still have perfectly useable solutions I made up in
the 60's.

Ted

terry wrote:
> My wife is building a new kitchen, is totally underwhelmed by the
> selection of kitchen cabinet pull handles and overwhelmed by the
> pricing.
>
> She has dozens of silverware that is better made and nicer, and will
> never be used. She wants to silver solder two barrels (with internal
> threads) to each piece and use them. I like the idea, but am clueless
> to start.
>
> Questions, info/comments to [email protected]
> 1. what is that "internally threaded barrel called?"
> 2. where can I get it?
> 3. is silver soldering the correct method
> 4. is a specific type of solder the best?
> 5. any dimensions I need to be aware of?
> 6. anything I am too clueless to ask?
>
> thanks,
> all answers to [email protected]


In the electronics industry they are called "threaded standoffs". Shapes
are usual;ly hexagonal or round with lenghts from about 1/8" up to
several inches. Threads typically range from 4-32 through 1/4-20. Look
at digikey (digikey.com?) or other electronic supplies for bulk pricing.
Material varies from plastic (nylon), aluminum, zinc plated brass, and
plain brass. Solder will not stick to aluminum but should work fine with
the brass and plated brass.



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terry writes:

> She wants to silver solder two barrels (with internal
> threads) to each piece and use them.

I'm doing something similar at a beachside condo apt remodel, but with
hunks of coral scavenged from the beach, and cut on a wet tile saw.

Rather than try to bond female hardware onto them, I plan to just drill a
thru-hole and have a brass screw head showing outside, with a nut inside
the door. Plastic spacers to get them to stand off from the front of the
cabinet door.

Would also be cool to cast your own knobs out of old silverware melted down
in a coffee-can foundry. Then you could just drill and tap them.

[email protected] (terry) wrote in
news:[email protected]:


> 1. what is that "internally threaded barrel called?"

1/2 of a binding screw (also called a Chicago bolt).

> 2. where can I get it?

You can find them at any good hardware store, even Home Depot. Make sure
you don't get aluminum -- you will have serious problems soldering it.

> 3. is silver soldering the correct method

Yes

> 4. is a specific type of solder the best?

One with a low melting point, or you will have problems with accidentally
melting your silverware. Ask at a jewelry supply house for "easy 45" or
"soft" solder. Don't forget to buy some soldering flux.

> 5. any dimensions I need to be aware of?

Dimensions of what? Buy a binding screw of the right length for your
cupboard door thickness.

> 6. anything I am too clueless to ask?

I have no idea.

> all answers to [email protected]

Now why would I email you any answers? If it was important enough to post
in a newsgroup, then there probably other people interested in the answers.

terry wrote:

> My wife is building a new kitchen, is totally underwhelmed by the
> selection of kitchen cabinet pull handles and overwhelmed by the
> pricing.
>
> She has dozens of silverware that is better made and nicer, and will
> never be used. She wants to silver solder two barrels (with internal
> threads) to each piece and use them. I like the idea, but am clueless
> to start.
>
> Questions, info/comments to [email protected]
> 1. what is that "internally threaded barrel called?"

It's called a "stand-off"

> 2. where can I get it?

Check your local hardware stores.

> 3. is silver soldering the correct method

It should work - although you might want to compare the melting
temperature of the silverware alloy to the melting point of the
solder (-:

> 4. is a specific type of solder the best?

Probably; but this probably isn't the best ng to get
authoritative answers for metalworking. We don't usually braze or
solder wood...

> 5. any dimensions I need to be aware of?
> 6. anything I am too clueless to ask?
>
> thanks,
> all answers to [email protected]

Probably not. If everyone has to download and read your question,
then everyone is entitled to read the replies and, when
appropriate, offer corrections. This process helps to ensure that
you get higher quality information than you might get by e-mail.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto, Iowa USA

You might want to consider finding some brass drawer pulls and cutting off
the threaded portion. I say brass because it's easy to solder. The threads
are typically 8-32. There are many choices of silver solder, or solder that
has silver content. In jewelry they often refer to soft, medium, and hard,
each with ascending melting temperatures. I have seen silver solder sold at
a local hardware store, such as "Ace". Not typically at Home Depot or
Menards. J&L Industrial supply carries it, as does MSD.




"terry" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My wife is building a new kitchen, is totally underwhelmed by the
> selection of kitchen cabinet pull handles and overwhelmed by the
> pricing.
>
> She has dozens of silverware that is better made and nicer, and will
> never be used. She wants to silver solder two barrels (with internal
> threads) to each piece and use them. I like the idea, but am clueless
> to start.
>
> Questions, info/comments to [email protected]
> 1. what is that "internally threaded barrel called?"
> 2. where can I get it?
> 3. is silver soldering the correct method
> 4. is a specific type of solder the best?
> 5. any dimensions I need to be aware of?
> 6. anything I am too clueless to ask?
>
> thanks,
> all answers to [email protected]

terry wrote:

> My wife is building a new kitchen, is totally underwhelmed by the
> selection of kitchen cabinet pull handles and overwhelmed by the
> pricing.
>
> She has dozens of silverware that is better made and nicer, and will
> never be used. She wants to silver solder two barrels (with internal
> threads) to each piece and use them. I like the idea, but am clueless
> to start.
>
> Questions, info/comments to [email protected]
> 1. what is that "internally threaded barrel called?"

A number of things, including "internally threaded barrel". You might
look for brass spacers (threaded). Such spacers are commonly used in
the electronics industry, but they're usually aluminum. You'll want
brass, and to have yours silver plated (and be ready for the plating to
wear off on the insides where your hands wear on them).

> 2. where can I get it?

Check Small Parts, www.smallparts.com. I don't know if they have them,
but it's a place to work. If you're determined you may want to have
something made, but you may spend more $$ than you would on door pulls.
You may also do well getting brass rod, then drilling and tapping the
ends for screws. This would be difficult, but with a steady hand you
should be able to do this with a hacksaw, a vice and a hand drill.

> 3. is silver soldering the correct method

Soldering should work very well. If done correctly on real silverware a
soldered joint should last until your grandchildren are old. If it's
just silver plated flatware you'll solder onto the plating, and your
joint will only be as strong as the adhesion between the plate and the
parent material.

> 4. is a specific type of solder the best?

You want something that will tend to acquire the same patina as your
silverware. There are specific solders used by jewelers, you should
probably check with a jewelery supply house (they may have your barrels,
for that matter).

> 5. any dimensions I need to be aware of?

For strength you probably want to use 8-32 screws, and 3/8 inch barrels
-- but the barrel size is an aesthetic choice as well, and you can get
an 8-32 thread inside a 1/4 inch barrel.

> 6. anything I am too clueless to ask?

Undoubtedly, but I'm too clueless to know what they are.

>
> thanks,
> all answers to [email protected]

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

thanks for the suggestion, unfortunately, the boss wants to not see
the attaching hardware, so I neet to bond the stand-off to the
Underside
of the silverware.

ANY ideas out there?
thanks!
terry
Richard J Kinch <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> terry writes:
>
> > She wants to silver solder two barrels (with internal
> > threads) to each piece and use them.
>
> I'm doing something similar at a beachside condo apt remodel, but with
> hunks of coral scavenged from the beach, and cut on a wet tile saw.
>
> Rather than try to bond female hardware onto them, I plan to just drill a
> thru-hole and have a brass screw head showing outside, with a nut inside
> the door. Plastic spacers to get them to stand off from the front of the
> cabinet door.
>
> Would also be cool to cast your own knobs out of old silverware melted down
> in a coffee-can foundry. Then you could just drill and tap them.

"terry" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> thanks for the suggestion, unfortunately, the boss wants to not see
> the attaching hardware, so I neet to bond the stand-off to the
> Underside of the silverware.
>
> ANY ideas out there?
> thanks!
> terry

In an electronics parts supplier, look for "threaded standoffs" You can
find them in a variety of materials with no threads or almost any
combination of male and/or female threads in a variety of sizes and lengths.

Norm

My wife is building a new kitchen, is totally underwhelmed by the
selection of kitchen cabinet pull handles and overwhelmed by the
pricing.

She has dozens of silverware that is better made and nicer, and will
never be used. She wants to silver solder two barrels (with internal
threads) to each piece and use them. I like the idea, but am clueless
to start.

Questions, info/comments to [email protected]
1. what is that "internally threaded barrel called?"
2. where can I get it?
3. is silver soldering the correct method
4. is a specific type of solder the best?
5. any dimensions I need to be aware of?
6. anything I am too clueless to ask?

thanks,
all answers to [email protected]