Radial arm saw vs. table saw. Tools for cabinetry?

I would keep the RA saw untill you can loosen up your budget a bit, $500+.
Greg

"Dooler" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a Craftsman 10" radial arm saw (inherited from father) that is
> 25+ years old. Saw is good condition. Since most of what I want to
> do is furniture/cabinet work and I have a miter saw and hand power
> saw, am looking at possibly selling the radial and getting a ~$200
> table saw.
>
> Also, what tools are recommended from someone starting out. I used to
> do alot of woodworking years ago in school, but we had all the high
> power/industrial tools (loved the $80,000 planner they had). Now,
> don't have any tools except for miter, hand saw, and drill. I am
> wanting to start making furniture, with first being entertainment
> center.
>
> Any recommendations or ideas would greatly be appreciated.
> - Clayton

I have a 29 year old Craftmans RA that I am using. I used it to build
my own kitchen cabinets, without any problems. Ripped all of the
shelving and face frames, including oak trim for all of the shelves.

There are time that I would like to have a TS but don't want to give
the space in my garage. Have a drill press, band saw, and jointer and
have made it without a TS. But I only work as a hobby.

If I were to try and make more of woodworking than a hobby that I would
like to have one.

Al

Forget the cheap table saw, your better off with handheld circular saw
than that junk. I do not care for a radial arm saw myself, but I have
suggestions that may help.Set the saw up so it is slightly out of level
from front to back. This will make the saw carriage slide away from
you, this is a safety matter. Remove fence, add 3/8"x 3/4"x2" spacer
blocks to the table. Put the blocks about 6" on center and replace
fence. Now you created a space for sawdust to go, you won't get build
up of dust along fence.
Use saw for crosscuts only.I know you have ability to rip but it is
dangerous.Rip with a skilsaw until you have the money to buy a real
saw.If you need to make miters or angled cuts, make jigs for these
angles and leave the saw set up at 90=B0.Check often that your blade is
square to the fence, make any necessary adjustments if needed.Use a
blade that is correct for a radial arm saw.

mike

On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 05:00:43 GMT, Dooler <[email protected]> wrote:

>Wanted to thank everyone for great replys. Looks like the
>recommendation is to keep the RAS. In a way, I prefer the RAS (once I
>learn how to use it to it's full potential, other than cutting 2x4's)

Potential: Repeat cuts, compound cuts, panel doors, .....tons more.

Lack of potential: I saw my neighbour using his to rip long pieces,
with one arm in front of the saw, and one that had to slip behind to
finish the cut. I gave him a table saw I had lying around [I had
three more, one of which went to my son-in-law] , plus an old carbon
tipped blade, plus a 3/4 HP motor from a nearby yard sale for $14.
He's now making money, and still has both hands, and hasn't looked
back.

Frank wrote:
>
...
> ...Ripping with the RAS is one of the most intim(id)ating
> power tool operations I ever experienced. ...
< ... but ripping even one sheet of
> wood on the RAS scares the bee gees out of me.

I've heard and read this a lot...why?

For years while saving for the PM 66 I used the RAS for everything and,
in fact, before the jointer had it set up to use the shaping head for
that as well. I've ripped a <ton> of material w/ nary a problem. All
it takes (like a TS) is a long table to support the work, adjusting the
hold down properly and using a push stick for narrow stock. I've never
felt it was any more "scary" than the TS.

Now that I have the TS, jointer, spindle shaper, et al., the RAS is
relegated mostly to cutoff work, but I would still miss it if it were
gone entirely.

Patriarch wrote:
>
...
> Mid range for a table saw is up about $1000 from there. Your RAS will do
> just fine for some time. You may never decide that you need to spend the
> bigger money.
...

Well, upper mid-range for the casual basement/garage shop. Pretty good
contractor saws are available for less than that. FWW had a review not
too many issues ago...

Guess who wrote:
...
> Lack of potential: I saw my neighbour using his to rip long pieces,
> with one arm in front of the saw, and one that had to slip behind to
> finish the cut. ...

Now that <is> scary... :(

But, not the saw's fault the user wasn't set up right. I've seen a lot
of dumb things on TS setups, too...

Now, I'll not say it's the first choice to rip w/ the RAS if one has an
alternative, but as I noted in previous post, I've done it a lot when I
didn't have an alternative and if set up properly I think it's no more
dangerous than many other operations...

"Bob G." wrote:
...
> Well I still have ...and use... my 30+ year old Craftsman RAS ...but I
> will also admit that the darn thing has not moved off a 90 degree cut
> in the last 20 years...but I do have a Jig that allows me to cut
> perfect 45 degree cuts without moving the arm ...
>
> That said... I am really not one to be intimidated...but I do have
> plenty of reservations about ripping on "MY" RAS... just not as
> comfortable as using a table saw...
>
> As for the OP... I too suggest he keep the RAS (hell I wish I had a
> lot more "stuff" that belonged to my dad...) I have plenty BUT now
> that he is dead everything I see in my shop that once belonged to him
> just makes my day a little more enjoyable...nothing like taking a few
> seconds to remember him... ..................... ok I just took
> those seconds...

Pretty much the same for me <now> as well although for some really long
material the RAS is set up in a longer bench than the room the table saw
is in will handle w/o hitting a wall so it's easier to use it than to
move the TS---back then, I didn't <have> a TS... :(

I'm back on the family farm and having all of Dad's and much of
Granddad's "stuff" is, as you say, a treasured benefit...Dad wasn't very
much on keeping old stuff for sentimental reasons, though, so I keep
finding uses for something I remembered as a kid and discover it isn't
around (the old wall-mounted hand crank drill press is one specific
item). Of course, the old '28 Chevy truck I learned to drive in, the
old Cat 22 or the AC D17 would be nice to still have, too... :)

Also, OP probably won't get much for the RAS if he tries to sell it
anyway...

sandman wrote:
>
...
> I absolutely hate Radial Arm Saws. The word ARM is there for a reason.
> They're wobbly, nasty, mean, unforgiving, evil, lethal, ugly, useless.
> dangerous pieces of ...

Gee, why don't you tell us what you <really> think???? :)

Different strokes...

They have their uses although I'll grant that most inexpensive ones are
not very good (but, then again, a lot of inexpensive things aren't all
that good, come to think of it).

On major function has been absorbed by the advent of the larger capacity
chop saws although there's still nothing better for roughing out larger
dimension rough stock assuming you've got the saw that will handle it,
of course...I was lucky that the one I happened to find cheap when I got
my first woodworking tool was, in fact, such a beast.

GregP wrote:
...
> ... All of this put down of cheap gear seems
> to have more to do with something other than utility.

There's a difference between "cheap" and "inexpensive" and there's also
a difference in objectives of the owner/user, plus the personal
preference of some for things that work well as opposed to "get by"...if
you're satisfied w/ what you got, fine...I've found that every time I've
tried to cut corners on a tool I end up being so dissatisfied that it
costs me more in the long run because I'm out the initial expense <plus>
the expense of getting the better tool anyway.

On a RAS in particular, and what I was thinking of when writing the
previous post, was that on many of the less expensive I've seen the
repeatability of the arm position is poor at best and the arm is not
rigid enough to stand up to heavy use. I just detest having to fiddle
around to get the precise angle I want every time...w/ the Original Saw
Company radial, the blocks are set and reproducible <every> time...

GregP wrote:
...
> [I also wonder about the "cheap" aspect when looking
> back. For instance, I bought a "cheap" Sears router
> 25 years ago: it was somewhere near the middle of
> the Craftsman line, somewhere in the $45 - $50 range.
> It didn't do badly but I did have to constantly readjust
> cutter depth and those adjustments were a designed-
> in pita. About a month ago I bought one of those
> new PC 2.25 hp units. It cost me $190. My guess is
> that with inflation, the two are pretty comparable in cost.
> And while the PC is somewhat more powerful and
> reasonably smooth, the Sears always had enough
> power to do what I wanted and it actually vibrates less
> and has similar heft to it. There's no doubt that the PC
> will be easier to use and make my time more efficient,
> but I don't see sufficient difference to call one a Yugo
> and the other a BMW.

That's probably not too bad a comparison as it was about 25 years ago is
about the time Sears really started the trend to "cheapening up" the
Craftsman line...I, too, have a Craftsman router of slightly earlier
vintage and still use it/like it for smaller work as it is lighter than
the others. But, I don't think there's a single one bearing the
Craftsman brand today that's built as well as it was...

This is, of course, a never-ending debate... :)

On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 13:48:49 -0600, Duane Bozarth
<[email protected]> wrote:

>
>They have their uses although I'll grant that most inexpensive ones are
>not very good (but, then again, a lot of inexpensive things aren't all
>that good, come to think of it).

Yeah, but they can be useful. I had a Sears RAS that I used
to replicate window and door moldings in the Victorian we
owned (some of the original stuff was pretty well shot), make
some furniture, use for a lot of carpentry stuff, etc. And a Sears
circular saw and drill were good enough to build a deck,
several arbors, fences, etc. These tools took a heck of a
beating, were drowned once in a flooded basement, and
have kept working. All of this put down of cheap gear seems
to have more to do with something other than utility.

On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 00:37:57 GMT, Dooler <[email protected]> wrote:

>I have a Craftsman 10" radial arm saw (inherited from father) that is
>25+ years old. Saw is good condition. Since most of what I want to
>do is furniture/cabinet work and I have a miter saw and hand power
>saw, am looking at possibly selling the radial and getting a ~$200
>table saw.
>
>Also, what tools are recommended from someone starting out. I used to
>do alot of woodworking years ago in school, but we had all the high
>power/industrial tools (loved the $80,000 planner they had). Now,
>don't have any tools except for miter, hand saw, and drill. I am
>wanting to start making furniture, with first being entertainment
>center.
>
>Any recommendations or ideas would greatly be appreciated.

Keep the RA. Save up for a good Table saw. Alternative ...Some
schools offer night courses, and you can use $80,000 equipment ..[that
one I'd like to see], their wood [you pay for it later] and their
advice ...it has been some time you say. My daughter still has the
walnut coffe table my wife made at a night course while I was studying
to finish university.

On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 08:33:19 -0600, Duane Bozarth
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Frank wrote:
>>
>...
>> ...Ripping with the RAS is one of the most intim(id)ating
>> power tool operations I ever experienced. ...
>< ... but ripping even one sheet of
>> wood on the RAS scares the bee gees out of me.
>
>I've heard and read this a lot...why?
>
>For years while saving for the PM 66 I used the RAS for everything and,
>in fact, before the jointer had it set up to use the shaping head for
>that as well. I've ripped a <ton> of material w/ nary a problem. All
>it takes (like a TS) is a long table to support the work, adjusting the
>hold down properly and using a push stick for narrow stock. I've never
>felt it was any more "scary" than the TS.
>
>Now that I have the TS, jointer, spindle shaper, et al., the RAS is
>relegated mostly to cutoff work, but I would still miss it if it were
>gone entirely.

====================================
Well I still have ...and use... my 30+ year old Craftsman RAS ...but I
will also admit that the darn thing has not moved off a 90 degree cut
in the last 20 years...but I do have a Jig that allows me to cut
perfect 45 degree cuts without moving the arm ...

That said... I am really not one to be intimidated...but I do have
plenty of reservations about ripping on "MY" RAS... just not as
comfortable as using a table saw...

As for the OP... I too suggest he keep the RAS (hell I wish I had a
lot more "stuff" that belonged to my dad...) I have plenty BUT now
that he is dead everything I see in my shop that once belonged to him
just makes my day a little more enjoyable...nothing like taking a few
seconds to remember him... ..................... ok I just took
those seconds...

I suggest that the OP pay himself ...every single week... if he makes
2 bucks an hour..then toss 2 bucks under the mattress each week...if
he makes 50 bucks an hour then toss 50 bucks under that mattress...
when the mattress gets lumpy...go buy a GOOD Table saw...

Bob Griffiths

On Tue, 28 Dec 2004 15:34:44 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>
>If you like cheap tools, you are free to use them. I tried them and decided
>to take a different course in my tool buying.
>Ed

I'm not sure that many people "like" cheap tools, so
you're addressing the exception rather than the rule.
My point is that if you're financially constrained, you
will get by and get decent work done with whatever
you can afford. That will most likely take you more
effort, but unless you're a professional who must
make a living off this work, or you're simply in a hurry,
that shouldn't keep you from going ahead anyway.

[I also wonder about the "cheap" aspect when looking
back. For instance, I bought a "cheap" Sears router
25 years ago: it was somewhere near the middle of
the Craftsman line, somewhere in the $45 - $50 range.
It didn't do badly but I did have to constantly readjust
cutter depth and those adjustments were a designed-
in pita. About a month ago I bought one of those
new PC 2.25 hp units. It cost me $190. My guess is
that with inflation, the two are pretty comparable in cost.
And while the PC is somewhat more powerful and
reasonably smooth, the Sears always had enough
power to do what I wanted and it actually vibrates less
and has similar heft to it. There's no doubt that the PC
will be easier to use and make my time more efficient,
but I don't see sufficient difference to call one a Yugo
and the other a BMW.

bought

Wanted to thank everyone for great replys. Looks like the
recommendation is to keep the RAS. In a way, I prefer the RAS (once I
learn how to use it to it's full potential, other than cutting 2x4's)
as it was my fathers and he has had it for all my life. My father was
one who would teach me how to use tools and let me at it. Still
remember working on making a box when I was 8 yrs old using the
RAS...unsupervised.

I am still looking at what tools I need (or would be very helpful) to
start making furniture. Jointer or Planer might be something else I
might want to get. But as Al Holstein put it, woodworking is going to
be a hobby. I want to get the best quaity for the price, but don't
want to spend the money for high end, all the features, tools as it IS
A HOBBY.

I have inherited alot of my father's tools. Unfotunately, they were
never keep in top condition (RAS for instance was coated with grime
and years of not being used... but still great condition). Many hand
tools though have seen better days...rust.

My initial inclination for $200 for a table saw was I had seen them
cheaper (Sears) and figured this would be a good mid range. Guess
not.

I looked at the book that Rumpty recommended and I might go that route
as it look like a very detailed book.

- Clayton


On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 00:37:57 GMT, Dooler <[email protected]> wrote:

>I have a Craftsman 10" radial arm saw (inherited from father) that is
>25+ years old. Saw is good condition. Since most of what I want to
>do is furniture/cabinet work and I have a miter saw and hand power
>saw, am looking at possibly selling the radial and getting a ~$200
>table saw.
>
>Also, what tools are recommended from someone starting out. I used to
>do alot of woodworking years ago in school, but we had all the high
>power/industrial tools (loved the $80,000 planner they had). Now,
>don't have any tools except for miter, hand saw, and drill. I am
>wanting to start making furniture, with first being entertainment
>center.
>
>Any recommendations or ideas would greatly be appreciated.
>- Clayton

I have a Craftsman Router I bought new about 35 years ago. I like it so well
I bought a used one like it and wish I had gotten a 3rd one at a garage
sale. ( I don't like to change bits) The old Craftsman has a work light that
I really like that the great PC I would like to have, doesn't have. I have 4
routers but reach for one of the old Craftsmans for critical work.

Walt Conner

> the others. But, I don't think there's a single one bearing the
> Craftsman brand today that's built as well as it was...

"Chuck Hoffman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Well, perhaps he doesn't want a NEW $200 table saw. I bought an older
> Craftsman flex drive saw for $125 and put about $300 more into
refurbishment
> and upgrades including a new rip fence and a carbide tipped blade.

I guess someone has to state the obvious. while we admire they value you
got for $425 and some hours of work, its still $225 over his budget, old or
new.

Bob

Keep the RAS and get a TS also.

"Greg O" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I would keep the RA saw untill you can loosen up your budget a bit, $500+.
> Greg
>
> "Dooler" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I have a Craftsman 10" radial arm saw (inherited from father) that is
> > 25+ years old. Saw is good condition. Since most of what I want to
> > do is furniture/cabinet work and I have a miter saw and hand power
> > saw, am looking at possibly selling the radial and getting a ~$200
> > table saw.
> >
> > Also, what tools are recommended from someone starting out. I used to
> > do alot of woodworking years ago in school, but we had all the high
> > power/industrial tools (loved the $80,000 planner they had). Now,
> > don't have any tools except for miter, hand saw, and drill. I am
> > wanting to start making furniture, with first being entertainment
> > center.
> >
> > Any recommendations or ideas would greatly be appreciated.
> > - Clayton
>
>

Keep the RAS and read the following book to learn how to use your RAS:

http://mrsawdust.com/


--

Rumpty

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"Dooler" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a Craftsman 10" radial arm saw (inherited from father) that is
> 25+ years old. Saw is good condition. Since most of what I want to
> do is furniture/cabinet work and I have a miter saw and hand power
> saw, am looking at possibly selling the radial and getting a ~$200
> table saw.
>
> Also, what tools are recommended from someone starting out. I used to
> do alot of woodworking years ago in school, but we had all the high
> power/industrial tools (loved the $80,000 planner they had). Now,
> don't have any tools except for miter, hand saw, and drill. I am
> wanting to start making furniture, with first being entertainment
> center.
>
> Any recommendations or ideas would greatly be appreciated.
> - Clayton

"sandman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Duane Bozarth <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> sandman wrote:
>> >
>> ...
>> > I absolutely hate Radial Arm Saws. The word ARM is there for a reason.
>> > They're wobbly, nasty, mean, unforgiving, evil, lethal, ugly, useless.
>> > dangerous pieces of ...
>
>
>>
>> Gee, why don't you tell us what you <really> think???? :)
>
> I speak my mind, 'cuz I have nothing to lose ;)


Yes you do, PLONK!

Rich

"Al Holstein" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have a 29 year old Craftmans RA that I am using. I used it to build
> my own kitchen cabinets, without any problems. Ripped all of the
> shelving and face frames, including oak trim for all of the shelves.
>

My TS broke down a few years ago and I had to do some ripping with the RAS
to finish off a project. Ripping with the RAS is one of the most intimating
power tool operations I ever experienced. Funny I could cut trees with my
chain saw all day long and think nothing of it but ripping even one sheet of
wood on the RAS scares the bee gees out of me.



> There are time that I would like to have a TS but don't want to give
> the space in my garage. Have a drill press, band saw, and jointer and
> have made it without a TS. But I only work as a hobby.
>
> If I were to try and make more of woodworking than a hobby that I would
> like to have one.
>
> Al
>

Dooler <[email protected]> wrote in news:9l4vs0hubcjsbeoplj5goik7ivk3jeld83
@4ax.com:

> My initial inclination for $200 for a table saw was I had seen them
> cheaper (Sears) and figured this would be a good mid range. Guess
> not.

Mid range for a table saw is up about $1000 from there. Your RAS will do
just fine for some time. You may never decide that you need to spend the
bigger money.

>
> I looked at the book that Rumpty recommended and I might go that route
> as it look like a very detailed book.

Rumpty knows RAS as well as anyone who hangs out here, and far better than
most. It's not the tool I'd recommend starting with, if it meant digging
into the wallet, but you have one, it was your Dad's, and that's a far
different story.

Go slowly on the new tool purchases, until you sort out what you already
have. Cleaning up Dad's old tools is a healthy endeavor in any case.

Patriarch

"Dooler" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have a Craftsman 10" radial arm saw (inherited from father) that is
> 25+ years old. Saw is good condition. Since most of what I want to
> do is furniture/cabinet work and I have a miter saw and hand power
> saw, am looking at possibly selling the radial and getting a ~$200
> table saw.

Keep the RA for now. You don't want a $200 table saw. Really, you don't.

Just got a magazine on woodworking (and drooling at all the tools).
One thing that is consistent every place I look is that RAS are not
that popular and all How-To's always show table saws.

Looks like my first purchase probably needs to be some sharpening
stones to work on my father's chisels and old hand planer (I know he
always used files or grinder to sharpen them, so NOT in best of
shape).

Maybe with upcoming tax refund (hope-a-hope-a-hope-a-hope-a-hope) I
might look at a table saw. Definately need to do something about how
to hook my shop vac to RAS as one of things I dread using due to dust
(garage is for other things other than wood working).


-Clayton

On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 00:37:57 GMT, Dooler <[email protected]> wrote:

>I have a Craftsman 10" radial arm saw (inherited from father) that is
>25+ years old. Saw is good condition. Since most of what I want to
>do is furniture/cabinet work and I have a miter saw and hand power
>saw, am looking at possibly selling the radial and getting a ~$200
>table saw.
>
>Also, what tools are recommended from someone starting out. I used to
>do alot of woodworking years ago in school, but we had all the high
>power/industrial tools (loved the $80,000 planner they had). Now,
>don't have any tools except for miter, hand saw, and drill. I am
>wanting to start making furniture, with first being entertainment
>center.
>
>Any recommendations or ideas would greatly be appreciated.
>- Clayton

Am in lockstep with suggestions to keep the RAS and will add find the
alignment instructions and go through them and understand what each
one does so when it comes time for troubleshooting you'll be ahead of
the problem. I got one from a neighbor that was newer than yours that
couldn't be aligned as one of two pieces for correcting a heel problem
was missing from the factory. It resides in someone elses garage now.

On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 05:00:43 GMT, Dooler <[email protected]> wrote:

>I have inherited alot of my father's tools. Unfotunately, they were
>never keep in top condition (RAS for instance was coated with grime
>and years of not being used... but still great condition). Many hand
>tools though have seen better days...rust.

I have blades marked for table/miter saw so apparently there
is a difference. I've always used the same blades for
RAS. What is the difference? I don't recall any advertised
specifically for RAS.
Dave

Mike said:
Use a blade that is correct for a radial arm saw.

mike

In article <[email protected]>,
Dooler <[email protected]> wrote:

> I have a Craftsman 10" radial arm saw (inherited from father) that is
> 25+ years old. Saw is good condition. Since most of what I want to
> do is furniture/cabinet work and I have a miter saw and hand power
> saw, am looking at possibly selling the radial and getting a ~$200
> table saw.
>
> Also, what tools are recommended from someone starting out. I used to
> do alot of woodworking years ago in school, but we had all the high
> power/industrial tools (loved the $80,000 planner they had). Now,
> don't have any tools except for miter, hand saw, and drill. I am
> wanting to start making furniture, with first being entertainment
> center.
>
> Any recommendations or ideas would greatly be appreciated.
> - Clayton

I absolutely hate Radial Arm Saws. The word ARM is there for a reason.
They're wobbly, nasty, mean, unforgiving, evil, lethal, ugly, useless.
dangerous pieces of shit. They should be outlawed, collected and dropped
off on the SawStop's Corporation's front lawn. "Here, do something about
THESE!!"
Of the few nasty accidents I have personal knowledge of, people I know
of, have in all cases, but one, involved radial ARM saws. Those devices
are from SATAN!

I am by no means a fanny-pack-wearing, John Tesh listening,
tofu-sucking, Volvo-driving tree-hugger, in fact, I eat Steak
Tartare...raw..and yes, I have even thrown an aluminum beer-can in the
regular garbage and thrown a used piece of chewing gum out the car
window and vented some nasty gasses directly to atmosphere.

But RAS's should be outlawed, In My Ever So Humble Opinion.

Rob

"Common Sense Is Not Common"
(Voltaire)

In article <[email protected]>,
Duane Bozarth <[email protected]> wrote:

> sandman wrote:
> >
> ...
> > I absolutely hate Radial Arm Saws. The word ARM is there for a reason.
> > They're wobbly, nasty, mean, unforgiving, evil, lethal, ugly, useless.
> > dangerous pieces of ...


>
> Gee, why don't you tell us what you <really> think???? :)

I speak my mind, 'cuz I have nothing to lose ;)

r

And of course it does. Thanks. Didn't know there was a guard that
could be installed. Since I am my father's son, any protection I can
get from losing a finger would be helpful (my father never lost a
finger, but always getting cut...IE: sliding knife towards fingers
when sharpening).

Thanks again.
- Clayton

On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 01:27:59 -0500, "Lee Gordon"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Since noone else has mentioned it, let me suggest that you go to
>www.radialarmsawrecall.com to see if your model qualifies for the free blade
>guard retrofit kit (new table top included).
>
>Lee

On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 05:00:43 GMT, Dooler <[email protected]> wrote:

>Wanted to thank everyone for great replys. Looks like the
>recommendation is to keep the RAS. In a way, I prefer the RAS (once I
>learn how to use it to it's full potential, other than cutting 2x4's)
>as it was my fathers and he has had it for all my life. My father was
>one who would teach me how to use tools and let me at it. Still
>remember working on making a box when I was 8 yrs old using the
>RAS...unsupervised.
>
>I am still looking at what tools I need (or would be very helpful) to
>start making furniture. Jointer or Planer might be something else I
>might want to get. But as Al Holstein put it, woodworking is going to
>be a hobby. I want to get the best quaity for the price, but don't
>want to spend the money for high end, all the features, tools as it IS
>A HOBBY.
>
>I have inherited alot of my father's tools. Unfotunately, they were
>never keep in top condition (RAS for instance was coated with grime
>and years of not being used... but still great condition). Many hand
>tools though have seen better days...rust.

don't be afraid of a little rust. do a google search for electrolysis
rust removal. lots of tool refurb howto's out there on the web.

old tools (especially hand tools) are often better than what you can
get today for less than large amounts of cash.


>
>My initial inclination for $200 for a table saw was I had seen them
>cheaper (Sears) and figured this would be a good mid range. Guess
>not.
>
>I looked at the book that Rumpty recommended and I might go that route
>as it look like a very detailed book.
>
>- Clayton
>
>
>On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 00:37:57 GMT, Dooler <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>I have a Craftsman 10" radial arm saw (inherited from father) that is
>>25+ years old. Saw is good condition. Since most of what I want to
>>do is furniture/cabinet work and I have a miter saw and hand power
>>saw, am looking at possibly selling the radial and getting a ~$200
>>table saw.
>>
>>Also, what tools are recommended from someone starting out. I used to
>>do alot of woodworking years ago in school, but we had all the high
>>power/industrial tools (loved the $80,000 planner they had). Now,
>>don't have any tools except for miter, hand saw, and drill. I am
>>wanting to start making furniture, with first being entertainment
>>center.
>>
>>Any recommendations or ideas would greatly be appreciated.
>>- Clayton

Well, perhaps he doesn't want a NEW $200 table saw. I bought an older
Craftsman flex drive saw for $125 and put about $300 more into refurbishment
and upgrades including a new rip fence and a carbide tipped blade. What I
have now is something far better than the old girl ever was...even when
brand new.

If you have the time and inclination to refurbish and modernize an old
tablesaw, you can find one for far less than $200 but be prepared to invest
at least that amount more for necessary upgrades. You'll end up with
something that will rival the top of the line contractor saws from the best
known manufacturerss for about half the money.

One note of caution: if you decide to go that route, get one with cast iron
extension tables. Don't even look at saws with stamped steel extensions.

"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Dooler" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >I have a Craftsman 10" radial arm saw (inherited from father) that is
> > 25+ years old. Saw is good condition. Since most of what I want to
> > do is furniture/cabinet work and I have a miter saw and hand power
> > saw, am looking at possibly selling the radial and getting a ~$200
> > table saw.
>
> Keep the RA for now. You don't want a $200 table saw. Really, you don't.
>
>

Since noone else has mentioned it, let me suggest that you go to
www.radialarmsawrecall.com to see if your model qualifies for the free blade
guard retrofit kit (new table top included).

Lee

--
To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"

Duane Bozarth wrote:

> Frank wrote:
>
> ...
>
>>...Ripping with the RAS is one of the most intim(id)ating
>>power tool operations I ever experienced. ...
>
> < ... but ripping even one sheet of
>
>>wood on the RAS scares the bee gees out of me.
>
>
> I've heard and read this a lot...why?
>
> For years while saving for the PM 66 I used the RAS for everything and,
> in fact, before the jointer had it set up to use the shaping head for
> that as well. I've ripped a <ton> of material w/ nary a problem. All
> it takes (like a TS) is a long table to support the work, adjusting the
> hold down properly and using a push stick for narrow stock. I've never
> felt it was any more "scary" than the TS.
>
> Now that I have the TS, jointer, spindle shaper, et al., the RAS is
> relegated mostly to cutoff work, but I would still miss it if it were
> gone entirely.

Amen. No more dangerous than the TS if you use the holddowns, pawls,
featherboards, etc. Keep your fingers away from spinning things (old
Swedish saying).
mahalo,
jo4hn

> GregP wrote:
> ...
>> ... All of this put down of cheap gear seems
>> to have more to do with something other than utility.

I spoke from experience. I had one of those cheap Craftsman saws the OP
suggested buying. Yes, it has something more to do that utility. It has
to do with ease of use. It has a lot to do with making cross cuts on wide
boards. Has a lot to do with making fixtures, jigs, and sleds that fit
standard miter slots. Has a lot to do with accuracy of the fence.

If you like cheap tools, you are free to use them. I tried them and decided
to take a different course in my tool buying.
Ed

On Tue, 28 Dec 2004 07:57:25 -0800, kwoodhands wrote:

> Forget the cheap table saw, your better off with handheld circular saw
> than that junk. I do not care for a radial arm saw myself, but I have
> suggestions that may help.Set the saw up so it is slightly out of level
> from front to back. This will make the saw carriage slide away from you,
> this is a safety matter. Remove fence, add 3/8"x 3/4"x2" spacer blocks to
> the table. Put the blocks about 6" on center and replace fence. Now you
> created a space for sawdust to go, you won't get build up of dust along
> fence.

First of all, if the saw motor will move on the arm by itself with a
slight tilt, it isn't adjusted properly. It should be adjusted so that it
moves with some resistance, but smoothly. In moving the motor, you
shouldn't be able to make the bearings slide on the arm with firm finger
pressure on the bearings.

Secondly, you should need no spacers between the main table and the fence,
rather a 1/4" sacrificial top with 1/8" space between it and the fence.
If you were to place spacers on the rear of the main table, you would
need to trim the 3/8" off of the rear of the main table to keep the fence
in the proper alignment. This could allow the fence to bow slightly
away from the rear table causing precision problems.

The RAS needs to be tuned in a strict sequence as most adjustments depend
on previous adjstments.

The best advice as stated here many times is to get either or both of the
books written by Mr Sawdust and Jon Eakes and follow the alignment/tuneup
instructions exactly. When set up and used properly, the RAS is not a
dangerous tool for cross cutting or ripping.

- Doug

--

To escape criticism--do nothing, say nothing, be nothing." (Elbert Hubbard)

Looks like a good book, might just buy it. Thanks.




On Sun, 26 Dec 2004 22:45:06 -0500, "Rumpty" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Keep the RAS and read the following book to learn how to use your RAS:
>
>http://mrsawdust.com/