I commented to someone in tech support once about Naval Jelly and
thought he was going to croak! His tirade made me thingk it was the
cause of the dark discoloration.
On 8 Dec 2003 13:57:43 -0800, [email protected] (Bob) wrote:
>I used Naval Jelly to get the rust off, then put WD40 on it to
>protect it. Now my saw is very dark and ugly.
On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 00:19:38 GMT, Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> wrote:
>or peanut butter.
What's wrong with peanut butter ? (the smooth grade of course)
It's an excellent emollient for many unfathomable greases and gunks
that don't shift with more obvious detergents. Just try it on price
sticker residue sometime.
>> Start by not using naval jelly.
A rather more sensible comment.
Naval jelly is phosphoric acid (only gellified, and sold with a huge
markup). It converts rust to a stable black iron phosphate, but this
is still physically thicker than the original steel. So you end up
with a "restored" looking saw, but the sides of it are now coated in
your extra-durable high-friction coating. Looks great, but they're
damned hard work to use.
Much better is to use electrolysis. This removes the rust layer and
returns the saw to its original dimensions (or thinner, if steel has
been lost). You get a much smoother surface this way, and the saw may
end up usable again.
--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
ROFL!!!
Dave, you killed me! You watered that eye, yes you did. Man, that's classic.
:-)
"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> or peanut butter.
>
> or beer.
>
>
> dave
>
> Unisaw A100 wrote:
>
> > Start by not using naval jelly.
> >
> > UA100
>
"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:s%cBb.65466$_M.325496@attbi_s54...
> You need to people for this. One to run the HAND saw and one to polish.
>
> "P©WÉ®T©©LMAN ²ºº3" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > > Bob
> >
> > Rolled up fine sandpaper, carefully & lightly run it up & down the blade
> > faces while running,
Did not realise it was a hand saw in question, but the process works great
on rotary blades & I still have three fingers left to prove it.
I did get a great finish on a hand saw using a 100g Makita multi disc
once.....mind you it was not to restore a valuable saw only to remove the
rust from one stored in a very damp shed. I would say the light even swirl
effect actually made the blade look great & it only took about 30 seconds
per side & looked brand new.
--
© Jon Down ®
http://www.stores.ebay.com/jdpowertoolcanada
Thanks for all the replies. In response to the poster who suggested I
put Johnson's Paste wax on my tools. I have Trewax paste wax, it says
on the can, buffable with caurnuba. Is this similar enough? I have
seen alot of recipes online containing alot of beeswax and paraffin
too.
Bob
Phisherman <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> On 8 Dec 2003 13:57:43 -0800, [email protected] (Bob) wrote:
>
> >Hello:
> >
> >Quick question please. I bought a couple of Disston saws at a flea
> >market. I used Naval Jelly to get the rust off, then put WD40 on it to
> >protect it. Now my saw is very dark and ugly. How do I go about
> >polishing the saw so it is nice and shiny steel again?
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >Bob
>
> A drop or two of kerosene and lots of elbow grease. This will remove
> light rust and prevent further rusting. WD40 is short-lived.
oh, the T-9 is Boeshield.
dave
Bob wrote:
> Hello:
>
> Quick question please. I bought a couple of Disston saws at a flea
> market. I used Naval Jelly to get the rust off, then put WD40 on it to
> protect it. Now my saw is very dark and ugly. How do I go about
> polishing the saw so it is nice and shiny steel again?
>
> Thanks
>
> Bob
[email protected] wrote:
> I commented to someone in tech support once about Naval Jelly and
> thought he was going to croak! His tirade made me thingk it was the
> cause of the dark discoloration.
As I posted before, I wasn't that hot on spending as much on the used
tilt top table saw and joiner but when I over heard two people
discussing using naval jelly to clean them, I wasn't going to let them
have these old pieces of equipment.
--
Mark
N.E. Ohio
Never argue with a fool, a bystander can't tell you apart. (S. Clemens,
A.K.A. Mark Twain)
When in doubt hit the throttle. It may not help but it sure ends the
suspense. (Gaz, r.moto)
WD40 won't protect it. It's more of a solvent than a rust inhibitor.
It isn't as good as all the things they'd like you to believe it's for.
Green Scotchbrite pad dipped in mineral spirits or kerosene or spritz on
some of that WD40 you like. Just don't light any matches! You can make
it even prettier by finishing it off with Meguair's metal polish and
lots of elbow grease, but I'd go with something like 1,200 and 2,000
grit first. also with a lubricant to keep the paper from clogging.
To protect it use SC Johnson's paste wax. No car wax, due to silicone.
Get some T-9 corrosion preventative and use that in lieu of WD40 to
prevent rust on tools.
dave
Bob wrote:
> Hello:
>
> Quick question please. I bought a couple of Disston saws at a flea
> market. I used Naval Jelly to get the rust off, then put WD40 on it to
> protect it. Now my saw is very dark and ugly. How do I go about
> polishing the saw so it is nice and shiny steel again?
>
> Thanks
>
> Bob
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> Rolled up fine sandpaper, carefully & lightly run it up & down the blade
> faces while running, just avoid the blade tips.
>
But he's talking about a hand saw :-).
I've had good luck with something called Blue Magic Liquid Metal Polish.
Don't use abrasive material, it'll ruin any antique value the saws may
have.
And next time don't use naval jelly. Use the vinegar and salt method or
even better use electrolysis (do a Google on cleaning hand saws).
--
Where ARE those Iraqi WMDs?
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> Thanks for all the replies. In response to the poster who suggested I
> put Johnson's Paste wax on my tools. I have Trewax paste wax, it says
> on the can, buffable with caurnuba. Is this similar enough? I have
> seen alot of recipes online containing alot of beeswax and paraffin
> too.
>
I've always used Trewax. I tried Johnson's. Nothing wrong with it, but
the Trewax seems to me to last longer.
--
Where ARE those Iraqi WMDs?
On 8 Dec 2003 13:57:43 -0800, [email protected] (Bob) wrote:
>Hello:
>
>Quick question please. I bought a couple of Disston saws at a flea
>market. I used Naval Jelly to get the rust off, then put WD40 on it to
>protect it. Now my saw is very dark and ugly. How do I go about
>polishing the saw so it is nice and shiny steel again?
>
>Thanks
>
>Bob
A drop or two of kerosene and lots of elbow grease. This will remove
light rust and prevent further rusting. WD40 is short-lived.
"Bob" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello:
>
> Quick question please. I bought a couple of Disston saws at a flea
> market. I used Naval Jelly to get the rust off, then put WD40 on it to
> protect it. Now my saw is very dark and ugly. How do I go about
> polishing the saw so it is nice and shiny steel again?
>
> Thanks
>
> Bob
Rolled up fine sandpaper, carefully & lightly run it up & down the blade
faces while running, just avoid the blade tips. Cleans the blade up a treat
on table saws, mitre saws & circular saws, quite safe if you watch what you
are doing. Afterwards a light spray of Topcote table & tool surface sealant
really helps.
--
© Jon Down ®
http://www.stores.ebay.com/jdpowertoolcanada
Use a gray scotchbrite pad and some Camelia oil.
The oil can be had from Japanese woodworking supply places.
www.japanwoodworker.com
"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> WD40 won't protect it. It's more of a solvent than a rust inhibitor.
> It isn't as good as all the things they'd like you to believe it's for.
>
> Green Scotchbrite pad dipped in mineral spirits or kerosene or spritz on
> some of that WD40 you like. Just don't light any matches! You can make
> it even prettier by finishing it off with Meguair's metal polish and
> lots of elbow grease, but I'd go with something like 1,200 and 2,000
> grit first. also with a lubricant to keep the paper from clogging.
>
> To protect it use SC Johnson's paste wax. No car wax, due to silicone.
> Get some T-9 corrosion preventative and use that in lieu of WD40 to
> prevent rust on tools.
>
> dave
>
> Bob wrote:
>
> > Hello:
> >
> > Quick question please. I bought a couple of Disston saws at a flea
> > market. I used Naval Jelly to get the rust off, then put WD40 on it to
> > protect it. Now my saw is very dark and ugly. How do I go about
> > polishing the saw so it is nice and shiny steel again?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Bob
>
You need to people for this. One to run the HAND saw and one to polish.
"P©WÉ®T©©LMAN ²ºº3" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> > Bob
>
> Rolled up fine sandpaper, carefully & lightly run it up & down the blade
> faces while running,
if there's no silicone in it, it's safe to use, Bob. Silicones, even in
minute quanitities can mess you up when it's time to apply finishes.
dave
Bob wrote:
> Thanks for all the replies. In response to the poster who suggested I
> put Johnson's Paste wax on my tools. I have Trewax paste wax, it says
> on the can, buffable with caurnuba. Is this similar enough? I have
> seen alot of recipes online containing alot of beeswax and paraffin
> too.
>
> Bob
>
> Phisherman <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>
>>On 8 Dec 2003 13:57:43 -0800, [email protected] (Bob) wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Hello:
>>>
>>>Quick question please. I bought a couple of Disston saws at a flea
>>>market. I used Naval Jelly to get the rust off, then put WD40 on it to
>>>protect it. Now my saw is very dark and ugly. How do I go about
>>>polishing the saw so it is nice and shiny steel again?
>>>
>>>Thanks
>>>
>>>Bob
>>
>>A drop or two of kerosene and lots of elbow grease. This will remove
>>light rust and prevent further rusting. WD40 is short-lived.