I have a Dewalt 18 volt drill and like it very much except for one thing. Since new,
the chuck slips when the drilling gets heavy even with a half inch bit. It is a PITA.
Is there anything *I* can do to minimize or eliminate this? Is it possible and
feasible to get into the clutch to clean or adjust it? Do all keyless chucks act this
way?
Hoyt W.
On Thu, 27 May 2004 11:59:57 -0500, Tim Douglass wrote
(in article <[email protected]>):
> By contrast, my old Milwaukee 3/8 corded drill has suffered all sorts
> of falls without any evident damage other than cosmetic.
Well, you said the magic word in my opinion. Milwaukee. I own two cordless,
chuckless drills, one a Porter Cable and one a Milwaukee. The PC is
worthless. The chuck doesn't slip, but after daily abuse for 6 months, it
developed a wobble in the chuck that will require the chuck to be replaced to
fix. The Milwaukee on the other hand has a full metal chuck (unlike the metal
and plastic version on the PC drill) and has taken every type of abuse I can
throw at it. There is a reason in test after test by magazines and
construction trade rags that Milwaukee's gear is always at the top, it's
designed to last. Every time I go into the BORG and see boxes of Ryobi tools
walking out the door I keep wondering how long it will be before that person
is replacing it. I personally don't want disposable tools any more. I want
tools that I can pass along to daughter who loves to help me build things.
Wayne
My experience is just as yours.
I can recall many years ago, when Keyless chucks were rare and
expensive, using them on milling machines.
They worked just fine, and the demands were much more arduous on a
miller.
My conclusion, keyless chucks on lo-cost price competitive tools are
just c**p, and should be replaced with a keyed type.
On Fri, 28 May 2004 03:53:37 GMT, "Mike Hide" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I brought this up a couple of months ago and I seemed the only one with this
>slipping problem . I would like to replace my keyless chucks with keyed ones
>.
>
>I dont know I folks know this but keyed chucks can be tightened he same way
>keyless ones are . I have been tightening chucks that way for 50 years only
>using a chuck key when doing heavy drilling operations.....mjh
John Hewitt ... Malaga ... Spain
>heh. there's a world of difference between a "good" keyless like say
>an Albrecht and the cheezy keyless chucks that get put on cordless
>drills.
I only have a imported 55.00 chuck on my drill press it works fine. but it takes
two hands to tighten it.
--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
>What does help is to use some inertia when tightening. For example if I
>want my chuck to maximum tightness, I will close the jaws to almost closed
>on the bit. Put the drill on the fast gear reduction, hold the chuck and
>let the drill slam it home. The result is much tighter than just using the
>low gear reduction to drive it closed. Mine is a 14.4v PC.
if the drill does not have a lock then you need both hands to tighten the chuck.
if you just use the drill motor power it will not be tight enough. that's why I
get a drill that locks the shaft when it is off. that way you only need one hand
to tighten the chuck.
--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
Pounds on Wood wrote:
<snip>
>
>
> What does help is to use some inertia when tightening. For example if I
> want my chuck to maximum tightness, I will close the jaws to almost closed
> on the bit. Put the drill on the fast gear reduction, hold the chuck and
> let the drill slam it home. The result is much tighter than just using the
> low gear reduction to drive it closed. Mine is a 14.4v PC.
<snip>
Now THAT sounds like something which may help. TKX a heap.
Hoyt W.
I have a DW 14.4v that slips. I cleaned and lubricated the inside of the
chuck which helped a bit. Lowes has a new BD chuck that I've considered
putting on the drill. It costs about $30 dollars. If I decide to go that
route, I'll probably see about buying a chuck from DW.
"Hoyt Weathers" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a Dewalt 18 volt drill and like it very much except for one thing.
Since new,
> the chuck slips when the drilling gets heavy even with a half inch bit. It
is a PITA.
> Is there anything *I* can do to minimize or eliminate this? Is it possible
and
> feasible to get into the clutch to clean or adjust it? Do all keyless
chucks act this
> way?
> Hoyt W.
>
Another way is to use a Snappy or equivalent. They have a hex shaft. I
have a few of the various drill bits that fit it, and also an adapter that
lets it use any drill bit with a 3/8" shaft (intended for Kreg bits). It's
a PITA to need special drill bits though.
--
********
Bill Pounds
http://www.billpounds.com
"Tim Douglass" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 26 May 2004 09:36:34 -0500, Hoyt Weathers <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >I have a Dewalt 18 volt drill and like it very much except for one thing.
Since new,
> >the chuck slips when the drilling gets heavy even with a half inch bit.
It is a PITA.
> >Is there anything *I* can do to minimize or eliminate this? Is it
possible and
> >feasible to get into the clutch to clean or adjust it? Do all keyless
chucks act this
> >way?
> >Hoyt W.
>
> Every keyless chuck I've used has this problem to a greater or lesser
> extent. There are two solutions, one is to get bits that have flats on
> them (3 or 6), the other is to replace the chuck with a keyed one.
> This is the reason my old corded drills still get a lot of use, even
> though the new cordless ones are powerful enough for just about
> everything I do.
>
> Tim Douglass
>
> http://www.DouglassClan.com
On Thu, 27 May 2004 19:23:13 GMT, "Pounds on Wood" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I guess there must be good chucks out there. Sounds like the cost more than
>the whole drill kit so I probably won't own one. Keys are fine for me on
>stationary tools. My 14.4 PC has more torque than I can hold by hand
>without creating blisters on my palm after a few bit changes. (no palm
>blister jokes please) And the chuck is not designed with enough area for
>two hands. I guess you get what you pay for.
my chuck on my drill press is just an imported one. it works pretty well. a
cordless drill really needs a quill lock to make it easy to tighten the chuck.
--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
I brought this up a couple of months ago and I seemed the only one with this
slipping problem . I would like to replace my keyless chucks with keyed ones
.
I dont know I folks know this but keyed chucks can be tightened he same way
keyless ones are . I have been tightening chucks that way for 50 years only
using a chuck key when doing heavy drilling operations.....mjh
--
http://members.tripod.com/mikehide2
"Hoyt Weathers" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a Dewalt 18 volt drill and like it very much except for one thing.
Since new,
> the chuck slips when the drilling gets heavy even with a half inch bit. It
is a PITA.
> Is there anything *I* can do to minimize or eliminate this? Is it possible
and
> feasible to get into the clutch to clean or adjust it? Do all keyless
chucks act this
> way?
> Hoyt W.
>
I guess there must be good chucks out there. Sounds like the cost more than
the whole drill kit so I probably won't own one. Keys are fine for me on
stationary tools. My 14.4 PC has more torque than I can hold by hand
without creating blisters on my palm after a few bit changes. (no palm
blister jokes please) And the chuck is not designed with enough area for
two hands. I guess you get what you pay for.
--
********
Bill Pounds
http://www.billpounds.com
"Steve Knight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>> if the drill does not have a lock then you need both hands to tighten the
chuck.
> if you just use the drill motor power it will not be tight enough. that's
why I
> get a drill that locks the shaft when it is off. that way you only need
one hand
> to tighten the chuck.
>
> --
> Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
> Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
> See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
On Wed, 26 May 2004 09:36:34 -0500, Hoyt Weathers <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I have a Dewalt 18 volt drill and like it very much except for one thing. Since new,
>the chuck slips when the drilling gets heavy even with a half inch bit. It is a PITA.
>Is there anything *I* can do to minimize or eliminate this? Is it possible and
>feasible to get into the clutch to clean or adjust it? Do all keyless chucks act this
>way?
>Hoyt W.
Every keyless chuck I've used has this problem to a greater or lesser
extent. There are two solutions, one is to get bits that have flats on
them (3 or 6), the other is to replace the chuck with a keyed one.
This is the reason my old corded drills still get a lot of use, even
though the new cordless ones are powerful enough for just about
everything I do.
Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com
"Hoyt Weathers" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a Dewalt 18 volt drill and like it very much except for one thing.
Since new,
> the chuck slips when the drilling gets heavy even with a half inch bit. It
is a PITA.
> Is there anything *I* can do to minimize or eliminate this? Is it possible
and
> feasible to get into the clutch to clean or adjust it? Do all keyless
chucks act this
> way?
> Hoyt W.
Some people have a problem with slipping chucks. I have a keyless on a
Panasonic and 2 DeWalts and do and have nor ever had a slipping problem.
My drills however are 9.6 volt. Also I have a keyless on a DeWalt corded
drill and have witnessed the slipping on the larger bits. The clutch has
nothing to do with the way a chuck grips. Getting into the clutch may
improve the way the clutch works but will not improve the grip of the chuck.
If you are using a hi torque drill with a 1/2" bit, you may simply not be
tightening the chuck enough. Many bits over 3/8" in size have the ends
ground flat in 3 places so that the bit is no longer round and will better
engage the jaws of the chuck. This is done to insure that the chuck does
not slip on the bit. Many better bits have been manufactured this way long
before key less chucks were main stream. Large bits simply have much more
bite and are more prone to grab and cause slipping especially on a higher
torque drill.
In article <[email protected]>, auto119042
@hotmail.com says...
> Do the Albrecht chicks --<snip>
No problem with those chicks on my chuck <G>
--
Phillip Hansen
Skil-Phil Solutions
"Hoyt Weathers" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a Dewalt 18 volt drill and like it very much except for one thing.
Since new,
> the chuck slips when the drilling gets heavy even with a half inch bit. It
is a PITA.
> Is there anything *I* can do to minimize or eliminate this? Is it possible
and
> feasible to get into the clutch to clean or adjust it? Do all keyless
chucks act this
> way?
> Hoyt W.
>
I have 14.4 v. Makita and Craftsman, 9.8 B&D, and a couple of Craftsman
corded drills with keyless chucks that I haven't found to slip. In one of
the Craftsman cordeds, there is a strong tendency to resist releasing the
bit when in reverse but then the chuck comes off the shaft. Irritating so I
seldom use the cordeds - that along with the wires makes them a hassle. I
may get a couple of good 18 volts. Anyone have a favourite?
Agkistrodon
I use 1/2" keyless Albrecht chucks on a regular basis. They do not slip. I
have used them on milling machines to drill 1 1/4" holes in steel plate. No
problem. It would look a bit funny on your portable drill but if you want a
good one on your drill press, there are none finer. List price: $225.00.
Good ones are made just not at Home Depot prices.
"Pounds on Wood" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm convinced they all slip when the going gets tough. They belong on
> smaller capacity chucks IMO, and I would never put one on a drill press
for
> example. Unless your chuck seems sticky or sluggish when turning by hand,
I
> would not expect cleaning it to help.
>
> What does help is to use some inertia when tightening. For example if I
> want my chuck to maximum tightness, I will close the jaws to almost closed
> on the bit. Put the drill on the fast gear reduction, hold the chuck and
> let the drill slam it home. The result is much tighter than just using
the
> low gear reduction to drive it closed. Mine is a 14.4v PC.
>
> --
> ********
> Bill Pounds
> http://www.billpounds.com
>
>
> "Hoyt Weathers" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I have a Dewalt 18 volt drill and like it very much except for one
thing.
> Since new,
> > the chuck slips when the drilling gets heavy even with a half inch bit.
It
> is a PITA.
> > Is there anything *I* can do to minimize or eliminate this? Is it
possible
> and
> > feasible to get into the clutch to clean or adjust it? Do all keyless
> chucks act this
> > way?
> > Hoyt W.
> >
>
>
On Wed, 26 May 2004 19:03:20 GMT, "Pounds on Wood" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I'm convinced they all slip when the going gets tough. They belong on
>smaller capacity chucks IMO, and I would never put one on a drill press for
>example. Unless your chuck seems sticky or sluggish when turning by hand, I
>would not expect cleaning it to help.
nope a good keyless chuck is actually stronger then a normal chuck. I have one
on my drill press. it works great. it's a 5/8" chuck and has no problems.
--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
I'm convinced they all slip when the going gets tough. They belong on
smaller capacity chucks IMO, and I would never put one on a drill press for
example. Unless your chuck seems sticky or sluggish when turning by hand, I
would not expect cleaning it to help.
What does help is to use some inertia when tightening. For example if I
want my chuck to maximum tightness, I will close the jaws to almost closed
on the bit. Put the drill on the fast gear reduction, hold the chuck and
let the drill slam it home. The result is much tighter than just using the
low gear reduction to drive it closed. Mine is a 14.4v PC.
--
********
Bill Pounds
http://www.billpounds.com
"Hoyt Weathers" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a Dewalt 18 volt drill and like it very much except for one thing.
Since new,
> the chuck slips when the drilling gets heavy even with a half inch bit. It
is a PITA.
> Is there anything *I* can do to minimize or eliminate this? Is it possible
and
> feasible to get into the clutch to clean or adjust it? Do all keyless
chucks act this
> way?
> Hoyt W.
>
I have a couple keyless chucks that work fine. One is on a Dewalt
corded drill and the other on a Ryobi cordless. I have a Makita keyed
chuck that is worthless.
Dick
> http://members.tripod.com/mikehide2
> "Hoyt Weathers" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I have a Dewalt 18 volt drill and like it very much except for one
> > thing.
> Since new,
> > the chuck slips when the drilling gets heavy even with a half inch bit.
> > It
> is a PITA.
> > Is there anything *I* can do to minimize or eliminate this? Is it
> > possible
> and
> > feasible to get into the clutch to clean or adjust it? Do all keyless
> chucks act this
> > way?
> > Hoyt W.
> >
>
On Wed, 26 May 2004 13:54:57 -0700, Tim Douglass <[email protected]>
>Every keyless chuck I've used has this problem to a greater or lesser
>extent. There are two solutions, one is to get bits that have flats on
>them (3 or 6), the other is to replace the chuck with a keyed one.
>This is the reason my old corded drills still get a lot of use, even
>though the new cordless ones are powerful enough for just about
>everything I do.
if used right most keyless chucks have more torque then a keyed chuck. but you
need to use both hands to tighten if there is not a spindle lock.
of course cheap chucks don't help. but my metabo never slips and I can chance
bits all day long. but it is cool and only requires one hand.
--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
On Thu, 27 May 2004 05:18:44 GMT, Steve Knight
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Wed, 26 May 2004 13:54:57 -0700, Tim Douglass <[email protected]>
>
>>Every keyless chuck I've used has this problem to a greater or lesser
>>extent. There are two solutions, one is to get bits that have flats on
>>them (3 or 6), the other is to replace the chuck with a keyed one.
>>This is the reason my old corded drills still get a lot of use, even
>>though the new cordless ones are powerful enough for just about
>>everything I do.
>
>if used right most keyless chucks have more torque then a keyed chuck. but you
>need to use both hands to tighten if there is not a spindle lock.
> of course cheap chucks don't help. but my metabo never slips and I can chance
>bits all day long. but it is cool and only requires one hand.
The Jacobs keyless on my 14.4V drill has too narrow a band for me to
get a hand on it and use both hands to tighten. Sure, I could grab the
channel locks and reef it down, but that sort of defeats the whole
"tool-less" idea. I'm sure the serious professional stuff works fine,
but I'm not spending 300+ on a drill just to drop it 8' onto concrete
again. I've actually gone to the cheap HF cordless drills because I
don't feel so bad when I break one.
By contrast, my old Milwaukee 3/8 corded drill has suffered all sorts
of falls without any evident damage other than cosmetic.
Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com
O
>The Jacobs keyless on my 14.4V drill has too narrow a band for me to
>get a hand on it and use both hands to tighten. Sure, I could grab the
>channel locks and reef it down, but that sort of defeats the whole
>"tool-less" idea. I'm sure the serious professional stuff works fine,
>but I'm not spending 300+ on a drill just to drop it 8' onto concrete
>again. I've actually gone to the cheap HF cordless drills because I
>don't feel so bad when I break one.
>
that's a poorly designed chuck. but my metabo drill was only 169.00 and is as
tuff as nails. and a great chuck.
--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
On Fri, 28 May 2004 08:33:35 -0700, Richard Cline <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>I have a couple keyless chucks that work fine. One is on a Dewalt
>corded drill and the other on a Ryobi cordless. I have a Makita keyed
>chuck that is worthless.
>
>Dick
the nicest chuck I own is an albrecht keyless. it's on a taper to fit
the tailstock of my lathe. I wish I could afford to have those for all
of my chucks....
A good chek for a quality chuck is its ability to hold a 1/16" drill bit
securely .......mjh
--
http://members.tripod.com/mikehide2
"Richard Cline" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I have a couple keyless chucks that work fine. One is on a Dewalt
> corded drill and the other on a Ryobi cordless. I have a Makita keyed
> chuck that is worthless.
>
> Dick
>
>
> > http://members.tripod.com/mikehide2
> > "Hoyt Weathers" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > I have a Dewalt 18 volt drill and like it very much except for one
> > > thing.
> > Since new,
> > > the chuck slips when the drilling gets heavy even with a half inch
bit.
> > > It
> > is a PITA.
> > > Is there anything *I* can do to minimize or eliminate this? Is it
> > > possible
> > and
> > > feasible to get into the clutch to clean or adjust it? Do all keyless
> > chucks act this
> > > way?
> > > Hoyt W.
> > >
> >
On Thu, 27 May 2004 05:14:37 GMT, Steve Knight
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Wed, 26 May 2004 19:03:20 GMT, "Pounds on Wood" <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>I'm convinced they all slip when the going gets tough. They belong on
>>smaller capacity chucks IMO, and I would never put one on a drill press for
>>example. Unless your chuck seems sticky or sluggish when turning by hand, I
>>would not expect cleaning it to help.
>
>nope a good keyless chuck is actually stronger then a normal chuck. I have one
>on my drill press. it works great. it's a 5/8" chuck and has no problems.
heh. there's a world of difference between a "good" keyless like say
an Albrecht and the cheezy keyless chucks that get put on cordless
drills.
Different animal entirely.
I have been told by several reps of portable drills
that the method you describe is NOT the correct way,
even though I use a similar method.
I have a Bosch 12.0 and their rep tells me that the
"correct" way is to grasp the lower part and twist it
while holding the upper portion of the chuck.
I use his method and the chuck still slips at times.
I use your method and the chuck still slips.
I think they all slip.
Pounds on Wood wrote:
> I'm convinced they all slip when the going gets tough. They belong on
> smaller capacity chucks IMO, and I would never put one on a drill press for
> example. Unless your chuck seems sticky or sluggish when turning by hand, I
> would not expect cleaning it to help.
>
> What does help is to use some inertia when tightening. For example if I
> want my chuck to maximum tightness, I will close the jaws to almost closed
> on the bit. Put the drill on the fast gear reduction, hold the chuck and
> let the drill slam it home. The result is much tighter than just using the
> low gear reduction to drive it closed. Mine is a 14.4v PC.
>
> --
> ********
> Bill Pounds
> http://www.billpounds.com
>
>
> "Hoyt Weathers" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>I have a Dewalt 18 volt drill and like it very much except for one thing.
>
> Since new,
>
>>the chuck slips when the drilling gets heavy even with a half inch bit. It
>
> is a PITA.
>
>>Is there anything *I* can do to minimize or eliminate this? Is it possible
>
> and
>
>>feasible to get into the clutch to clean or adjust it? Do all keyless
>
> chucks act this
>
>>way?
>>Hoyt W.
>>
>
>
>
On Fri, 28 May 2004 03:53:37 GMT, "Mike Hide" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I brought this up a couple of months ago and I seemed the only one with this
>slipping problem . I would like to replace my keyless chucks with keyed ones
>.
>
>I dont know I folks know this but keyed chucks can be tightened he same way
>keyless ones are . I have been tightening chucks that way for 50 years only
>using a chuck key when doing heavy drilling operations.....mjh
Good point, Mike. So have I.
To the OP...
Clean up the inside real good every now and then. I use alcohol to
get all the grime off...then hit it with a medium-tooth file to rough
it up a bit. I seem to get about 3 months or so out of 'em this
way...then need to clean again.
And the same should be done to the bits, too.
But that doesn't solve the problem entirely. You just can't get the
same torque by hand that you can with a tool.
Good luck.
Have a nice week...
Trent©
Follow Joan Rivers' example --- get pre-embalmed!
"Hoyt Weathers" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a Dewalt 18 volt drill and like it very much except for one thing.
Since new,
> the chuck slips when the drilling gets heavy even with a half inch bit. It
is a PITA.
> Is there anything *I* can do to minimize or eliminate this? Is it possible
and
> feasible to get into the clutch to clean or adjust it? Do all keyless
chucks act this
> way?
> Hoyt W.
Do you mean the jaws of your keyless chuck slip or the torque setting of
your clutch slips?
Many clutches can be set up for increased torque & some can't, older
Makita's for instance can have one or two torque washers added to beef up
the clutch, some makes if you remove the chuck & open the clamshell can have
the torque increased by turning the change ring back a notch or two, some
have a threaded inner clutch cam that can be rotated forward so that when
you replace the change ring in the correct position the torque is increased
considerably. DeWalt have used a few different style clutches, not normally
prone to slipping unless the clutch housing assembly has cracked.
Sometime if the hi/lo shifter does not fully engage the orbital gears the
clutch will appear to slip when actually it is the gears slipping out, this
may be due to dirt, lack of lubrication, worn gears or bent or worn shifter
mechanism.
If it is the chucks jaws that slip, replace the chuck with a better quality
one...there are some excellent heavier duty keyless chucks available these
days, some with a very effective lock once tightened.
--
© Jon Down ®
Need blades??
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