Wow! thnx for the info - i'll look into the TS blade first and see if that
will do what I want
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Sawing brass isn't a problem, _provided_ you use a blade designed for
> sawing non-ferrous metals. For example, here's info on Freud blades:
> http://www.right-tool.com/freudlu8nons.html (There are several other
> brands that sell non-ferrous blades, too.)
>
> The key thing is that the blade teeth have a negative hook angle, that
> is, the tooth faces are pointed a little bit backwards. Woodworking
> blades have positive hook angles, which would cause brass to be pulled
> into the blade as you cut. That wouldn't be a lot of fun.
>
> I'd be afraid of using router bits for this very reason.
> Metal-cutting end-mills would probably work in a router, but you're
> limited in geometry to flat end and ball nose cutters. Something like
> a carbide single flute countersink cutter
> (https://www.travers.com/pdfshow.asp?p=91) might give you the
> V-channel you're looking for. The 1/4" size would chuck into a 1/4"
> collet in a router, and it's rated speed for cutting brass would be
> about 10,000 rpm. These may not be able to cut a sharp V at the tip
> since countersinks aren't designed to do that, however.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Tim
>
> "Damned if i know" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<yX9Ac.738511$Pk3.230821@pd7tw1no>...
> > Hey guys and girls!
> >
> > I need to cut a V channel in some brass. How well does it work with
carbide
> > bits and or table saw blades. I've done lots of aluminum but I know
that is
> > much softer than brass. Any help and or experience you have would be
> > greatly appreciated
I have that saw Dave. You don't need to move any belts, just pull a knob to
change from high or low ratio gearing. Of course it still has step pulleys
for changing speeds within a range. Mine is old, has the hex blade guide
rod, but I have not checked just how old. Probably not 1940's like your
dad's so maybe the belt arrangement was changed. Mine does have two belts
however, and it might be confusing to know what goes where without a manual.
You can see mine here; http://billpounds.com/woodshop/bandsaw.html
Yes, you can buy that saw today. Spendy though, as bandsaws go.
--
Bill Pounds
http://www.billpounds.com/woodshop
"Dave W" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My dad had a two speed Delta bandsaw
> which was very useful as a woodworking tool and for cutting metals
including
> steel. It was just like the current Delta 14 inch bandsaw but had a
> gearbox. Getting the slow speed involved removing the belt which went
from
> motor to lower BS wheel. A lever on the gearbox was thrown and a
different
> belt put on between motor and gearbox. I have never seen another one; it
> was definitely pre 1940. If someone came out with one today, I would buy
> one.
> Dave
On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 21:28:58 GMT, "Mike Hide" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>You know they make machine tools to do work on metals .....mjh
No sense wasting so much time on such a stupid question. I'd suggest
he try it and let us know ...when he gets out of the hospital. It
sounds more like a troll than a troll.
Bill.
On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 15:49:57 GMT, "Norm Dresner" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>> "Damned if i know" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:yX9Ac.738511$Pk3.230821@pd7tw1no...
>> > Hey guys and girls!
>> >
>> > I need to cut a V channel in some brass. How well does it work with
>> carbide
>> > bits and or table saw blades. I've done lots of aluminum but I know
>that
>> is
>> > much softer than brass. Any help and or experience you have would be
>> > greatly appreciated
>> >
>
>I've cut brass on a variable speed band saw and a slow speed miniature table
>saw with good results. I've used a Dremel in a miniature drill press to
>mill designs. BUT ONLY AT LOW CUTTING SPEED. If your router has -- or can
>be attached to -- a speed control, then go for it with a carbide blade. You
>might also conisder mounted, shaped stones of the type usually used in "die
>grinders".
>
> Norm
router bits are designed to cut wood at high rpms. if you slow the
tool down it becomes easy to overfeed the material into it- that big
gullet designed to clear sawdust will allow the tool to grab a big
bite and kick that bit of brass in a nasty way.
however, there are cutters designed for metal that will fit your
router's collet. go to a machinists' supply house and ask there. they
will be able to sell you the appropriate cutter and advise you as to
the proper speed to run it and what lubricant to use.
"Damned if i know" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<yX9Ac.738511$Pk3.230821@pd7tw1no>...
> I need to cut a V channel in some brass.
What's "brass" ? It comes in all sorts of grades, from soft to hard.
Hard brass (rolled etc.) can be really hard work to machine like this.
For some of the alloys (especially BeCu) then I'd run a mile from this
sort of lash-up.
> How well does it work with carbide
> bits and or table saw blades.
Badly. I wouldn't rout it. I _really_ wouldn't unless I could run my
router very slowly. I'd think about it with something like an overhead
router and leadscrews to feed the stock into the cutter.
And I've never liked machining something with dust-like conductive
fragments coming off it and a poorly sealed motor nearby.
If you have to cut this on a circular saw, then this is definitely
time to get a blade with negative rake on the teeth. They're easy to
get - the door & window fitting trade use them.
On the whole, go to it. But turn that cutter slowly and make sure that
the workpiece is clamped down firmly. Feeding a hand-held cutter into
brass would give me conniptions.
Personally I'd probably reach for a file.
On Fri, 18 Jun 2004 00:34:11 GMT, Damned if i know <[email protected]> wrote:
> Thanx to all (except the one dumb ass who can't understand questions need to
> be asked. Only stupid people don't ask questions and even stupider assholes
> ridicule questions) I'll skip the cutting of brass on the router or table
> saw.
You know, the attitude you're showing isn't helping anything. Usenet
requires a thick skin; if you're going to get all shook up by one person
saying you're trying something stupid or whatever they said, you won't
enjoy it here much.
Blow off the useless answers; ranting about it (in two messages now)
doesn't get you anywhere good.
On Sat, 19 Jun 2004 03:51:09 GMT, Damned if i know <[email protected]> wrote:
> You are right I shouldn't lower myself to a trolls level. I plonked him and
> thats all I should have done.
That's not what I said, I said you need to not be so damn touchy.
The guy who told you you were proposing something stupid wasn't
being a troll, he was pointing out something that he felt was important.
You can choose to play a "who is grumpier than who" game, but that
doesn't make him a troll.
If you respond like this to everyone who tries to give you advice
_that you asked for_, you'll find that nobody will answer your questions.
Thanx to all (except the one dumb ass who can't understand questions need to
be asked. Only stupid people don't ask questions and even stupider assholes
ridicule questions) I'll skip the cutting of brass on the router or table
saw.
"Damned if i know" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:yX9Ac.738511$Pk3.230821@pd7tw1no...
> Hey guys and girls!
>
> I need to cut a V channel in some brass. How well does it work with
carbide
> bits and or table saw blades. I've done lots of aluminum but I know that
is
> much softer than brass. Any help and or experience you have would be
> greatly appreciated
>
>
On Fri, 18 Jun 2004 00:34:11 GMT, "Damned if i know" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Only stupid people don't ask questions and even stupider assholes
>ridicule questions
Be tolerant of the short-fuzed, for their patience is sorely tried by
the abundance of genuine trolls.
> "Damned if i know" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:yX9Ac.738511$Pk3.230821@pd7tw1no...
> > Hey guys and girls!
> >
> > I need to cut a V channel in some brass. How well does it work with
> carbide
> > bits and or table saw blades. I've done lots of aluminum but I know
that
> is
> > much softer than brass. Any help and or experience you have would be
> > greatly appreciated
> >
I've cut brass on a variable speed band saw and a slow speed miniature table
saw with good results. I've used a Dremel in a miniature drill press to
mill designs. BUT ONLY AT LOW CUTTING SPEED. If your router has -- or can
be attached to -- a speed control, then go for it with a carbide blade. You
might also conisder mounted, shaped stones of the type usually used in "die
grinders".
Norm
Duck soup on a milling machine. Look for a small shop or hobbiest who will
help.
Wilson
"Damned if i know" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:yX9Ac.738511$Pk3.230821@pd7tw1no...
> Hey guys and girls!
>
> I need to cut a V channel in some brass. How well does it work with
carbide
> bits and or table saw blades. I've done lots of aluminum but I know that
is
> much softer than brass. Any help and or experience you have would be
> greatly appreciated
>
>
Sorry, its hacksaw and files for brass. Sometimes one can drill holes to
lessen the amount of handsawing. Using the table saw or router is asking
for pieces to fly around the shop! My dad had a two speed Delta bandsaw
which was very useful as a woodworking tool and for cutting metals including
steel. It was just like the current Delta 14 inch bandsaw but had a
gearbox. Getting the slow speed involved removing the belt which went from
motor to lower BS wheel. A lever on the gearbox was thrown and a different
belt put on between motor and gearbox. I have never seen another one; it
was definitely pre 1940. If someone came out with one today, I would buy
one.
Dave
"Damned if i know" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:yX9Ac.738511$Pk3.230821@pd7tw1no...
> Hey guys and girls!
>
> I need to cut a V channel in some brass. How well does it work with
carbide
> bits and or table saw blades. I've done lots of aluminum but I know that
is
> much softer than brass. Any help and or experience you have would be
> greatly appreciated
>
>
You are right I shouldn't lower myself to a trolls level. I plonked him and
thats all I should have done.
"Dave Hinz" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 18 Jun 2004 00:34:11 GMT, Damned if i know <[email protected]> wrote:
> > Thanx to all (except the one dumb ass who can't understand questions
need to
> > be asked. Only stupid people don't ask questions and even stupider
assholes
> > ridicule questions) I'll skip the cutting of brass on the router or
table
> > saw.
>
> You know, the attitude you're showing isn't helping anything. Usenet
> requires a thick skin; if you're going to get all shook up by one person
> saying you're trying something stupid or whatever they said, you won't
> enjoy it here much.
>
> Blow off the useless answers; ranting about it (in two messages now)
> doesn't get you anywhere good.
>
Well you can kiss my ass bitch. It was an honest question so screw you -
plonk
"Bill Rogers" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> No sense wasting so much time on such a stupid question. I'd suggest
> he try it and let us know ...when he gets out of the hospital. It
> sounds more like a troll than a troll.
>
> Bill.
>
Actually, in Wood #155 there is a plan for a torpedo level that has brass
inserts. They sandwiched it between two pieces of hardboard and cut it on a
bandsaw, then sanded to the line on a disc sander. Hope this helps.
Charlie
> Sorry, its hacksaw and files for brass. Sometimes one can drill holes to
> lessen the amount of handsawing. Using the table saw or router is asking
> for pieces to fly around the shop! My dad had a two speed Delta bandsaw
> which was very useful as a woodworking tool and for cutting metals
including
> steel. It was just like the current Delta 14 inch bandsaw but had a
> gearbox. Getting the slow speed involved removing the belt which went
from
> motor to lower BS wheel. A lever on the gearbox was thrown and a
different
> belt put on between motor and gearbox. I have never seen another one; it
> was definitely pre 1940. If someone came out with one today, I would buy
> one.
> Dave
> "Damned if i know" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:yX9Ac.738511$Pk3.230821@pd7tw1no...
> > Hey guys and girls!
> >
> > I need to cut a V channel in some brass. How well does it work with
> carbide
> > bits and or table saw blades. I've done lots of aluminum but I know
that
> is
> > much softer than brass. Any help and or experience you have would be
> > greatly appreciated
> >
> >
>
>
"Dave W" <[email protected]> writes:
> I have never seen another one; it
> was definitely pre 1940. If someone came out with one today, I would buy
> one.
I've see an add-on in a recent catalog for the Jet 14" BS, to make it
into the multi-speed metal/wood type.
--
Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.
Sawing brass isn't a problem, _provided_ you use a blade designed for
sawing non-ferrous metals. For example, here's info on Freud blades:
http://www.right-tool.com/freudlu8nons.html (There are several other
brands that sell non-ferrous blades, too.)
The key thing is that the blade teeth have a negative hook angle, that
is, the tooth faces are pointed a little bit backwards. Woodworking
blades have positive hook angles, which would cause brass to be pulled
into the blade as you cut. That wouldn't be a lot of fun.
I'd be afraid of using router bits for this very reason.
Metal-cutting end-mills would probably work in a router, but you're
limited in geometry to flat end and ball nose cutters. Something like
a carbide single flute countersink cutter
(https://www.travers.com/pdfshow.asp?p=91) might give you the
V-channel you're looking for. The 1/4" size would chuck into a 1/4"
collet in a router, and it's rated speed for cutting brass would be
about 10,000 rpm. These may not be able to cut a sharp V at the tip
since countersinks aren't designed to do that, however.
Good luck,
Tim
"Damned if i know" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<yX9Ac.738511$Pk3.230821@pd7tw1no>...
> Hey guys and girls!
>
> I need to cut a V channel in some brass. How well does it work with carbide
> bits and or table saw blades. I've done lots of aluminum but I know that is
> much softer than brass. Any help and or experience you have would be
> greatly appreciated
"Dave W" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
A lever on the gearbox was thrown and a different
> belt put on between motor and gearbox. I have never seen another one; it
> was definitely pre 1940. If someone came out with one today, I would buy
> one.
The General 590 bandsaw
(http://www.general.ca/product/general/590an.html) has a gearbox with
a shift lever for high and low range and step pulleys for four speeds
in each. (It's also a beautifly finished piece of machinery.)
Tim
Brass and copper cut very nicely with a good sabersaw. Set the saw to 0
rake if you have that control as the Bosch does, use a medium slow speed. I
cut !/4" flat stock and bar stock up to 2" in diameter all the time. I use
Lennox blades 14- 18 TPI.
Ed Angell
"Damned if i know" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:yX9Ac.738511$Pk3.230821@pd7tw1no...
> Hey guys and girls!
>
> I need to cut a V channel in some brass. How well does it work with
carbide
> bits and or table saw blades. I've done lots of aluminum but I know that
is
> much softer than brass. Any help and or experience you have would be
> greatly appreciated
>
>
You know they make machine tools to do work on metals .....mjh
--
http://members.tripod.com/mikehide2
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 15:49:57 GMT, "Norm Dresner" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >> "Damned if i know" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >> news:yX9Ac.738511$Pk3.230821@pd7tw1no...
> >> > Hey guys and girls!
> >> >
> >> > I need to cut a V channel in some brass. How well does it work with
> >> carbide
> >> > bits and or table saw blades. I've done lots of aluminum but I know
> >that
> >> is
> >> > much softer than brass. Any help and or experience you have would be
> >> > greatly appreciated
> >> >
> >
> >I've cut brass on a variable speed band saw and a slow speed miniature
table
> >saw with good results. I've used a Dremel in a miniature drill press to
> >mill designs. BUT ONLY AT LOW CUTTING SPEED. If your router has -- or
can
> >be attached to -- a speed control, then go for it with a carbide blade.
You
> >might also conisder mounted, shaped stones of the type usually used in
"die
> >grinders".
> >
> > Norm
>
>
>
> router bits are designed to cut wood at high rpms. if you slow the
> tool down it becomes easy to overfeed the material into it- that big
> gullet designed to clear sawdust will allow the tool to grab a big
> bite and kick that bit of brass in a nasty way.
>
> however, there are cutters designed for metal that will fit your
> router's collet. go to a machinists' supply house and ask there. they
> will be able to sell you the appropriate cutter and advise you as to
> the proper speed to run it and what lubricant to use.