Anyone every use graphite spray for to lub the "innards" of their TS?
I came across this :
http://www.graphitestore.com/itemDetails.asp?item_id=441&prd_id=35&cat_id=10&curPage=1
Ive read here that graphite powder is the best thing to useworks great - but
were do you find it?
I also came across this little receipe :
"Buy a small package of dry graphite powder at your local auto supply
store (~$2). Get one of the large baby glass jars (one step up from
the small ones) and pour 1/2 of the graphite into the jar. Now start
adding a spoonful or two of Johnson's or Butchers wax and stir well.
Keep adding graphite, wax and mixing until the jar is about 3/4 full.
This should give you a very black looking wax full of graphite to lube
your gears and it will not attract sawdust. If needed, add a drop or
two of mineral spirits to thin if the wax is hard - but not to much.
If you add to much, leave the lid off the jar for a few days so it can
evaporate out."
I checked out my local pep boys and asked for graphite powder - they had no
idea what I was talking about.
Any help would be appreciated??
Thanks
Rob V <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I checked out my local pep boys and asked for graphite powder - they had
no
> idea what I was talking about.
>
> Any help would be appreciated??
>
> Thanks
Try a good hardware store. They should have graphite powder. It's pretty
common stuff.
Brian
Rob V asks:
>I also came across this little receipe :
>"Buy a small package of dry graphite powder at your local auto supply
>store (~$2). Get one of the large baby glass jars (one step up from
>the small ones) and pour 1/2 of the graphite into the jar. Now start
>adding a spoonful or two of Johnson's or Butchers wax and stir well.
>Keep adding graphite, wax and mixing until the jar is about 3/4 full.
>This should give you a very black looking wax full of graphite to lube
>your gears and it will not attract sawdust. If needed, add a drop or
>two of mineral spirits to thin if the wax is hard - but not to much.
>If you add to much, leave the lid off the jar for a few days so it can
>evaporate out."
>
>I checked out my local pep boys and asked for graphite powder - they had no
>idea what I was talking about.
You mean the clerk didn't know. Ask for door lock lube. That's dry graphite
powder, usually in a plastic tube that you squeeze lightly to send a puff into
the lock interior.
Charlie Self
"In our civilization, and under our republican form of government, intelligence
is so highly honored that it is rewarded by exemption from the cares of
office." Ambrose Bierce
"George" <george@least> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Yep, asking for powdered graphite versus graphite powder might have done
> the trick.
Where I shop, "powdered graphite" is very different stuff to "lock
lubricating graphite". If it's as a lubricant, then you want flake or
colloidal graphite. Just asking for powder (unless you specify it as a
lubricant) might get you anything from activated charcoal to
buckyballs.
BTW - When you've used this stuff, put it away _carefully_ and don;t
store it in glass. You wouldn't believe the mess if you drop it.
Unisaw A100 <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> So, do you wear tights when you're fighting spam?
You'll wish you never asked:
http://www.ibiblio.org/jmaynard/TRONcostume/
Rob V wrote:
> Anyone every use graphite spray for to lub the "innards" of their TS?
>
> I came across this :
> http://www.graphitestore.com/itemDetails.asp?item_id=441&prd_id=35&cat_id=10&curPage=1
>
> Ive read here that graphite powder is the best thing to useworks great - but
> were do you find it?
Try an automotive store or Ace hardware. See:
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1295694&cp=1254883.1255104.1304041&parentPage=family
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
Look here under product 423 http://www.westsystem.com/
(near bottom of page)
"Rob V" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Anyone every use graphite spray for to lub the "innards" of their TS?
>
> I came across this :
>
http://www.graphitestore.com/itemDetails.asp?item_id=441&prd_id=35&cat_id=10&curPage=1
>
> Ive read here that graphite powder is the best thing to useworks great -
but
> were do you find it?
>
> I also came across this little receipe :
> "Buy a small package of dry graphite powder at your local auto supply
> store (~$2). Get one of the large baby glass jars (one step up from
> the small ones) and pour 1/2 of the graphite into the jar. Now start
> adding a spoonful or two of Johnson's or Butchers wax and stir well.
> Keep adding graphite, wax and mixing until the jar is about 3/4 full.
> This should give you a very black looking wax full of graphite to lube
> your gears and it will not attract sawdust. If needed, add a drop or
> two of mineral spirits to thin if the wax is hard - but not to much.
> If you add to much, leave the lid off the jar for a few days so it can
> evaporate out."
>
> I checked out my local pep boys and asked for graphite powder - they had
no
> idea what I was talking about.
>
> Any help would be appreciated??
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
Yep, asking for powdered graphite versus graphite powder might have done
the trick.
The less they understand, the more literal folks are.
I like "slide plate" spray.
"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, "Rob V"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> >Ive read here that graphite powder is the best thing to useworks great -
but
> >were do you find it?
>
> Note that you don't want to use graphite from a spray can for that recipe,
you
> want powdered graphite in a tube. Specifically, you want *dry* graphite;
some
> brands are graphite suspended in light machine oil, and you don't want
that
> either.
> >
> >I checked out my local pep boys and asked for graphite powder - they had
no
> >idea what I was talking about.
>
> If you tell them it's for lubricating car door locks, they'll probably be
able
> to find it, even if they don't know what it is.
> >
It was my point. You were merely the first to use the phrase.
Some lock lubricants also have oils and such, so you'd have to have
specified dry.
"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, "George" <george@least> wrote:
> >Yep, asking for powdered graphite versus graphite powder might have done
> >the trick.
>
> Perhaps, but that wasn't the point. Rather, the idea was that while the
> typical parts-store drone might have no idea what graphite is, there's a
> decent chance he could point you toward the stuff that's used as door lock
> lubricant.
>
Well, you may be the first to have grasped the point I tried to make -
"powdered graphite" versus "graphite powder" makes a lot of difference to
someone who's only seen the one word combination, and, as one obtuse critic
mentioned it, not all lock lubes and free-up solutions are either of the
above.
I still recall my innocent young bride returning from the PX without the
requested shoe polish, because "all they had was 'boot polish'."
"Andy Dingley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "George" <george@least> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
>
> > Yep, asking for powdered graphite versus graphite powder might have
done
> > the trick.
>
> Where I shop, "powdered graphite" is very different stuff to "lock
> lubricating graphite". If it's as a lubricant, then you want flake or
> colloidal graphite. Just asking for powder (unless you specify it as a
> lubricant) might get you anything from activated charcoal to
> buckyballs.
In article <[email protected]>,
Bruce Barnett <[email protected]> wrote:
>"xrongor" <[email protected]> writes:
>
>> do you find this does more harm than good? ive had to resist the urge
>> several times to spam you...
>>
>> randy
>>
>>> --
>>> Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
>>> $500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.
>
>
>You need a good template letter, customized to use the laws of
>your state, and have to make it official. It does work occasionally,
>and you can get money if you do the legwork.
It does *NOT* work with anybody who actually knows the law.
They just laugh.
Because you _cannot_ prove that the person who sent the mail is the SAME
PERSON who saw the message with the 'contract' in it.
Whereupon the entire 'contract' claim disintegrates.
Party A harvests the address, and sells it to Party B.
Party B receives -only- the address, and never saw the 'contract'.
Hence there is no 'meeting of the minds', and no contract is formed.
If such an approach _were_ legally valid, I could put a 'contract' on
my postings which said 'by reading it, you agree to pay me $100 for
my time/effort in writing it."
>It's also a great way to end an argument when a spammer tries to say
>that I granted permission. (Notice that each address I use is
>unique/tagged). I can point to the exact USENET posting where someone
>harvested my address for spamming.
Yup. "Someone" -- not necessarily the spammer. Can't prove that it was
the person who _sent_ the spam though. You know _where_ the address came
from, but not _who_ did the deed.
There are other techniques that are virtually 100% effective at stopping
the spam at the point of entry into the system.
I run a _mail-server_ that supports a specialized filtering front-end.
It applies a grand total of -eight- simple tests to incoming messages.
I have not had *one* piece of spam in my inbox in the two+ months since
I installed it. In that period, there have been more than 1500 messages
'sent' to me. I have had a grand total of 3 'false positive' rejections
of messages that it should have let in -- two because Netscape changed
the name of their mailservers, and one because of a programming error I
made.
The checks I use:
1) Does the _originating_ mailserver claim that it is 'me' -- by name or
IP address. If so, reject the connection.
message: 'Liar, Liar, Pants on Fire.'
This catches over 4% of all incoming spam.
2) Check for _two_ specific 'banned' domains (Asian 'freemail' providers
from which I have *never* gotten anything but 'Nigeria 419' scam
solicitation), in the sender identification.
These get 'treated rudely' -- told that if they want to send mail to
my systems there is a cost of $10/kilobyte, with a $25/message minimum.
minimum $500 dollar deposit required in advance.
They're _learning_. just over 1% of incoming spam triggers this.
3) Check for originating mailserver, sender, and/or 'From' address at
Hotmail, AOL, Netscape, or Yahoo. If any of those three items contain
one of those domains, *all* must be consistent. e.g., you can't mail me
from Earthink, claiming an AOL address, or from AOL claiming an Earthlink
address.
The reject message specifies the restrictions, and adds "If you want to
send mail to this system, don't lie about who you are". (When Netscape
changed their mailservers, and mail from my _mother's_ Netscape account
got bounced, I had some explaining to to! :)
About 17% of incoming spam gets dropped by this filter.
4) Check the 'character set' specified, if any. If it's something I can't
read -- reject the message, with an announcement of what character sets
-are- supported here.
This has caught a grand total of *one* message, so far. Something in
some form of Chinese. This is less than 0.1% of incoming spam here.
5) I don't accept any 'HTML only' mail. Rejection says 'please resend
as PLAIN ASCII text'.
6) [The _fun_ one] There are 'stigmata' in mail headers that allow one
to _highly_reliably_ differentiate between a 'reply' (as generated
*inside* news-reader software) to a USENET posting, from a message
sent to that _same_ address from _other_ mail-sending software.
This catches about 8% of all the garbage.
7) A _simple_ check for anything that _might_ be a virus. If it 'looks like'
a MS 'executable', I don't care _what_ it actually is; I've got no use
for it on my UNIX system. <grin>
I don't have to identify it as a virus, let alone _what_ virus. ONE
check for an executable is all it takes.
This one minimal check eliminates better than 70% of all incoming garbage.
The rejection notice specifies that a MS-DOS 'executable' was detected,
(probably a virus-infected sending machine), and tells the sender, if
they have real reason to send such a file, to contact the recipient
via PLAIN TEXT, to find out how to send such files 'acceptably'.
This check occurs 'late' in processing, even though it catches the most
stuff, because it none of the earlier checks look at the _body_ of the
message.
8) A similar check for PC 'zipfiles', since some viruses are using that
file format (_password_protected_, no less) to try to get past
'executable'-file virus-checkers. The scary part -- there *are* users
out there _dumb_enough_ to open one of those messages *and* type in
the password from the email when asked for it.
So far, -zero- hits on this filter, but it's 'ready and waiting'.
ALL of the 'rejections' and messages are part of the SMTP transaction.
No separate 'bounce' messages are ever generated.
It's simple, it's 100% automatic, it's _virtually_ maintenance-free,
and it is *so*effective* that email is boring.
Which is just the way I like it!
In article <[email protected]>,
Bruce Barnett <[email protected]> wrote:
>[email protected] (Andy Dingley) writes:
>
>> Where I shop, "powdered graphite" is very different stuff to "lock
>> lubricating graphite". If it's as a lubricant, then you want flake or
>> colloidal graphite. Just asking for powder (unless you specify it as a
>> lubricant) might get you anything from activated charcoal to
>> buckyballs.
>
>Buckyballs? Heck of a woodworking supply shop!
>I've heard of micro tools, but this opens up some new possibilities.
It's used for wood-fuller. <groan>
In article <[email protected]>,
Rob V <[email protected]> wrote:
>Anyone every use graphite spray for to lub the "innards" of their TS?
>
>I came across this :
>http://www.graphitestore.com/itemDetails.asp?item_id=441&prd_id=35&cat_id=10&curPage=1
>
>Ive read here that graphite powder is the best thing to useworks great - but
>were do you find it?
>
>I also came across this little receipe :
<...snipped...>
>I checked out my local pep boys and asked for graphite powder - they had no
>idea what I was talking about.
>
>Any help would be appreciated??
>
<...snipped...>
Look for a "dry lock lubricant". One product is named "lock-eze" or
something similar to that. As for the recipe, if you like mixing stuff
together like that, fine, but I get good results just using plain wax.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
In article <[email protected]>, "Rob V" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Ive read here that graphite powder is the best thing to useworks great - but
>were do you find it?
A real hardware store like an independent "Mom & Pop" hardware or Ace or
Tru-Value will have it.
So will Sears, in the hardware department.
Home centers like Lowe's or Home Depot might have it, but a real hardware
store is a better bet.
>
>I also came across this little receipe :
[snipped - it's been posted here before]
Note that you don't want to use graphite from a spray can for that recipe, you
want powdered graphite in a tube. Specifically, you want *dry* graphite; some
brands are graphite suspended in light machine oil, and you don't want that
either.
>
>I checked out my local pep boys and asked for graphite powder - they had no
>idea what I was talking about.
If you tell them it's for lubricating car door locks, they'll probably be able
to find it, even if they don't know what it is.
>
>Any help would be appreciated??
Any of the following:
- a real hardware store
- the hardware department at Sears
- an auto parts store where employees have at least half a clue (try a NAPA)
- a locksmith
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
For a copy of my TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter,
send email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
You must use your REAL email address to get a response.
For the love of god, don't you know women and
children might actually see this ?????
Andy Dingley wrote:
> Unisaw A100 <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>
>
>>So, do you wear tights when you're fighting spam?
>
>
> You'll wish you never asked:
> http://www.ibiblio.org/jmaynard/TRONcostume/
George wrote:
> It was my point. You were merely the first to use the phrase.
>
> Some lock lubricants also have oils and such, so you'd have to have
> specified dry.
The drone is going to point you at a shelf full of cans. You should be able
to read the labels yourself at that point.
> "Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> In article <[email protected]>, "George" <george@least> wrote:
>> >Yep, asking for powdered graphite versus graphite powder might have
>> >done the trick.
>>
>> Perhaps, but that wasn't the point. Rather, the idea was that while the
>> typical parts-store drone might have no idea what graphite is, there's a
>> decent chance he could point you toward the stuff that's used as door
>> lock lubricant.
>>
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
[email protected] (Andy Dingley) writes:
> Where I shop, "powdered graphite" is very different stuff to "lock
> lubricating graphite". If it's as a lubricant, then you want flake or
> colloidal graphite. Just asking for powder (unless you specify it as a
> lubricant) might get you anything from activated charcoal to
> buckyballs.
Buckyballs? Heck of a woodworking supply shop!
I've heard of micro tools, but this opens up some new possibilities.
--
Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.
"xrongor" <[email protected]> writes:
> do you find this does more harm than good? ive had to resist the urge
> several times to spam you...
>
> randy
>
>> --
>> Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
>> $500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.
You need a good template letter, customized to use the laws of
your state, and have to make it official. It does work occasionally,
and you can get money if you do the legwork.
It's also a great way to end an argument when a spammer tries to say
that I granted permission. (Notice that each address I use is
unique/tagged). I can point to the exact USENET posting where someone
harvested my address for spamming. But many spammers hide behind
layers and layers of obfuscation, so I use it when necessary.
It also states very clearly that I have NEVER granted permission.
(It's only one of several techniques I use to fight spam.)
--
Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.
Unisaw A100 <[email protected]> writes:
> Bruce Barnett wrote:
>>(It's only one of several techniques I use to fight spam.)
>
> So, do you wear tights when you're fighting spam?
Spandex. But only at night.
I just hope no one finds out my secret identity. :-)
--
Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.
[email protected] (Andy Dingley) writes:
> Unisaw A100 <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>
>> So, do you wear tights when you're fighting spam?
>
> You'll wish you never asked:
> http://www.ibiblio.org/jmaynard/TRONcostume/
My eyes! My eyes!
--
Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.
In article <[email protected]>,
Andy Dingley <[email protected]> wrote:
>"George" <george@least> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>
>> Yep, asking for powdered graphite versus graphite powder might have done
>> the trick.
>
>Where I shop, "powdered graphite" is very different stuff to "lock
>lubricating graphite". If it's as a lubricant, then you want flake or
>colloidal graphite. Just asking for powder (unless you specify it as a
>lubricant) might get you anything from activated charcoal to
>buckyballs.
>
>BTW - When you've used this stuff, put it away _carefully_ and don;t
>store it in glass. You wouldn't believe the mess if you drop it.
*I* believe! Oh boy *DO*I*BELIEVE*!!!
You *never* get it all up. Never!
In article <[email protected]>, "George" <george@least> wrote:
>Yep, asking for powdered graphite versus graphite powder might have done
>the trick.
Perhaps, but that wasn't the point. Rather, the idea was that while the
typical parts-store drone might have no idea what graphite is, there's a
decent chance he could point you toward the stuff that's used as door lock
lubricant.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
For a copy of my TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter,
send email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
You must use your REAL email address to get a response.
In article <[email protected]>,
Pat Barber <[email protected]> wrote:
> For the love of god, don't you know women and
> children might actually see this ?????
Good God! That makes me oh so thankful I'm hetero - especially that rear
view...
--
Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company
Offering a shim for the Porter-Cable 557 type 2 fence design.
<http://www.flybynightcoppercompany.com>
<http://www.easystreet.com/~onlnlowe/index.html>
Even Better. Try graphite in a paint. this is a clear paint with the
graphite in it. It works great for all woodworking equipment,
lawnmower decks snowblower chutes, It was originally made for grain
handling equipment ( on the farm). I grew up on a farm & originally
used it on grain wagons ( hopper wagons) to help the grain slide out
when dumping them. The uses are limited to your imagination.
It is available in most farm supply stores under the brand name of
"Slip Plate"
http://www.mytscstore.com/detail.asp?pcID=4&paID=1031&sonID=74&productID=2296
Frank
On Wed, 12 May 2004 12:26:52 GMT, "Rob V" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Anyone every use graphite spray for to lub the "innards" of their TS?
>
>I came across this :
>http://www.graphitestore.com/itemDetails.asp?item_id=441&prd_id=35&cat_id=10&curPage=1
>
>Ive read here that graphite powder is the best thing to useworks great - but
>were do you find it?
>
>I also came across this little receipe :
>"Buy a small package of dry graphite powder at your local auto supply
>store (~$2). Get one of the large baby glass jars (one step up from
>the small ones) and pour 1/2 of the graphite into the jar. Now start
>adding a spoonful or two of Johnson's or Butchers wax and stir well.
>Keep adding graphite, wax and mixing until the jar is about 3/4 full.
>This should give you a very black looking wax full of graphite to lube
>your gears and it will not attract sawdust. If needed, add a drop or
>two of mineral spirits to thin if the wax is hard - but not to much.
>If you add to much, leave the lid off the jar for a few days so it can
>evaporate out."
>
>I checked out my local pep boys and asked for graphite powder - they had no
>idea what I was talking about.
>
>Any help would be appreciated??
>
>Thanks
>
>