Hi there,
I applied some "iron-on" Cedan maple veneer to some baltic birch
cabinet doors. Unfortunately, when I spayed the doors with some
water-based urethane ("Varathane") I noticed 3, 1 inch sized blisters
on the doors. What can I do to fix this? I don't suppose I can take the
iron to them again with the new urethane?
Thanks
Marc
Marc wrote:
> Hi there,
>
> I applied some "iron-on" Cedan maple veneer to some baltic birch
> cabinet doors. Unfortunately, when I spayed the doors with some
> water-based urethane ("Varathane") I noticed 3, 1 inch sized blisters
> on the doors. What can I do to fix this? I don't suppose I can take the
> iron to them again with the new urethane?
>
> Thanks
>
> Marc
>
I've never tried it, but this seems like it should work. 'Borrowed' from
<http://www.diynet.com/diy/ww_other/article/0,2049,DIY_14443_2559170,00.html>
"Occasionally, bubbles or "blisters" will form in a veneer in an area where
there is an insufficient amount of glue in that particular spot on the
substrate. To repair a blister, drill two small holes -- each about
1/32-inch (figure F).
Use a syringe to squeeze yellow glue into the blister until it pops out of
the other pinhole (figure G). Add wax paper, a caul and clamp to add
pressure on the blister and flatten it as the glue dries. In a few hours,
the blistered veneer will be perfectly flat."
-John in NH
I don't know if you've got an inconspicuous spot for experimenting. Tom
suggested a slit or pinhole. Make the pinhole with a 30 ga needle,
inject a little of Rockler's thin cyano (or equivalent) put a piece of
teflon over the bubble and clamp. If done with care and no visible
squeeze out, you might dodge the need for any refinishing. The Teflon
is just a precaution in case there is some squeeze out. Ideally, you
can limit the amount of glue so there is no squeeze out.
rhg
tom wrote:
> I'm thinking you might have to do just that. You may also need to
> provide an escape for the air you've trapped under the veneer. A tiny
> pinhole or slit (along the grain) at an edge of the pocket, and roll
> out to the edge.Then sand lightlyand re-spray. HTH. Tom
>
On Mon, 07 Nov 2005 19:22:38 GMT, John Girouard <[email protected]>
wrote:
>To repair a blister, drill two small holes -- each about 1/32-inch (figure F).
Don't drill holes - they'll be visible afterwards. An enormous scalpel
slit will be invisible afterwards, so long as you cut along the grain.