Here's the situation - I laid 32 sq. ft. of 12" x 12" parquet flooring tiles
this weekend. Mfgr's instruction stated it needed to be glued (I used the
appropriate glue and trowel). It also stated to leave a 1/4" gap around the
walls which I did for expansion. Don't understand how it would expand if it
was glued down - but I did it anyway. I laid this same floor in my master
bedroom 4 weeks ago and no problems. It is tongue and grooved on all sides.
I woke up this morning and have a ridge down the middle of the floor which
buckled and raised almost an inch. I'm thinking the wood expanded alright
. . . now how to deal with it. My first thought since I can stand on it and
it lays down okay was to make an attempt to inject glue into the bottom
somehow and weight it down. However, if it really is expansion, it will
happen again somewhere else. What do you think? Take my circular saw set
at a very low depth and make a relief and then glue back down? Need some
suggestions from my experienced wreckers.
Thanks
Jums
Not exactly a fix for your problem but...
I had set down about 1200 feet of laminate flooring over slab and had
one area where the slab was slightly low. The floor was springy there
and noticeable when you stepped on it. Looking for an easy cure that did
not involve cutting, I decided to drill a 1/4" hole through the flooring
at the low spot. I then "injected" a tube of liquid nails into this hole
and plugged the hole with a plug cut from an identical scrap piece of
flooring. I weighted the surface with some bricks overnight and now it
is flat and happy, the hole plug matches great!
It may be one way to consider gluing down your ridge without cutting but
you may need a series of holes along the seam. I think if you cut a
relief kerf the flooring will always have a gap or uneven ridge at the
cut line since the tongue and groove are gone.
$0.02
-Bruce
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The 1/4" is still there . . . each 12" square is glued in place. They won't
move but it's buckling in the middle. The edges are flat as is most of the
floor.
Jums
"Silvan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> It's buckling in the middle, but how about at the edges? Can you still
see
> them? Has that quarter inch been eaten up, and is the wood jammed right
up
> against the walls now?
>
> My own thought, if the scenario described above were the case, would be to
> trim around the perimeter of the floor. Not sure how I'd do that. Maybe
> take apart my circular saw and rig up a new shoe thingie that would let me
> get closer to what I was cutting, while still allowing me to dial a depth
> of cut a trifle shallow, so the rest could be broken off with a chisel.
>
> I could be completely full of crap though, Jums. I'm just thinking out
> loud.
>
> --
> Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
> Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
> Confirmed post number: 17492 Approximate word count: 524760
> http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
>
I was being very careful about the glue Dave since it was finished on one
side and bare on the back. It's a possibility . . . . I let the tiles sit
in the house in opened packages for 4 days prior to installation.
Jim
"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> could you have used way too much glue, thereby introducing a ton of
> moisture to the wood? If it happened overnight, sounds like the most
> likely culprit.
>
> also, did you acclimate the wood to your house before laying it?
could you have used way too much glue, thereby introducing a ton of
moisture to the wood? If it happened overnight, sounds like the most
likely culprit.
also, did you acclimate the wood to your house before laying it?
dave
Jim Mc Namara wrote:
> Here's the situation - I laid 32 sq. ft. of 12" x 12" parquet flooring tiles
> this weekend. Mfgr's instruction stated it needed to be glued (I used the
> appropriate glue and trowel). It also stated to leave a 1/4" gap around the
> walls which I did for expansion. Don't understand how it would expand if it
> was glued down - but I did it anyway. I laid this same floor in my master
> bedroom 4 weeks ago and no problems. It is tongue and grooved on all sides.
> I woke up this morning and have a ridge down the middle of the floor which
> buckled and raised almost an inch. I'm thinking the wood expanded alright
> . . . now how to deal with it. My first thought since I can stand on it and
> it lays down okay was to make an attempt to inject glue into the bottom
> somehow and weight it down. However, if it really is expansion, it will
> happen again somewhere else. What do you think? Take my circular saw set
> at a very low depth and make a relief and then glue back down? Need some
> suggestions from my experienced wreckers.
>
> Thanks
>
> Jums
>
>
>
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Jim, is the 32 square feet in your humid bathroom?
This is in my living room Leon. Dry - all the right conditions. I think
I'm going to drill some small holes and fill with adhesive and apply
overnight pressure to the areas. Yup - there are now 3 places. What a PIA!
The bedroom never did this.
Jim
"Jim Mc Namara" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
...Take my circular saw set
> at a very low depth and make a relief and then glue back down?
The very thought of a circular saw blade encountering flooring advesive
makes my skin crawl....
-- Ernie
I appreciate your information, but now that all that has been said and done,
do you have any recommendations for fixing what has already taken place?
Jim
"Not Telling" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have come accross this myself. In a nutshell of what not to do. First
> neever ever lay wood flooring on a bare slab. Bare slab includes your
> primer. What needs first is a low acid wash on the slab, next slab sealer
> made for sealing slab water proof sealer from home depot is NOT a slab
> sealer. Once it has cured we next lay down a pre-adhesive conditioner,
once
> set we next begin lay the wood flooring. The most common mistakes as
> mentioned in another thread watch the amount of glue you use a little goes
a
> long way. Never ever apply glue sides of wood flooring when applied onto
a
> slab only on the bottom. You will evetually end up with cracks and splits
> over time or as you have experienced raising of wood plank(s). Which is
> caused by way to much mositure. Which leads to the this, before laying
wood
> flooring on conrete/slab you MUST take a mositure reading anything above
14
> per cent you are going to be asking for trouble at a later time. Be aware
> this should be taken a the wettest season of where you live and not the
> middle of summer. Last recommendation NEVER EVER buy installation
materials
> from a consumer/retail store as this products are inferior in grade and
> quaility. Spending big money on flooring and they penny pinching on the
> install materails is where if not all of my out of season money is made.
>
>
I was considering drilling the holes and injecting the adhesive, Bruce
rather than cutting the T & G out. I don't know if the missing grooves
would make much of a difference since the glue would then hold it all in
place, but making the cut could be tricky.
I finally got a call through to the manufacturer who recommended
removing the tile and starting over to replace the tiles. This is in the
middle of the floor! No way - going back to woodworking basics and it looks
like the drill and inject method will be implemented (unless there are any
other ideas floating around.)
Thanks
Jim
"Bruce Rowen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Not exactly a fix for your problem but...
>
> I had set down about 1200 feet of laminate flooring over slab and had
> one area where the slab was slightly low. The floor was springy there
> and noticeable when you stepped on it. Looking for an easy cure that did
> not involve cutting, I decided to drill a 1/4" hole through the flooring
> at the low spot. I then "injected" a tube of liquid nails into this hole
> and plugged the hole with a plug cut from an identical scrap piece of
> flooring. I weighted the surface with some bricks overnight and now it
> is flat and happy, the hole plug matches great!
>
> It may be one way to consider gluing down your ridge without cutting but
> you may need a series of holes along the seam. I think if you cut a
> relief kerf the flooring will always have a gap or uneven ridge at the
> cut line since the tongue and groove are gone.
>
> $0.02
>
> -Bruce
>
>
> -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
> http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
> -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----
did you try their customer service number? Their tech support may have
heard of your problem many times before...
dave
Jim Mc Namara wrote:
> Yup - concrete and I primed it as per the recommendations. I'm thinking if
> I cut a kerf down the seam - I should be able to relieve the stress, take a
> syringe and drop a little adhesive down there and apply some weight to hold
> it flat. Like I said, I installed the same stuff in the master bedroom and
> no problems at all. This has me baffled. I'm going to wait on my info from
> anyone else who has some ideas. Thanks
>
> Jim
>
> "Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Jim,
>>
>>I've used up my harebrained ideas, then! I'm gonna be watching this
>>thread to see if someone has the solution.
>>
>>oh, what's the substrate, a slab?
>>
>>dave
>>
>>Jim Mc Namara wrote:
>>
>>
>>>I was being very careful about the glue Dave since it was finished on
>
> one
>
>>>side and bare on the back. It's a possibility . . . . I let the tiles
>
> sit
>
>>>in the house in opened packages for 4 days prior to installation.
>>>
>>>Jim
>>>
>>>"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>>
>>>>could you have used way too much glue, thereby introducing a ton of
>>>>moisture to the wood? If it happened overnight, sounds like the most
>>>>likely culprit.
>>>>
>>>>also, did you acclimate the wood to your house before laying it?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
>
Yup - concrete and I primed it as per the recommendations. I'm thinking if
I cut a kerf down the seam - I should be able to relieve the stress, take a
syringe and drop a little adhesive down there and apply some weight to hold
it flat. Like I said, I installed the same stuff in the master bedroom and
no problems at all. This has me baffled. I'm going to wait on my info from
anyone else who has some ideas. Thanks
Jim
"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Jim,
>
> I've used up my harebrained ideas, then! I'm gonna be watching this
> thread to see if someone has the solution.
>
> oh, what's the substrate, a slab?
>
> dave
>
> Jim Mc Namara wrote:
>
> > I was being very careful about the glue Dave since it was finished on
one
> > side and bare on the back. It's a possibility . . . . I let the tiles
sit
> > in the house in opened packages for 4 days prior to installation.
> >
> > Jim
> >
> > "Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >
> >>could you have used way too much glue, thereby introducing a ton of
> >>moisture to the wood? If it happened overnight, sounds like the most
> >>likely culprit.
> >>
> >>also, did you acclimate the wood to your house before laying it?
> >
> >
> >
>
West coast number - goota wait another hour or so.
"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> did you try their customer service number? Their tech support may have
> heard of your problem many times before...
>
> dave
>