I started spraying a coat of T-9 Boeshield on my cast iron tops and letting
it dry (unwiped). When I am ready to use the tools I just wipe up the
residue with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits.
It can sometimes be a pain in the arse, but I now my cast iron tops will be
protected.
When you know you will be in between projects for a while, what, if any,
precautions do you take?
(yeah, I want to keep my new saw looking shiny too!)
--
www.garagewoodworks.com
Garage_Woodworks wrote:
> I started spraying a coat of T-9 Boeshield on my cast iron tops and
> letting it dry (unwiped). When I am ready to use the tools I just
> wipe up the residue with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits.
>
> It can sometimes be a pain in the arse, but I now my cast iron tops
> will be protected.
>
> When you know you will be in between projects for a while, what, if
> any, precautions do you take?
>
> (yeah, I want to keep my new saw looking shiny too!)
Probably depends on local climate and I image the shop space itself but here
in the NW a coat of Johnson paste wax keeps my cast iron tops rust free(as
well as hand saws etc.)...once or twice a year I suppose for lightly used
tools or when the spirit moves....basement shop with little to no heat....I
just this week polished the table saw and jointer, not for rust but for
improved material handling(slicker).....Rod
On Thu, 31 Jan 2008 16:43:39 -0500, "Garage_Woodworks" <.@.> wrote:
>>>
>>> How well does that work? I haven't tried that.
>>
>> It works by repelling moisture and shielding the metal from Oxygen.
>
>In theory. How well does it work in a practical manner? Is better than
>leaving a thick coat of boshield or top coat and letting them dry (unwiped)?
>Have you found that it is difficult to remove or apply? Have you ever
>noticed any left over residue getting on your project and ruining it?
>
>
Well, if you want to keep an AK-47 rust free for 2o years, it's what you want to
use..
Think of the gunk that is spread all over new tools... I went through 1/2 a roll
of paper towels and several rags the other night while unpacking a new lathe..
I'd guess that if you didn't wash down your saw with solvent before each use,
you'd want to avoid cosmoline..lol
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
"Rod & Betty Jo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Garage_Woodworks wrote:
>> I started spraying a coat of T-9 Boeshield on my cast iron tops and
>> letting it dry (unwiped). When I am ready to use the tools I just
>> wipe up the residue with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits.
>>
>> It can sometimes be a pain in the arse, but I now my cast iron tops
>> will be protected.
>>
>> When you know you will be in between projects for a while, what, if
>> any, precautions do you take?
>>
>> (yeah, I want to keep my new saw looking shiny too!)
>
> Probably depends on local climate and I image the shop space itself but
> here in the NW a coat of Johnson paste wax keeps my cast iron tops rust
> free(as well as hand saws etc.)...once or twice a year I suppose for
> lightly used tools or when the spirit moves....basement shop with little
> to no heat....I just this week polished the table saw and jointer, not for
> rust but for improved material handling(slicker).....Rod
Living in humid Houston I use TopCote, tried Boshield but did not like it
and I got rust any way using it.
I did to a surface re-do in November using Empire Top Saver. I used a 3M
Scotch Brite pad under my ROS and worked the product in. The top cleaned up
very nicely and I really have had no rust problems with just that treatment.
On Jan 29, 8:36 pm, "Garage_Woodworks" <.@.> wrote:
> I started spraying a coat of T-9 Boeshield on my cast iron tops and letting
I would be interested in prices for this stuff - best place to buy it.
Hate to admit it, but the stuff is a bit pricey for me:
I found this: Anyone know a better deal?
TopeCote Amazon Price: $10.55
T-9 Boeshield Amazon Price: $14.75
>> Living in humid Houston I use TopCote, tried Boshield but did not like it
>> and I got rust any way using it.
>> I did to a surface re-do in November using Empire Top Saver. I used a 3M
>> Scotch Brite pad under my ROS and worked the product in. The top cleaned
>> up very nicely and I really have had no rust problems with just that
>> treatment.
> I use wax about once a year, but in between I keep a plywood cover on my
> castiron TS table. I waxed the underside of the cover and I think that
> helps a lot. It also helps if I have to put something down quickly I dont
> scratch the table.
Thanks Andy. I am a little suprised by the lack of responses to this
question. I guess most people either 'never' go in between projects very
long, or they don't care about rust.
The ply wood cover is a good idea. Thanks.
>> Thanks Andy. I am a little suprised by the lack of responses to this
>> question. I guess most people either 'never' go in between projects very
>> long, or they don't care about rust.
>
> Actually, the topic as been discussed to death, reincarnated and
> rediscussed
> to death a dozen times. That's probably why you didn't get many responses,
> most people here are sick of talking about it.
I'm specifically talking about LONG periods (months) of time in between.
I'm not talking about day to day protection.
>
>
>>
>> How well does that work? I haven't tried that.
>
> It works by repelling moisture and shielding the metal from Oxygen.
In theory. How well does it work in a practical manner? Is better than
leaving a thick coat of boshield or top coat and letting them dry (unwiped)?
Have you found that it is difficult to remove or apply? Have you ever
noticed any left over residue getting on your project and ruining it?
>
> --
>
> FF
"Hoosierpopi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:317c8fb6-bb80-4c33-9e5a-75ad062d1606@e10g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
> On Jan 29, 8:36 pm, "Garage_Woodworks" <.@.> wrote:
>> I started spraying a coat of T-9 Boeshield on my cast iron tops and
>> letting
>
> I would be interested in prices for this stuff - best place to buy it.
> Hate to admit it, but the stuff is a bit pricey for me:
> I found this: Anyone know a better deal?
>
> TopeCote Amazon Price: $10.55
>
> T-9 Boeshield Amazon Price: $14.75
>
>
How about $8.98 for TopCote?
http://wwhardware.com/catalog.cfm/GroupID/Saw%20Blades/CatID/Saw%20Blade%20Lubricants%20%26%20Accessories/showprod/1
Scroll down.
"Garage_Woodworks" <.@.> wrote in message
>
> I'm specifically talking about LONG periods (months) of time in between.
> I'm not talking about day to day protection.
Well, can't say that I've ever pondered on what to do under that type of
circumstance. Having a saw (and a location available for use) means that
I've used it on a regular basis whenever I could. However, I did put a
Rockwell contractor's saw (cast iron top) into an unheated rented storage
locker for a period of five years and at the end of that time, some WD40 and
steel wool were sufficient to remove the surface rust and bring the surface
back to a perfectly flat, smooth usable condition.
"Garage_Woodworks" <.@.> wrote in message
>
> Thanks Andy. I am a little suprised by the lack of responses to this
> question. I guess most people either 'never' go in between projects very
> long, or they don't care about rust.
Actually, the topic as been discussed to death, reincarnated and rediscussed
to death a dozen times. That's probably why you didn't get many responses,
most people here are sick of talking about it.
Fred the Red Shirt wrote:
>>>Well then, use cosmoline.
>>
>>How well does that work? I haven't tried that.
>
>
> It works by repelling moisture and shielding the metal from
> Oxygen.
...and when to decide to remove the cosmoline, if there was any rust,
the effort it takes to get the cosmoline off will remove the rust as
well. ;-)
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
In article <[email protected]>, .@. says...
> I started spraying a coat of T-9 Boeshield on my cast iron tops and letting
> it dry (unwiped). When I am ready to use the tools I just wipe up the
> residue with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits.
>
> It can sometimes be a pain in the arse, but I now my cast iron tops will be
> protected.
>
> When you know you will be in between projects for a while, what, if any,
> precautions do you take?
>
> (yeah, I want to keep my new saw looking shiny too!)
TopCote. It's hideously expensive here, but it WORKS.
-P.
--
=========================================
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com
"Peter Huebner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, .@. says...
>> I started spraying a coat of T-9 Boeshield on my cast iron tops and
>> letting
>> it dry (unwiped). When I am ready to use the tools I just wipe up the
>> residue with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits.
>>
>> It can sometimes be a pain in the arse, but I now my cast iron tops will
>> be
>> protected.
>>
>> When you know you will be in between projects for a while, what, if any,
>> precautions do you take?
>>
>> (yeah, I want to keep my new saw looking shiny too!)
>
> TopCote. It's hideously expensive here, but it WORKS.
>
> -P.
>
> --
> =========================================
> firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com
Johnson's wax is remarkably inexpensive and it protects all my tools, both
hand and power.
"Garage_Woodworks" <.@.> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I started spraying a coat of T-9 Boeshield on my cast iron tops and letting
>it dry (unwiped). When I am ready to use the tools I just wipe up the
>residue with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits.
>
> It can sometimes be a pain in the arse, but I now my cast iron tops will
> be protected.
>
> When you know you will be in between projects for a while, what, if any,
> precautions do you take?
>
> (yeah, I want to keep my new saw looking shiny too!)
>
> --
> www.garagewoodworks.com
>
>
Your new saw was just delivered and you are thinking ahead to time between
projects?
I ordered the PM2000 (1792001K) and it will be delivered next week. Photos
to follow.
Jack
On Wed, 30 Jan 2008 17:08:32 -0500, Garage_Woodworks wrote:
>>> Living in humid Houston I use TopCote, tried Boshield but did not like
>>> it and I got rust any way using it.
>>> I did to a surface re-do in November using Empire Top Saver. I used a
>>> 3M Scotch Brite pad under my ROS and worked the product in. The top
>>> cleaned up very nicely and I really have had no rust problems with
>>> just that treatment.
>> I use wax about once a year, but in between I keep a plywood cover on
>> my castiron TS table. I waxed the underside of the cover and I think
>> that helps a lot. It also helps if I have to put something down
>> quickly I dont scratch the table.
>
> Thanks Andy. I am a little suprised by the lack of responses to this
> question. I guess most people either 'never' go in between projects
> very long, or they don't care about rust.
I too use a plywood cover it works great. Surprisingly, I've never had a
rust problem. Of course I live in New Mexico and the only time we have
humidity is some days in July and August. I've always expected some
issue in summer but so far no problems. In winter our RH can get down
into the single digits (percent). I've heard tell of toilets drying out
but never seen it myself. I can say my fish tank loses 2 to 3 gallons of
water per week due to low humidity. Can't say I miss the mid-west with
100 degrees and 100% RH.
I do wax my tables periodically.
D. G. Adams
On Jan 31, 7:16 pm, "Garage_Woodworks" <.@.> wrote:
> >> I'm specifically talking about LONG periods (months) of time in between.
> >> I'm not talking about day to day protection.
>
> > Well then, use cosmoline.
>
> How well does that work? I haven't tried that.
It works by repelling moisture and shielding the metal from
Oxygen.
--
FF
On Tue, 29 Jan 2008 20:36:52 -0500, "Garage_Woodworks" <.@.> wrote:
>I started spraying a coat of T-9 Boeshield on my cast iron tops and letting
>it dry (unwiped). When I am ready to use the tools I just wipe up the
>residue with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits.
>
>It can sometimes be a pain in the arse, but I now my cast iron tops will be
>protected.
>
>When you know you will be in between projects for a while, what, if any,
>precautions do you take?
>
>(yeah, I want to keep my new saw looking shiny too!)
Live in the desert.
So far, so good....
--
"We need to make a sacrifice to the gods, find me a young virgin... oh, and bring something to kill"
Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com
On Jan 30, 10:42 pm, "Garage_Woodworks" <.@.> wrote:
> >> Thanks Andy. I am a little suprised by the lack of responses to this
> >> question. I guess most people either 'never' go in between projects very
> >> long, or they don't care about rust.
>
> > Actually, the topic as been discussed to death, reincarnated and
> > rediscussed
> > to death a dozen times. That's probably why you didn't get many responses,
> > most people here are sick of talking about it.
>
> I'm specifically talking about LONG periods (months) of time in between.
> I'm not talking about day to day protection.
>
Well then, use cosmoline.
--
FF
Leon wrote:
> "Rod & Betty Jo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Garage_Woodworks wrote:
>>> I started spraying a coat of T-9 Boeshield on my cast iron tops and
>>> letting it dry (unwiped). When I am ready to use the tools I just
>>> wipe up the residue with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits.
>>>
>>> It can sometimes be a pain in the arse, but I now my cast iron tops
>>> will be protected.
>>>
>>> When you know you will be in between projects for a while, what, if
>>> any, precautions do you take?
>>>
>>> (yeah, I want to keep my new saw looking shiny too!)
>> Probably depends on local climate and I image the shop space itself but
>> here in the NW a coat of Johnson paste wax keeps my cast iron tops rust
>> free(as well as hand saws etc.)...once or twice a year I suppose for
>> lightly used tools or when the spirit moves....basement shop with little
>> to no heat....I just this week polished the table saw and jointer, not for
>> rust but for improved material handling(slicker).....Rod
>
> Living in humid Houston I use TopCote, tried Boshield but did not like it
> and I got rust any way using it.
> I did to a surface re-do in November using Empire Top Saver. I used a 3M
> Scotch Brite pad under my ROS and worked the product in. The top cleaned up
> very nicely and I really have had no rust problems with just that treatment.
>
>
I use wax about once a year, but in between I keep a plywood cover on my
castiron TS table. I waxed the underside of the cover and I think that
helps a lot. It also helps if I have to put something down quickly I
dont scratch the table.
Andy
--
:: Clever Sig here ::
On Fri, 01 Feb 2008 20:25:41 -0800, Tim Douglass <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On Tue, 29 Jan 2008 20:36:52 -0500, "Garage_Woodworks" <.@.> wrote:
>
>>I started spraying a coat of T-9 Boeshield on my cast iron tops and letting
>>it dry (unwiped). When I am ready to use the tools I just wipe up the
>>residue with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits.
>>
>>It can sometimes be a pain in the arse, but I now my cast iron tops will be
>>protected.
>>
>>When you know you will be in between projects for a while, what, if any,
>>precautions do you take?
>>
>>(yeah, I want to keep my new saw looking shiny too!)
>
>Live in the desert.
>
>So far, so good....
Depends on the desert...
I never had rust problems living in Central Calif...
Moved to Baja and the humidity where we live (in the desert) rusted my table saw
over night..
If I don't use topcoat at least once a week, it gets a nice light-orange color..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing