I'm able to do a fairly decent job with the other tools in the shop, but I
don't seem to be able to get a belt sander within a foot of a piece of wood
without destroying it. It digs in, slides off and rounds edges, leaves
belt-edge marks, and generally messes up what I'm working on. I can't judge
where it is, and have trouble keeping it square.
Is this just me, or is this a hard tool to learn to use properly? What do
people use them for, and how do you get the proper results?
Lionel
Pensacola, FL, on the Redneck Riviera
Thanks for the advice. I think I was expecting it to do more delicate work.
If I have it right, it's first the chainsaw, then the belt sander, then a
ROS.
As to different grits, we mainly just have yellow and white here.
Quick-cooking grits are all right, but the instant ones don't have a good
texture. SWMBO does a pretty good cheese-and-spinach grits casserole.
Thanks again.
Lionel
"Lionel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm able to do a fairly decent job with the other tools in the shop, but I
> don't seem to be able to get a belt sander within a foot of a piece of
wood
> without destroying it. It digs in, slides off and rounds edges, leaves
> belt-edge marks, and generally messes up what I'm working on. I can't
judge
> where it is, and have trouble keeping it square.
>
> Is this just me, or is this a hard tool to learn to use properly? What do
> people use them for, and how do you get the proper results?
>
> Lionel
> Pensacola, FL, on the Redneck Riviera
>
>
It's like the old joke "How do I get to Carnegie Hall"?
Practice. Like the other guys said these are for rough shaping and removing
lots of material but as you get more comfortable with it you can do some finer
work. Grab the thing with both hands and control it. You really don't have to
push down, in fact sometimes you are lifting it up a little. Also get a wide
selection of grits.
I have seen some complaints but I have had good luck with Norton blue belts.
They seem a lot better than the no name red belts from Harbor Freight.
You are still going to need a finish sander or a block of wood and some sheets.
A hand-held belt sander has made more converts to planes than anything else
out there, I'll wager.
On hardwoods they burn and burnish so quickly even at 100 grit that they're
worse than useless. Difficulty is that you have to use fine coordination
on a rough job. Mindset is difficult to overcome.
"Lionel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm able to do a fairly decent job with the other tools in the shop, but I
> don't seem to be able to get a belt sander within a foot of a piece of
wood
> without destroying it. It digs in, slides off and rounds edges, leaves
> belt-edge marks, and generally messes up what I'm working on. I can't
judge
> where it is, and have trouble keeping it square.
>
> Is this just me, or is this a hard tool to learn to use properly? What do
> people use them for, and how do you get the proper results?
>
Please tell me you take the dust bag off when sharpening.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have tried many times over the years to tame my belt sander. Have
> been unsuccessful so far. When i bought it I also got the stand. It
> normaly stays in the stand and is very useful there. I using it for
> sanding small pieces and for sharpening tools. It sharpens everything
> from lawnmor blades to lathe tools. its not the ultimate sharpener but
> it sure is the handiest.
> Ken makin dust in NS
On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 11:20:22 -0500, "Mike G"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>The best thing you can do to tame a belt sander is to give it to someone you
>don't like particularly well.
>
>Unless you put it in a stand and use it as a sanding station they are
>project ruining accidents waiting to happen and have little use outside of
>rough construction.
>
>You want to take off material or flatten and smooth a panel use a hand plane
>and scrapers.
I have tried many times over the years to tame my belt sander. Have
been unsuccessful so far. When i bought it I also got the stand. It
normaly stays in the stand and is very useful there. I using it for
sanding small pieces and for sharpening tools. It sharpens everything
from lawnmor blades to lathe tools. its not the ultimate sharpener but
it sure is the handiest.
Ken makin dust in NS
I have found it best to gently lift the belt sander so that it just kisses
the work. After a few minutes of this, if all is well, good belt tracking,
no tendency to dig in, etc, I let the weight of the sander do the work.
Dave
"CW" <no adddress@spam free.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Exactly. Ever run a floor buffer? Try to muscle it around and it will kick
> your ass. Same with the belt sander. Just gently steer it.
>
> "Mike Hide" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:fykHb.476083$Dw6.1396842@attbi_s02...
> > Easy get one with the motor on top and the widest belt available .When
in
> > use just let the weight of the machine do the work all you need to do is
> > guide it . If it is not removing enough wood increase the belt grit dont
> try
> > and apply more pressure ....mjh
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "Lionel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > I'm able to do a fairly decent job with the other tools in the shop,
but
> I
> > > don't seem to be able to get a belt sander within a foot of a piece of
> > wood
> > > without destroying it. It digs in, slides off and rounds edges,
leaves
> > > belt-edge marks, and generally messes up what I'm working on. I can't
> > judge
> > > where it is, and have trouble keeping it square.
> > >
> > > Is this just me, or is this a hard tool to learn to use properly?
What
> do
> > > people use them for, and how do you get the proper results?
> > >
> > > Lionel
> > > Pensacola, FL, on the Redneck Riviera
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
Exactly. Ever run a floor buffer? Try to muscle it around and it will kick
your ass. Same with the belt sander. Just gently steer it.
"Mike Hide" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:fykHb.476083$Dw6.1396842@attbi_s02...
> Easy get one with the motor on top and the widest belt available .When in
> use just let the weight of the machine do the work all you need to do is
> guide it . If it is not removing enough wood increase the belt grit dont
try
> and apply more pressure ....mjh
>
>
>
>
>
> "Lionel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I'm able to do a fairly decent job with the other tools in the shop, but
I
> > don't seem to be able to get a belt sander within a foot of a piece of
> wood
> > without destroying it. It digs in, slides off and rounds edges, leaves
> > belt-edge marks, and generally messes up what I'm working on. I can't
> judge
> > where it is, and have trouble keeping it square.
> >
> > Is this just me, or is this a hard tool to learn to use properly? What
do
> > people use them for, and how do you get the proper results?
> >
> > Lionel
> > Pensacola, FL, on the Redneck Riviera
> >
> >
>
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> I'm able to do a fairly decent job with the other tools in the shop, but I
> don't seem to be able to get a belt sander within a foot of a piece of wood
> without destroying it. It digs in, slides off and rounds edges, leaves
> belt-edge marks, and generally messes up what I'm working on. I can't judge
> where it is, and have trouble keeping it square.
>
> Is this just me, or is this a hard tool to learn to use properly? What do
> people use them for, and how do you get the proper results?
>
> Lionel
> Pensacola, FL, on the Redneck Riviera
>
Belt sanders are generally used only when a substantial
amount of wood needs to be removed. There shouldn't be any
pressure applied other than the weight of the sander. Keep
the belt running true, keep it flat on the platen, use
two hands, sand with the grain, and keep it moving. If you
do all those things, there shouldn't be any of the problems
you describe.
--
Mark
The truth as I perceive it to be.
Your perception may be different.
Triple Z is spam control.
The best thing you can do to tame a belt sander is to give it to someone you
don't like particularly well.
Unless you put it in a stand and use it as a sanding station they are
project ruining accidents waiting to happen and have little use outside of
rough construction.
You want to take off material or flatten and smooth a panel use a hand plane
and scrapers.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Lionel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm able to do a fairly decent job with the other tools in the shop, but I
> don't seem to be able to get a belt sander within a foot of a piece of
wood
> without destroying it. It digs in, slides off and rounds edges, leaves
> belt-edge marks, and generally messes up what I'm working on. I can't
judge
> where it is, and have trouble keeping it square.
>
> Is this just me, or is this a hard tool to learn to use properly? What do
> people use them for, and how do you get the proper results?
>
> Lionel
> Pensacola, FL, on the Redneck Riviera
>
>
Easy get one with the motor on top and the widest belt available .When in
use just let the weight of the machine do the work all you need to do is
guide it . If it is not removing enough wood increase the belt grit dont try
and apply more pressure ....mjh
"Lionel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm able to do a fairly decent job with the other tools in the shop, but I
> don't seem to be able to get a belt sander within a foot of a piece of
wood
> without destroying it. It digs in, slides off and rounds edges, leaves
> belt-edge marks, and generally messes up what I'm working on. I can't
judge
> where it is, and have trouble keeping it square.
>
> Is this just me, or is this a hard tool to learn to use properly? What do
> people use them for, and how do you get the proper results?
>
> Lionel
> Pensacola, FL, on the Redneck Riviera
>
>
I like to use scrapers and hand planes, but I also have room for a belt
sander. I have the 4" Porter Cable, and it is a heavy SOB, but there are
times it's the best tool for the job. If one knows what he's doing and
works carefully those "accidents" don't seem to happen, at least not in my
shop. I wouldn't want to give my belt sander up. YMMV
Glen
"Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The best thing you can do to tame a belt sander is to give it to someone
you
> don't like particularly well.
>
> Unless you put it in a stand and use it as a sanding station they are
> project ruining accidents waiting to happen and have little use outside of
> rough construction.
>
> You want to take off material or flatten and smooth a panel use a hand
plane
> and scrapers.
>
Lionel,
I got into this a bit late and maybe I missed it . . . What type / Brand is
the sander?
I have a Ryobi 'in-line' type. {Very similar in silhouette to a Bosch}. It
has about 6 speed settings. These two things allow a great deal of balance &
control.
My belts come from Klingspor {via the Post Office} . . . a GREAT variety of
belts !! One 'type' they have are 'Planer Belts' - extremely tough
INDUSTRIAL belts that are available in Extremely Course grits {36 grit !!}
as well as the 'normal' grits. {I use 40 and 60 on the stationary Belt
Sander, and 40, 60, and 80 on the Ryobi}. This tends to get you out of the
habit of 'bearing down'. In fact, quite the opposite - it teaches you a
'light touch'. In addition, I have covered the platen with a 'Graphite
Belt'. A full explanation of 'what & why' is in their catalog.
It is a very useful tool - from straight up 'Material Removal' to 'Rough
Sanding'. I have used it for the shaping of gunnels & thwart edges, as well
as 'knocking down' cured epoxy and rounding of chines. I have even flattened
& 'cleaned up' large surface areas . . . 'glued up' panels. Although there
are belts available in the finer grits, I really wouldn't select it as the
tool for anything finer than 120 - even at the slower speeds.
Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
"Lionel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thanks for the advice. I think I was expecting it to do more delicate
work.
> If I have it right, it's first the chainsaw, then the belt sander, then a
> ROS.
>
> As to different grits, we mainly just have yellow and white here.
> Quick-cooking grits are all right, but the instant ones don't have a good
> texture. SWMBO does a pretty good cheese-and-spinach grits casserole.
>
> Thanks again.
>
> Lionel
"Lionel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm able to do a fairly decent job with the other tools in the shop, but I
> don't seem to be able to get a belt sander within a foot of a piece of
wood
> without destroying it. It digs in, slides off and rounds edges, leaves
> belt-edge marks, and generally messes up what I'm working on. I can't
judge
> where it is, and have trouble keeping it square.
>
> Is this just me, or is this a hard tool to learn to use properly? What do
> people use them for, and how do you get the proper results?
>
> Lionel
> Pensacola, FL, on the Redneck Riviera
>
What are you using it for?
I only use mine for really really rough stuff (or stuff I don't care about
how it looks). When I get close to endangering it, I switch to a ROS.
On Sat, 27 Dec 2003 12:43:48 -0600, "Lionel"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I'm able to do a fairly decent job with the other tools in the shop, but I
>don't seem to be able to get a belt sander within a foot of a piece of wood
>without destroying it. It digs in, slides off and rounds edges, leaves
>belt-edge marks, and generally messes up what I'm working on. I can't judge
>where it is, and have trouble keeping it square.
>
>Is this just me, or is this a hard tool to learn to use properly? What do
>people use them for, and how do you get the proper results?
It's horses for courses. I have used a Skil "Sandcat" (OK, so it's
real old nowadays!) for 20+ years and it's fine for some jobs. Yes it
rounds corners, is brutal, and removes a lot of lot of wood, very
quickly. But sometimes that's just what I want. You need at least 2
sanders IMO, a belt sander, and a ROS. (Well, OK, I have 5 sanders)
The belt sander can be used, or a real Chinwanese Cheapie, as it's
going to be rough anyway.
Barry Lennox
Lionel said:
>Is this just me, or is this a hard tool to learn to use properly? What do
>people use them for, and how do you get the proper results?
Well I have one, and I don't use it for fine woodworking...
But I DO use it for outdoor projects and such. All I can offer are
these tips:
The platen on the bottom should be flat. The belt should be adjusted
to run properly over this platen. When you are setting the sander
onto the material, turn it on first, and gently lower to the workpiece
while moving in the direction of your stroke. Don't hold the sander
still for ANY amount of time. Don't press down! It takes a bit of
practice to use it, but they can be useful. The biggest problem is
learning to hold the sander flat against the workpiece. Use both
hands, and be in a comfortable position.
FWIW,
Greg G.
Hello there,
> Is this just me, or is this a hard tool to learn to use properly? What do
> people use them for, and how do you get the proper results?
See if there is a "sanding frame" for your model of belt sander. It is like
training wheels for a belt sander.
Thanks,
David.
Every neighbourhood has one, in mine, I'm him.
Remove the "splinter" from my email address to email me.
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