Bandsaw or tablesaw or wait?

That is what I currently do. I have a long straight edge that I clamp
down and use as a guide. I saw a guide system in the tool crib
catalog that actually attaches to a circular saw to assure that the
saw passes smoothly along the straight edge without leaving the edge.
I think it cost about $80 and I'm not sure if it would produce better
results than my current straight edge system. Even if I get the
bandsaw, I'll still need something for ripping plywood.

Do you use anything more complicated than a clamped straight edge? If
so, is it worth the money?

Thanks again,
YJJim

Richards <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> YJJim wrote:
> > I have been in the market for a tablesaw for about two years and had
> > basically settled on the Grizzly 1023 cabinet saw. I had planned on
> > buying one at the end of this year but, for various reasons, the funds
> > are not there. I am trying to decide at this point what I should do
> > with the money I have set aside for it. My current options are:
> >
> > 1. Just keep waiting
> > 2. Get a lower priced saw (maybe the Grizzly contractor saw)
> > 3. Get a bandsaw (Griz 0555 probably)
> >
> > I know a bandsaw does not replace a table saw, but I plan to get one
> > eventually and from what I have heard the 0555 is as good a one as I
> > will need. I'm thinking this might be a better purchase than a
> > cheaper TS since I wouldn't be buying something that I might
> > eventually feel I need to replace.
> >
> > Most of what I make/want to make, include bookcases, and other simple
> > furniture.
> >
> > Any opinions or suggestions?
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > YJJim
>
> Another option is to buy a good circular saw with a good guide system.
> I use the Festool. Most of the time, I rip and crosscut 5x5 baltic
> birch plywood without ever going to my Unisaw for the simple reason that
> it's easier to move a saw along the plywood than it is to move plywood
> along the saw. The Festool leaves a smoother edge than the Unisaw and
> is just as accurate (with the guide).
>
> A word of caution about bandsaws; if you buy one, buy a good one. I
> have a 14" Jet, but it is less than ideal. Jet makes fine tools,
> including fine bandsaws, but the 14" is too small for serious re-sawing.
> One of their larger models would do a much better job.

Thank you to everyone who has responded! It has been very helpful.

I think that for what I make, the bandsaw is probably not needed yet.
My jigsaw should suffice.

My current setup includes a miter saw (non-sliding), circular saw, jig
saw, routers (and table), and various other hand tools. I have been
wanting to get a "big machine" to make various tasks easier and more
efficient. I guess the table saw is the next purchase. As far as
which one/type to get, it seems like everyone advises against buying a
contractors saw in favor of a cabinet type. This seems to make sense
since once I buy it, I don't plan to buy another one. I'm still not
sure that I would ever push a contractors saw to its limit, but most
folks here seems to wish they had started with cabinet saw so I'll
rely on your experience.

I think I'll check out the used market, but possibly wait until I can
afford the griz 1023. Decisions decisions.

Thanks again for all of your comments and suggestions. This group is
a world of help to us novices.

YJJim


[email protected] (YJJim) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I have been in the market for a tablesaw for about two years and had
> basically settled on the Grizzly 1023 cabinet saw. I had planned on
> buying one at the end of this year but, for various reasons, the funds
> are not there. I am trying to decide at this point what I should do
> with the money I have set aside for it. My current options are:
>
> 1. Just keep waiting
> 2. Get a lower priced saw (maybe the Grizzly contractor saw)
> 3. Get a bandsaw (Griz 0555 probably)
>
> I know a bandsaw does not replace a table saw, but I plan to get one
> eventually and from what I have heard the 0555 is as good a one as I
> will need. I'm thinking this might be a better purchase than a
> cheaper TS since I wouldn't be buying something that I might
> eventually feel I need to replace.
>
> Most of what I make/want to make, include bookcases, and other simple
> furniture.
>
> Any opinions or suggestions?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> YJJim

Well, it wasn't on my list of options, but I was at the borg on
Saturday and picked up a BT3100 for $240 (plus no payments or interest
until 2005). At less then 1/2 the price of the cheapest Grizzly
contractors saw (once you add shipping), it was hard to pass up. I
guess the best thing about it is that I will have a decent saw to use
on my projects while I keep dreaming about a cabinet saw. The more I
think about it, the better I think this option is because it gives me
a table saw (albeit a small one) without investing too much so I won't
feel bad replacing it with a cabinet saw down the road. Plus, if it
cuts well, I can move on to filling out my shop before chunking down
the megabucks on a good saw.

Thanks to everyone for their advice,
YJJim


[email protected] (YJJim) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Thank you to everyone who has responded! It has been very helpful.
>
> I think that for what I make, the bandsaw is probably not needed yet.
> My jigsaw should suffice.
>
> My current setup includes a miter saw (non-sliding), circular saw, jig
> saw, routers (and table), and various other hand tools. I have been
> wanting to get a "big machine" to make various tasks easier and more
> efficient. I guess the table saw is the next purchase. As far as
> which one/type to get, it seems like everyone advises against buying a
> contractors saw in favor of a cabinet type. This seems to make sense
> since once I buy it, I don't plan to buy another one. I'm still not
> sure that I would ever push a contractors saw to its limit, but most
> folks here seems to wish they had started with cabinet saw so I'll
> rely on your experience.
>
> I think I'll check out the used market, but possibly wait until I can
> afford the griz 1023. Decisions decisions.
>
> Thanks again for all of your comments and suggestions. This group is
> a world of help to us novices.
>
> YJJim
>
>
> [email protected] (YJJim) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> > I have been in the market for a tablesaw for about two years and had
> > basically settled on the Grizzly 1023 cabinet saw. I had planned on
> > buying one at the end of this year but, for various reasons, the funds
> > are not there. I am trying to decide at this point what I should do
> > with the money I have set aside for it. My current options are:
> >
> > 1. Just keep waiting
> > 2. Get a lower priced saw (maybe the Grizzly contractor saw)
> > 3. Get a bandsaw (Griz 0555 probably)
> >
> > I know a bandsaw does not replace a table saw, but I plan to get one
> > eventually and from what I have heard the 0555 is as good a one as I
> > will need. I'm thinking this might be a better purchase than a
> > cheaper TS since I wouldn't be buying something that I might
> > eventually feel I need to replace.
> >
> > Most of what I make/want to make, include bookcases, and other simple
> > furniture.
> >
> > Any opinions or suggestions?
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > YJJim

I'd be happy to let everyone know how it is once I get it up and
running. The unopened box is in my shop waiting for me to finish my
current project, a train table (for Brio train stuff) for my son for
Christmas. It is just about complete, but I didn't want any
distractions since it has to be done by Thursday morning.

I'm looking forward to getting it set up and breaking it in on my
first project with a table saw! My brother will be the lucky
recipient of this first project since I told him I would make him a
bookcase for Christmas... although, it will be more like Christmas in
January. He knew it wouldn't be ready for Christmas, but maybe I'll
wrap a couple boards for him anyway. :)

Jim

[email protected] (Charles Krug) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> On 22 Dec 2003 05:22:54 -0800, YJJim <[email protected]> wrote:
> > Well, it wasn't on my list of options, but I was at the borg on
> > Saturday and picked up a BT3100 for $240 (plus no payments or interest
> > until 2005). At less then 1/2 the price of the cheapest Grizzly
> > contractors saw (once you add shipping), it was hard to pass up. I
> > guess the best thing about it is that I will have a decent saw to use
> > on my projects while I keep dreaming about a cabinet saw. The more I
> > think about it, the better I think this option is because it gives me
> > a table saw (albeit a small one) without investing too much so I won't
> > feel bad replacing it with a cabinet saw down the road. Plus, if it
> > cuts well, I can move on to filling out my shop before chunking down
> > the megabucks on a good saw.
> >
> > Thanks to everyone for their advice,
> > YJJim
> >
>
> After you get it all set up and calibrated, I for one would like to hear
> how it works for you.
>
> Let us all know, K?

Well, I finally got my BT3100 set up a couple weeks ago and used it
for its first project... a bookcase.

So far, I have been very happy with the BT3100. It was very easy to
put together, took about 1 1/2 hours with the "help" of my 5 year old
daughter. I figure it would take about 45 minutes to an hour to do it
by yourself. Most of the assembly is just the metal stand. The rails
went on easy and were very easy to align. Most everything was
perfectly aligned right out of the box. The fence locks down firm in
the front and back so it doesn't flex at all. One feature of the
BT3100 that is kind of nice, I guess, but I don't think I'll use, is
the movable rails feature. You can move the rails to the right or
left giving you up to 31" of rip capacity. The standard position
gives you 24" to the right, and the sliding miter table to the left.
I don't want to bother with aligning the rip scale often, so I don't
plan to move the rails... but, I guess it is a nice feature to have
when needed.

After checking the alignment (and sending my daughter to play
upstairs), I made several test cuts and it cuts very well. On regular
boards, the cut was clean and smooth... I'm sure it isn't the cut
quality of a cab saw or even this saw with a WWII blade, but even with
the stock blade, the cut quality seemed very good. On plywood, the
cut is very good, but I don't have a zero clearance plate yet so the
veneer face on my birch ply splintered a lot... just need to use
marking tape on the cut line until I get a zero clearance plate.

The sliding miter table is possibly the best feature. It makes
crosscuts REALLY easy. Having never owned a table saw, I don't know
just how big of an improvement this is over using a standard miter
gage, but it is nice to easily slide the boards for a cross cut. In
making my book shelf, I wanted to make sure my shelves were exactly
the same legnth, so I stacked 4 shelves (3/4" each) and clamped them
together. I put these on the sliding table and easily crosscut all 4
together. I did this partially to get the cuts identical, but mostly
to test the power of the saw. It cut through 3 1/2" of plywood
easily. I guess the inner plys of birch ply are not typically really
hard wood, but it was a decent test none the less.

I still hope to get a cabinet saw some day, but for now, the BT3100 is
a very nice saw and will serve me very well. Plus, I saved about
$1000 (paid $260 for the 3100) over what I would spend on a cabinet
saw. Now, I have some money to get the drill press, planer, jointer,
band saw, etc. that I have my eyes on. I highly recommend the BT3100
for a newbie that needs (wants) a table saw and doesn't have a ton of
cash to spend.

YJJim

[email protected] (Charles Krug) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> On 22 Dec 2003 05:22:54 -0800, YJJim <[email protected]> wrote:
> > Well, it wasn't on my list of options, but I was at the borg on
> > Saturday and picked up a BT3100 for $240 (plus no payments or interest
> > until 2005). At less then 1/2 the price of the cheapest Grizzly
> > contractors saw (once you add shipping), it was hard to pass up. I
> > guess the best thing about it is that I will have a decent saw to use
> > on my projects while I keep dreaming about a cabinet saw. The more I
> > think about it, the better I think this option is because it gives me
> > a table saw (albeit a small one) without investing too much so I won't
> > feel bad replacing it with a cabinet saw down the road. Plus, if it
> > cuts well, I can move on to filling out my shop before chunking down
> > the megabucks on a good saw.
> >
> > Thanks to everyone for their advice,
> > YJJim
> >
>
> After you get it all set up and calibrated, I for one would like to hear
> how it works for you.
>
> Let us all know, K?

On 1 Dec 2003 05:43:18 -0800, [email protected] (YJJim) wrote:

>I have been in the market for a tablesaw for about two years and had
>basically settled on the Grizzly 1023 cabinet saw. I had planned on
>buying one at the end of this year but, for various reasons, the funds
>are not there. I am trying to decide at this point what I should do
>with the money I have set aside for it. My current options are:
>
>1. Just keep waiting
>2. Get a lower priced saw (maybe the Grizzly contractor saw)
>3. Get a bandsaw (Griz 0555 probably)
>
>I know a bandsaw does not replace a table saw, but I plan to get one
>eventually and from what I have heard the 0555 is as good a one as I
>will need. I'm thinking this might be a better purchase than a
>cheaper TS since I wouldn't be buying something that I might
>eventually feel I need to replace.
>
>Most of what I make/want to make, include bookcases, and other simple
>furniture.

My WW tasks and projects seem similar to yours, I bought a JET 18" BS
and for ply, MDF, or wood ripping I use a clamped edge with a circ saw
with a *good* 40 tooth TC blade. Does all I want. Sold the TS as I did
not get much use for it, and it was occupying good space for not much
use. Don't really miss it.

Barry Lennox

Pretty tough question to answer until you decide what the preponderance of
your woodworking projects will be.

Nonetheless, keep in mind a quality jig saw can take the place of many of
the bandsaw cuts you may need to make until you can justify owning one.


--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 9/21/03


"YJJim" wrote in message
> I have been in the market for a tablesaw for about two years and had
> basically settled on the Grizzly 1023 cabinet saw. I had planned on
> buying one at the end of this year but, for various reasons, the funds
> are not there. I am trying to decide at this point what I should do
> with the money I have set aside for it. My current options are:
>
> 1. Just keep waiting
> 2. Get a lower priced saw (maybe the Grizzly contractor saw)
> 3. Get a bandsaw (Griz 0555 probably)
>
> I know a bandsaw does not replace a table saw, but I plan to get one
> eventually and from what I have heard the 0555 is as good a one as I
> will need. I'm thinking this might be a better purchase than a
> cheaper TS since I wouldn't be buying something that I might
> eventually feel I need to replace.
>
> Most of what I make/want to make, include bookcases, and other simple
> furniture.
>
> Any opinions or suggestions?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> YJJim

Original blade for BT3000 was "designed" by Freud for the saw. Great
blade and Forrest made it cut sharper than new.

On Mon, 22 Dec 2003 14:01:43 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Do buy a good blade though. Mine came with a combination blade that was
>suitable for framing, but not for accurate, smooth cuts. Plan on $50 and up
>for a good blade.

true,

maybe that's why I'm hedging my bets by having just purchased a BS just
for those occasions! Just picked up a 3/16" blade yesterday so I can
scroll now.

dave

[email protected] wrote:

>
> whether a bandsaw or a table saw will be most useful to you is a
> matter of what kind of work you do. think about somebody building
> rocking chairs, or wooden toys with a table saw and no bandsaw.... or
> somebody building boxes and cabinets with a bandsaw and no table saw.
> Bridger

If I were just starting, (and thank goodness I'm not) the first power tool I
would buy is a 12" sliding miter saw. Most have a adequate cross cut
capacity, you can cut dado's, and of course miter's. And your hand don't
generally come very close to the blade. I find a lot of new people are
intimidated by a band saw, and foolishly careless around a table saw. And I
could have included myself in the previous group. Whatever your choice keep
a good sharp blade in it, the last thing you want is a saw that is
difficult/dangerous to use.

Dave

"YJJim" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have been in the market for a tablesaw for about two years and had
> basically settled on the Grizzly 1023 cabinet saw. I had planned on
> buying one at the end of this year but, for various reasons, the funds
> are not there. I am trying to decide at this point what I should do
> with the money I have set aside for it. My current options are:
>
> 1. Just keep waiting
> 2. Get a lower priced saw (maybe the Grizzly contractor saw)
> 3. Get a bandsaw (Griz 0555 probably)
>
> I know a bandsaw does not replace a table saw, but I plan to get one
> eventually and from what I have heard the 0555 is as good a one as I
> will need. I'm thinking this might be a better purchase than a
> cheaper TS since I wouldn't be buying something that I might
> eventually feel I need to replace.
>
> Most of what I make/want to make, include bookcases, and other simple
> furniture.
>
> Any opinions or suggestions?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> YJJim

ever try to get a perfect cut on melamine with a circular saw? You
might get a STRAIGHT cut, but you won't get a passable cut.

I occasionally cut 4x8's down before using the TS, but I got tired of
the rough cuts and do 98% of panel cutting on the Unisaw. Sure wish I
had a panel saw! :)

dave

YJJim wrote:

> That is what I currently do. I have a long straight edge that I clamp
> down and use as a guide. I saw a guide system in the tool crib
> catalog that actually attaches to a circular saw to assure that the
> saw passes smoothly along the straight edge without leaving the edge.
> I think it cost about $80 and I'm not sure if it would produce better
> results than my current straight edge system. Even if I get the
> bandsaw, I'll still need something for ripping plywood.
>
> Do you use anything more complicated than a clamped straight edge? If
> so, is it worth the money?
>
> Thanks again,
> YJJim
>
> Richards <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>
>>YJJim wrote:
>>
>>>I have been in the market for a tablesaw for about two years and had
>>>basically settled on the Grizzly 1023 cabinet saw. I had planned on
>>>buying one at the end of this year but, for various reasons, the funds
>>>are not there. I am trying to decide at this point what I should do
>>>with the money I have set aside for it. My current options are:
>>>
>>>1. Just keep waiting
>>>2. Get a lower priced saw (maybe the Grizzly contractor saw)
>>>3. Get a bandsaw (Griz 0555 probably)
>>>
>>>I know a bandsaw does not replace a table saw, but I plan to get one
>>>eventually and from what I have heard the 0555 is as good a one as I
>>>will need. I'm thinking this might be a better purchase than a
>>>cheaper TS since I wouldn't be buying something that I might
>>>eventually feel I need to replace.
>>>
>>>Most of what I make/want to make, include bookcases, and other simple
>>>furniture.
>>>
>>>Any opinions or suggestions?
>>>
>>>Thanks in advance,
>>>YJJim
>>
>>Another option is to buy a good circular saw with a good guide system.
>>I use the Festool. Most of the time, I rip and crosscut 5x5 baltic
>>birch plywood without ever going to my Unisaw for the simple reason that
>>it's easier to move a saw along the plywood than it is to move plywood
>>along the saw. The Festool leaves a smoother edge than the Unisaw and
>>is just as accurate (with the guide).
>>
>>A word of caution about bandsaws; if you buy one, buy a good one. I
>>have a 14" Jet, but it is less than ideal. Jet makes fine tools,
>>including fine bandsaws, but the 14" is too small for serious re-sawing.
>> One of their larger models would do a much better job.

"YJJim" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> 2. Get a lower priced saw (maybe the Grizzly contractor saw)>
> Most of what I make/want to make, include bookcases, and other simple
> furniture.

I'd go with No. 2.
A contractor saw is quite adequate for most bookcase type of work. You'll
get a better, more accurate edge that you will with a bandsaw.
Ed

On Mon 01 Dec 2003 08:41:08a, Richards <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> A word of caution about bandsaws; if you buy one, buy a good one. I
> have a 14" Jet, but it is less than ideal. Jet makes fine tools,
> including fine bandsaws, but the 14" is too small for serious re-sawing.
> One of their larger models would do a much better job.


Do you mean the saw is underpowered for it, or is your idea of "serious" a
little more than mine? :-) I bought a used Jet 14'' with a riser block and
although I haven't had a chance to resaw anything yet, it sure looks to me
like all I need is large enough infeed/outfeed tables and I could run a
twelve-inch log through it. Seems to me anything larger than that would be
better and safer done on a sawmill. Or are you lacking a riser and just
don't have the clearance?

Dan

[email protected] (YJJim) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
My current options are:
>
> 1. Just keep waiting
> 2. Get a lower priced saw (maybe the Grizzly contractor saw)
> 3. Get a bandsaw (Griz 0555 probably)
>

Get a contractor's saw.. I have had a delta contractor's saw for a
long time.
I have the money to upgrade to a cabinent saw if I chose, but I see no
reason too. I contractor's saw with a good fence is fine for home
woodworking IMO (naturally after you add a good outfeed table).

And if you put a good ripping blade on, you can still rip through 2"
maple or oak with ease. There's plenty of power.

Naturally a cabinent saw is better, but IMO if you buy a good
contractor's saw, you may never have the need to upgrade.

You can even make dust collection pretty good on a contractor's saw
(boxing in the bottom area with 1/4 inch plywood)

On Mon, 01 Dec 2003 22:13:00 GMT, Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> wrote:

>ever try to get a perfect cut on melamine with a circular saw? You
>might get a STRAIGHT cut, but you won't get a passable cut.
>
>I occasionally cut 4x8's down before using the TS, but I got tired of
>the rough cuts and do 98% of panel cutting on the Unisaw. Sure wish I
>had a panel saw! :)
>
>dave
>

I get almost as good a cut with a handheld saw as I do with my cabinet
saw. the trick is having the right blade and jigging the saw up
properly. 7" melamine cutting blades are kind of hard to come by and
pricey at that but assuming that your saw has decent bearings and a
well aligned shoe you can get a very good cut. you can also do some
things that are inconvenient and/or dangerous on a table saw, like
pocket cuts, blind cuts and big tapers.

if you look at some panel saws you will note that the power unit in
most of them is.... a handheld type circular saw mounted in a jig.

whether a bandsaw or a table saw will be most useful to you is a
matter of what kind of work you do. think about somebody building
rocking chairs, or wooden toys with a table saw and no bandsaw.... or
somebody building boxes and cabinets with a bandsaw and no table saw.
Bridger

"YJJim" <[email protected]> wrote in message
...
> Well, it wasn't on my list of options, but I was at the borg on
> Saturday and picked up a BT3100 for $240

Good for you. The low end saws are nowhere near the quality of a good
cabinet saw, but it does not mean you cannot make good projects on it. I
started out with a cheapie and made some items that were useful and
appreciated. Takes a little more time to get the fence set accurately, but
it can be done.

Do buy a good blade though. Mine came with a combination blade that was
suitable for framing, but not for accurate, smooth cuts. Plan on $50 and up
for a good blade.
Ed

YJJim wrote:
> I have been in the market for a tablesaw for about two years and had
> basically settled on the Grizzly 1023 cabinet saw. I had planned on
> buying one at the end of this year but, for various reasons, the funds
> are not there. I am trying to decide at this point what I should do
> with the money I have set aside for it. My current options are:
>
> 1. Just keep waiting
> 2. Get a lower priced saw (maybe the Grizzly contractor saw)
> 3. Get a bandsaw (Griz 0555 probably)
>
> I know a bandsaw does not replace a table saw, but I plan to get one
> eventually and from what I have heard the 0555 is as good a one as I
> will need. I'm thinking this might be a better purchase than a
> cheaper TS since I wouldn't be buying something that I might
> eventually feel I need to replace.
>
> Most of what I make/want to make, include bookcases, and other simple
> furniture.
>
> Any opinions or suggestions?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> YJJim

Another option is to buy a good circular saw with a good guide system.
I use the Festool. Most of the time, I rip and crosscut 5x5 baltic
birch plywood without ever going to my Unisaw for the simple reason that
it's easier to move a saw along the plywood than it is to move plywood
along the saw. The Festool leaves a smoother edge than the Unisaw and
is just as accurate (with the guide).

A word of caution about bandsaws; if you buy one, buy a good one. I
have a 14" Jet, but it is less than ideal. Jet makes fine tools,
including fine bandsaws, but the 14" is too small for serious re-sawing.
One of their larger models would do a much better job.

YJJim wrote:
> That is what I currently do. I have a long straight edge that I clamp
> down and use as a guide. I saw a guide system in the tool crib
> catalog that actually attaches to a circular saw to assure that the
> saw passes smoothly along the straight edge without leaving the edge.
> I think it cost about $80 and I'm not sure if it would produce better
> results than my current straight edge system. Even if I get the
> bandsaw, I'll still need something for ripping plywood.
>
> Do you use anything more complicated than a clamped straight edge? If
> so, is it worth the money?
>
> Thanks again,
> YJJim

Jim,

Look carefully at the Festool system (I have no affiliation with
Festool). Their saw and guide system are different than other circular
saws and guides. Their guide does *not* need to be clamped to the
plywood; it incorporates rubber strips that hold the guide in position.
(I didn't believe it when I bought the saw and ended up buying their
clamp system - which I have not needed.) Their guide system also has a
rubber edge that eliminates chip out. The standard blade with the guide
system produced cuts in melamine that had *no* chip-out (on the side
covered with the guide). My Unisaw with a zero-clearance throat plate
can't do that.

Last Saturday, I made more than 75 full-length rip cuts in 5'x5' baltic
birch plywood in a little more than 90 minutes. I laid the plywood on a
styrofoam insulation sheet (which was on a foldable table), set the saw
to plunge about 1/8" into the styrofoam, marked a reference line on each
end of the plywood, slid the guide into position and made the cuts.
Every cut was perfect. When it was all over, I didn't have an aching
back from sliding full sheets of plywood repeatedly over my table saw,
nor did I have cuts that needed to be fixed at the jointer to clean up
the edges; I had finished cuts that were as good as or better than any I
had ever made with the Unisaw.

Please don't misunderstand. I would not give up my Unisaw in favor of
the Festool; but, I would buy the Festool first if my funds were limited
and I needed one saw that would get me by until I could buy a quality
cabinet saw. In my case, I bought the Festool after I'd already bought
a radial arm saw, a contractors saw, a Unisaw, a bandsaw, two other
quality circular saws, various guide rails, a jointer, a 15" planner, 17
routers (I really love routers), a 2-hp shaper, a 12" chop saw, a drill
press, etc., etc., etc. Were I to start over, I would buy the Festool
circular saw with guide rails and vacuum, the Festool router with hole
guide system, and then I would buy the big stuff when I had the need for
it. As it stands now, I usually grab the Festool stuff, make the
cuts, and have things put away before I could even clean off the big
tools to start things up.

Dan wrote:
> On Mon 01 Dec 2003 08:41:08a, Richards <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>
>>A word of caution about bandsaws; if you buy one, buy a good one. I
>>have a 14" Jet, but it is less than ideal. Jet makes fine tools,
>>including fine bandsaws, but the 14" is too small for serious re-sawing.
>> One of their larger models would do a much better job.
>
>
>
> Do you mean the saw is underpowered for it, or is your idea of "serious" a
> little more than mine? :-) I bought a used Jet 14'' with a riser block and
> although I haven't had a chance to resaw anything yet, it sure looks to me
> like all I need is large enough infeed/outfeed tables and I could run a
> twelve-inch log through it. Seems to me anything larger than that would be
> better and safer done on a sawmill. Or are you lacking a riser and just
> don't have the clearance?
>
> Dan

I also have the riser block assembly. My problem is that the motor just
doesn't have the power to re-saw heavy lumber. When I first got the
bandsaw, I cut 700+ linear feet of 2x8 redwood for the grow boxes in my
garden. It was easy, leading me to believe that I could resaw anything
with that saw. Then, I tried resawing some old 2 x 10 white oak - it
just didn't work. Yes, I was able to cut the lumber, but found that it
was just about as much fun as chopping mortises in white oak with a
chisel. I tried several different blades - no great improvement. I
felt like I was trying to pull a house trailer with a VW Beetle. The
simple truth was that I was trying to push the tool way beyound it's
capabilities.

The 14" Jet is great for normal (non-resawing) applications, and even
light re-sawing, but thinking that a $600 saw can compete with a $2,500
Laguna (or other heavy-duty saw of your choice), when re-sawing is the
primary goal, is, in my opinion, optimistic wishing.

On 1 Dec 2003 05:43:18 -0800, [email protected] (YJJim) wrote:

>I have been in the market for a tablesaw for about two years and had
>basically settled on the Grizzly 1023 cabinet saw. I had planned on
>buying one at the end of this year but, for various reasons, the funds
>are not there. I am trying to decide at this point what I should do
>with the money I have set aside for it. My current options are:
>
>1. Just keep waiting
>2. Get a lower priced saw (maybe the Grizzly contractor saw)
>3. Get a bandsaw (Griz 0555 probably)
>
>I know a bandsaw does not replace a table saw, but I plan to get one
>eventually and from what I have heard the 0555 is as good a one as I
>will need. I'm thinking this might be a better purchase than a
>cheaper TS since I wouldn't be buying something that I might
>eventually feel I need to replace.
>
>Most of what I make/want to make, include bookcases, and other simple
>furniture.
>
>Any opinions or suggestions?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>YJJim


I bought my bandsaw after my tablesaw. You just can't cut curves on a
tablesaw very well, but a jigsaw does the job. Without a tablesaw,
building a bookcase will be a challenge. But, I've built many quality
furniture pieces with just hand tools. It just takes longer.

YJJim wrote:
> 1. Just keep waiting

One question - if you get hit by a truck tomorrow...will you regret
dying having never satisfied your woodworking desires???

> 2. Get a lower priced saw (maybe the Grizzly contractor saw)

Go for it. It will do most things well enough for most home
woodworkers...and many pros. I have a Delta CS and my BIL has
the Grizzly. They are both good saw. I have a larger rip
capacity and I like the Unifence over the Grizzly fence, but
I paid considerably more. I would not hesitate to recommend
the Grizzly.

--
************************************
Chris Merrill
[email protected]
(remove the ZZZ to contact me)
************************************

On Mon, 01 Dec 2003 16:52:27 -0700, [email protected] wrote:

>On 1 Dec 2003 12:36:21 -0800, [email protected] (YJJim) wrote:
>
>>That is what I currently do. I have a long straight edge that I clamp
>>down and use as a guide. I saw a guide system in the tool crib
>>catalog that actually attaches to a circular saw to assure that the
>>saw passes smoothly along the straight edge without leaving the edge.
>>I think it cost about $80 and I'm not sure if it would produce better
>>results than my current straight edge system. Even if I get the
>>bandsaw, I'll still need something for ripping plywood.
>>
>>Do you use anything more complicated than a clamped straight edge? If
>>so, is it worth the money?
>>
>>Thanks again,
>>YJJim
>
>
>
>I use a homemade setup with a plywood "T" square clamped on to the
>sheet goods and an indexing jig to space it all the right distance
>from the blade. quick and easy, plenty accurate enough.
> Bridger

I do the same thing. And I built a couple of notched 2x4's to go
across the horses...so its easy to cut right down the middle and not
lose the pieces.


Have a nice week...

Trent

Dyslexics of the world ... UNTIE !

Yes, and if you decide woodworking is what you REALLY want to pour
your money and time into, then you can sell it and buy a Cabinet saw.
I am glad I did not start out with a cabinet saw because i would not
have known how much I needed it and would not appreciate it nearly as
much.



On Mon, 01 Dec 2003 14:13:11 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>
>"YJJim" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> 2. Get a lower priced saw (maybe the Grizzly contractor saw)>
>> Most of what I make/want to make, include bookcases, and other simple
>> furniture.
>
>I'd go with No. 2.
> A contractor saw is quite adequate for most bookcase type of work. You'll
>get a better, more accurate edge that you will with a bandsaw.
>Ed
>

On Mon, 22 Dec 2003 14:01:43 GMT, Edwin Pawlowski's fingers viciously
stabbed at an innocent keyboard to form the now famous if slightly awkward
haiku:

>
>"YJJim" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>...
>> Well, it wasn't on my list of options, but I was at the borg on
>> Saturday and picked up a BT3100 for $240
>
>Good for you. The low end saws are nowhere near the quality of a good
>cabinet saw, but it does not mean you cannot make good projects on it. I
>started out with a cheapie and made some items that were useful and
>appreciated. Takes a little more time to get the fence set accurately, but
>it can be done.
>
>Do buy a good blade though. Mine came with a combination blade that was
>suitable for framing, but not for accurate, smooth cuts. Plan on $50 and up
>for a good blade.
>Ed
>
The blade that came with the BT3100 is very good for starters. It's a
rebadged Freud.
I picked an unfortunate time to sell mine on Epay, this week :((
I think I would have more bids if HD wasn't having this damn sale.
When's the sale over anyways?

Mowgli

On 1 Dec 2003 05:43:18 -0800, [email protected] (YJJim) wrote:

>I have been in the market for a tablesaw for about two years and had
>basically settled on the Grizzly 1023 cabinet saw. I had planned on
>buying one at the end of this year but, for various reasons, the funds
>are not there. I am trying to decide at this point what I should do
>with the money I have set aside for it. My current options are:
>
>1. Just keep waiting
>2. Get a lower priced saw (maybe the Grizzly contractor saw)
>3. Get a bandsaw (Griz 0555 probably)
>
>I know a bandsaw does not replace a table saw, but I plan to get one
>eventually and from what I have heard the 0555 is as good a one as I
>will need. I'm thinking this might be a better purchase than a
>cheaper TS since I wouldn't be buying something that I might
>eventually feel I need to replace.
>
>Most of what I make/want to make, include bookcases, and other simple
>furniture.
>
>Any opinions or suggestions?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>YJJim

Consider buying BOTH...used...either locally or on the Internet.


Have a nice week...

Trent

Dyslexics of the world ... UNTIE !

On 22 Dec 2003 05:22:54 -0800, YJJim <[email protected]> wrote:
> Well, it wasn't on my list of options, but I was at the borg on
> Saturday and picked up a BT3100 for $240 (plus no payments or interest
> until 2005). At less then 1/2 the price of the cheapest Grizzly
> contractors saw (once you add shipping), it was hard to pass up. I
> guess the best thing about it is that I will have a decent saw to use
> on my projects while I keep dreaming about a cabinet saw. The more I
> think about it, the better I think this option is because it gives me
> a table saw (albeit a small one) without investing too much so I won't
> feel bad replacing it with a cabinet saw down the road. Plus, if it
> cuts well, I can move on to filling out my shop before chunking down
> the megabucks on a good saw.
>
> Thanks to everyone for their advice,
> YJJim
>

After you get it all set up and calibrated, I for one would like to hear
how it works for you.

Let us all know, K?

if you're on a budget, shop for used machinery. you'll get more for
your money, and with a little advance research (www.owwm.com) you will
find that many of the old machines are better built than what is
available new.

another approach is to forgo the stationaty machinery for now and get
some quality handheld tools. a router will do dado joints for
bookcases just fine. a circular saw and straightedge will cut up
plywood and a jigsaw will cut curves. use those to build a solid
workbench and some shop shelving. make something nice for swmbo. make
boxes. make toys. develop your skills and find out what it is that you
want to be making. then start thinking about buying some machinery.

and as far as the tablesaw/bandsaw decision, here's a truism for you:
the tablesaw is the heart of the cabinet shop. the bandsaw is the
heart of the furniture shop.
Bridger






On 1 Dec 2003 05:43:18 -0800, [email protected] (YJJim) wrote:

>I have been in the market for a tablesaw for about two years and had
>basically settled on the Grizzly 1023 cabinet saw. I had planned on
>buying one at the end of this year but, for various reasons, the funds
>are not there. I am trying to decide at this point what I should do
>with the money I have set aside for it. My current options are:
>
>1. Just keep waiting
>2. Get a lower priced saw (maybe the Grizzly contractor saw)
>3. Get a bandsaw (Griz 0555 probably)
>
>I know a bandsaw does not replace a table saw, but I plan to get one
>eventually and from what I have heard the 0555 is as good a one as I
>will need. I'm thinking this might be a better purchase than a
>cheaper TS since I wouldn't be buying something that I might
>eventually feel I need to replace.
>
>Most of what I make/want to make, include bookcases, and other simple
>furniture.
>
>Any opinions or suggestions?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>YJJim

On 1 Dec 2003 12:36:21 -0800, [email protected] (YJJim) wrote:

>That is what I currently do. I have a long straight edge that I clamp
>down and use as a guide. I saw a guide system in the tool crib
>catalog that actually attaches to a circular saw to assure that the
>saw passes smoothly along the straight edge without leaving the edge.
>I think it cost about $80 and I'm not sure if it would produce better
>results than my current straight edge system. Even if I get the
>bandsaw, I'll still need something for ripping plywood.
>
>Do you use anything more complicated than a clamped straight edge? If
>so, is it worth the money?
>
>Thanks again,
>YJJim



I use a homemade setup with a plywood "T" square clamped on to the
sheet goods and an indexing jig to space it all the right distance
from the blade. quick and easy, plenty accurate enough.
Bridger

A couple of months ago I purchased myself an inexpensive Craftsman TS, $160
including legs, dust bag, and extra blade. Had a BS for a couple years, and
now find that I use the TS much more than I ever used the BS. For the
dollar, that Chraftsman TS has been a very good buy.

Pete
http://www.Pistoleer.com - Retail & Wholesale (PH/FX 618-288-4588)
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