How often to change oil in compressor?

On Nov 18, 1:41=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 11/18/10 12:19 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>
> > On Nov 18, 4:05 am, Stuart<[email protected]> =A0wrote:
> >> In article<[email protected]>,
> >> =A0 =A0 Jack Stein<[email protected]> =A0wrote:
>
> >>> I rarely drain the water (years)
>
> >> Now that concerns me as you can get rusting inside and thinning of the
> >> pressure vessel walls - you can guess what happens then.
>
> > Entire neighbourhoods get levelled like that all the time!
>
> I made the mistake of setting my compressor in some oak saw dust.

I'm surprised you could even find the compressor. I mean, that oak
sawdust could eat a compressor. in what...5 minutes? Especially red
oak dust.

blueman wrote:

>
> Unfortunately not - it's a Harbor Freight so manual = minimalist
> (though as I said in my original post I have paid back the original
> $99 purchase price many times over just in the savings from not
> having to call the sprinkler blowout guy)

Got it. I understand that. Is yours the $99 little horizontal tank
compressor? My son bought one of those and it has been a champ for what he
uses it for. Mostly air nailer stuff. It too was well worth the price.

>
>
>>> - Also the manual says use "30 weight non-detergent oil". Can I use
>>> the oil so labeled at an auto parts store or do I still need to buy
>>> "special" compressor oil of that weight?
>>>
>>
>> You can indeed use the motor oil in the auto parts stores. I would
>> use something like Mobil 1 myself, but regual motor oil is really
>> good enough.
>
> Can you get Mobil 1 in a 30weight non-detergent?

I don't really know. My compressor recommends Mobil 1 and I never bothered
to worry about detergent or non detergent.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

Larry W wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Jack Stein <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On 11/18/2010 10:41 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>>
>>> I work in Massachusetts. By law, industrial/commercial air tanks
>>> have to be inspected every two years. Must also have a state tag
>>> and permit from the Dept of Safety before being used. At your home,
>>> they don't care.
>>
>> Is this a hands on inspection, or do they run the thing through an
>> X-ray machine?
> <...snipped...>
>
> Can't say what they do in Mass. but in Maryland pressure vessels
> subject
> to inspection are hydrostatically tested, i.e. the tank is filled
> with water, pressurizing to some value above the rated working
> pressure, and then checking for leaks.

Do they do that for fixed compressor tanks as well?

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

Angello Huong wrote:
>> You can indeed use the motor oil in the auto parts stores. I would
>> use something like Mobil 1 myself, but regual motor oil is really
>> good enough.
>
> My compressor is very lightly used, so I have yet to change the oil
> on it in the last 3 years. I figured as soon as it started showing a
> little bit of dirt or cloudiness, then it's time for a change.
> However, on my next change, I wanted to use something that is the
> really good stuff.
>
> Anyone here knows whether using synthetic oil would be better or
> worse than the normal oil on an air compressor?
>

My compressor is a commercial compressor from CH and it specifically
recommends Mobil 1. For the occassional use that most smaller compressor
see, I don't believe you hit the point of worrying about which oil is really
better - they just don't get used hard enough to make it matter. If you
think about how long dead dinosaurs will perform in your car (been validated
to still be effective at 10,000 miles), then it's safe to assume your
compressor would be equally safe with dino oil. Your car certainly suffers
harsher conditions than your compressor does.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

blueman wrote:

>
> - Should the oil be replaced at regular intervals?

Should you read your owner's manual?

>
> - If so, is there a good general rule of thumb for how freqently to
> replace (either in terms of calendar time or usage)?
>

I bet that manual may just answer this question...

> - Also the manual says use "30 weight non-detergent oil". Can I use
> the oil so labeled at an auto parts store or do I still need to buy
> "special" compressor oil of that weight?
>

You can indeed use the motor oil in the auto parts stores. I would use
something like Mobil 1 myself, but regual motor oil is really good enough.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

On Mon, 1 Nov 2010 19:38:36 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>
>"Larry Jaques" wrote:
>
>> Sure it does. Castrol is made from oil pumped from the ground in
>> America!
>-----------------------------------
>Since BP owns Castrol, which oil field are you talking about.

I looked briefly yesterday but didn't find the article again. The last
I read, it was Pennsylvania sweet crude, as are most American oils.

--
Experience is a good teacher, but she send in terrific bills.
-- Minna Thomas Antrim

>You can indeed use the motor oil in the auto parts stores. I would use
>something like Mobil 1 myself, but regual motor oil is really good enough.

My compressor is very lightly used, so I have yet to change the oil
on it in the last 3 years. I figured as soon as it started showing a
little bit of dirt or cloudiness, then it's time for a change.
However, on my next change, I wanted to use something that is the
really good stuff.

Anyone here knows whether using synthetic oil would be better or
worse than the normal oil on an air compressor?

Angello

"blueman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have a Harbor Freight 8 gallon 120PSI compressor that has paid for
> itself half a dozen times over just in fees saved for blowing out my
> sprinkler system.
>
> I use it intensely once a year for sprinkler blowout (9 zones x 6
> repeats per zone) and about 1-2 times per month for light project use
> (usually just fills the tank a couple of times).
>
> The compressor takes about 25oz of 30 weight non-detergent oil.
> The oil level seems to remain pretty steady in the window.
>
> - Should the oil be replaced at regular intervals?
>
> - If so, is there a good general rule of thumb for how freqently to
> replace (either in terms of calendar time or usage)?
>
> - Also the manual says use "30 weight non-detergent oil". Can I use the
> oil so labeled at an auto parts store or do I still need to buy "special"
> compressor oil of that weight?
>
> Thanks
>


I change mine (30 gallon Craftsman) once a year but I use it much more than
you seem to.
Air compressor oil isn't that expensive and you don't need much so why not
use it.
I should mention that I live in a dry climate (El Paso, TX) and as a
consequence don't get much moisture in the tank (or the oil)

Max

"Angello Huong" wrote:

> However, on my next change, I wanted to use something that is the
> really good stuff.
----------------------------
That would be SAE30 non detergent.
----------------------------
> Anyone here knows whether using synthetic oil would be better or
> worse than the normal oil on an air compressor?
----------------------------
The compressor is designed to run on SAE30 non detergent.

Lew

"Larry Jaques" wrote:

> Sure it does. Castrol is made from oil pumped from the ground in
> America!
-----------------------------------
Since BP owns Castrol, which oil field are you talking about.

Lew

Larry Jaques" wrote:

> I looked briefly yesterday but didn't find the article again. The
> last
> I read, it was Pennsylvania sweet crude, as are most American oils.
----------------------------------
Castrol here in Los Angeles is one of my customers.

They get there feed stocks from some interesting sources, many of
which are definitely not from here in California.

Lew

Larry Jaques" wrote:

> But you didn't say where, now, did you? Where is the primary
> source?
-------------------------------
Could be almost anyplace.

There are still several major refineries here in the L/A basin.

There is also a little outfit by the name of The Arizona Pipeline who
pump crude.

Could be Middle East for all I know, certainly not limited to USA.

Lew

On 11/02/2010 01:25 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> Larry Jaques" wrote:
>
>> But you didn't say where, now, did you? Where is the primary
>> source?
> -------------------------------
> Could be almost anyplace.
>
> There are still several major refineries here in the L/A basin.
>
> There is also a little outfit by the name of The Arizona Pipeline who
> pump crude.
>
> Could be Middle East for all I know, certainly not limited to USA.
>
> Lew
>
>

On their website, they only claim to distribute "gas". Whether natural
gas or gasoline, they don't say.

http://www.arizonapipeline.com/newsite/services.htm

"Doug Winterburn" wrote:

> On their website, they only claim to distribute "gas". Whether
> natural gas or gasoline, they don't say.
>
> http://www.arizonapipeline.com/newsite/services.htm

If you notice they talk about gas distribution, but only casually
mention their pipeline business.

I can't help but believe that security has a lot to do with keeping
the pipeline business out of the limelight.

Lew

On 11/02/2010 06:15 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "Doug Winterburn" wrote:
>
>> On their website, they only claim to distribute "gas". Whether
>> natural gas or gasoline, they don't say.
>>
>> http://www.arizonapipeline.com/newsite/services.htm
>
> If you notice they talk about gas distribution, but only casually
> mention their pipeline business.

It seems pretty clear - they install underground pipe for many
applications - most associated with other than petro-chem. Their only
distribution of product is "gas".

>
> I can't help but believe that security has a lot to do with keeping
> the pipeline business out of the limelight.
>
> Lew
>
>

Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>
> "blueman" <[email protected]> wrote
>
>> The auto-techs said all the new automotive oils have detergents for
>> regulatory/standards reasons. But that plain (non-synthetic) 30 weight
>> is still made also without detergents for older engines.
>>
>> Perhaps they are wrong or perhaps you can get synthetic 30 weight
>> without detergent in a compressor parts store... But I would be
>> interested if anybody has found a source of synthetic 30 weight oil
>> without detergent.
>
>
>
> I'd go to an industrial supply house or www.mcmaster.com for compressor
> oil. They make a synthetic that is probably the same 30 weight with no
> detergents. Mc Master No. 1411K31 for 30 weight. $53 a gallon.
> Lifetime supply for most of us that use a compressor lightly.

Does synthetic oil degrade with time?

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]

In article <[email protected]>,
Jack Stein <[email protected]> wrote:
> I rarely drain the water (years)

Now that concerns me as you can get rusting inside and thinning of the
pressure vessel walls - you can guess what happens then.

On Nov 1, 8:33=A0am, "Joe AutoDrill" <[email protected]> wrote:
> > - Also the manual says use "30 weight non-detergent oil". Can I use the
> > =A0oil so labeled at an auto parts store or do I still need to buy "spe=
cial"
> > =A0compressor oil of that weight?
>
> Yes. =A0Synthetic is even better and still less expensive than the stuff =
they
> will sell you.
> --
>
> Regards,
> Joe Agro, Jr.
> (800) 871-5022
> 01.908.542.0244
> Automatic / Pneumatic Drills:http://www.AutoDrill.com
> Multiple Spindle Drills:http://www.Multi-Drill.com
> Production Tapping:http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
> Flagship Site:http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
> VIDEOS:http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
> TWITTER:http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
> FACEBOOK:http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook
>
> V8013-R

I personally witnessed:
Run the engine up to temperature on a wheel-driven dyno take a sample
and print.
Without delay, change to synthetic.
Run the engine up to temperature on same dyno, half hour later, sample
and print.
It was a 1996 Safari van, with a 4.3l with 240,000+ miles of Michigan
driving on it.
No idea who owned it, I was next door buying some parts and I was, as
usual, poking my nose around the corner to see what these crazies were
up to that day. (WHO can stay away from a speed shop?)
133 HP to 137 HP.
I doubt it would show up on the quarter mile time, but hey, I was
surprised.

No regular oil for these guys:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/subaru_jump.jpg

But I digress.

Over the years, I always changed the oil on any of my compressors
every 6 months. Why not? It's not that those crank-cases hold gallons
of the stuff...and yes, synthetic for the last 10+ years.

On Sun, 31 Oct 2010 23:19:26 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>blueman wrote:
>
>>
>> - Should the oil be replaced at regular intervals?
>
>Should you read your owner's manual?
>
>>
>> - If so, is there a good general rule of thumb for how freqently to
>> replace (either in terms of calendar time or usage)?
>>
>
>I bet that manual may just answer this question...
>
>> - Also the manual says use "30 weight non-detergent oil". Can I use
>> the oil so labeled at an auto parts store or do I still need to buy
>> "special" compressor oil of that weight?
>>
>
>You can indeed use the motor oil in the auto parts stores. I would use
>something like Mobil 1 myself, but regual motor oil is really good enough.

I have the 3hp/21gal model and the manual calls for oil at 500 hours
or annually, whichever comes first.

I prefer to use Castrol GTX annually.

--
Small opportunities are often the beginning of great enterprises.
-- Demosthenes

On Nov 1, 9:19=A0am, Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Mon, 01 Nov 2010 00:02:38 -0400, blueman <[email protected]> wrote:
> >"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> writes:
>
> >> blueman wrote:
>
> >>> - Should the oil be replaced at regular intervals?
>
> >> Should you read your owner's manual?
>
> >>> - If so, is there a good general rule of thumb for how freqently to
> >>> =A0replace (either in terms of calendar time or usage)?
>
> >> I bet that manual may just answer this question...
>
> >Unfortunately not - it's a Harbor Freight so manual =3D minimalist
> >(though as I said in my original post I have paid back the original $99
> >purchase price many times over just in the savings from not having to
> >call the sprinkler blowout guy)
>
> Most of their (larger) compressor manuals call for annual oil changes.
> I just checked the 1-3/4hp, 3hp 5gal, and 3hp 21gal.
>
> >>> - Also the manual says use "30 weight non-detergent oil". Can I use
> >>> =A0the oil so labeled at an auto parts store or do I still need to bu=
y
> >>> =A0"special" compressor oil of that weight?
>
> >> You can indeed use the motor oil in the auto parts stores. =A0I would =
use
> >> something like Mobil 1 myself, but regual motor oil is really good eno=
ugh.
>
> >Can you get Mobil 1 in a 30weight non-detergent?
>
> That's overkill. =A0Spend ten bucks on a gallon of Castrol and it'll
> last you 5 years or so.
>

But, but, but the use of regular oil doesn't help us to disconnect
from those greedy exporting countries!!! *he preaches with passion and
thumps his desk*

On Mon, 01 Nov 2010 00:02:38 -0400, blueman <[email protected]> wrote:

>"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> writes:
>
>> blueman wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> - Should the oil be replaced at regular intervals?
>>
>> Should you read your owner's manual?
>>
>>>
>>> - If so, is there a good general rule of thumb for how freqently to
>>> replace (either in terms of calendar time or usage)?
>>>
>>
>> I bet that manual may just answer this question...
>
>Unfortunately not - it's a Harbor Freight so manual = minimalist
>(though as I said in my original post I have paid back the original $99
>purchase price many times over just in the savings from not having to
>call the sprinkler blowout guy)

Most of their (larger) compressor manuals call for annual oil changes.
I just checked the 1-3/4hp, 3hp 5gal, and 3hp 21gal.


>>> - Also the manual says use "30 weight non-detergent oil". Can I use
>>> the oil so labeled at an auto parts store or do I still need to buy
>>> "special" compressor oil of that weight?
>>>
>>
>> You can indeed use the motor oil in the auto parts stores. I would use
>> something like Mobil 1 myself, but regual motor oil is really good enough.
>
>Can you get Mobil 1 in a 30weight non-detergent?

That's overkill. Spend ten bucks on a gallon of Castrol and it'll
last you 5 years or so.

--
Small opportunities are often the beginning of great enterprises.
-- Demosthenes

On Nov 1, 7:15=A0pm, [email protected] (Larry W) wrote:
> In article <[email protected]=
.com>,Robatoy =A0<[email protected]> wrote:
>
> ...snipped...>
>
> >I personally witnessed:
> >Run the engine up to temperature on a wheel-driven dyno take a sample
> >and print.
> >Without delay, change to synthetic.
> >Run the engine up to temperature on same dyno, half hour later, sample
> >and print.
> <...snipped...
> >133 HP to 137 HP.
> >I doubt it would show up on the quarter mile time, but hey, I was
> >surprised.
>
> There may well be something to that, but it would not be unusual to
> have a 4hp variation between runs even if NOTHING changed.
>
On tech offered the idea that less restriction in the new oil filter
could even make a 4 HP bump.

On Tue, 2 Nov 2010 08:49:07 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Larry Jaques" wrote:
>
>> I looked briefly yesterday but didn't find the article again. The
>> last
>> I read, it was Pennsylvania sweet crude, as are most American oils.
>----------------------------------
>Castrol here in Los Angeles is one of my customers.
>
>They get there feed stocks from some interesting sources, many of
>which are definitely not from here in California.

But you didn't say where, now, did you? Where is the primary source?

--
Experience is a good teacher, but she send in terrific bills.
-- Minna Thomas Antrim

"blueman" <[email protected]> wrote

> - Should the oil be replaced at regular intervals?

> - Also the manual says use "30 weight non-detergent oil". Can I use the
> oil so labeled at an auto parts store or do I still need to buy "special"
> compressor oil of that weight?
>
> Thanks
>

At work we change oil about every 1200 to 1500 hours. I don't think you are
close to that. Compressors don't get contamination the way internal
combustion engines do so the oil will last much longer. You don't need
special oil as regular 30 weight is recommended by the factory.

"Larry W" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> Can't say what they do in Mass. but in Maryland pressure vessels subject
> to inspection are hydrostatically tested, i.e. the tank is filled with
> water,
> pressurizing to some value above the rated working pressure, and then
> checking for leaks.

That must be fun with a 1000 gallon air receiver with no water source nearby
and no drain either. Aside from the fact that there is no vent on the top
of some to get the air out.

In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> >You can indeed use the motor oil in the auto parts stores. I would use
> >something like Mobil 1 myself, but regual motor oil is really good enough.
>
> My compressor is very lightly used, so I have yet to change the oil
> on it in the last 3 years. I figured as soon as it started showing a
> little bit of dirt or cloudiness, then it's time for a change.
> However, on my next change, I wanted to use something that is the
> really good stuff.
>
> Anyone here knows whether using synthetic oil would be better or
> worse than the normal oil on an air compressor?

(1) While it doesn't need it, changing the oil will do no harm so if it
makes you feel better, do it. Typically you'd change it once ever six
months to a year in 8 hour a day 5 day a week operation.

(2) If it's a job-site compressor run in freezing weather, synthetic is
probably a good idea. If it's a shop compressor normally run at room
temperature there's no point to it. Again though, it does no harm, so
if it makes you feel better, use it.

> Anyone here knows whether using synthetic oil would be better or
> worse than the normal oil on an air compressor?
>
> Angello

Absolutely. We just rebuilt a larger Dayton compressor and they (Dayton?)
scamed us when we ordered the new head, etc. They said to use their special
oil and when we ordered it, we received Mobile 1 synthetic from them.

Simply said, it's lubricant. If it is the same weight, can take the heat
(less than a combustion engine) and lubricates the moving parts without
foaming, it's good to go.
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook

V8013-R

"Jack Stein" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 11/18/2010 10:41 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>
>> I work in Massachusetts. By law, industrial/commercial air tanks have to
>> be inspected every two years. Must also have a state tag and permit from
>> the Dept of Safety before being used. At your home, they don't care.
>
> Is this a hands on inspection, or do they run the thing through an X-ray
> machine?
>
> Must be really nice living in Massachusetts, nice and safe, cozy feeling,
> yes?
>
> --
> Jack
> You Can't Fix Stupid, but You Can Vote it Out!
> http://jbstein.com

First inspection and certificate is by the state inspector. Subsequent
inspections can be done by the insurance carrier. We have to have our high
pressure boilers opened and inspected every year so they do the air tanks at
the same time. Used to be they had to be opened for internal visual, now
they use ultrasound. Oh, you also have to be licensed to operate those
boilers. You need an engineer or "special to be in charge" and then you
can have subordinate fireman or special licenses below that. They don't get
switched on unless one of them is present. Of course if is is over 300 hp
aggragate it is stricter.

"blueman" <[email protected]> wrote
> The auto-techs said all the new automotive oils have detergents for
> regulatory/standards reasons. But that plain (non-synthetic) 30 weight
> is still made also without detergents for older engines.
>
> Perhaps they are wrong or perhaps you can get synthetic 30 weight
> without detergent in a compressor parts store... But I would be
> interested if anybody has found a source of synthetic 30 weight oil
> without detergent.


I'd go to an industrial supply house or www.mcmaster.com for compressor oil.
They make a synthetic that is probably the same 30 weight with no
detergents. Mc Master No. 1411K31 for 30 weight. $53 a gallon. Lifetime
supply for most of us that use a compressor lightly.

"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 11/18/10 3:05 AM, Stuart wrote:
>> In article<[email protected]>,
>> Jack Stein<[email protected]> wrote:
>>> I rarely drain the water (years)
>>
>> Now that concerns me as you can get rusting inside and thinning of the
>> pressure vessel walls - you can guess what happens then.
>>
>
> Ok, Josepi.
>
>
> --
>
> -MIKE-

I work in Massachusetts. By law, industrial/commercial air tanks have to be
inspected every two years. Must also have a state tag and permit from the
Dept of Safety before being used. At your home, they don't care.

On Mon, 1 Nov 2010 06:33:53 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
<[email protected]> wrote:

>On Nov 1, 9:19 am, Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Mon, 01 Nov 2010 00:02:38 -0400, blueman <[email protected]> wrote:
>> >"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> writes:
>>
>> >> blueman wrote:
>>
>> >>> - Should the oil be replaced at regular intervals?
>>
>> >> Should you read your owner's manual?
>>
>> >>> - If so, is there a good general rule of thumb for how freqently to
>> >>>  replace (either in terms of calendar time or usage)?
>>
>> >> I bet that manual may just answer this question...
>>
>> >Unfortunately not - it's a Harbor Freight so manual = minimalist
>> >(though as I said in my original post I have paid back the original $99
>> >purchase price many times over just in the savings from not having to
>> >call the sprinkler blowout guy)
>>
>> Most of their (larger) compressor manuals call for annual oil changes.
>> I just checked the 1-3/4hp, 3hp 5gal, and 3hp 21gal.
>>
>> >>> - Also the manual says use "30 weight non-detergent oil". Can I use
>> >>>  the oil so labeled at an auto parts store or do I still need to buy
>> >>>  "special" compressor oil of that weight?
>>
>> >> You can indeed use the motor oil in the auto parts stores.  I would use
>> >> something like Mobil 1 myself, but regual motor oil is really good enough.
>>
>> >Can you get Mobil 1 in a 30weight non-detergent?
>>
>> That's overkill.  Spend ten bucks on a gallon of Castrol and it'll
>> last you 5 years or so.
>>
>
>But, but, but the use of regular oil doesn't help us to disconnect
>from those greedy exporting countries!!! *he preaches with passion and
>thumps his desk*

Sure it does. Castrol is made from oil pumped from the ground in
America!

--
If we attend continually and promptly to the little that
we can do, we shall ere long be surprised to find how
little remains that we cannot do. -- Samuel Butler

On Nov 18, 4:05=A0am, Stuart <[email protected]> wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> =A0 =A0Jack Stein <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > I rarely drain the water (years)
>
> Now that concerns me as you can get rusting inside and thinning of the
> pressure vessel walls - you can guess what happens then.

Entire neighbourhoods get levelled like that all the time!

-MIKE- wrote:
> On 11/18/10 12:19 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>> On Nov 18, 4:05 am, Stuart<[email protected]> wrote:
>>> In article<[email protected]>,
>>> Jack Stein<[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I rarely drain the water (years)
>>>
>>> Now that concerns me as you can get rusting inside and thinning of
>>> the pressure vessel walls - you can guess what happens then.
>>
>> Entire neighbourhoods get levelled like that all the time!
>
> I made the mistake of setting my compressor in some oak saw dust.
> Needless to say, the insurance company wouldn't cover the resulting
> damage because they blamed the whole thing on my ungrounded plastic DC
> ducting.

So sad. If only you had wrapped the PVC conduit in braided ground, and
sized it to over-capacity...

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

On Sun, 31 Oct 2010 20:47:21 -0400, blueman <[email protected]> wrote:

>I have a Harbor Freight 8 gallon 120PSI compressor that has paid for
>itself half a dozen times over just in fees saved for blowing out my
>sprinkler system.
>
>I use it intensely once a year for sprinkler blowout (9 zones x 6
>repeats per zone) and about 1-2 times per month for light project use
>(usually just fills the tank a couple of times).
>
>The compressor takes about 25oz of 30 weight non-detergent oil.
>The oil level seems to remain pretty steady in the window.
>
>- Should the oil be replaced at regular intervals?
>
>- If so, is there a good general rule of thumb for how freqently to
> replace (either in terms of calendar time or usage)?
>
>- Also the manual says use "30 weight non-detergent oil". Can I use the
> oil so labeled at an auto parts store or do I still need to buy "special"
> compressor oil of that weight?
>
>Thanks

Especially with those inexpensive compressors, the first oil change
after about 10 hours of use is critical. Afte that, once a year should
be fine.

Ed Pawlowski wrote:
...
> ... You don't need
> special oil as regular 30 weight is recommended by the factory.

OP does _NOT_ want "regular" automotive 30W; definitely need a
non-detergent oil.

--

Mike Marlow wrote:
...

> I don't really know. My compressor recommends Mobil 1 and I never bothered
> to worry about detergent or non detergent.

Synthetics aren't quite the same.

Conventional detergent oils (common motor oils) are generally proscribed
by every compressor manufacturer recommendation/specification I've ever
seen...

--

In article <556b21a0-aca1-4128-90b4-64b50fe8df04@r14g2000yqa.googlegroups.com>,
Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
...snipped...>
>I personally witnessed:
>Run the engine up to temperature on a wheel-driven dyno take a sample
>and print.
>Without delay, change to synthetic.
>Run the engine up to temperature on same dyno, half hour later, sample
>and print.
<...snipped...
>133 HP to 137 HP.
>I doubt it would show up on the quarter mile time, but hey, I was
>surprised.
>

There may well be something to that, but it would not be unusual to
have a 4hp variation between runs even if NOTHING changed.





--
Better to be stuck up in a tree than tied to one.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar.org

On 11/7/2010 9:55 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>
> "blueman" <[email protected]> wrote
>> The auto-techs said all the new automotive oils have detergents for
>> regulatory/standards reasons. But that plain (non-synthetic) 30 weight
>> is still made also without detergents for older engines.
>>
>> Perhaps they are wrong or perhaps you can get synthetic 30 weight
>> without detergent in a compressor parts store... But I would be
>> interested if anybody has found a source of synthetic 30 weight oil
>> without detergent.

> I'd go to an industrial supply house or www.mcmaster.com for compressor
> oil. They make a synthetic that is probably the same 30 weight with no
> detergents. Mc Master No. 1411K31 for 30 weight. $53 a gallon. Lifetime
> supply for most of us that use a compressor lightly.

I got my compressor used over 30 years ago and have been thinking of
changing the oil after reading this thread, but so far, just thinking
about it... Compressor gets light use, maybe once a week on average.

I think, if I change it, I'll use the synthetic stuff so it will last.
It might have synthetic stuff in it, I never changed it.

I rarely drain the water (years) and never change the oil (many years)

Still works same as the day I got the thing (Emglo pump, now Dewalt or
Jenny)

--
Jack
You Can't Fix Stupid, but You Can Vote it Out!
http://jbstein.com

On 11/18/10 3:05 AM, Stuart wrote:
> In article<[email protected]>,
> Jack Stein<[email protected]> wrote:
>> I rarely drain the water (years)
>
> Now that concerns me as you can get rusting inside and thinning of the
> pressure vessel walls - you can guess what happens then.
>

Ok, Josepi.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 11/18/10 12:19 PM, Robatoy wrote:
> On Nov 18, 4:05 am, Stuart<[email protected]> wrote:
>> In article<[email protected]>,
>> Jack Stein<[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> I rarely drain the water (years)
>>
>> Now that concerns me as you can get rusting inside and thinning of the
>> pressure vessel walls - you can guess what happens then.
>
> Entire neighbourhoods get levelled like that all the time!

I made the mistake of setting my compressor in some oak saw dust.
Needless to say, the insurance company wouldn't cover the resulting
damage because they blamed the whole thing on my ungrounded plastic DC
ducting.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 11/18/2010 10:41 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

> I work in Massachusetts. By law, industrial/commercial air tanks have to
> be inspected every two years. Must also have a state tag and permit from
> the Dept of Safety before being used. At your home, they don't care.

Is this a hands on inspection, or do they run the thing through an X-ray
machine?

Must be really nice living in Massachusetts, nice and safe, cozy
feeling, yes?

--
Jack
You Can't Fix Stupid, but You Can Vote it Out!
http://jbstein.com

In article <[email protected]>,
Jack Stein <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 11/18/2010 10:41 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>
>> I work in Massachusetts. By law, industrial/commercial air tanks have to
>> be inspected every two years. Must also have a state tag and permit from
>> the Dept of Safety before being used. At your home, they don't care.
>
>Is this a hands on inspection, or do they run the thing through an X-ray
>machine?
<...snipped...>

Can't say what they do in Mass. but in Maryland pressure vessels subject
to inspection are hydrostatically tested, i.e. the tank is filled with water,
pressurizing to some value above the rated working pressure, and then
checking for leaks.

--
When the game is over, the pawn and the king are returned to the same box.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar.org

In article <[email protected]>,
Mike Marlow <[email protected]> wrote:
>Larry W wrote:
<<...snipped...>>
>> Can't say what they do in Mass. but in Maryland pressure vessels
>> subject
>> to inspection are hydrostatically tested, i.e. the tank is filled
>> with water, pressurizing to some value above the rated working
>> pressure, and then checking for leaks.
>
>Do they do that for fixed compressor tanks as well?
<...snipped...>

Yes, I believe they are the only ones they _do_ check. I've never known
them to inspect small portable compressors. I am not familiar with the
details of the regulations, but every so often (I'm thinking
maybe 3 or 5 years or so) the inspector shows up, does his thing, then
issues a certificate to be posted on or near the compressor. The same
inspector also tests boilers. I'm involved with 4 different facilities,
all having industrial grade compressors, and some having boilers for heat,
and interestingly, in 28 years, I don't recall a single failure to pass
the inspection.



--
When the game is over, the pawn and the king are returned to the same box.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar.org

In article <[email protected]>,
Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Larry W" <[email protected]> wrote
>>
>> Can't say what they do in Mass. but in Maryland pressure vessels subject
>> to inspection are hydrostatically tested, i.e. the tank is filled with
>> water,
>> pressurizing to some value above the rated working pressure, and then
>> checking for leaks.
>
>That must be fun with a 1000 gallon air receiver with no water source nearby
>and no drain either. Aside from the fact that there is no vent on the top
>of some to get the air out.
>

I've wondered also about what they do for big compressors like those. Our
compressers have tanks in the 100 to 200 gallon range. At one location
we do have to run a hose to the compressor location for the inspector.
I'm not sure if the hydrostatic test is required at every inspection.



--
Often wrong, never in doubt.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

On 11/20/2010 11:36 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>
> "Larry W" <[email protected]> wrote
>>
>> Can't say what they do in Mass. but in Maryland pressure vessels subject
>> to inspection are hydrostatically tested, i.e. the tank is filled with
>> water,
>> pressurizing to some value above the rated working pressure, and then
>> checking for leaks.
>
> That must be fun with a 1000 gallon air receiver with no water source
> nearby and no drain either. Aside from the fact that there is no vent on
> the top of some to get the air out.

At least you would feel safe knowing a government hack, I mean
inspector, made a visit...


--
Jack
You Can't Fix Stupid, but You Can Vote it Out!
http://jbstein.com

On Mon, 01 Nov 2010 00:02:38 -0400, blueman <[email protected]> wrote:

>"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> writes:
>
>> blueman wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> - Should the oil be replaced at regular intervals?
>>
>> Should you read your owner's manual?
>>
>>>
>>> - If so, is there a good general rule of thumb for how freqently to
>>> replace (either in terms of calendar time or usage)?
>>>
>>
>> I bet that manual may just answer this question...
>
>Unfortunately not - it's a Harbor Freight so manual = minimalist

The information is in the manual on page 15.

http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/95000-95999/95386.pdf

"Angello Huong" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> Anyone here knows whether using synthetic oil would be better or
> worse than the normal oil on an air compressor?
>
> Angello

Yes, it is better. Use a synthetic compressor oil as opposed to an
automotive oil. Expect to pay $50+ a gallon.

"Leon" <[email protected]> writes:

> "blueman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> "Ed Pawlowski" <[email protected]> writes:
>>> "Angello Huong" <[email protected]> wrote
>>>>
>>>> Anyone here knows whether using synthetic oil would be better or
>>>> worse than the normal oil on an air compressor?
>>>>
>>>> Angello
>>
>> I went to several auto part stores and the only synthetic they had in 30
>> weight was detergent and I need non-detergent. (I actually once
>> mistakenly briefly used an oil with detergent, and the check window got
>> all bubbly...)
>>
>> The auto-techs said all the new automotive oils have detergents for
>> regulatory/standards reasons. But that plain (non-synthetic) 30 weight
>> is still made also without detergents for older engines.
>>
>> Perhaps they are wrong or perhaps you can get synthetic 30 weight
>> without detergent in a compressor parts store... But I would be
>> interested if anybody has found a source of synthetic 30 weight oil
>> without detergent.
>
>
> In the past, a Non-detergent oil had a ND designation adjacent to the
> viscosity weight rating.

Still does at least at the local auto parts stores...

"Ed Pawlowski" <[email protected]> writes:
> "Angello Huong" <[email protected]> wrote
>>
>> Anyone here knows whether using synthetic oil would be better or
>> worse than the normal oil on an air compressor?
>>
>> Angello

I went to several auto part stores and the only synthetic they had in 30
weight was detergent and I need non-detergent. (I actually once
mistakenly briefly used an oil with detergent, and the check window got
all bubbly...)

The auto-techs said all the new automotive oils have detergents for
regulatory/standards reasons. But that plain (non-synthetic) 30 weight
is still made also without detergents for older engines.

Perhaps they are wrong or perhaps you can get synthetic 30 weight
without detergent in a compressor parts store... But I would be
interested if anybody has found a source of synthetic 30 weight oil
without detergent.

[email protected] writes:
> On Mon, 01 Nov 2010 00:02:38 -0400, blueman <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> writes:
>>
>>> blueman wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> - Should the oil be replaced at regular intervals?
>>>
>>> Should you read your owner's manual?
>>>
>>>>
>>>> - If so, is there a good general rule of thumb for how freqently to
>>>> replace (either in terms of calendar time or usage)?
>>>>
>>>
>>> I bet that manual may just answer this question...
>>
>>Unfortunately not - it's a Harbor Freight so manual = minimalist
>
> The information is in the manual on page 15.
>
> http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/95000-95999/95386.pdf

Thanks I have an older model (#90385) which doesn't have that in the
manual (and indeed it only even goes up to page 12!)

"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> writes:
> blueman wrote:
>
>>
>> Unfortunately not - it's a Harbor Freight so manual = minimalist
>> (though as I said in my original post I have paid back the original
>> $99 purchase price many times over just in the savings from not
>> having to call the sprinkler blowout guy)
>
> Got it. I understand that. Is yours the $99 little horizontal tank
> compressor? My son bought one of those and it has been a champ for what he
> uses it for. Mostly air nailer stuff. It too was well worth the price.
>

I paid about $99 for the 8 Gallon (horizontal) 125PSI compressor
(#90385) though that model is no longer made. It has been quite the
champ.

"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> writes:

> blueman wrote:
>
>>
>> - Should the oil be replaced at regular intervals?
>
> Should you read your owner's manual?
>
>>
>> - If so, is there a good general rule of thumb for how freqently to
>> replace (either in terms of calendar time or usage)?
>>
>
> I bet that manual may just answer this question...

Unfortunately not - it's a Harbor Freight so manual = minimalist
(though as I said in my original post I have paid back the original $99
purchase price many times over just in the savings from not having to
call the sprinkler blowout guy)


>> - Also the manual says use "30 weight non-detergent oil". Can I use
>> the oil so labeled at an auto parts store or do I still need to buy
>> "special" compressor oil of that weight?
>>
>
> You can indeed use the motor oil in the auto parts stores. I would use
> something like Mobil 1 myself, but regual motor oil is really good enough.

Can you get Mobil 1 in a 30weight non-detergent?

"blueman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Ed Pawlowski" <[email protected]> writes:
>> "Angello Huong" <[email protected]> wrote
>>>
>>> Anyone here knows whether using synthetic oil would be better or
>>> worse than the normal oil on an air compressor?
>>>
>>> Angello
>
> I went to several auto part stores and the only synthetic they had in 30
> weight was detergent and I need non-detergent. (I actually once
> mistakenly briefly used an oil with detergent, and the check window got
> all bubbly...)
>
> The auto-techs said all the new automotive oils have detergents for
> regulatory/standards reasons. But that plain (non-synthetic) 30 weight
> is still made also without detergents for older engines.
>
> Perhaps they are wrong or perhaps you can get synthetic 30 weight
> without detergent in a compressor parts store... But I would be
> interested if anybody has found a source of synthetic 30 weight oil
> without detergent.


In the past, a Non-detergent oil had a ND designation adjacent to the
viscosity weight rating.

"Larry W" <[email protected]> wrote
>>Without delay, change to synthetic.
>>Run the engine up to temperature on same dyno, half hour later, sample
>>and print.
> <...snipped...
>>133 HP to 137 HP.
>>I doubt it would show up on the quarter mile time, but hey, I was
>>surprised.
>>
>
> There may well be something to that, but it would not be unusual to
> have a 4hp variation between runs even if NOTHING changed.

Back in the '70s I used to do a fair amount of tinkering with model airplane
and race car engines. Synthetics were fairly new at the time and we
experimented. It was common to pick up a few thousand rpm and use less oil
in the mix. Made me a believer, as did the ME that I did this stuff with.

> - Also the manual says use "30 weight non-detergent oil". Can I use the
> oil so labeled at an auto parts store or do I still need to buy "special"
> compressor oil of that weight?

Yes. Synthetic is even better and still less expensive than the stuff they
will sell you.
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
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