Folks -
I am building 3 Victorian style wooden screen doors and was wondering about
the MT joints for putting everything together.... How deep do those mortises
need to be? My plunge router will only give me about 1.5 inches, and I
guess I can flip the stiles over and plunge through for a mortise that will
go all the way through, but thought I'd ask for some feedback. A screen
door gets alot of use and I want it to be sturdy. I am using VGDF....
Thanks in advance!
John
Steve -
The stiles are actually 3 1/2; the bottom rail is 10" wide and the top rail
is also 3 1/2 - there are two intermediate rails that are 2" with 3 1/2"
tall turned spindles between them, roughly halfway up the door.
I'll plunge as best I can and drill and chisel out the remainder... I can't
justify a hollow chisel mortiser (yet) but have 4 mission style pieces in
the pipeline that may well tip the scale over center.
I have an 1868 Victorian in Lakeport, CA... and over the years have
discovered that the quickest way to have a nice Victorian home and a small
fortune is to start with a large fortune...
John
"Stephen M" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "js" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Well, my house is Victorian, and all the doors inside are original. The
> > mortises go all the way thru. I would say that is probably the strongest
> > you'd get.
>
> Ditto. 1860's vintage.. all pinned, through mortises.
>
> 3" stiles? That seems a bit light to me. If you start with routed
mortises,
> finishing up with a chisel will be pretty easy using the routing as a
giude
> if you need "extra reach"
>
> -Steve
>
>
Well, my house is Victorian, and all the doors inside are original. The
mortises go all the way thru. I would say that is probably the strongest
you'd get.
"John Moorhead" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Folks -
>
> I am building 3 Victorian style wooden screen doors and was wondering
about
> the MT joints for putting everything together.... How deep do those
mortises
> need to be? My plunge router will only give me about 1.5 inches, and I
> guess I can flip the stiles over and plunge through for a mortise that
will
> go all the way through, but thought I'd ask for some feedback. A screen
> door gets alot of use and I want it to be sturdy. I am using VGDF....
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> John
>
>
You can unbolt and turn the head around then elevate it as far above the
work as you need. I use a piece of 6x6 that I trued up and then clamp to my
bench.
Jim
"Stephen M" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have the benchtop delta, and the "distance under the chisel" is limitted
> to 4". I suppose that's reasonable for a $250 machine, but I have have
> needed more on occaision. I like it for cabinet doors, but it's not really
> enough machine to handle full-sized interior doors.
>
"js" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Well, my house is Victorian, and all the doors inside are original. The
> mortises go all the way thru. I would say that is probably the strongest
> you'd get.
Ditto. 1860's vintage.. all pinned, through mortises.
3" stiles? That seems a bit light to me. If you start with routed mortises,
finishing up with a chisel will be pretty easy using the routing as a giude
if you need "extra reach"
-Steve
>
> I'll plunge as best I can and drill and chisel out the remainder... I
can't
> justify a hollow chisel mortiser (yet) but have 4 mission style pieces in
> the pipeline that may well tip the scale over center.
I have the benchtop delta, and the "distance under the chisel" is limitted
to 4". I suppose that's reasonable for a $250 machine, but I have have
needed more on occaision. I like it for cabinet doors, but it's not really
enough machine to handle full-sized interior doors.
> I have an 1868 Victorian in Lakeport, CA... and over the years have
> discovered that the quickest way to have a nice Victorian home and a small
> fortune is to start with a large fortune...
I know wha'cha mean.