What is the main difference between a shaper and a router mounted in a
table?
Are shapers basically just more powerful routers?
After I install my HW flooring I will need approx 100-120 ft of base
moulding.
The wife also want to put up some crown moulding.
Sounds like an oppertunity again for a new tool (bigger router?) to me.
Would a 3HP router (PC 7518) be usable for making crown moulding and the
like?
ThankX,
Ron
See the http://www.patwarner.com/router_or_shaper.html link for comparison.
*****************************************************************************
> What is the main difference between a shaper and a router mounted in a
> table?
>
> Are shapers basically just more powerful routers?
>
> After I install my HW flooring I will need approx 100-120 ft of base
> moulding.
> The wife also want to put up some crown moulding.
>
> Sounds like an oppertunity again for a new tool (bigger router?) to me.
>
> Would a 3HP router (PC 7518) be usable for making crown moulding and the
> like?
>
> ThankX,
> Ron
Not to mention the shaper cutter design allows you better access to the face
of your cutters for cleaning after use and touching them up with a diamond
paddle before.
"James D. Kountz" <jkountz@(remove this)citlink.net> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Well said Chris. I might add also that rail and stile cutters for the
shaper
> do not have to cost over $200. I have used some of the cheaper cutters in
> the $60-100 range with fine results. One reversible set I have cost me
about
> $49 five years ago and I actually just dug them out yesterday to make a
door
> and they still cut great on ash. I made a cherry kitchen set with them
when
> I bought them and a couple of other doors for various projects. Check MLCS
> for both shaper cutters and router bits. They can save you big money and
> trust me they are just as good as anything else you pay more for.
AM or FM, just like radio maintenance?
Another Miracle....
"Chris Melanson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:dPp0c.35023$A12.2716@edtnps84...
There is a
> rule that I was taught during my apprenticeship 20 odd years ago and I
feel
> is one of the cardinal rules:
>
> START SQUARE END SQUARE
>
> If not use lots of "FM"
>
> FM=F**kin Magic.
In article <[email protected]>, "Wilson Lamb" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Funny how this keeps coming up.
>The router will follow the shape of a twisted or warped board, but a shaper
>will not. If your boards are not flat, the shaper will produce BAD results.
>Other than that, it's far superior for heavy cuts.
>Wilson
Funny how you keep bringing up the same misguided, wrongheaded nonsense every
time this topic comes up. You still haven't figured out that the first step in
_any_ project is proper selection and preparation of the stock.
A router _mounted_in_a_table_ won't follow a twisted or warped board any
better than a shaper will, and is every bit as dangerous.
What are you doing, using twisted, warped lumber, anyway? If your boards are
not flat and straight, *nothing* is going to produce *good* results.
Go buy yourself a jointer, Wilson, and stop posting this foolishness.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
For a copy of my TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter,
send email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
The main difference between the two is that a shaper produces far more
torque than a router of the same HP. A shaper will not wind down as much as
a router when making large cuts. If you plan on doing any down milling of
profile absolutely do not use any type of router as you run the risk of your
bit being pulled out of the cullet. Each tool has its own strength and draw
backs. I guess it all depends on the particular job of which one is best
suited for.
"Ron" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:LMS%b.419440$xy6.2380228@attbi_s02...
> What is the main difference between a shaper and a router mounted in a
> table?
>
> Are shapers basically just more powerful routers?
>
> After I install my HW flooring I will need approx 100-120 ft of base
> moulding.
> The wife also want to put up some crown moulding.
>
> Sounds like an oppertunity again for a new tool (bigger router?) to me.
>
> Would a 3HP router (PC 7518) be usable for making crown moulding and the
> like?
>
> ThankX,
> Ron
>
>
You *could* get the job done with a large router, the bits are available
however a shaper (one of suitable size) is really the machine for the
job.Cutters are more expensive for a shaper generally. Add a decent stock
feeder to either machine to make it even better. A shaper is just more
muscle and usually a steadier heavier machine.
Jim
"Ron" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:LMS%b.419440$xy6.2380228@attbi_s02...
> What is the main difference between a shaper and a router mounted in a
> table?
>
> Are shapers basically just more powerful routers?
>
> After I install my HW flooring I will need approx 100-120 ft of base
> moulding.
> The wife also want to put up some crown moulding.
>
> Sounds like an oppertunity again for a new tool (bigger router?) to me.
>
> Would a 3HP router (PC 7518) be usable for making crown moulding and the
> like?
>
> ThankX,
> Ron
>
>
Funny how this keeps coming up.
The router will follow the shape of a twisted or warped board, but a shaper
will not. If your boards are not flat, the shaper will produce BAD results.
Other than that, it's far superior for heavy cuts.
Wilson
"James D. Kountz" <jkountz@(remove this)citlink.net> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Well said Chris. I might add also that rail and stile cutters for the
shaper
> do not have to cost over $200. I have used some of the cheaper cutters in
> the $60-100 range with fine results. One reversible set I have cost me
about
> $49 five years ago and I actually just dug them out yesterday to make a
door
> and they still cut great on ash. I made a cherry kitchen set with them
when
> I bought them and a couple of other doors for various projects. Check MLCS
> for both shaper cutters and router bits. They can save you big money and
> trust me they are just as good as anything else you pay more for.
>
> Jim
>
>
> "Chris Melanson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:B980c.108398$Hy3.8826@edtnps89...
> > The main difference between the two is that a shaper produces far
more
> > torque than a router of the same HP. A shaper will not wind down as much
> as
> > a router when making large cuts. If you plan on doing any down milling
of
> > profile absolutely do not use any type of router as you run the risk of
> your
> > bit being pulled out of the cullet. Each tool has its own strength and
> draw
> > backs. I guess it all depends on the particular job of which one is best
> > suited for.
> > "Ron" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >
>
>
If you want a machine to make mostly moulding, look at the thickness planers
that will take some moulding knives. Grizzly and Jet both sell them,
Grizzlies 1037Z sells for $725. Most crown moulding starts at 3 5/8 wide and
that is a really big bite for holding stock vertically and running on a
shaper or router. I'm pretty confident that only small furniture size crowns
can be made with router bits. Base moulding is a different story. The router
is perfect for that. I've always used the cost of cutters as a decision
maker for considering a router or a shaper. A door set for the shaper will
cost over $200 for the shaper, less than $100 for the router.
Rich
"Ron" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:LMS%b.419440$xy6.2380228@attbi_s02...
> What is the main difference between a shaper and a router mounted in a
> table?
>
> Are shapers basically just more powerful routers?
>
> After I install my HW flooring I will need approx 100-120 ft of base
> moulding.
> The wife also want to put up some crown moulding.
>
> Sounds like an oppertunity again for a new tool (bigger router?) to me.
>
> Would a 3HP router (PC 7518) be usable for making crown moulding and the
> like?
>
> ThankX,
> Ron
>
>
One basic formula for HP is as follows HP = 2pi NT /33000.
2pi/33000 is a constant .....
thus HP =KNT where K = constant , N = RPM, and T = Torque.
Say the average shaper runs at say 7000 RPM and the average router at
20000RPM then the shaper is going to have nearly 3 times the torque of the
equivalent HP router...mjh
"Chris Melanson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:B980c.108398$Hy3.8826@edtnps89...
> The main difference between the two is that a shaper produces far more
> torque than a router of the same HP. A shaper will not wind down as much
as
> a router when making large cuts. If you plan on doing any down milling of
> profile absolutely do not use any type of router as you run the risk of
your
> bit being pulled out of the cullet. Each tool has its own strength and
draw
> backs. I guess it all depends on the particular job of which one is best
> suited for.
> "Ron" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:LMS%b.419440$xy6.2380228@attbi_s02...
> > What is the main difference between a shaper and a router mounted in a
> > table?
> >
> > Are shapers basically just more powerful routers?
> >
> > After I install my HW flooring I will need approx 100-120 ft of base
> > moulding.
> > The wife also want to put up some crown moulding.
> >
> > Sounds like an oppertunity again for a new tool (bigger router?) to me.
> >
> > Would a 3HP router (PC 7518) be usable for making crown moulding and the
> > like?
> >
> > ThankX,
> > Ron
> >
> >
>
>
In article <dPp0c.35023$A12.2716@edtnps84>, Chris Melanson wrote:
> Using warped or twisted lumber is just not an option if you are looking
> for any type of accuracy or consistency when working with wood. There is a
> rule that I was taught during my apprenticeship 20 odd years ago and I feel
> is one of the cardinal rules:
>
> START SQUARE END SQUARE
>
> If not use lots of "FM"
>
> FM=F**kin Magic.
>
> And if you believe in magic then I guess you can use warped or twisted
> lumber and expect good results.
Is this the place to mention "George Nakashima"? 8-)
Mark & Juanita wrote:
> Funny how you keep bringing this up. There is NO difference between
> using a router in a router table and a shaper on stock. Say again, zero,
> zip, zilch, nada difference between the effects of a router in a router
> table and a shaper for the condition you describe. The OP was comparing
> the advantages/disadvantages of a TABLE-MOUNTED router and a shaper.
> Using the router in a hand-held configuration was not an element of the
> question or discussion.
You can also remove the shaper fence and use a cutter/collar/start pin
combination to shape an edge of any non-psychotic shape.
j4
Using warped or twisted lumber is just not an option if you are looking
for any type of accuracy or consistency when working with wood. There is a
rule that I was taught during my apprenticeship 20 odd years ago and I feel
is one of the cardinal rules:
START SQUARE END SQUARE
If not use lots of "FM"
FM=F**kin Magic.
And if you believe in magic then I guess you can use warped or twisted
lumber and expect good results.
Thanks:
Chris
"Wilson Lamb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Funny how this keeps coming up.
> The router will follow the shape of a twisted or warped board, but a
shaper
> will not. If your boards are not flat, the shaper will produce BAD
results.
> Other than that, it's far superior for heavy cuts.
> Wilson
> "James D. Kountz" <jkountz@(remove this)citlink.net> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Well said Chris. I might add also that rail and stile cutters for the
> shaper
> > do not have to cost over $200. I have used some of the cheaper cutters
in
> > the $60-100 range with fine results. One reversible set I have cost me
> about
> > $49 five years ago and I actually just dug them out yesterday to make a
> door
> > and they still cut great on ash. I made a cherry kitchen set with them
> when
> > I bought them and a couple of other doors for various projects. Check
MLCS
> > for both shaper cutters and router bits. They can save you big money and
> > trust me they are just as good as anything else you pay more for.
> >
> > Jim
> >
> >
> > "Chris Melanson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:B980c.108398$Hy3.8826@edtnps89...
> > > The main difference between the two is that a shaper produces far
> more
> > > torque than a router of the same HP. A shaper will not wind down as
much
> > as
> > > a router when making large cuts. If you plan on doing any down milling
> of
> > > profile absolutely do not use any type of router as you run the risk
of
> > your
> > > bit being pulled out of the cullet. Each tool has its own strength and
> > draw
> > > backs. I guess it all depends on the particular job of which one is
best
> > > suited for.
> > > "Ron" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> Funny how this keeps coming up.
> The router will follow the shape of a twisted or warped board, but a shaper
> will not. If your boards are not flat, the shaper will produce BAD results.
> Other than that, it's far superior for heavy cuts.
> Wilson
Funny how you keep bringing this up. There is NO difference between
using a router in a router table and a shaper on stock. Say again, zero,
zip, zilch, nada difference between the effects of a router in a router
table and a shaper for the condition you describe. The OP was comparing
the advantages/disadvantages of a TABLE-MOUNTED router and a shaper.
Using the router in a hand-held configuration was not an element of the
question or discussion.
> "James D. Kountz" <jkountz@(remove this)citlink.net> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Well said Chris. I might add also that rail and stile cutters for the
> shaper
> > do not have to cost over $200. I have used some of the cheaper cutters in
> > the $60-100 range with fine results. One reversible set I have cost me
> about
> > $49 five years ago and I actually just dug them out yesterday to make a
> door
> > and they still cut great on ash. I made a cherry kitchen set with them
> when
> > I bought them and a couple of other doors for various projects. Check MLCS
> > for both shaper cutters and router bits. They can save you big money and
> > trust me they are just as good as anything else you pay more for.
> >
> > Jim
> >
> >
> > "Chris Melanson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:B980c.108398$Hy3.8826@edtnps89...
> > > The main difference between the two is that a shaper produces far
> more
> > > torque than a router of the same HP. A shaper will not wind down as much
> > as
> > > a router when making large cuts. If you plan on doing any down milling
> of
> > > profile absolutely do not use any type of router as you run the risk of
> > your
> > > bit being pulled out of the cullet. Each tool has its own strength and
> > draw
> > > backs. I guess it all depends on the particular job of which one is best
> > > suited for.
> > > "Ron" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>
Well said Chris. I might add also that rail and stile cutters for the shaper
do not have to cost over $200. I have used some of the cheaper cutters in
the $60-100 range with fine results. One reversible set I have cost me about
$49 five years ago and I actually just dug them out yesterday to make a door
and they still cut great on ash. I made a cherry kitchen set with them when
I bought them and a couple of other doors for various projects. Check MLCS
for both shaper cutters and router bits. They can save you big money and
trust me they are just as good as anything else you pay more for.
Jim
"Chris Melanson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:B980c.108398$Hy3.8826@edtnps89...
> The main difference between the two is that a shaper produces far more
> torque than a router of the same HP. A shaper will not wind down as much
as
> a router when making large cuts. If you plan on doing any down milling of
> profile absolutely do not use any type of router as you run the risk of
your
> bit being pulled out of the cullet. Each tool has its own strength and
draw
> backs. I guess it all depends on the particular job of which one is best
> suited for.
> "Ron" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>