GM

G Mulcaster

15/07/2008 3:46 PM

Finish for birch - outdoor use?

Hi folks,

I'm making a luggage rack for a motorcycle trailer out of birch. I've
done some experimenting with stains: the wood seems to absorb
unevenly, despite using Minwax PreStain. Therefore, a clear finish
seems appropriate.

Would prefer a finish not subject to peeling/blistering etc. (Oil?).

What type of outdoor finish would you recommned?

Gary


This topic has 11 replies

b

in reply to G Mulcaster on 15/07/2008 3:46 PM

15/07/2008 1:27 PM

On Jul 15, 8:46 am, G Mulcaster <[email protected]> wrote:
> Hi folks,
>
> I'm making a luggage rack for a motorcycle trailer out of birch.


birch isn't the best choice for 2 reasons. it's pretty heavy and it's
not very stable. you'd be better off with redwood or cedar.

oil for the finish, maintained regularly.

Sb

"SonomaProducts.com"

in reply to G Mulcaster on 15/07/2008 3:46 PM

15/07/2008 10:45 AM

Yes, an appropriate oil is the best bet for sun and water exposed
materials. If you can find Penofin penetrating oil finish, sold for
decks, fences, outdoor furniture you will be fine. Can get colors too.
This is whatthe pro painters use for outdoor wood anything. You'll
need to reapply on occasion but great protection and no peeling or
heavy pre-work required for reapply.

If Birch is a must then I'm done. If wood choice is an option you
should go with Teak or White Oak or maybe even clear heart Redwood if
you really want something that can stand to be in the weather.


On Jul 15, 8:46=A0am, G Mulcaster <[email protected]> wrote:
> Hi folks,
>
> I'm making a luggage rack for a motorcycle trailer out of birch. =A0I've
> done some experimenting with stains: =A0the wood seems to absorb
> unevenly, despite using Minwax PreStain. =A0Therefore, =A0a clear finish
> seems appropriate.
>
> Would prefer a finish not subject to peeling/blistering etc. (Oil?).
>
> What type of outdoor finish would you recommned?
>
> Gary

TB

Tom B

in reply to G Mulcaster on 15/07/2008 3:46 PM

16/07/2008 2:33 PM

I built an Ipe deck a couple of years ago. Contrary to what folklore
might say, it's not that hard to work. It saws, drills, sands, and
shapes - not easily, but not impossible either. The splinters that can
occur on sawing are nasty, sharper than heck! It glues up fine with TB
III and a naptha wipe before gluing. No separation after 2+ years in
Dallas weather (hot and sometimes wet).

It does appear to be bullet proof once machined. It is, however, very
heavy (~60 lb/ft^3), which might be a consideration on a cycle.

Regards.

Tom

<<<<<<<<<<<< SNIP >>>>>>>>>>>>>>
On Wed, 16 Jul 2008 11:11:25 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>You could
>possibly also try Ipe, a hardwood used for decks. It takes some
>special care of sealing the ends with wax to prevent cracking, etc.
>but it is also called iron wood and for good reason. Haven't tried
>shaping, gluing or otherwise building with it but it does seem pretty
>bullet proof to weather and fairly common in construction type lumber
>dealers.

GM

G Mulcaster

in reply to G Mulcaster on 15/07/2008 3:46 PM

16/07/2008 6:52 PM

On Tue, 15 Jul 2008 15:46:13 GMT, G Mulcaster
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Hi folks,
>
>I'm making a luggage rack for a motorcycle trailer out of birch. I've
>done some experimenting with stains: the wood seems to absorb
>unevenly, despite using Minwax PreStain. Therefore, a clear finish
>seems appropriate.
>
>Would prefer a finish not subject to peeling/blistering etc. (Oil?).
>
>What type of outdoor finish would you recommned?
>
Thanks to everone for your helpful responses.
Regards, Gary

Sb

"SonomaProducts.com"

in reply to G Mulcaster on 15/07/2008 3:46 PM

16/07/2008 11:11 AM

Unfortunately Red Oak is very porous and not very well suited for
exterior use. Cut a piece a few inches long and you can use it like a
strwa and often actually see light if you look through the end grain.

White Oak has been used for centuries as a boat building material of
choice because the cellular makup of White Oak is closed and does not
allow penetration of water.

Actually anything will work as long as you keep it well protected with
a penetrating oil but imprevious woods are just a better approach and
require so much less maintenance. There are a a few others like Cedar,
Cyprus (sp?) that might be available locally to you but these are
somewhat less resistant and not as suited structurally. You could
possibly also try Ipe, a hardwood used for decks. It takes some
special care of sealing the ends with wax to prevent cracking, etc.
but it is also called iron wood and for good reason. Haven't tried
shaping, gluing or otherwise building with it but it does seem pretty
bullet proof to weather and fairly common in construction type lumber
dealers.

On Jul 15, 1:24=A0pm, G Mulcaster <[email protected]> wrote:
> Thanks for the info. =A0May I ask what do you think of red oak? =A0I have
> plenty of it.
>
> Regards, Gary
>
>
>
> >Yes, an appropriate oil is the best bet for sun and water exposed
> >materials. If you can find Penofin penetrating oil finish, sold for
> >decks, fences, outdoor furniture you will be fine. Can get colors too.
> >This is whatthe pro painters use for outdoor wood anything. You'll
> >need to reapply on occasion but great protection and no peeling or
> >heavy pre-work required for reapply.
>
> >If Birch is a must then I'm done. If wood choice is an option you
> >should go with Teak or White Oak or maybe even clear heart Redwood if
> >you really want something that can stand to be in the weather.
>
> >On Jul 15, 8:46=A0am, G Mulcaster <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> Hi folks,
>
> >> I'm making a luggage rack for a motorcycle trailer out of birch. =A0I'=
ve
> >> done some experimenting with stains: =A0the wood seems to absorb
> >> unevenly, despite using Minwax PreStain. =A0Therefore, =A0a clear fini=
sh
> >> seems appropriate.
>
> >> Would prefer a finish not subject to peeling/blistering etc. (Oil?).
>
> >> What type of outdoor finish would you recommned?
>
> >> Gary- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Lr

"Leon"

in reply to G Mulcaster on 15/07/2008 3:46 PM

15/07/2008 6:45 PM


"G Mulcaster" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thanks for the info. May I ask what do you think of red oak? I have
> plenty of it.
>
> Regards, Gary

Red Oak is a poor out door wood. Use White Oak instead.

bb

beecrofter

in reply to G Mulcaster on 15/07/2008 3:46 PM

15/07/2008 8:05 PM

On Jul 15, 11:46=A0am, G Mulcaster <[email protected]> wrote:
> Hi folks,
>
> I'm making a luggage rack for a motorcycle trailer out of birch. =A0I've
> done some experimenting with stains: =A0the wood seems to absorb
> unevenly, despite using Minwax PreStain. =A0Therefore, =A0a clear finish
> seems appropriate.
>
> Would prefer a finish not subject to peeling/blistering etc. (Oil?).
>
> What type of outdoor finish would you recommned?
>
> Gary

You ain't building the ark, spring for a wood with some degree of
weather resistance like teak. I doubt you will use more than a few bd
ft.

JC

"J. Clarke"

in reply to G Mulcaster on 15/07/2008 3:46 PM

16/07/2008 7:43 AM

G Mulcaster wrote:
> Hi folks,
>
> I'm making a luggage rack for a motorcycle trailer out of birch.
> I've
> done some experimenting with stains: the wood seems to absorb
> unevenly, despite using Minwax PreStain. Therefore, a clear finish
> seems appropriate.
>
> Would prefer a finish not subject to peeling/blistering etc. (Oil?).
>
> What type of outdoor finish would you recommned?

Paint. If you're not going to be storing the rack indoors most of the
time you're going to find that maintaining a clear finish is a pain in
the ass.

Also, birch is not the best choice for anything that will be kept
outdoors, as it rots easily. Cypress and white oak have good decay
resistance, are readily available in the US, and relatively
inexpensive. If you can find it sassafras is another good bet--it's
about the same price as cypress around here.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

GM

G Mulcaster

in reply to G Mulcaster on 15/07/2008 3:46 PM

16/07/2008 6:48 PM

Again, thank you for the information.
Gary

>Unfortunately Red Oak is very porous and not very well suited for
>exterior use. Cut a piece a few inches long and you can use it like a
>strwa and often actually see light if you look through the end grain.
>
>White Oak has been used for centuries as a boat building material of
>choice because the cellular makup of White Oak is closed and does not
>allow penetration of water.
>
>Actually anything will work as long as you keep it well protected with
>a penetrating oil but imprevious woods are just a better approach and
>require so much less maintenance. There are a a few others like Cedar,
>Cyprus (sp?) that might be available locally to you but these are
>somewhat less resistant and not as suited structurally. You could
>possibly also try Ipe, a hardwood used for decks. It takes some
>special care of sealing the ends with wax to prevent cracking, etc.
>but it is also called iron wood and for good reason. Haven't tried
>shaping, gluing or otherwise building with it but it does seem pretty
>bullet proof to weather and fairly common in construction type lumber
>dealers.
>
>On Jul 15, 1:24 pm, G Mulcaster <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Thanks for the info.  May I ask what do you think of red oak?  I have
>> plenty of it.
>>
>> Regards, Gary
>>
>>
>>
>> >Yes, an appropriate oil is the best bet for sun and water exposed
>> >materials. If you can find Penofin penetrating oil finish, sold for
>> >decks, fences, outdoor furniture you will be fine. Can get colors too.
>> >This is whatthe pro painters use for outdoor wood anything. You'll
>> >need to reapply on occasion but great protection and no peeling or
>> >heavy pre-work required for reapply.
>>
>> >If Birch is a must then I'm done. If wood choice is an option you
>> >should go with Teak or White Oak or maybe even clear heart Redwood if
>> >you really want something that can stand to be in the weather.
>>
>> >On Jul 15, 8:46 am, G Mulcaster <[email protected]> wrote:
>> >> Hi folks,
>>
>> >> I'm making a luggage rack for a motorcycle trailer out of birch.  I've
>> >> done some experimenting with stains:  the wood seems to absorb
>> >> unevenly, despite using Minwax PreStain.  Therefore,  a clear finish
>> >> seems appropriate.
>>
>> >> Would prefer a finish not subject to peeling/blistering etc. (Oil?).
>>
>> >> What type of outdoor finish would you recommned?
>>
>> >> Gary- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -

GM

G Mulcaster

in reply to G Mulcaster on 15/07/2008 3:46 PM

15/07/2008 8:24 PM

Thanks for the info. May I ask what do you think of red oak? I have
plenty of it.

Regards, Gary

>Yes, an appropriate oil is the best bet for sun and water exposed
>materials. If you can find Penofin penetrating oil finish, sold for
>decks, fences, outdoor furniture you will be fine. Can get colors too.
>This is whatthe pro painters use for outdoor wood anything. You'll
>need to reapply on occasion but great protection and no peeling or
>heavy pre-work required for reapply.
>
>If Birch is a must then I'm done. If wood choice is an option you
>should go with Teak or White Oak or maybe even clear heart Redwood if
>you really want something that can stand to be in the weather.
>
>
>On Jul 15, 8:46 am, G Mulcaster <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Hi folks,
>>
>> I'm making a luggage rack for a motorcycle trailer out of birch.  I've
>> done some experimenting with stains:  the wood seems to absorb
>> unevenly, despite using Minwax PreStain.  Therefore,  a clear finish
>> seems appropriate.
>>
>> Would prefer a finish not subject to peeling/blistering etc. (Oil?).
>>
>> What type of outdoor finish would you recommned?
>>
>> Gary

ca

clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada

in reply to G Mulcaster on 15/07/2008 3:46 PM

15/07/2008 9:58 PM

On Tue, 15 Jul 2008 20:24:38 GMT, G Mulcaster
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Thanks for the info. May I ask what do you think of red oak? I have
>plenty of it.
>

Red oak has NO weather resistance. It is very porous. White oak is
used in shipbuilding and barrel building. Red oak is no good for
either.

Birch isn't the best either.
>Regards, Gary
>
>>Yes, an appropriate oil is the best bet for sun and water exposed
>>materials. If you can find Penofin penetrating oil finish, sold for
>>decks, fences, outdoor furniture you will be fine. Can get colors too.
>>This is whatthe pro painters use for outdoor wood anything. You'll
>>need to reapply on occasion but great protection and no peeling or
>>heavy pre-work required for reapply.
>>
>>If Birch is a must then I'm done. If wood choice is an option you
>>should go with Teak or White Oak or maybe even clear heart Redwood if
>>you really want something that can stand to be in the weather.
>>
>>
>>On Jul 15, 8:46 am, G Mulcaster <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> Hi folks,
>>>
>>> I'm making a luggage rack for a motorcycle trailer out of birch.  I've
>>> done some experimenting with stains:  the wood seems to absorb
>>> unevenly, despite using Minwax PreStain.  Therefore,  a clear finish
>>> seems appropriate.
>>>
>>> Would prefer a finish not subject to peeling/blistering etc. (Oil?).
>>>
>>> What type of outdoor finish would you recommned?
>>>
>>> Gary

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