"Trent©" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> You don't get sawdust with this blade...you get POWDER. Really a
> great blade.
Umm...With the exception of sanding, I cannot think of any tool that you
want powder as a result of the procedure being used. Getting powder instead
of shavings or saw dust is usually a pretty good indicator that your edge is
in need of sharpening.
"Groggy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> BTW, you did not specify why you thought it was a crappy blade in the
first
> place - is it really? Or is it the culmination of a number of other
problems
> being highlighted by the poor cut?
>
I saw an ad. for the Forrest Woodworker II, they showed the difference in
wood cut on other saw blades and on theirs. My saw cuts look like their
picture of how "other" saw blades cut. I would like for the surface of the
wood to be fairly smooth without jointing, planing, or sanding.
"RogerN" wrote ..
> I saw an ad. for the Forrest Woodworker II, they showed the difference in
> wood cut on other saw blades and on theirs. My saw cuts look like their
> picture of how "other" saw blades cut. I would like for the surface of
the
> wood to be fairly smooth without jointing, planing, or sanding.
Roger, to keep it brief, I would not waste too much money on a blade that is
beyond the capability of the saw. Try Silvan's advice of"Freud TK960 thin
kerf 40-tooth (I think) combination blade for $35" or Trent's suggestion of
a hollow ground planer blade from Sears. Put the money saved towards a real
saw for later.
My opinion only, others' mileage may vary.
good luck,
Greg
On Mon, 01 Dec 2003 23:44:36 GMT, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Yes a good blade will always be better than a bad blade regardless of the
>saw you use it on.
and when you pitch the POS saw you can keep the blade for whatever you
move up to....
>
>
>"RogerN" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>
>> I have a <$200 Craftsman direct drive table saw, would it improve the cut
>> much to use an expensive saw blade? I'm sure a low vibration saw and a
>low
>> vibration blade is best, but perhaps a good blade would be a significant
>> improvment even on a direct drive saw.
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>>
>>
>
There is no simple answer really. If you are working on melamine or sheet
goods and have significant arbor float, I'd say no, forget it. A better
blade won't stop arbour float and the resultant chip-out that will occur.
Furthermore, if you are cutting wood and hoping for a finished edge, ready
for glue up - forget it. Buy a plane and cut to close dimension only, then
plane down to the finished size.
The basic idea is if you are getting rough wavy effects when cutting, the
best you can hope for might be smooth wavy effects.
BTW, you did not specify why you thought it was a crappy blade in the first
place - is it really? Or is it the culmination of a number of other problems
being highlighted by the poor cut?
My 2c worth.
Greg
"RogerN" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I have a <$200 Craftsman direct drive table saw, would it improve the cut
> much to use an expensive saw blade? I'm sure a low vibration saw and a
low
> vibration blade is best, but perhaps a good blade would be a significant
> improvment even on a direct drive saw.
>
> Thanks!
>
>
>
Yes a good blade will always be better than a bad blade regardless of the
saw you use it on.
"RogerN" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I have a <$200 Craftsman direct drive table saw, would it improve the cut
> much to use an expensive saw blade? I'm sure a low vibration saw and a
low
> vibration blade is best, but perhaps a good blade would be a significant
> improvment even on a direct drive saw.
>
> Thanks!
>
>
>
Mon, Dec 1, 2003, 11:44pm (EST+5) [email protected] (Leon)
says:
Yes a good blade will always be better than a bad blade regardless of
the saw you use it on.
And, you will note, Leon said "good", rather than "expensive".
Somethieme they aren't the one and the same.
JOAT
People think that professional soldiers think a lot about fighting, but
serious professional soldiers think a lot more about food and a warm
place to sleep, because these are two things that are generally hard to
get, whereas fighting tends to turn up all the time.
- General Friit
Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
Web Page Update 30 Nov 2003.
Some tunes I like.
http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/SOMETUNESILIKE/
AS long as you don't have too much arbor runout, a nice blade will do
wonders for any TS. A TS's job is to spin a blade with no runout, with
enough power to make a cut, and provide a stable platform for the work
piece. If your TS can do that, the blade will do the rest. No need for
a WWII; lots of guys like the Freud's. I use a WWII, love it, but there
are other cheaper alternatives. Be sure you get the type of blade for
the particular type of work; ie ripping, crosscutting. I just got
another blade today JUST for Melamine. My WWII, as good as it is,
leaves the bottom side a bit chipped out, even though the top side is
darned near perfect. On some projects, "good" isn't good enough.
dave
RogerN wrote:
> I have a <$200 Craftsman direct drive table saw, would it improve the cut
> much to use an expensive saw blade? I'm sure a low vibration saw and a low
> vibration blade is best, but perhaps a good blade would be a significant
> improvment even on a direct drive saw.
>
> Thanks!
>
>
>
On Mon 01 Dec 2003 05:44:36p, "Leon" <[email protected]>
wrote in news:[email protected]:
> Yes a good blade will always be better than a bad blade regardless of
> the saw you use it on.
>
No argument with that statement, but the degree of improvement may not be
enough. I put a good Freud blade on my used Craftsman table saw. The arbor
still wobbled and the height adjustment still wandered wherever it wanted
to go. The cuts were a much better grade of lousy. It DID point out to me
that I needed a better saw.
But what the heck. If and when you do upgrade, you'll still have the saw
blade. Can't go wrong there.
Dan
On Mon, 01 Dec 2003 22:33:43 GMT, "RogerN" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>I have a <$200 Craftsman direct drive table saw, would it improve the cut
>much to use an expensive saw blade? I'm sure a low vibration saw and a low
>vibration blade is best, but perhaps a good blade would be a significant
>improvment even on a direct drive saw.
Go to Sears and get a hollow ground planer blade. Its like night and
day on the performance. Most of the cuts I get are ready for glue-up
right from the saw. And I'm using an $89 table saw! lol
I think I paid about $12 for the blade. I coulda got the more
expensive one...the carbide tipped. But I'm too cheap...and I sharpen
my own blades on a scheduled basis.
You don't get sawdust with this blade...you get POWDER. Really a
great blade.
Good luck.
Have a nice week...
Trent
Dyslexics of the world ... UNTIE !
In article <[email protected]>,
Silvan <[email protected]> wrote:
> ...
>I didn't go for the WWII, since it would have cost twice what I paid for the
>saw, and about 10 times what the saw is actually worth. I picked up a
>Freud TK960 thin kerf 40-tooth (I think) combination blade for $35, and the
>difference between it and the factory blade I had on the saw was marked. I
I did somewhat the same - I got a B&D Piranha blade. It cost half
what the saw cost. :-) But it does a wonderful job - the cuts are so
smooth that the feel as if they have been sanded. I've never felt that
I overspent on the blade.
--
--henry schaffer
[email protected]
RogerN wrote:
> much to use an expensive saw blade? I'm sure a low vibration saw and a
Never did say what kind of blade you have now, did you?
I didn't go for the WWII, since it would have cost twice what I paid for the
saw, and about 10 times what the saw is actually worth. I picked up a
Freud TK960 thin kerf 40-tooth (I think) combination blade for $35, and the
difference between it and the factory blade I had on the saw was marked. I
felt like that was a good way to go, considering what I was putting it on.
I was afraid I might somehow damage a WWII by bolting it to this POS
saw. :)
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 01 Dec 2003 23:44:36 GMT, "Leon"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Yes a good blade will always be better than a bad blade regardless of the
> >saw you use it on.
>
>
> and when you pitch the POS saw you can keep the blade for whatever you
> move up to....
>
A pair of good blades (one used thin-kerf, one new carbide) along with some
very good
tips from this list really improved the performance on my <$200 Sears,
direct drive saw.
A mis-aligned rip fence and a missing (removed) guard were the biggest
offenders.
Search back a few days for 'underpowered table saw'.
> >
> >
> >"RogerN" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >>
> >> I have a <$200 Craftsman direct drive table saw, would it improve the
cut
> >> much to use an expensive saw blade? I'm sure a low vibration saw and a
> >low
> >> vibration blade is best, but perhaps a good blade would be a
significant
> >> improvment even on a direct drive saw.
> >>
> >> Thanks!
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
>
On a direct drive saw, you might want to look into a good, thin-kerf blade
as that will require less power from the saw (you're removing less
material). Also, use blade stiffeners and do your best tuning up your saw
(alignment and vibration).
"RogerN" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I have a <$200 Craftsman direct drive table saw, would it improve the cut
> much to use an expensive saw blade? I'm sure a low vibration saw and a
low
> vibration blade is best, but perhaps a good blade would be a significant
> improvment even on a direct drive saw.
>
> Thanks!
>
>
>