cC

[email protected] (Charlie Campney)

25/01/2004 1:55 PM

Drawers--dovetails vs dado

Greetings,

What is the preferred way to fit drawer backs? I am currently
starting drawers for a bedroom chest & dresser and have a question
about the drawers. I am fitting the fronts with half blind dovetails.
I have mostly seen the backs just set into dados and nailed. I am
thinking that as long as I have the dovetail jig set up I could also
do the backs that way too.
What is your preference? Also, has anyone used any kind of friction
reducing tape on the runners? The runners and side guides are cherry.
Drawer sides & backs are of poplar.

Regards,
Charlie in Kentucky


This topic has 9 replies

Pn

Phisherman

in reply to [email protected] (Charlie Campney) on 25/01/2004 1:55 PM

27/01/2004 5:56 PM

On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 21:18:43 -0500, "John Grossbohlin"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>
>"Chris" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> [email protected] (Charlie Campney) wrote in message
>news:<[email protected]>...
>> In a discussion here a while back someone pointed out that the back of
>> the drawer does not need the "pull" strength that the front needs so
>> no reason to use dovetails all around. But, say something (paint,
>> nail polish, or anything sticky) spills in the drawer - the dado and
>> brads method makes it much easier to replace the bottoms.
>
>Given that the back of a drawer is generally completely above the bottom
>(i.e., the drawer bottom is nailed to the bottom of the back) I don't see
>what difference the joinery of the back corners would make to bottom
>replacement... ???
>
>John
>

That's right. The traditional way is to slide the drawer bottom in
from the back and use one screw or nail into the back to hold the
bottom in place. But, I have also seen drawer bottoms fit into a
drawer back groove, although I do not recommend this method.

kk

"kb8qlr"

in reply to [email protected] (Charlie Campney) on 25/01/2004 1:55 PM

28/01/2004 4:49 PM

The drawers in my kitchen were built many years ago with butt joints. So too
are the drawers I built for in my shop. IMHO dovetails are too much work.
Cheers!
Joe kb8qlr


--
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"Phisherman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 21:18:43 -0500, "John Grossbohlin"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >
> >"Chris" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> [email protected] (Charlie Campney) wrote in message
> >news:<[email protected]>...
> >> In a discussion here a while back someone pointed out that the back of
> >> the drawer does not need the "pull" strength that the front needs so
> >> no reason to use dovetails all around. But, say something (paint,
> >> nail polish, or anything sticky) spills in the drawer - the dado and
> >> brads method makes it much easier to replace the bottoms.
> >
> >Given that the back of a drawer is generally completely above the bottom
> >(i.e., the drawer bottom is nailed to the bottom of the back) I don't see
> >what difference the joinery of the back corners would make to bottom
> >replacement... ???
> >
> >John
> >
>
> That's right. The traditional way is to slide the drawer bottom in
> from the back and use one screw or nail into the back to hold the
> bottom in place. But, I have also seen drawer bottoms fit into a
> drawer back groove, although I do not recommend this method.

cC

[email protected] (Charlie Self)

in reply to [email protected] (Charlie Campney) on 25/01/2004 1:55 PM

26/01/2004 12:33 AM

Charlie Campney asks:

>What is the preferred way to fit drawer backs? I am currently
>starting drawers for a bedroom chest & dresser and have a question
>about the drawers. I am fitting the fronts with half blind dovetails.
> I have mostly seen the backs just set into dados and nailed. I am
>thinking that as long as I have the dovetail jig set up I could also
>do the backs that way too.
>What is your preference? Also, has anyone used any kind of friction
>reducing tape on the runners? The runners and side guides are cherry.
> Drawer sides & backs are of poplar.

Jeez, man. Not nailed, that's for sure. If you've got the jig set up, do the
dovetails all around.

Charlie Self
"Character is much easier kept than recovered." Thomas Paine

http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html

BR

Bruce Rowen

in reply to [email protected] (Charlie Campney) on 25/01/2004 1:55 PM

26/01/2004 10:38 AM


>>Greetings,
>>
>>What is the preferred way to fit drawer backs? I am currently
>>starting drawers for a bedroom chest & dresser and have a question
>>about the drawers. I am fitting the fronts with half blind dovetails.
>> I have mostly seen the backs just set into dados and nailed. I am
>>thinking that as long as I have the dovetail jig set up I could also
>>do the backs that way too.
>
>

In my mind it depends on how much work you are willing to do.
Functionally the rear part of a drawer has very little force applied
during normal usage except for shifting drawer contents or helping
support a load of paper leaning against it as with a file cabinet.
Decoratively speaking, dovetails at the drawer back won't be seen unless
the drawer is removed or is on full extension slides.

If you are all set up for the DTs and don't mind spending the extra few
moments cutting the pieces and dealing with the extra wear on your bits,
you certainly have nothing to lose with the DT's over other joints and
gain a bit of satisfaction knowing everything is "right" with your project.

-Bruce



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Pn

Phisherman

in reply to [email protected] (Charlie Campney) on 25/01/2004 1:55 PM

25/01/2004 10:08 PM

On 25 Jan 2004 13:55:38 -0800, [email protected] (Charlie Campney)
wrote:

>Greetings,
>
>What is the preferred way to fit drawer backs? I am currently
>starting drawers for a bedroom chest & dresser and have a question
>about the drawers. I am fitting the fronts with half blind dovetails.
> I have mostly seen the backs just set into dados and nailed. I am
>thinking that as long as I have the dovetail jig set up I could also
>do the backs that way too.
>What is your preference? Also, has anyone used any kind of friction
>reducing tape on the runners? The runners and side guides are cherry.
> Drawer sides & backs are of poplar.
>
>Regards,
>Charlie in Kentucky


I either use a dado, or through dovetail joints. Dovetails are
probably overkill, but I find myself using them more frequently as
they are strong, give a tad more drawer space, and they are fun to
make. Nails? We don't need no stinkin' nails! I have not used any
anti-friction stuff on my drawer runners, not even candle wax. A
properly made drawer will slide sweetly without any help.

DF

"David F. Eisan"

in reply to [email protected] (Charlie Campney) on 25/01/2004 1:55 PM

26/01/2004 4:14 AM

Dear Charlie,

> What is your preference? Also, has anyone used any kind of friction
> reducing tape on the runners? The runners and side guides are cherry.
> Drawer sides & backs are of poplar.

Slip-It.


cC

in reply to [email protected] (Charlie Campney) on 25/01/2004 1:55 PM

26/01/2004 9:17 AM

[email protected] (Charlie Campney) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Greetings,
>
> What is the preferred way to fit drawer backs? I am currently
> starting drawers for a bedroom chest & dresser and have a question
> about the drawers. I am fitting the fronts with half blind dovetails.
> I have mostly seen the backs just set into dados and nailed. I am
> thinking that as long as I have the dovetail jig set up I could also
> do the backs that way too.

Charlie,

I often wondered the same thing... why take the time to do nice
dovetails joints on the front, then cheap out with dado and (horrors!)
brad nails to hold the drawer bottom in place.

In a discussion here a while back someone pointed out that the back of
the drawer does not need the "pull" strength that the front needs so
no reason to use dovetails all around. But, say something (paint,
nail polish, or anything sticky) spills in the drawer - the dado and
brads method makes it much easier to replace the bottoms.

-Chris

JG

"John Grossbohlin"

in reply to [email protected] (Charlie Campney) on 25/01/2004 1:55 PM

26/01/2004 9:18 PM


"Chris" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> [email protected] (Charlie Campney) wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> In a discussion here a while back someone pointed out that the back of
> the drawer does not need the "pull" strength that the front needs so
> no reason to use dovetails all around. But, say something (paint,
> nail polish, or anything sticky) spills in the drawer - the dado and
> brads method makes it much easier to replace the bottoms.

Given that the back of a drawer is generally completely above the bottom
(i.e., the drawer bottom is nailed to the bottom of the back) I don't see
what difference the joinery of the back corners would make to bottom
replacement... ???

John



JC

John Crea

in reply to [email protected] (Charlie Campney) on 25/01/2004 1:55 PM

25/01/2004 8:00 PM

Dado's are fine for the rear/back and the bottom. You are NOT going
to be pulling on those joints like you would the front where the
dovetails go

John

On Sun, 25 Jan 2004 22:08:58 GMT, Phisherman <[email protected]> wrote:

>On 25 Jan 2004 13:55:38 -0800, [email protected] (Charlie Campney)
>wrote:
>
>>Greetings,
>>
>>What is the preferred way to fit drawer backs? I am currently
>>starting drawers for a bedroom chest & dresser and have a question
>>about the drawers. I am fitting the fronts with half blind dovetails.
>> I have mostly seen the backs just set into dados and nailed. I am
>>thinking that as long as I have the dovetail jig set up I could also
>>do the backs that way too.
>>What is your preference? Also, has anyone used any kind of friction
>>reducing tape on the runners? The runners and side guides are cherry.
>> Drawer sides & backs are of poplar.
>>
>>Regards,
>>Charlie in Kentucky
>
>
>I either use a dado, or through dovetail joints. Dovetails are
>probably overkill, but I find myself using them more frequently as
>they are strong, give a tad more drawer space, and they are fun to
>make. Nails? We don't need no stinkin' nails! I have not used any
>anti-friction stuff on my drawer runners, not even candle wax. A
>properly made drawer will slide sweetly without any help.


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