Dave asks:
>What is cotton wood and is it good for wood working? Someone
>identified a downed tree as cotton wood but I'm not sure if it's worth
>the effort to saw it into boards. Any inputs would be greatly
Do it. Synopsis: Cottonwood Gray-white to light brown; straight, uniform
texture; works easily with hand tools, holds fasteners well, glues up well.
Fine carving wood, does not hold detail as well as basswood. Tends to fuzz up
when sanded. Stains blotch. Clear finishes and paints well. Stable after
drying.
Good luck.
Charlie Self
"In our civilization, and under our republican form of government, intelligence
is so highly honored that it is rewarded by exemption from the cares of
office." Ambrose Bierce
On 10 May 2004 12:41:46 -0700, Charlie Campney <[email protected]> wrote:
> I've got a cottonwood stump in my back yard about 5' diameter and 25'
> high, free for the taking.
Big tree. Must be 5, 6 years old at that size, eh?
It's a lot like Box Elder (it's a soft maple) that we have here in Wisconsin.
Damn tree is a weed, and interferes with other trees. I don't even
bother making firewood out of it any more (stoped after the first year),
I just drop them & let them turn back into soil. Seems that 3 or 4 years
is enough to recycle them.
> South central Kentucky. Got sick of all the fuzz in the pool ! ! !
If Charlie says it's worthwhile for woodworking as he described,
that sure beats trying to use it for firewood. It's all about
weight when dry, and cottonwood sure doesn't have much of that.
Maybe someone will want it who doesn't know just how much work it
is for very little heat. But, if nobody takes it, it makes a
nice mulch.
Dave Hinz
Dave Hinz notes:
>> South central Kentucky. Got sick of all the fuzz in the pool ! ! !
>
>If Charlie says it's worthwhile for woodworking as he described,
>that sure beats trying to use it for firewood. It's all about
>weight when dry, and cottonwood sure doesn't have much of that.
>Maybe someone will want it who doesn't know just how much work it
>is for very little heat. But, if nobody takes it, it makes a
>nice mulch.
I wouldn't use it for fine furniture, but it's a decent carving wood, though
not as good as basswood, makes pretty good dough bowls (though, in fact, yellow
poplar, which is a magnolia, makes better ones), and it does fuzz a bit when
sanded. It's lightweight, which is a curse at times and a blessing at others.
I've only used it for firewood out in a Utah desert area where nothing else was
available. Not much of a firewood, but the downed pieces were immense, so there
was plenty of heat once they were burning nicely.
I guess it could be described as a wood that is "not as good as" and let it go
at that. It can be used. It is seldom if ever first choice.
Charlie Self
"In our civilization, and under our republican form of government, intelligence
is so highly honored that it is rewarded by exemption from the cares of
office." Ambrose Bierce
Dave Hinz <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> About basswood - I need to remove a basswood tree, about 12" in diameter
> at the bottom. How should I cut & store it for carving purposes?
Almost any way you like. Basswood (which is a little harded than our
European limes / lindens) is a very easy timber to dry.
I'd go for thick boards, maybe 4". If you _know_ you're going to want
a big lump for carving, or you _know_ that you only want thin boards,
then saw it like that. Cutting 4" now though is a reasonable
compromise between being able to fit most carving blanks out of it, or
being resawable down to thinner boards in the future. As it's an easy
timber to season, then 4" rather than the 2" I'd suggest for most
furniture hardwoods doesn't make things difficult.
I'd lose the central pith (make one cut to halve the log), as any flat
timber is going to be a problem with cracking if you've "boxed the
heart". I'd flat saw it, rather than quarter sawing it, as this
improves yield. There's no quarter sawn figure to go for (unlike oak)
and lime doesn't suffer much warping trouble on a flatsawn boards.
Wax the ends, sticker the boards and leave it ignored in the drying
shed for a few years ("year an inch thickness", but limes will dry
faster than that in most climates). Don't fool about with PEG, for
limes you don't need it.
Watch for water damage, roof leaks etc. If there's any water on the
stack whilst drying, you can lose a lot of this timber to rot or
discolouration, and it's not an attractive spalting.
Andy Dingley responds:
>Wax the ends, sticker the boards and leave it ignored in the drying
>shed for a few years ("year an inch thickness", but limes will dry
>faster than that in most climates). Don't fool about with PEG, for
>limes you don't need it.
Unless you don't want to wait "few years". You don't truly need PEG for any
wood, but it's handy for some and speeds up time to use for most.
I've packed my charts, but I'd guess you could use a 4" chunk of basswood
inside of 100 days if you use PEG.
Charlie Self
"In our civilization, and under our republican form of government, intelligence
is so highly honored that it is rewarded by exemption from the cares of
office." Ambrose Bierce
On 11 May 2004 10:54:36 GMT, Charlie Self <[email protected]> wrote:
> Andy Dingley responds:
>
>>Wax the ends, sticker the boards and leave it ignored in the drying
>>shed for a few years ("year an inch thickness", but limes will dry
>>faster than that in most climates). Don't fool about with PEG, for
>>limes you don't need it.
>
> Unless you don't want to wait "few years". You don't truly need PEG for any
> wood, but it's handy for some and speeds up time to use for most.
> I've packed my charts, but I'd guess you could use a 4" chunk of basswood
> inside of 100 days if you use PEG.
Thanks to both of you. Can I use parrafin wax, or should I use something
different?
Dave Hinz asks:
>>>Wax the ends, sticker the boards and leave it ignored in the drying
>>>shed for a few years ("year an inch thickness", but limes will dry
>>>faster than that in most climates). Don't fool about with PEG, for
>>>limes you don't need it.
>>
>> Unless you don't want to wait "few years". You don't truly need PEG for any
>> wood, but it's handy for some and speeds up time to use for most.
>> I've packed my charts, but I'd guess you could use a 4" chunk of basswood
>> inside of 100 days if you use PEG.
>
>Thanks to both of you. Can I use parrafin wax, or should I use something
>different?
There are specific coatings, but parrafin wax should work fine. You can use
almost any heavy paint or coating, as long as it comes very close to sealing
the end grain. Understand that you will lose an inch or two of that end grain
when you trim the wax off.
Check out http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&offerings_id=1178
for green wood sealer.
Charlie Self
"In our civilization, and under our republican form of government, intelligence
is so highly honored that it is rewarded by exemption from the cares of
office." Ambrose Bierce
Charlie Self wrote:
> There are specific coatings, but parrafin wax should work fine. You can use
> almost any heavy paint or coating, as long as it comes very close to sealing
> the end grain. Understand that you will lose an inch or two of that end grain
> when you trim the wax off.
>
> Check out http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&offerings_id=1178
> for green wood sealer.
Anchorseal is another product used for sealing the end grain. It's made by U C
Coatings in Buffalo and is available in quarts, gallons, 5 gallon pails and 55
gallon drums. IIRC they ship anywhere in the continental US free. See:
https://www.uccoatings.com/
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
On 11 May 2004 14:35:15 GMT, Dave Hinz <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 11 May 2004 10:54:36 GMT, Charlie Self <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Andy Dingley responds:
>>
>>>Wax the ends, sticker the boards and leave it ignored in the drying
>>>shed for a few years ("year an inch thickness", but limes will dry
>>>faster than that in most climates). Don't fool about with PEG, for
>>>limes you don't need it.
>>
>> Unless you don't want to wait "few years". You don't truly need PEG for any
>> wood, but it's handy for some and speeds up time to use for most.
>> I've packed my charts, but I'd guess you could use a 4" chunk of basswood
>> inside of 100 days if you use PEG.
>
>Thanks to both of you. Can I use parrafin wax, or should I use something
>different?
The last time I coated the ends of big chunks of wood I experimented a
little. I took an empty gallon paint can, put about 1/2 tube of clear
silicone calk in the can. I had previously tested various reducers &
found I could thin the silicone calk to a brushable solution by
thinning with lacquer thinner. So next I added lacquer thinner mixing
it in with a paint stirrer until I got a nice brushable solution. I
then used the solution to coat the ends on my wood. It worked well,
the mixture dried to a thin rubber like coating that adhered well to
the wood ends. Use a cheap brush, after you are done brushing the
mixture there is no cleaning the brush.
Hope this helps,
Frank
On 11 May 2004 14:35:15 GMT, Dave Hinz <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Thanks to both of you. Can I use parrafin wax, or should I use something
>different?
Paraffin wax works fine. It needs to be applied hot (and not onto
really cold wood either).
If you have much to do though, it's simpler to buy some end-seal wax.
This is a water-based wax emulsion and applies cold with a brush. Much
simpler, and it doesn't have the same tendency to flake off.
--
Smert' spamionam
On 10 May 2004 20:58:20 GMT, Charlie Self <[email protected]> wrote:
> Dave Hinz notes:
>
>>If Charlie says it's worthwhile for woodworking as he described,
>>that sure beats trying to use it for firewood.
> I guess it could be described as a wood that is "not as good as" and let it go
> at that. It can be used. It is seldom if ever first choice.
About basswood - I need to remove a basswood tree, about 12" in diameter
at the bottom. How should I cut & store it for carving purposes?
Dave Hinz
Dave Hinz asks:
>About basswood - I need to remove a basswood tree, about 12" in diameter
>at the bottom. How should I cut & store it for carving purposes
What kind of things do you carve or want to carve? You can either have it cut
into boards (4/4, 8/4, 12/4, etc.) or simply cut it into sections, leave the
bark on, and coat the ends of the sections with wax. Air drying is probably
going to be plenty for most small carving wood, but you may want to investigate
local kilns if you plan to do larger carvings. Air drying takes forever with
large chunks.
You can use PEG to reduce time seasoning before use, but that has a host of
other changes needed (none important, except for certain finish problems
because of the waxy nature of PEG).
If you reduce it to boards, sticker and cover as you do any wood you're drying,
letting it dry about a year per inch of thickness. You can finish in a dry
basement or attic.
Charlie Self
"In our civilization, and under our republican form of government, intelligence
is so highly honored that it is rewarded by exemption from the cares of
office." Ambrose Bierce
Thanks for all the information. I think I'll just let it recycle back
into soil.
Dave
On Mon, 10 May 2004 09:32:09 -0600, Grandpa <jsdebooATcomcast.net>
wrote:
>Cottonwoods and mosquitos have one thing in common, both are useless and
>a PITA. Terrible wood to work with, or to burn.
>
>Dave wrote:
>
>> What is cotton wood and is it good for wood working? Someone
>> identified a downed tree as cotton wood but I'm not sure if it's worth
>> the effort to saw it into boards. Any inputs would be greatly
>> appreciated. Thanks.
>> Dave
>
BUB 209 <[email protected]> schreef
> Anyone know what the burls look like?
> My neighbor has a warty one that's
> coming down.
+ + +
The burls of Populus nigra were very important in furniture production,
once upon a time.
PvR
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] (Dave) wrote:
>What is cotton wood and is it good for wood working? Someone
>identified a downed tree as cotton wood but I'm not sure if it's worth
>the effort to saw it into boards. Any inputs would be greatly
>appreciated. Thanks.
From "Wood Handbook":
"Cottonwood is used principally for lumber, veneer, pulpwood, excelsior, and
fuel. Lumber and veneer are used primarily for boxes, crates, baskets, and
pallets."
In other words, it ain't one of the world's fine furniture woods.
I wouldn't bother sawing it up. It isn't even very good firewood.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
For a copy of my TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter,
send email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
You must use your REAL email address to get a response.
I've got a cottonwood stump in my back yard about 5' diameter and 25'
high, free for the taking. South central Kentucky. Got sick of all
the fuzz in the pool ! ! !
Regards ! !
[email protected] (Charlie Self) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Dave asks:
>
> >What is cotton wood and is it good for wood working? Someone
> >identified a downed tree as cotton wood but I'm not sure if it's worth
> >the effort to saw it into boards. Any inputs would be greatly
>
> Do it. Synopsis: Cottonwood Gray-white to light brown; straight, uniform
> texture; works easily with hand tools, holds fasteners well, glues up well.
> Fine carving wood, does not hold detail as well as basswood. Tends to fuzz up
> when sanded. Stains blotch. Clear finishes and paints well. Stable after
> drying.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Charlie Self
> "In our civilization, and under our republican form of government, intelligence
> is so highly honored that it is rewarded by exemption from the cares of
> office." Ambrose Bierce
I tried to make a deal with Smokey Mountain Woodcarver Supply Near
Pigeon Forge, TN where I would swap cottonwood bark for credit for
carving tools. I actually sent Mac some bark but it wasn't thick
enough for carving. He needs bark that is at least 3" thick and it
sells for about $8.50 a pound. I have never seen any that was that
thick around here. Anyone got some thick cottonwood bark might be
able to work a deal with these guys.
http://www.woodcarvers.com
Regards,
Charlie in Kentucky
Grandpa <jsdebooATcomcast.net> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Cottonwoods and mosquitos have one thing in common, both are useless and
> a PITA. Terrible wood to work with, or to burn.
>
> Dave wrote:
>
> > What is cotton wood and is it good for wood working? Someone
> > identified a downed tree as cotton wood but I'm not sure if it's worth
> > the effort to saw it into boards. Any inputs would be greatly
> > appreciated. Thanks.
> > Dave
Cottonwoods and mosquitos have one thing in common, both are useless and
a PITA. Terrible wood to work with, or to burn.
Dave wrote:
> What is cotton wood and is it good for wood working? Someone
> identified a downed tree as cotton wood but I'm not sure if it's worth
> the effort to saw it into boards. Any inputs would be greatly
> appreciated. Thanks.
> Dave
On Mon, 10 May 2004 12:26:01 GMT, [email protected] (Dave) wrote:
>What is cotton wood and is it good for wood working? Someone
>identified a downed tree as cotton wood but I'm not sure if it's worth
>the effort to saw it into boards. Any inputs would be greatly
>appreciated. Thanks.
>Dave
I've used the bark for carving......lends itself to splitting at
various layers.....usually just as you complete carving the nose
(curses as you pick the nose or eyebrows off the floor....<g>)
Has nice grain and a deep color.Finishes nicely with Deft Satin
Usually bark from the colder climates (western states and provinces)
is really thick (5 "), so i'm told. Stuff i've worked with came from
Alberta.
Don't have much suitable in Ontario , anyone west of here that has
any info on the 5 W's of bark , feel free to email me. Haven't had a
lot of luck Googling bark collection
I presume that there might be some kind of agriculture ban bringing
it in from the states. Planning a bark collecting expediton this
summer , to keep me busy this winter.
Turnbuckle1 at (slowashell) rogers dot com
On 10 May 2004 12:41:46 -0700, [email protected] (Charlie Campney)
brought forth from the murky depths:
>I've got a cottonwood stump in my back yard about 5' diameter and 25'
>high, free for the taking. South central Kentucky. Got sick of all
>the fuzz in the pool ! ! !
If you miss the smell, plant Lombardy poplars. Their leaves
produce the same heavenly scent in the morning.
obww: The legs on my shave horse were made with limbs from the
poplars in my LoCal yard. I was -very- surprised at how hard that
stuff was after drying.
--
Save the Endangered ROAD NARROWS! -|- www.diversify.com
Ban SUVs today! -|- Full Service Websites
On Mon, 10 May 2004 12:26:01 GMT, [email protected] (Dave) wrote:
>What is cotton wood and is it good for wood working? Someone
>identified a downed tree as cotton wood but I'm not sure if it's worth
>the effort to saw it into boards. Any inputs would be greatly
>appreciated. Thanks.
>Dave
around here <arizona> cottonwoods grow in the riverbottoms, get huge
and rot out up the center, which is what usually brings them down.
they're IIRC a mamber of the aspen family. the wood isn't used
commercially here. it's one of the few really big trees in southern
arizona. it's not used commercially for anything as far as I know.