I have found a couple of under deck methods of channeling water from a deck
but they all go under the deck boards or joists.
This won't work for my application.
Earlier I posted a possible way to water waterproof under a deck by cutting
spline pockets into the edges of composite deck board and using silicone to
seal the splines. A friend suggested using space ball (used to keep door
panels from rattling) to keep the spline centered and allow for expansion.
Another suggestion was to cut a piece of vinyl siding 'J' channel into a 'U'
channel with the top two bars of the 'U' about 1/2" long.
Then making a table saw cut into both sides of the bottom of each deck board
about 1/2" deep and 3/8" in from the edge.
As each board is installed, silicone would be inserted into each saw cut
then inserting the 'U' channel.
Water would fall between the deck boards and be channeled off the deck
through the 'U' channel.
I would use an under deck fastening system to secure the deck boards.
Does anyone think either of these methods would work?
There are a few products for sale that you could look at and
probably devise your own version. Type "dry below" in your browser and
let us know what you come up with.
Robert Smith
Jacksonville, Fl.
Tom H wrote:
> I have found a couple of under deck methods of channeling water from a deck
> but they all go under the deck boards or joists.
> This won't work for my application.
>
> Earlier I posted a possible way to water waterproof under a deck by cutting
> spline pockets into the edges of composite deck board and using silicone to
> seal the splines. A friend suggested using space ball (used to keep door
> panels from rattling) to keep the spline centered and allow for expansion.
>
> Another suggestion was to cut a piece of vinyl siding 'J' channel into a 'U'
> channel with the top two bars of the 'U' about 1/2" long.
> Then making a table saw cut into both sides of the bottom of each deck board
> about 1/2" deep and 3/8" in from the edge.
>
> As each board is installed, silicone would be inserted into each saw cut
> then inserting the 'U' channel.
> Water would fall between the deck boards and be channeled off the deck
> through the 'U' channel.
>
> I would use an under deck fastening system to secure the deck boards.
>
> Does anyone think either of these methods would work?
I am not sure where I am coming into this at but is there no sloping for
dranage?
Al
"Tom H" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have found a couple of under deck methods of channeling water from a deck
>but they all go under the deck boards or joists.
> This won't work for my application.
>
> Earlier I posted a possible way to water waterproof under a deck by
> cutting spline pockets into the edges of composite deck board and using
> silicone to seal the splines. A friend suggested using space ball (used
> to keep door panels from rattling) to keep the spline centered and allow
> for expansion.
>
> Another suggestion was to cut a piece of vinyl siding 'J' channel into a
> 'U' channel with the top two bars of the 'U' about 1/2" long.
> Then making a table saw cut into both sides of the bottom of each deck
> board about 1/2" deep and 3/8" in from the edge.
>
> As each board is installed, silicone would be inserted into each saw cut
> then inserting the 'U' channel.
> Water would fall between the deck boards and be channeled off the deck
> through the 'U' channel.
>
> I would use an under deck fastening system to secure the deck boards.
>
> Does anyone think either of these methods would work?
>
Tom H wrote:
> I have found a couple of under deck methods of channeling water from a
> deck but they all go under the deck boards or joists.
> This won't work for my application.
>
> Earlier I posted a possible way to water waterproof under a deck by
> cutting spline pockets into the edges of composite deck board and using
> silicone to
> seal the splines. A friend suggested using space ball (used to keep door
> panels from rattling) to keep the spline centered and allow for expansion.
>
> Another suggestion was to cut a piece of vinyl siding 'J' channel into a
> 'U' channel with the top two bars of the 'U' about 1/2" long.
> Then making a table saw cut into both sides of the bottom of each deck
> board about 1/2" deep and 3/8" in from the edge.
>
> As each board is installed, silicone would be inserted into each saw cut
> then inserting the 'U' channel.
> Water would fall between the deck boards and be channeled off the deck
> through the 'U' channel.
>
> I would use an under deck fastening system to secure the deck boards.
>
> Does anyone think either of these methods would work?
Any method other than building a proper roof under the deck is going to be a
kluge--if it works reliably then you may have come upon a new building
method that will eventually get into the codes, if it doesn't, well, then
you have to try something else.
The way that a boat is waterproofed is to cut the seams v-shaped and pound
in some caulking then cover that with caulking compound. This leaks a
little until the wood swells, then it is pretty much watertight. Trouble
is that when it dries out it leaks again and the caulking has to be
replaced periodically. With synthetic lumber and flexible sealants that
_might_ work as a long term solution in your application or might not.
With your U channel you need to figure out how you are going to clean it and
what is going to happen when it gets clogged and how you are going to fix
it when a hole gets knocked in it and make sure that it has enough carrying
capacity for the worst-case rainfall in your area. In an ideal world some
cup in the boards and sloping them a little would be a good idea so that
most of the rainfall is carried down the center of the board instead of
being channeled into the cracks.
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
I'm coming in late too, but the U channel idea sounds like it has way too
many joints and places that can leak, even if an attempt is made to seal
them.
A relatively level surface that's impossible to get to for maintenance,
because there's a deck above it, will likely collect a lot of small debris
that will form small dams for the water flow and will make the tiniest pin
hole become a big leak. Only a single sheet of thick plastic or something
with no holes in it at all is going to work under a relatively level deck
and stay waterproof for any length of time. Even that type of surface will
require some maintenance, eventually, and you won't be able to get to it
without major dis-assembly. If you were to build the storage space with a
slightly sloped roof and then add deck platforms above it that could be
removed for roof maintenance I believe it would be the best way to go. Decks
that are built on top of flat gravel roofs are built in sections so they can
be moved easily when the roof needs repair.
--
Charley
"Al" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am not sure where I am coming into this at but is there no sloping for
> dranage?
>
> Al
>
>
>
> "Tom H" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >I have found a couple of under deck methods of channeling water from a
deck
> >but they all go under the deck boards or joists.
> > This won't work for my application.
> >
> > Earlier I posted a possible way to water waterproof under a deck by
> > cutting spline pockets into the edges of composite deck board and using
> > silicone to seal the splines. A friend suggested using space ball (used
> > to keep door panels from rattling) to keep the spline centered and allow
> > for expansion.
> >
> > Another suggestion was to cut a piece of vinyl siding 'J' channel into a
> > 'U' channel with the top two bars of the 'U' about 1/2" long.
> > Then making a table saw cut into both sides of the bottom of each deck
> > board about 1/2" deep and 3/8" in from the edge.
> >
> > As each board is installed, silicone would be inserted into each saw cut
> > then inserting the 'U' channel.
> > Water would fall between the deck boards and be channeled off the deck
> > through the 'U' channel.
> >
> > I would use an under deck fastening system to secure the deck boards.
> >
> > Does anyone think either of these methods would work?
> >
>
>