Hi Gang
Just bought a new 60 gallon Rol-Air Compressor (oil sump) for my
basement shop. I have two quick questions:
1.) I checked the archives, but could not find a good example for how
often to empty and drain the tank, both of air and water buildup.
Obviously it takes a while to fill the 60 gallon tank, so I figure
that doing it every time I use it may be overkill. Every post I found
said "regularly", just need a definition.
2.) I would like to install a water trap at the end of one line for a
future HVLP sprayer (probably far in the future for now), and I was
wondering if it is OK to run nailers off of the water trap, or if they
benefit from a slight oil mist from the regular lines.
TIA
Joe
"BIG JOE" writes:
> Based on that, I'll go with black iron. I will only have one line to
> start, which will have the filter/separator and regulator at the very
> end. I picked those up yesterday, the guy had a hard time finding 1/2"
> in stock. It will also have at least two risers in between, and an
> end line to blow out. I plan on pitching the line slightly downhill
> from the compressor.
>
> Next summer, I'll run a second line to the garage for filing tires,
> etc., though I'm no mechanic.
Some suggestions based on having designed and built a few compressed air
distribution systems.
Use 2" pipe as the distribution manifold.
Go to a plumbing supply house and get a 20 ft length of black pipe, then
have them or a local contractor cut it into 4-5 equal lengths and thread
both ends.
Use 2" x 2" x 3/4" reducing tees to connect these pipes together with the
3/4" side tap pointing up to the ceiling.
Hang the 2" pipe assembly with a slight pitch away from the compressor.
At the end of the 2" pipe assembly, install a ball valve to bleed down the
system.
Install a 3/4" hose between the compressor and the 2" pipe assembly.
Install two (2), 3/4", 90 degree street ells at each tee so that the outlet
is now pointing towards the ground.
Plug unused connections with pipe plugs.
Hang hoses from connections that will be used.
Install filter/regulator/lubricator devices where used on an as needed
basis.
Why go thru all the expense and aggravation above?
Several reasons that all have to do with keeping condensation away from the
tools.
1) 2" pipe reduces the velocity of the air, thus reducing air temperature,
thus reducing condensation.
2) 2" pipe reduces the velocity of the air, thus allowing any existing
condensation a chance to drop out and stay in the 2" pipe.
3) The use of two (2) street ells forces the air to first rise, then turn
180 degrees before traveling thru the hose to the tool. Makes it more
difficult for condensation to get to the tool.
HTH
--
Lew
S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: <http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett> for Pictures
> Just bought a new 60 gallon Rol-Air Compressor (oil sump) for my
> basement shop. I have two quick questions:
>
> 1.) I checked the archives, but could not find a good example for how
> often to empty and drain the tank, both of air and water buildup.
> Obviously it takes a while to fill the 60 gallon tank, so I figure
> that doing it every time I use it may be overkill. Every post I found
> said "regularly", just need a definition.
The usual standard they recommend is once a week.
> 2.) I would like to install a water trap at the end of one line for a
> future HVLP sprayer (probably far in the future for now), and I was
> wondering if it is OK to run nailers off of the water trap, or if they
> benefit from a slight oil mist from the regular lines.
Certainly OK to run nasilers with a water trap. You should however use Air
Tool Oil and add a few drops to the outlet of your nail gun before each use.
If you are using the nailer all day, you might have to add an extra couple
drops half way through the day for good measure.
Just check your air tools are not of the oil-less variety. In that case, you
should not add any oil of course :)
--
Regards,
Dean Bielanowski
Editor,
Online Tool Reviews
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com
------------------------------------------------------------
Latest 5 Reviews:
- Workshop Essentials Under $30
- Festool PS 300 Jigsaws
- Delta Universal Tenoning Jig
- Ryobi Reciprocating Saw
- Infinity Router Bits
------------------------------------------------------------
Is this a troll?
How do you get the oil to go from the outlet upstream and back through the
cylinder?
Wilson
"SawEyes" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> > Just bought a new 60 gallon Rol-Air Compressor (oil sump) for my
> > basement shop. I have two quick questions:
> >
> > 1.) I checked the archives, but could not find a good example for how
> > often to empty and drain the tank, both of air and water buildup.
> > Obviously it takes a while to fill the 60 gallon tank, so I figure
> > that doing it every time I use it may be overkill. Every post I found
> > said "regularly", just need a definition.
>
> The usual standard they recommend is once a week.
>
> > 2.) I would like to install a water trap at the end of one line for a
> > future HVLP sprayer (probably far in the future for now), and I was
> > wondering if it is OK to run nailers off of the water trap, or if they
> > benefit from a slight oil mist from the regular lines.
>
> Certainly OK to run nasilers with a water trap. You should however use Air
> Tool Oil and add a few drops to the outlet of your nail gun before each
use.
> If you are using the nailer all day, you might have to add an extra couple
> drops half way through the day for good measure.
> Just check your air tools are not of the oil-less variety. In that case,
you
> should not add any oil of course :)
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Dean Bielanowski
> Editor,
> Online Tool Reviews
> http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> Latest 5 Reviews:
> - Workshop Essentials Under $30
> - Festool PS 300 Jigsaws
> - Delta Universal Tenoning Jig
> - Ryobi Reciprocating Saw
> - Infinity Router Bits
> ------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
BIG JOE wants to know...
> ... how often to empty and drain the tank, both of air
> and water buildup.
Never for air; there's just no need. Water, every time it cycles on or
off isn't too often. I installed an automatic valve to do just that. It's
well worth the $10. Details here:
http://www.paragoncode.com/shop/compressor
> ... if it is OK to run nailers off of the water trap,
> or if they benefit from a slight oil mist from the
> regular lines.
The nailer might benefit from the oil, but I wouldn't rely on it. Nailers
should be oiled directly at the start of each day, at least. I run mine
after the trap.
Cheers!
Jim
Thanks Guys
I haven't bolted it to the floor yet (maybe later today), so thanks
for the hint on clearance.
I just figured out before logging on this morning I don't need to
drain the air to bleed the moisture. I don't know what I was
thinking.
BTW: After reviewing one of the links on another thread (T*P Tools
and Equipment Diagram), I am rethinking whether to use soft copper.
They highly recommend black metal. I just have to see if I can buy it
in the appropriate lengths so I don't have to do any cutting and
threading.
cheers
Joe
> BIG JOE wants to know...
>
> > ... how often to empty and drain the tank, both of air
> > and water buildup.
>
> Never for air; there's just no need. Water, every time it cycles on or
> off isn't too often. I installed an automatic valve to do just that. It's
> well worth the $10. Details here:
>
> http://www.paragoncode.com/shop/compressor
>
> > ... if it is OK to run nailers off of the water trap,
> > or if they benefit from a slight oil mist from the
> > regular lines.
>
> The nailer might benefit from the oil, but I wouldn't rely on it. Nailers
> should be oiled directly at the start of each day, at least. I run mine
> after the trap.
>
> Cheers!
>
> Jim
OK, now I'm back to square one on the lines. The guy at Neu's Ace
Hardwood swears nearly everyone uses "L" type sweated copper and that
the steel will eventually start flaking into the airlines and affect
finishing work.
>
> BTW: After reviewing one of the links on another thread (T*P Tools
> and Equipment Diagram), I am rethinking whether to use soft copper.
> They highly recommend black metal. I just have to see if I can buy it
> in the appropriate lengths so I don't have to do any cutting and
> threading.
>
> cheers
> Joe
>
>
>
Based on that, I'll go with black iron. I will only have one line to
start, which will have the filter/separator and regulator at the very
end. I picked those up yesterday, the guy had a hard time finding 1/2"
in stock. It will also have at least two risers in between, and an
end line to blow out. I plan on pitching the line slightly downhill
from the compressor.
Next summer, I'll run a second line to the garage for filing tires,
etc., though I'm no mechanic.
Joe
>
> What Norman said, iron won't flake but galvanized may.
>
> You may get a bit of rust with black pipe. This is one of the reasons to
> put a ball valve at the end of each main/ leg. Blow out the line with
> full flow and chances are a tool isn't going to move what
> contamination's left.
>
> Plus you want your filter/ separator close as you can get it to where
> your using air. You'll want to build a F/S stand and use a whip hose to
> connect it to the tap.
>
>
"Wilson Lamb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Is this a troll?
> How do you get the oil to go from the outlet upstream and back through the
> cylinder?
> Wilson
<snip>
> > Certainly OK to run nasilers with a water trap. You should however use
Air
> > Tool Oil and add a few drops to the outlet of your nail gun before each
> use.
Pull your tongue back out of your cheek & get a life Wilson.
(They call it an error)
Nahmie
"BIG JOE" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> OK, now I'm back to square one on the lines. The guy at Neu's Ace
> Hardwood swears nearly everyone uses "L" type sweated copper and that
> the steel will eventually start flaking into the airlines and affect
> finishing work.
Soft copper will work OK, or even hard copper with sweated fittings for a
home shop. However . . the black iron pipe doesn't *flake*. Galvanized
might! My SIL is a commercial plumber, and at least here in Southwestern NY
State, code calls for black iron for compressed air piping.
Nahmie
"Wilson Lamb" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> Nailers are fine with a couple drops of oil now and then. ......
I got a great deal on a "dead" Senco stapler with which someone
followed this advice to oil. Once I cleaned out all the old gunky oil
and put in a new rebuild kit I had a great stapler for $30 materials
and some sweat equity.
Advice: Not all guns need oil.
Mike
I leave my drain minutely cracked, so it bleeds all the time. I mean just
enough bleed so you can hear it if you are near. Water can get ahead of you
and build up quite a bit if you forget to drain.
Nailers are fine with a couple drops of oil now and then. To really dry
out, you'll probably want to use silica gel, which can be baked to reuse, or
a refrigerated unit. It's a big advantage of turbines that they don't
compress enough to cause condensation AND they put out warm air that keeps
things dry.
Wilson
"BIG JOE" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi Gang
>
> Just bought a new 60 gallon Rol-Air Compressor (oil sump) for my
> basement shop. I have two quick questions:
>
> 1.) I checked the archives, but could not find a good example for how
> often to empty and drain the tank, both of air and water buildup.
> Obviously it takes a while to fill the 60 gallon tank, so I figure
> that doing it every time I use it may be overkill. Every post I found
> said "regularly", just need a definition.
>
> 2.) I would like to install a water trap at the end of one line for a
> future HVLP sprayer (probably far in the future for now), and I was
> wondering if it is OK to run nailers off of the water trap, or if they
> benefit from a slight oil mist from the regular lines.
>
> TIA
> Joe
BIG JOE wrote:
> OK, now I'm back to square one on the lines. The guy at Neu's Ace
> Hardwood swears nearly everyone uses "L" type sweated copper and that
> the steel will eventually start flaking into the airlines and affect
> finishing work.
>
What Norman said, iron won't flake but galvanized may.
You may get a bit of rust with black pipe. This is one of the reasons to
put a ball valve at the end of each main/ leg. Blow out the line with
full flow and chances are a tool isn't going to move what
contamination's left.
Plus you want your filter/ separator close as you can get it to where
your using air. You'll want to build a F/S stand and use a whip hose to
connect it to the tap.
--
Mark
N.E. Ohio
Never argue with a fool, a bystander can't tell you apart. (S. Clemens,
A.K.A. Mark Twain)
When in doubt hit the throttle. It may not help but it sure ends the
suspense. (Gaz, r.moto)
BIG JOE wrote:
> 1.) I checked the archives, but could not find a good example for how
> often to empty and drain the tank, both of air and water buildup.
There's no need to empty the tank of air. How often you need to drain water
from the tank will depend on the weather and how much air you use. Drain
it every day to start; if no water comes out, you can reduce the frequency.
Most air tanks come with tiny little drain valves that are hard to open.
Replace it with a good ball valve to make it easier to drain. There are
also automatic drain valves; look here on rec woodworking and also over in
rec.crafts.metalworking for posts about these.
--
--
Steve