Just finished a bandsaw fence -- rails are oak with heavy duty T-track to
which a T-square cross bracket is clamped. The bracket can be angled to
compensate for blade drift or set perpendicular to the rails. The bracket
holds different fence configurations -- three at the moment -- rip fence,
resaw fence, and a curved edge fence for making parallel curved cuts. Most
of the hardware and the UHMW plastic piece was purchased at a recent
woodworker's show.
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/bandsaw_rails.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/t_square.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/rip_fence.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/resaw_fence.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/curved_edge_fence.jpg
--
Ken Vaughn
Visit My Workshop: http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/
Very nice. I've bookmarked the pages reference for when I finally get my
bandsaw.
Thanks for posting.
"Ken Vaughn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Just finished a bandsaw fence -- rails are oak with heavy duty T-track to
> which a T-square cross bracket is clamped. The bracket can be angled to
> compensate for blade drift or set perpendicular to the rails. The bracket
> holds different fence configurations -- three at the moment -- rip fence,
> resaw fence, and a curved edge fence for making parallel curved cuts.
Most
> of the hardware and the UHMW plastic piece was purchased at a recent
> woodworker's show.
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/bandsaw_rails.jpg
> http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/t_square.jpg
> http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/rip_fence.jpg
> http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/resaw_fence.jpg
> http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/curved_edge_fence.jpg
>
> --
> Ken Vaughn
> Visit My Workshop: http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/
>
>
>
Hi Ken,
great looking fence, look like it goes on the short list :-) One thing
in your description confuses me, you have gone to extreme lengths to
insure that the t-track does not separate from the rails but there is
very little "up" force put on the fence if the rails are flush with the
table. Am I missing something? I have a t-track in my router table and
it sits 1/32 low in the table and I have never had any problem with the
track lifting.
BRuce
Ken Vaughn wrote:
> I have received some personal emails requesting information and measurements
> for the bandsaw fence I posted on "rec.woodworking". The following is a
> composite reply which I will send to those individuals and also post to the
> "rec" for those who may be interested -- that way the information will be in
> the archives.
>
> Plans? -- sorry but I didn't draw any -- its a pretty simple jig -- adjust
> the size and shape for your bandsaw -- mine is a Jet, which is similar to
> the Delta 14"
>
> Rails? -- I used some well dried oak that I had around -- any stable
> hardwood should be fine -- maple would work well. Mine are 1 1/2" by 1 1/2"
> by 23" long. I cut the dado slot for the T-track pretty tight, and put a
> few dabs of J.B.Weld metal epoxy on the sides of the T-track before pressing
> it into the slot.
> Screws through the bottom of the T-track of course. I also drilled pilot
> holes from one side of each rail and put four #6 screws into that side such
> that only the points of the screws cross-pinned the T-track (just to be
> safe). I mounted my rails flush with the surface of the table -- I
> considered dropping them down about 1/4" but decided to flush mount which
> effectively increases the size of the table. On my bandsaw I required 6mm
> bolts to fit the table's pre-drilled mounting holes.
>
> T-square cross bracket? -- 3/4" Baltic Birch, 3 1/2" by 20 1/4". I drilled
> the hole for the front knob oversize, and made the hole for the rear knob a
> slot to allow for setting the cross bracket at an angle when a blade
> exhibits drift. The front member which bears against the rail is 12" long,
> but this isn't critical. My fixture knobs use a 3/8" diameter bolt, again
> not critical. I considered fine sandpaper between the two T-square members,
> but don't think I will need it. A 3/8" lock bolt and washers joins the two
> members.
>
> Fence members ? -- 3/4" Baltic Birch 15" to 16" long depending on need for
> clearance for the cross bracket knobs. The rip fence is 2 1/4" high and was
> made from some hard maple I had on hand, the resaw fence from 3/4" by 6" by
> 16" UHMW plastic supported by 1 1/2" by 1 1/2" aluminum angle. The curved
> fence member was made from walnut -- any hardwood would do. Fixture knobs
> use a 5/16" bolt, but that is not critical
>
ok, I reread your post and then figured you had them made before
deciding where to mount. Another case of "just in time" engineering. I
have the Jet also so it should not take any time to put one of these
together. Delivered my current project today so I should have time in
the next 3 weeks to get some of the shop upgrades done.
Let me (us) know how the blade works out and which one it is. I have a
lot of small logs that I would like to turn into turnings also.
BRuce
Ken Vaughn wrote:
> <BRuce> wrote in message news:1070455474.882406@sj-nntpcache-3...
>
>>Hi Ken,
>>
>>great looking fence, look like it goes on the short list :-) One thing
>>in your description confuses me, you have gone to extreme lengths to
>>insure that the t-track does not separate from the rails but there is
>>very little "up" force put on the fence if the rails are flush with the
>>table. Am I missing something? I have a t-track in my router table and
>>it sits 1/32 low in the table and I have never had any problem with the
>>track lifting.
>>
>>BRuce
>
>
> You are correct in that there should not be much lifting force with the
> rails mounted flush with the table. When I started to make the rails, I was
> thinking of dropping them down below the edge of the table, and was
> concerned about the lifting force. I've been told that I tend to
> over-engineer.
>
> One of the reasons that I chose to flush mount the rails is that I plan to
> make a simple sled for slicing small log sections and tree branches in
> preparation for making turning blanks for my lathe. The rails add an extra
> 3 inches to the front to back table footprint (several inches left to right)
> and should help with stability. I have an aggressive cut thicker blade on
> order from Suffolk Machinery for this purpose.
>
> Ken
>
>
"Ken Vaughn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Just finished a bandsaw fence -- rails are oak with heavy duty T-track to
> which a T-square cross bracket is clamped. The bracket can be angled to
> compensate for blade drift or set perpendicular to the rails.
Nice fence, but the shop is a fake. No one has a shop that is THAT clean.
Looks like a system that can be easily expanded for specialty jigs if need
be. Well thought out.
Ed
[email protected]
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
"Ken Vaughn" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Just finished a bandsaw fence -- rails are oak with heavy duty T-track to
> which a T-square cross bracket is clamped. The bracket can be angled to
> compensate for blade drift or set perpendicular to the rails. The bracket
> holds different fence configurations -- three at the moment -- rip fence,
> resaw fence, and a curved edge fence for making parallel curved cuts. Most
> of the hardware and the UHMW plastic piece was purchased at a recent
> woodworker's show.
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/bandsaw_rails.jpg
> http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/t_square.jpg
> http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/rip_fence.jpg
> http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/resaw_fence.jpg
> http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/curved_edge_fence.jpg
Nice work Ken. I think, I'll do the same too.
Al
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> Just finished a bandsaw fence --
[snip]
Thanks for posting this. I've been pondering whether to buy a fence or
build one, and these photos have convinced me to build one, pronto.
CharlesJ
--
========================================================================
Charles Jones | Works at HP, | email: [email protected]
Hewlett-Packard | doesn't speak | ICQ: 29610755
Loveland, Colorado | for HP | AIM: LovelandCharles
USA | |Jabber: [email protected]
I have received some personal emails requesting information and measurements
for the bandsaw fence I posted on "rec.woodworking". The following is a
composite reply which I will send to those individuals and also post to the
"rec" for those who may be interested -- that way the information will be in
the archives.
Plans? -- sorry but I didn't draw any -- its a pretty simple jig -- adjust
the size and shape for your bandsaw -- mine is a Jet, which is similar to
the Delta 14"
Rails? -- I used some well dried oak that I had around -- any stable
hardwood should be fine -- maple would work well. Mine are 1 1/2" by 1 1/2"
by 23" long. I cut the dado slot for the T-track pretty tight, and put a
few dabs of J.B.Weld metal epoxy on the sides of the T-track before pressing
it into the slot.
Screws through the bottom of the T-track of course. I also drilled pilot
holes from one side of each rail and put four #6 screws into that side such
that only the points of the screws cross-pinned the T-track (just to be
safe). I mounted my rails flush with the surface of the table -- I
considered dropping them down about 1/4" but decided to flush mount which
effectively increases the size of the table. On my bandsaw I required 6mm
bolts to fit the table's pre-drilled mounting holes.
T-square cross bracket? -- 3/4" Baltic Birch, 3 1/2" by 20 1/4". I drilled
the hole for the front knob oversize, and made the hole for the rear knob a
slot to allow for setting the cross bracket at an angle when a blade
exhibits drift. The front member which bears against the rail is 12" long,
but this isn't critical. My fixture knobs use a 3/8" diameter bolt, again
not critical. I considered fine sandpaper between the two T-square members,
but don't think I will need it. A 3/8" lock bolt and washers joins the two
members.
Fence members ? -- 3/4" Baltic Birch 15" to 16" long depending on need for
clearance for the cross bracket knobs. The rip fence is 2 1/4" high and was
made from some hard maple I had on hand, the resaw fence from 3/4" by 6" by
16" UHMW plastic supported by 1 1/2" by 1 1/2" aluminum angle. The curved
fence member was made from walnut -- any hardwood would do. Fixture knobs
use a 5/16" bolt, but that is not critical
--
Ken Vaughn
Visit My Workshop: http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/
"Ken Vaughn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Just finished a bandsaw fence
(snip)
Well Ken, how does it feel to be a "legend" in your own
time ???
Ken Vaughn wrote:
> I have received some personal emails requesting information and measurements
> for the bandsaw fence I posted on "rec.woodworking". The following is a
> composite reply which I will send to those individuals and also post to the
> "rec" for those who may be interested -- that way the information will be in
> the archives.
>
>
You are really putting the rest of us to shame...
More great ideas from a great shop.
Ken Vaughn wrote:
> Just finished a bandsaw fence -- rails are oak with heavy duty T-track to
> which a T-square cross bracket is clamped. The bracket can be angled to
> compensate for blade drift or set perpendicular to the rails. The bracket
> holds different fence configurations -- three at the moment -- rip fence,
> resaw fence, and a curved edge fence for making parallel curved cuts. Most
> of the hardware and the UHMW plastic piece was purchased at a recent
> woodworker's show.
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/bandsaw_rails.jpg
> http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/t_square.jpg
> http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/rip_fence.jpg
> http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/resaw_fence.jpg
> http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/curved_edge_fence.jpg
>
"Pat Barber" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Well Ken, how does it feel to be a "legend" in your own
> time ???
Hi Pat,
At least you didn't say " ... legend in your own mind" <grin>
Jigs seem to be of universal interest to woodworkers. My ISP provides
statistics on personal websites (Urchin product) and every month the most
visited page by a factor of 2 is my page on shop made jigs. Actually, I
added some other new jigs recently, but we will leave that as an exercise
for the reader.
Regards, Ken
<BRuce> wrote in message news:1070455474.882406@sj-nntpcache-3...
> Hi Ken,
>
> great looking fence, look like it goes on the short list :-) One thing
> in your description confuses me, you have gone to extreme lengths to
> insure that the t-track does not separate from the rails but there is
> very little "up" force put on the fence if the rails are flush with the
> table. Am I missing something? I have a t-track in my router table and
> it sits 1/32 low in the table and I have never had any problem with the
> track lifting.
>
> BRuce
You are correct in that there should not be much lifting force with the
rails mounted flush with the table. When I started to make the rails, I was
thinking of dropping them down below the edge of the table, and was
concerned about the lifting force. I've been told that I tend to
over-engineer.
One of the reasons that I chose to flush mount the rails is that I plan to
make a simple sled for slicing small log sections and tree branches in
preparation for making turning blanks for my lathe. The rails add an extra
3 inches to the front to back table footprint (several inches left to right)
and should help with stability. I have an aggressive cut thicker blade on
order from Suffolk Machinery for this purpose.
Ken