Okay gang - got me another "volunteer" project. Short history - neighbor's
husband recently passed away so I help out where I can. Widow (in her 80's)
had a senior moment the other day and forgot to push the button to open the
garage door and she backed the car into it - big time. Needs a new garage
door - this one (one of two) cannot be repaired.
Checked pricing of wood garage doors for her and they're out of her budget.
Going with steel means she'll have to replace both so they match - that puts
it out of her budget also. I can make her a replacement door for probably
under $100 in materials and it will match the second door but....
Looking at the old door, it is made from pine (finger-jointed sections no
less) with tempered board for the panel inserts. Not a high cost door to
begin with but it's lasted over 20 years and would still be standing if...
So I was thinking in order to keep the costs down why not use some (best
quality I can find) fir 2x4's to make the frame? This is a frame and
flat-panel garage door with 4 panes of glass in one of the 4 roll-up
sections. I can salvage the existing hardware and all but one section of
glass. With a couple coats of oil-based primer and a good topcoat paint,
any reason using quality studs is a bad idea? I'll mill them to rough size
and let them set for a week then cut to final size. That should show up any
that are likely to turn into pretzels.
Just two weeks ago I replaced the springs on the door and repaired the
garage door opener (bad solder joint due to vibration). She could now
manually open the door in case of a power failure (we've had a few recently)
and the opener was once again working as it should.... and now this minor
problem...;-)
Anyone every built a 4 section, roll-up garage door (8'w x 7'h) - any advice
appreciated.
Thanks,
Bob S.
Morris,
Just what I was hoping to here - using construction grade stock worked out
okay. I have several sets of rail, stile and raised panel cutters already
but thanks for the reference. Good idea on using the exterior grade ply
instead of the hardboard and using dowels - inexpensive, strong and I have
the tools.
Thanks for the input,
Bob S.
> Last year I replaced the bottom section of a 9' x 7' garage door.
> I bought a matched pair of router bits from MLCS (#8838), a
> number of 2"x4"x10' construction grade boards, and a sheet of
> 1/4" exterior plywood (to replace the 20-year old hardboard).
>
> The only things I did different from the original were to use the
> plywood and to dowel all joints. The new section will probably
> outlast me.
>
> You may want to get a new door bottom seal. The rubber of mine
> was fairly well deteriorated (but I used it anyway).
>
> It isn't a difficult job.
>
> --
> Morris Dovey
> DeSoto, Iowa USA
>
John,
Neither her late husbands family or any of her relatives live in this
state - the neighborhood is her family now. She realizes that she will most
likely have to sell the house and move but until that day comes - we'll help
where we can.
Bob S.
"John Grossbohlin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Bob" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Okay gang - got me another "volunteer" project. Short history -
> neighbor's
> > husband recently passed away so I help out where I can. Widow (in her
> 80's)
> > had a senior moment the other day and forgot to push the button to open
> the
> > garage door and she backed the car into it - big time. Needs a new
garage
> > door - this one (one of two) cannot be repaired.
>
> We had a recent death on my wife's side of the family... a genuinely
lovely
> woman who was an 88 year old widow and who was still driving. The last
five
> years or so she was a hazard behind the wheel and didn't know it... an
> "unguided missile." Given your neighbor's senior moment you might be doing
> her a bigger favor by having a family member intervene and stop her from
> driving. The lesser favor would be to repair her garage door. I know this
is
> a tough call...
>
> John
>
>
"Bob" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Okay gang - got me another "volunteer" project. Short history -
neighbor's
> husband recently passed away so I help out where I can. Widow (in her
80's)
> had a senior moment the other day and forgot to push the button to open
the
> garage door and she backed the car into it - big time. Needs a new garage
> door - this one (one of two) cannot be repaired.
We had a recent death on my wife's side of the family... a genuinely lovely
woman who was an 88 year old widow and who was still driving. The last five
years or so she was a hazard behind the wheel and didn't know it... an
"unguided missile." Given your neighbor's senior moment you might be doing
her a bigger favor by having a family member intervene and stop her from
driving. The lesser favor would be to repair her garage door. I know this is
a tough call...
John
Bob wrote:
> Okay gang - got me another "volunteer" project. Short history -
> neighbor's
> husband recently passed away so I help out where I can. Widow (in her
> 80's) had a senior moment the other day and forgot to push the button to
> open the
> garage door and she backed the car into it - big time. Needs a new garage
> door - this one (one of two) cannot be repaired.
>
> Checked pricing of wood garage doors for her and they're out of her
> budget. Going with steel means she'll have to replace both so they match -
> that puts
> it out of her budget also. I can make her a replacement door for probably
> under $100 in materials and it will match the second door but....
>
> Looking at the old door, it is made from pine (finger-jointed sections no
> less) with tempered board for the panel inserts. Not a high cost door to
> begin with but it's lasted over 20 years and would still be standing if...
>
> So I was thinking in order to keep the costs down why not use some (best
> quality I can find) fir 2x4's to make the frame? This is a frame and
> flat-panel garage door with 4 panes of glass in one of the 4 roll-up
> sections. I can salvage the existing hardware and all but one section of
> glass. With a couple coats of oil-based primer and a good topcoat paint,
> any reason using quality studs is a bad idea? I'll mill them to rough size
> and let them set for a week then cut to final size. That should show up
> any that are likely to turn into pretzels.
>
> Just two weeks ago I replaced the springs on the door and repaired the
> garage door opener (bad solder joint due to vibration). She could now
> manually open the door in case of a power failure (we've had a few
> recently)
> and the opener was once again working as it should.... and now this minor
> problem...;-)
>
> Anyone every built a 4 section, roll-up garage door (8'w x 7'h) - any
> advice appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob S.
that shouldn't be too bad since you have a pattern to start with. Maybe use
pine to be the same as the original in weight just to be extra safe.
"John Grossbohlin" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> "Bob" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Okay gang - got me another "volunteer" project. Short history -
> neighbor's
> > husband recently passed away so I help out where I can. Widow (in her
> 80's)
> > had a senior moment the other day and forgot to push the button to open
> the
> > garage door and she backed the car into it - big time. Needs a new garage
> > door - this one (one of two) cannot be repaired.
>
> We had a recent death on my wife's side of the family... a genuinely lovely
> woman who was an 88 year old widow and who was still driving. The last five
> years or so she was a hazard behind the wheel and didn't know it... an
> "unguided missile." Given your neighbor's senior moment you might be doing
> her a bigger favor by having a family member intervene and stop her from
> driving. The lesser favor would be to repair her garage door. I know this is
> a tough call...
>
> John
Not really a tough call in my opinion. I was nearly killed by an
elderly woman running a stop sign. I spent a 2 weeks in the hospital
and have chronic problems from my injuries.
I think that after 65 we should all be drive-tested yearly.
-Mike
Bob wrote:
> Anyone every built a 4 section, roll-up garage door (8'w x 7'h) - any advice
> appreciated.
Last year I replaced the bottom section of a 9' x 7' garage door.
I bought a matched pair of router bits from MLCS (#8838), a
number of 2"x4"x10' construction grade boards, and a sheet of
1/4" exterior plywood (to replace the 20-year old hardboard).
The only things I did different from the original were to use the
plywood and to dowel all joints. The new section will probably
outlast me.
You may want to get a new door bottom seal. The rubber of mine
was fairly well deteriorated (but I used it anyway).
It isn't a difficult job.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto, Iowa USA
John Grossbohlin wrote:
>
> "Bob" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Okay gang - got me another "volunteer" project. Short history -
> neighbor's
>> husband recently passed away so I help out where I can. Widow (in her
> 80's)
>> had a senior moment the other day and forgot to push the button to open
> the
>> garage door and she backed the car into it - big time. Needs a new
>> garage door - this one (one of two) cannot be repaired.
>
> We had a recent death on my wife's side of the family... a genuinely
> lovely woman who was an 88 year old widow and who was still driving. The
> last five years or so she was a hazard behind the wheel and didn't know
> it... an "unguided missile." Given your neighbor's senior moment you might
> be doing her a bigger favor by having a family member intervene and stop
> her from driving. The lesser favor would be to repair her garage door. I
> know this is a tough call...
It's not necessarily a "senior moment". The neighbor a couple of houses
down drove through her garage door one morning, and she was in her 30s.
> John
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
John,
That's a good suggestion and I would use it if I was using stock that was
kiln dried to 8% or less. I'm afraid that the best I'll probably get is
about 17% mc (if I'm lucky) which will typically stabilize to around 12% for
this area. With that kind of moisture content, I suspect the sections of
the doors to bow a bit with weather changes and a shiplap joint may end up
binding. As it is, I'll have to store the stock in my basement for a week or
two in order to get the mc down using a dehumidifier.
Appreciate your time and thoughts,
Bob S.
"John" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Should work fine. Many folks ship lap the intersecting edges for
> weather tightness - should be able to do that with a router table
> before assembly. Primer and paint and good maintenance and it should
> last long enough
>
> John
Can't disagree and that's from a 75er. BIL had a driving test at 75
and I had written test, both in CALIF. See almost daily younger ones
making U turns in middle of the block that are both stupid and illegal
not to mention cell phones while driving, or is that driving while
cell talking?!
On 17 Jun 2004 08:04:23 -0700, [email protected] (Mike Reed)
wrote:
>"John Grossbohlin" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>> "Bob" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> > Okay gang - got me another "volunteer" project. Short history -
>> neighbor's
>> > husband recently passed away so I help out where I can. Widow (in her
>> 80's)
>> > had a senior moment the other day and forgot to push the button to open
>> the
>> > garage door and she backed the car into it - big time. Needs a new garage
>> > door - this one (one of two) cannot be repaired.
>>
>> We had a recent death on my wife's side of the family... a genuinely lovely
>> woman who was an 88 year old widow and who was still driving. The last five
>> years or so she was a hazard behind the wheel and didn't know it... an
>> "unguided missile." Given your neighbor's senior moment you might be doing
>> her a bigger favor by having a family member intervene and stop her from
>> driving. The lesser favor would be to repair her garage door. I know this is
>> a tough call...
>>
>> John
>
>Not really a tough call in my opinion. I was nearly killed by an
>elderly woman running a stop sign. I spent a 2 weeks in the hospital
>and have chronic problems from my injuries.
>
>I think that after 65 we should all be drive-tested yearly.
>
>-Mike
Good point since I just installed new springs on the door which were rated
for 130lb. Had the old door adjusted so it could be opened or closed with
one finger so if I build it with similar materials it should work just as
well.
Bob S.
> that shouldn't be too bad since you have a pattern to start with. Maybe
use
> pine to be the same as the original in weight just to be extra safe.
Maybe someone in alt.home.repair has.
On Wed, 16 Jun 2004 16:24:50 GMT, "Bob" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Okay gang - got me another "volunteer" project. Short history - neighbor's
>husband recently passed away so I help out where I can. Widow (in her 80's)
>had a senior moment the other day and forgot to push the button to open the
>garage door and she backed the car into it - big time. Needs a new garage
>door - this one (one of two) cannot be repaired.
>
>Checked pricing of wood garage doors for her and they're out of her budget.
>Going with steel means she'll have to replace both so they match - that puts
>it out of her budget also. I can make her a replacement door for probably
>under $100 in materials and it will match the second door but....
>
>Looking at the old door, it is made from pine (finger-jointed sections no
>less) with tempered board for the panel inserts. Not a high cost door to
>begin with but it's lasted over 20 years and would still be standing if...
>
>So I was thinking in order to keep the costs down why not use some (best
>quality I can find) fir 2x4's to make the frame? This is a frame and
>flat-panel garage door with 4 panes of glass in one of the 4 roll-up
>sections. I can salvage the existing hardware and all but one section of
>glass. With a couple coats of oil-based primer and a good topcoat paint,
>any reason using quality studs is a bad idea? I'll mill them to rough size
>and let them set for a week then cut to final size. That should show up any
>that are likely to turn into pretzels.
>
>Just two weeks ago I replaced the springs on the door and repaired the
>garage door opener (bad solder joint due to vibration). She could now
>manually open the door in case of a power failure (we've had a few recently)
>and the opener was once again working as it should.... and now this minor
>problem...;-)
>
>Anyone every built a 4 section, roll-up garage door (8'w x 7'h) - any advice
>appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Bob S.
>
Should work fine. Many folks ship lap the intersecting edges for
weather tightness - should be able to do that with a router table
before assembly. Primer and paint and good maintenance and it should
last long enough
John
On Wed, 16 Jun 2004 16:24:50 GMT, "Bob" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Okay gang - got me another "volunteer" project. Short history - neighbor's
>husband recently passed away so I help out where I can. Widow (in her 80's)
>had a senior moment the other day and forgot to push the button to open the
>garage door and she backed the car into it - big time. Needs a new garage
>door - this one (one of two) cannot be repaired.
>
>Checked pricing of wood garage doors for her and they're out of her budget.
>Going with steel means she'll have to replace both so they match - that puts
>it out of her budget also. I can make her a replacement door for probably
>under $100 in materials and it will match the second door but....
>
>Looking at the old door, it is made from pine (finger-jointed sections no
>less) with tempered board for the panel inserts. Not a high cost door to
>begin with but it's lasted over 20 years and would still be standing if...
>
>So I was thinking in order to keep the costs down why not use some (best
>quality I can find) fir 2x4's to make the frame? This is a frame and
>flat-panel garage door with 4 panes of glass in one of the 4 roll-up
>sections. I can salvage the existing hardware and all but one section of
>glass. With a couple coats of oil-based primer and a good topcoat paint,
>any reason using quality studs is a bad idea? I'll mill them to rough size
>and let them set for a week then cut to final size. That should show up any
>that are likely to turn into pretzels.
>
>Just two weeks ago I replaced the springs on the door and repaired the
>garage door opener (bad solder joint due to vibration). She could now
>manually open the door in case of a power failure (we've had a few recently)
>and the opener was once again working as it should.... and now this minor
>problem...;-)
>
>Anyone every built a 4 section, roll-up garage door (8'w x 7'h) - any advice
>appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Bob S.
>