Rail/stile router bits for full sized door

In rec.woodworking
Steve Manes <[email protected]> wrote:

>I need to build several five-panel red oak interior doors and need to
>find a larger set of matched rail/stile bits than I've currently got
>for cabinet doors. The bits are for the panels in the 6/4 doors; the
>rails and stiles will be joined with mortise and tenon joints.
>
>I saw a set of these bits somewhere on the web last year but I can't
>recall where. Anybody know where I might find something like this?

routerbits.com
grizzly.com
pricecutter.com

Kim Whitmyre wrote:

>
>Ya, you just use a gouge as close as you can get to the radius of your
>profile, if it's got a curve to it, or a chisel if it's straight.
>
>
I was just going to have a quarter round in there. Flat would be easy
but if I stuck a moulding in there after construction, I don't know if
it would rally be durable enough. And I'm building it for myself.

>
>You actually want to stop the tenons at least a 1/4" before going right
>through, as well as using two tenons on the bottom rail. . .You would be
>exposing lots of end grain running the rails long, not to mention flying
>in the face of tradition! ;~)
>
>
Well if it's tradition.....

John

I can never remember the stick bit and cope and all that ,I suppose that
there is no logical reason for the names .

Several years ago I bought a set of cutters from grizzleguts and a raised
panel cutter, just added it into the cost of a job. At the time I thought
that they were bloody expensive but since have never regretted the purchase.

I have done many jobs with those cutters including several paneled rooms
including doors [ 1 3/8 interior doors with raised panels boths sides] . The
raised panel cutter has a small quarter round right where the chamfer meets
the field .my stile and rail cutters also feature a matching quarter round.
both the cope and stick [whatever that means] cutters and the raised panel
cutter are standard grizzleguts parts and aside from a chip or two in the
carbide they work fine .

A few pictures are of my crappy web site of a room I did using these cutters
.......mjh


"Steve Manes" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I need to build several five-panel red oak interior doors and need to
> find a larger set of matched rail/stile bits than I've currently got
> for cabinet doors. The bits are for the panels in the 6/4 doors; the
> rails and stiles will be joined with mortise and tenon joints.
>
> I saw a set of these bits somewhere on the web last year but I can't
> recall where. Anybody know where I might find something like this?
>
> ------------------------------------------=o&>o----
> Steve Manes, Brooklyn, USA
> www.magpie.com

In article <pn0%[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> If you're going to "cope and stick" doors, how will you handle the
> tennons? What size will they be?

Unfortunately, the Fine Woodworking article by Joseph Beals is no longer
in print, as it was an excellent primer on building doors without using
any cope and stick bits. Slip tenons, blind dadoed slots for the panels,
and hand-coped profiles. I have built 7 or so doors in this fashion, and
can vouch for its practicality.

You do the mortises in all pieces first, cut whatever profile, ogee or
half-round, etc, make your slip tenons sized to your mortise, and then
do the cope/stick work. Which means removing the profile on the stiles
where the rails will go, and then using a gouge to cope the profile on
the rails to the stiles. . .

Kim

> >then using a gouge to cope the profile on
> >the rails to the stiles. . .

> Gee, that's hard work isn't it?
>
> I see in books such as Loonie Birds ( I think) using a stub spindle and
> some shaper cutter that can buzz it out.
> But I never see these things for sale. ?

I use a router to remove the profile (the sticking part of cope and
stick) on the stiles where the rails go.
>
> Now that I think about it, maybe a little gouge work wouldn't hurt.

Ya, you just use a gouge as close as you can get to the radius of your
profile, if it's got a curve to it, or a chisel if it's straight.
>
> I am considering doing new front doors for my house. And I want those
> tennons to go right through. Like in days of old. Otherwise it seems to
> me things would be stronger if the stiles were not full hieght but
> rather the top and bottom rails were full width instead.

You actually want to stop the tenons at least a 1/4" before going right
through, as well as using two tenons on the bottom rail. . .You would be
exposing lots of end grain running the rails long, not to mention flying
in the face of tradition! ;~)

Kim

Web page ....http://members.tripod.com/mikehide2/ Sorry about that mjh


"Mike Hide" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:AaA0c.91409$4o.116561@attbi_s52...
> I can never remember the stick bit and cope and all that ,I suppose that
> there is no logical reason for the names .
>
> Several years ago I bought a set of cutters from grizzleguts and a raised
> panel cutter, just added it into the cost of a job. At the time I thought
> that they were bloody expensive but since have never regretted the
purchase.
>
> I have done many jobs with those cutters including several paneled rooms
> including doors [ 1 3/8 interior doors with raised panels boths sides] .
The
> raised panel cutter has a small quarter round right where the chamfer
meets
> the field .my stile and rail cutters also feature a matching quarter
round.
> both the cope and stick [whatever that means] cutters and the raised panel
> cutter are standard grizzleguts parts and aside from a chip or two in the
> carbide they work fine .
>
> A few pictures are of my crappy web site of a room I did using these
cutters
> .......mjh
>
>
> "Steve Manes" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I need to build several five-panel red oak interior doors and need to
> > find a larger set of matched rail/stile bits than I've currently got
> > for cabinet doors. The bits are for the panels in the 6/4 doors; the
> > rails and stiles will be joined with mortise and tenon joints.
> >
> > I saw a set of these bits somewhere on the web last year but I can't
> > recall where. Anybody know where I might find something like this?
> >
> > ------------------------------------------=o&>o----
> > Steve Manes, Brooklyn, USA
> > www.magpie.com
>

Kim Whitmyre wrote:

>then using a gouge to cope the profile on
>the rails to the stiles. . .
>



Gee, that's hard work isn't it?

I see in books such as Loonie Birds ( I think) using a stub spindle and
some shaper cutter that can buzz it out.
But I never see these things for sale. ???

Now that I think about it, maybe a little gouge work wouldn't hurt.

I am considering doing new front doors for my house. And I want those
tennons to go right through. Like in days of old. Otherwise it seems to
me things would be stronger if the stiles were not full hieght but
rather the top and bottom rails were full width instead.

John

The "about me" and "my pets" brings up a black screen on my system
(Mozilla, Windows 2K). Is it me or you?

Renata

On Mon, 01 Mar 2004 05:56:09 GMT, "Mike Hide" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>http://members.tripod.com/mikehide2/

On Mon, 01 Mar 2004 05:56:09 GMT, "Mike Hide" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>http://members.tripod.com/mikehide2/

Beautiful work, Mike.

------------------------------------------=o&>o----
Steve Manes, Brooklyn, USA
www.magpie.com

If you're going to "cope and stick" doors, how will you handle the
tennons? What size will they be?

John

Steve Manes wrote:

>I need to build several five-panel red oak interior doors and need to
>find a larger set of matched rail/stile bits than I've currently got
>for cabinet doors. The bits are for the panels in the 6/4 doors; the
>rails and stiles will be joined with mortise and tenon joints.
>
>I saw a set of these bits somewhere on the web last year but I can't
>recall where. Anybody know where I might find something like this?
>
>------------------------------------------=o&>o----
>Steve Manes, Brooklyn, USA
>www.magpie.com
>
>