Hello,
(I've never used a 890-series before... this may end up being a dumb
question.)
How does the above-table height adjustment knob work? Would it work
with the Veritas router table system? I assume you need to pass the
adjustment rod through the access hole in the top -- is there a minimum
size of access hole you need in order to use the adjustment rod?
Thanks!
- Daniel
I've had the 890 router for several months and have it permanently mounted in a
table. The problem with this router is that it has to be removed from the fixed
base about every one hour its run because saw dust builds up between the router
and the base and the adjustment becomes very difficultif not impossibel to turn.
It's a very irritating problem. Other than that, the router works great.
Neal
"Robert Galloway" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My ancient Freud started smelling bad and then tripped the breaker a
> couple of weeks ago. In the middle of the project, SWMBO and I headed
> for Rockler. She didn't object to an 890 and the plate that goes with
> it. Love it. So far, So good. I adjusted the Freud from under the
> table for the past ten years and this is better. No slam on the Freud.
> For the money, it was fine and I hope to get it repaired.
>
> rhg
>
> Michael Daly wrote:
>
> > On 30-May-2004, Daniel <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> >
> >>How does the above-table height adjustment knob work? Would it work
> >>with the Veritas router table system? I assume you need to pass the
> >>adjustment rod through the access hole in the top -- is there a minimum
> >>size of access hole you need in order to use the adjustment rod?
> >
> >
> > There are two holes required, both about 7/16". One allows you to unlock
> > the cam that holds the router body and the second to make the adjustment.
> > You don't need the PC tool; a screwdriver-like socket wrench of the
> > appropriate size will work and may be cheaper.
> >
> > Looking at the LV web site, it seems that the holes will have to be drilled
> > in the metal. There's a template that comes with the router and the holes
> > are 2.25 inches from the center of the router collet (that's to the inside
> > edge of the hole, not the center of the hole). Measure that distance on
your
> > table and make sure it doesn't interfere with the mounting of the table
> > inserts. LV says they're 3 5/8" diameter (1.81" radius) so you should
> > have about 2.25-1.81 = .44" to play with.
> >
> > Mike
>
My ancient Freud started smelling bad and then tripped the breaker a
couple of weeks ago. In the middle of the project, SWMBO and I headed
for Rockler. She didn't object to an 890 and the plate that goes with
it. Love it. So far, So good. I adjusted the Freud from under the
table for the past ten years and this is better. No slam on the Freud.
For the money, it was fine and I hope to get it repaired.
rhg
Michael Daly wrote:
> On 30-May-2004, Daniel <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>How does the above-table height adjustment knob work? Would it work
>>with the Veritas router table system? I assume you need to pass the
>>adjustment rod through the access hole in the top -- is there a minimum
>>size of access hole you need in order to use the adjustment rod?
>
>
> There are two holes required, both about 7/16". One allows you to unlock
> the cam that holds the router body and the second to make the adjustment.
> You don't need the PC tool; a screwdriver-like socket wrench of the
> appropriate size will work and may be cheaper.
>
> Looking at the LV web site, it seems that the holes will have to be drilled
> in the metal. There's a template that comes with the router and the holes
> are 2.25 inches from the center of the router collet (that's to the inside
> edge of the hole, not the center of the hole). Measure that distance on your
> table and make sure it doesn't interfere with the mounting of the table
> inserts. LV says they're 3 5/8" diameter (1.81" radius) so you should
> have about 2.25-1.81 = .44" to play with.
>
> Mike
My ancient Freud started smelling bad and then tripped the breaker a
couple of weeks ago. In the middle of the project, SWMBO and I headed
for Rockler. She didn't object to an 890 and the plate that goes with
it. Love it. So far, So good. I adjusted the Freud from under the
table for the past ten years and this is better. No slam on the Freud.
For the money, it was fine and I hope to get it repaired.
rhg
Michael Daly wrote:
> On 30-May-2004, Daniel <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>How does the above-table height adjustment knob work? Would it work
>>with the Veritas router table system? I assume you need to pass the
>>adjustment rod through the access hole in the top -- is there a minimum
>>size of access hole you need in order to use the adjustment rod?
>
>
> There are two holes required, both about 7/16". One allows you to unlock
> the cam that holds the router body and the second to make the adjustment.
> You don't need the PC tool; a screwdriver-like socket wrench of the
> appropriate size will work and may be cheaper.
>
> Looking at the LV web site, it seems that the holes will have to be drilled
> in the metal. There's a template that comes with the router and the holes
> are 2.25 inches from the center of the router collet (that's to the inside
> edge of the hole, not the center of the hole). Measure that distance on your
> table and make sure it doesn't interfere with the mounting of the table
> inserts. LV says they're 3 5/8" diameter (1.81" radius) so you should
> have about 2.25-1.81 = .44" to play with.
>
> Mike
On 30-May-2004, Daniel <[email protected]> wrote:
> How does the above-table height adjustment knob work? Would it work
> with the Veritas router table system? I assume you need to pass the
> adjustment rod through the access hole in the top -- is there a minimum
> size of access hole you need in order to use the adjustment rod?
There are two holes required, both about 7/16". One allows you to unlock
the cam that holds the router body and the second to make the adjustment.
You don't need the PC tool; a screwdriver-like socket wrench of the
appropriate size will work and may be cheaper.
Looking at the LV web site, it seems that the holes will have to be drilled
in the metal. There's a template that comes with the router and the holes
are 2.25 inches from the center of the router collet (that's to the inside
edge of the hole, not the center of the hole). Measure that distance on your
table and make sure it doesn't interfere with the mounting of the table
inserts. LV says they're 3 5/8" diameter (1.81" radius) so you should
have about 2.25-1.81 = .44" to play with.
Mike
Michael Daly wrote:
> On 30-May-2004, Daniel <[email protected]> wrote:
>>How does the above-table height adjustment knob work? Would it work
>>with the Veritas router table system? I assume you need to pass the
>>adjustment rod through the access hole in the top -- is there a minimum
>>size of access hole you need in order to use the adjustment rod?
>
> There are two holes required, both about 7/16". One allows you to unlock
> the cam that holds the router body and the second to make the adjustment.
> You don't need the PC tool; a screwdriver-like socket wrench of the
> appropriate size will work and may be cheaper.
>
> Looking at the LV web site, it seems that the holes will have to be drilled
> in the metal. There's a template that comes with the router and the holes
Has anyone attempted this? Any recommendations you wish to share?
Thanks again.
> are 2.25 inches from the center of the router collet (that's to the inside
> edge of the hole, not the center of the hole). Measure that distance on your
> table and make sure it doesn't interfere with the mounting of the table
> inserts. LV says they're 3 5/8" diameter (1.81" radius) so you should
> have about 2.25-1.81 = .44" to play with.
>
> Mike