Table Saw Rust

On Sat, 31 Jan 2004 01:07:28 GMT, Unisaw A100 <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Tom Watson wrote:
>>I've gone to using dewaxed shellac on my cast iron and it works great.
>
>
>I find living in an area near devoid of hoomidity works
>awful good. On the other hand, I'm sitting here with my
>balls frozen together.
>
>UA100



a little wax might help that ; ^ )

"Eric Johnson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Automotive car wax will protect from rust and I think makes the stock
> feeding considerably smoother.
>
automotive car wax works fine as a rust inhibitor and leaves a nice smooth
coating that allows wood to slide real easy, I think the silicone in the wax
makes it slicker then the other waxes. The silicone also coats the wood
being sawn and helps protect it from things such as wood finishes and
stains. I use Johnson's paste floor wax myself, almost as slick as the car
wax and no silicone to mess up a finish.

I have just started using the TopSaver System. I started with two of my planes and
will then treat the TS top and drill press table.
Hoyt

BeeFarmer wrote:

> Would this stuff be good?
>
> Top Saver System
> $21.00
> TopSaver- The all in one surface treatment for table top's. It is a Rust
> Remover/Lubricant/Surface Sealant/Conditioner for metal surfaces, it is
> unlike anything ever made. TopsaverT completely removes rust and corrosion
> from the pores of the metal surface. It reduces sliding friction, eliminates
> binding and surface hang-ups on tabletops, it also repels moisture and seals
> the surface pores against rust and corrosion.
>
> --
>
> OhioBeeFarmer
> Getting kids involved in Beekeeping
> http://www.Bee-Keepers.com
> http://www.homestead.com/BeeKeepers/Opening.html
>
> "Sweet Sawdust" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > "Eric Johnson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > Automotive car wax will protect from rust and I think makes the stock
> > > feeding considerably smoother.
> > >
> > automotive car wax works fine as a rust inhibitor and leaves a nice smooth
> > coating that allows wood to slide real easy, I think the silicone in the
> wax
> > makes it slicker then the other waxes. The silicone also coats the wood
> > being sawn and helps protect it from things such as wood finishes and
> > stains. I use Johnson's paste floor wax myself, almost as slick as the
> car
> > wax and no silicone to mess up a finish.
> >
> >

I'll jump in before the hoard and say CAREFUL! Most car wax contains
silcon that will be incompatable with some finishes. Use a paste wax to
cover the tablesaw (and any other bare metal surfaces that wood
contacts). I generally use Johnsons Paste Wax available at your local
BORG. It also slickens the surface a bit making it a bit easier feed
surface.
Allen
Catonsville, MD

In article <[email protected]>, Eric Johnson
<[email protected]> wrote:

> Automotive car wax will protect from rust and I think makes the stock
> feeding considerably smoother.
>
> "BeeFarmer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Just wanted to pop in here and ask a question about rust on my table saw.
> I
> > have a shop that I don't heat unless I am in there and using it. I
> figure
> > that the heat I build up while I am in there probably doesn't help when I
> > leave at the end of the day and it gets down to freezing. I at one time
> > would cover the saw with a tarp but now think this might not help as the
> > heat is trapped and causing condensation. So for now I have sprayed WD40
> > all over in hopes that it doesn't get too rusty. FYI for the last couple
> > of years in spring I have to use steel wool and WD40 to clean off the
> > surface rust...
> >
> > Any suggestions to keep the rust of is appreciated.
> >
> > --
> >
> > OhioBeeFarmer
> > Getting kids involved in Beekeeping
> > http://www.Bee-Keepers.com
> > http://www.homestead.com/BeeKeepers/Opening.html
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>

After reading posts about HDs carrying Seal Coat and local not
carrying I E-mail HD and their response was roughly "We'LL decide what
YOU buy in YOUR store as YOUR store will NOT carry it". Not quite
that bad but my impression of their mentality. Same with national
grocery chain, I asked a clerk about a product and she led me to the
spot where it used to be then checked with Mgr. "That item is no
longer authorized for this store" was his response. Found another
chain grocery where asking for a product get 85% shelf stock! Guess
where my money is spent! New hardware store recently opened and they
now carry Seal Coat, thankfully.

On Fri, 30 Jan 2004 17:14:11 GMT, [email protected] (Doug Miller)
wrote:

>Ya know, I keep hearing this, that JPW is available at the BORG -- and *none*
>of the BORGs in Indianapolis carry it. Can any of you guys who keep saying
>that they do, post a stock number for JPW at HD/Lowe's/Menards/whatever?

Unisaw A100 wrote:
> I find living in an area near devoid of hoomidity works
> awful good. On the other hand, I'm sitting here with my
> balls frozen together.
>
> UA100

A Men! Thats one of the great things about NM compared to PA ( or WS ?
) :-)
We do have to water the flower beds in the summer and even ocaisonally
in the
winter, but NO rust and lumber stored outside has a moisture content of
about
nothing. :-) it picks up moisture when you bring it inside from your
breath. :-)
...lew...

None found in Seattle yet either. I also have not been able to find the
white Scotch Brites that was suggested to me there or anywhere else.

The plan that was recommended to me was:

1. Green Scotch Brite w/WD40
2. White Scotch Brite w/WD40
3. #0000 Steel Wool w/WD40
4. Wet/Dry Sandpaper w/WD40 (600, 800, then 1000-grit)
5. Paste Wax

If the wings are webbed, instead of solid, just do the first step on them.

Haven't tried it yet, but I will most likely only do steps 1, 3, and 5 as I
would like to actually be able to use the damned thing someday before I
retire.



codepath




"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, "TexasFireGuy"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> >I've always had great success with paraffin.
> >
> >"Allen Epps" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:300120040854204476%[email protected]...
> >>
> >> I'll jump in before the hoard and say CAREFUL! Most car wax contains
> >> silcon that will be incompatable with some finishes. Use a paste wax to
> >> cover the tablesaw (and any other bare metal surfaces that wood
> >> contacts). I generally use Johnsons Paste Wax available at your local
> >> BORG.
>
> Ya know, I keep hearing this, that JPW is available at the BORG -- and
*none*
> of the BORGs in Indianapolis carry it. Can any of you guys who keep saying
> that they do, post a stock number for JPW at HD/Lowe's/Menards/whatever?
>
> --
> Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
>
> How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for
Miss America?

TopSaver won the Wood magazine comparison for the best all-in-one
remover/preventative product.

But, by far, the best performance was the Boeshield Rust Free (remover) and
Boeshield T-9 (preventative). That T-9 beat the living crap out of every
other product in the test.

IIRC, the total price for the Boeshield combo was even cheaper per ounce
than the TopSaver kit.

I already have the WD40 and paste wax so I will go that route and see how it
works here in the rainy Seattle area first. But, if it ends up a constant
struggle, it's time for Boeshield.


codepath




"BeeFarmer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Would this stuff be good?
>
> Top Saver System
> $21.00
> TopSaver- The all in one surface treatment for table top's. It is a Rust
> Remover/Lubricant/Surface Sealant/Conditioner for metal surfaces, it is
> unlike anything ever made. TopsaverT completely removes rust and corrosion
> from the pores of the metal surface. It reduces sliding friction,
eliminates
> binding and surface hang-ups on tabletops, it also repels moisture and
seals
> the surface pores against rust and corrosion.
>
> --
>
> OhioBeeFarmer
> Getting kids involved in Beekeeping
> http://www.Bee-Keepers.com
> http://www.homestead.com/BeeKeepers/Opening.html
>
>
>
> "Sweet Sawdust" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > "Eric Johnson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > Automotive car wax will protect from rust and I think makes the stock
> > > feeding considerably smoother.
> > >
> > automotive car wax works fine as a rust inhibitor and leaves a nice
smooth
> > coating that allows wood to slide real easy, I think the silicone in the
> wax
> > makes it slicker then the other waxes. The silicone also coats the wood
> > being sawn and helps protect it from things such as wood finishes and
> > stains. I use Johnson's paste floor wax myself, almost as slick as the
> car
> > wax and no silicone to mess up a finish.
> >
> >
>
>

Bellevue.

And I do not think that it qualifies as a "shop" per se. In fact, I think
that it would be an embarrassment to the word. But, I am working on it.

Two car garage (well my half of it anyway). Exposed insulation (no
sheetrock). Gull-wing-type doors (as opposed to tambour/roll-top) have huge
gaps around them, can see daylight around edges. Single pane window (swings
out like a door). Not heated. During heavy rain (and expect this to happen
any moment after yesterdays downpour), water sweats through concrete
exterior wall. Not to mention wife parking her wet car in there. The nerve!

My tools do not get wet directly and I have never seen any condensation on
them, but the amount of water vapor must be fairly high as I started seeing
oranging on the sides of the webbed CI wings. Almost imperceptible but
definitely there and I have only had the thing since Xmas and it was
spotless then. Not a good sign of things to come.

Not much I can do about any of these issues as I will be a dad again this
Wednesday and funds for all projects are on indefinite hold. But, I have
some green Scotch Brites, #0000, WD40, and paste wax. If I can steal even an
hour this weekend, I'll give a very quick once-over and slap some wax on it
to at least stop the progression long enough for things to settle down a
bit.


codepath




"Marc Hudson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Codepath,
>
> Where is your shop located in Seattle? I mean, is it in a garage,
> out-building, or basement? Mine's in my heated basement in the North
end -
> LFP to be specific. I'm just wondering how much of a rust problem you've
> seen as I haven't seen much, if any, in my shop ... not that I've done
> anything spectacular to prevent it, or anything at all for that matter.
:-)
>
> --Marc Hudson
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
>
>
> "codepath" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > None found in Seattle yet either. I also have not been able to find the
> > white Scotch Brites that was suggested to me there or anywhere else.
> >
> > The plan that was recommended to me was:
> >
> > 1. Green Scotch Brite w/WD40
> > 2. White Scotch Brite w/WD40
> > 3. #0000 Steel Wool w/WD40
> > 4. Wet/Dry Sandpaper w/WD40 (600, 800, then 1000-grit)
> > 5. Paste Wax
> >
> > If the wings are webbed, instead of solid, just do the first step on
them.
> >
> > Haven't tried it yet, but I will most likely only do steps 1, 3, and 5
as
> I
> > would like to actually be able to use the damned thing someday before I
> > retire.
> >
> >
> >
> > codepath
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > In article <[email protected]>, "TexasFireGuy"
> > <[email protected]> wrote:
> > > >I've always had great success with paraffin.
> > > >
> > > >"Allen Epps" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > >news:300120040854204476%[email protected]...
> > > >>
> > > >> I'll jump in before the hoard and say CAREFUL! Most car wax
contains
> > > >> silcon that will be incompatable with some finishes. Use a paste
wax
> to
> > > >> cover the tablesaw (and any other bare metal surfaces that wood
> > > >> contacts). I generally use Johnsons Paste Wax available at your
local
> > > >> BORG.
> > >
> > > Ya know, I keep hearing this, that JPW is available at the BORG -- and
> > *none*
> > > of the BORGs in Indianapolis carry it. Can any of you guys who keep
> saying
> > > that they do, post a stock number for JPW at
HD/Lowe's/Menards/whatever?
> > >
> > > --
> > > Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
> > >
> > > How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50
for
> > Miss America?
> >
> >
>
>

On Fri, 30 Jan 2004 08:33:17 -0500, "BeeFarmer"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Just wanted to pop in here and ask a question about rust on my table saw. I
>have a shop that I don't heat unless I am in there and using it. I figure
>that the heat I build up while I am in there probably doesn't help when I
>leave at the end of the day and it gets down to freezing. I at one time
>would cover the saw with a tarp but now think this might not help as the
>heat is trapped and causing condensation. So for now I have sprayed WD40
>all over in hopes that it doesn't get too rusty. FYI for the last couple
>of years in spring I have to use steel wool and WD40 to clean off the
>surface rust...
>
>Any suggestions to keep the rust of is appreciated.

You don't use beeswax on your tablessaw? I would, only that what I've
seen is a bit pricey. I use Johnsons Paste wax instead. If you
want moisture moving away from your saw, place a "piano keeper" in the
cabinet. This is a low-wattage heater used inside pianos to keep
moisture out of them.

Tom Watson wrote:
>I've gone to using dewaxed shellac on my cast iron and it works great.


I find living in an area near devoid of hoomidity works
awful good. On the other hand, I'm sitting here with my
balls frozen together.

UA100

<snip>
> Bad Idea.
>
> Don't use car wax on woodworking equipment. The silicone in it will cause
> fisheye when you apply finish.
<snip>

Hence my use of the word "WAX" not polish... there is a difference.

On Sat, 31 Jan 2004 19:04:29 -0500, "Dave" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Does anyone know if Minwax Paste Finishing Wax is "silicon free"

No idea.

>Why can't it contain silicon?

Silicon is sand. Not a problem.

Silicon_e_ is the bad stuff. This stuff is Satan's Anal Lubricant.
Does a number on almost any finish. Try searching for "fish eye" and
"m/(jesus built my )?hotrod/".

I won' be without silicone grease, for I live in a damp climate and
have sparkplugs. But the damned stuff only lives in the red car-fixing
toolbox and never goes into the workshop itself.

On Fri, 30 Jan 2004 20:40:51 GMT, [email protected] (Doug Miller)
wrote:

>In article <[email protected]>, "Eric Johnson" <[email protected]> wrote:
>><snip>
>>> Bad Idea.
>>>
>>> Don't use car wax on woodworking equipment. The silicone in it will cause
>>> fisheye when you apply finish.
>><snip>
>>
>>Hence my use of the word "WAX" not polish... there is a difference.
>>
>
>Of course there's a difference. But the difference is not relevant to this
>discussion, because *neither one* should be used in a wood shop.
>
>Car *wax* contains silicone, and should *not* be used on woodworking
>equipment, because the silicone in the wax interferes with many types of wood
>finishes.
>
>Car *polish* contains silicone *and* abrasives, and likewise should not be
>used on woodworking equipment, for reasons that I hope are obvious.




Doug-

you're overstating the case here.

SOME car finishing products contains silicone. not all do, and the
ones that don't are formulated a bit stiffer and harder than furniture
and floor waxes, which is actually a good thing for saw tops.
Bridger

In article <[email protected]>, "Eric Johnson" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>LMAO your histerical!
>http://www.meguiars.com.au/Get_Schooled38.htm
>
>That is if your implying all car wax has silicone.

No, not all. But some do -- and you can't tell which do, and which don't. Best
to stick with waxes that are *known* to be silicone-free.

>I only pursued this from personal experience, been using it for nearly 20
>years with no ill affects. Never said it was the only way and I did my best
>to avoid name brand promotion.
>
Guess you've been lucky so far. Some other poor schlub who follows your
misguided advice might not be so lucky. And then he'll post here, asking why
his finish fisheyed.

--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?

In article <[email protected]>, "Dave" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Does anyone know if Minwax Paste Finishing Wax is "silicon free"
>
Not according to Minwax. I phoned them last year and asked. They said there
isn't, and also mailed a copy of the MSDS -- which makes no mention of it.

>Why can't it contain silicon?

SiliconE with an E. Causes "fisheye" in some wood finishes.
>
>
>"Bridger" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Sat, 31 Jan 2004 03:20:01 GMT, [email protected] (Doug Miller)
>> wrote:
>>
>> >In article <[email protected]>, "Eric
>Johnson" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> >>
>> >>LMAO your histerical!
>> >>http://www.meguiars.com.au/Get_Schooled38.htm
>> >>
>> >>That is if your implying all car wax has silicone.
>> >
>> >No, not all. But some do -- and you can't tell which do, and which don't.
>Best
>> >to stick with waxes that are *known* to be silicone-free.
>> >
>> >>I only pursued this from personal experience, been using it for nearly
>20
>> >>years with no ill affects. Never said it was the only way and I did my
>best
>> >>to avoid name brand promotion.
>> >>
>> >Guess you've been lucky so far. Some other poor schlub who follows your
>> >misguided advice might not be so lucky. And then he'll post here, asking
>why
>> >his finish fisheyed.
>>
>>
>>
>> when buying paste wax a good clue is to look for the word "carnauba".
>> as far as I know there are no products on the market that contain both
>> silicone and carnauba.
>> Bridger
>
>

--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?

In article <[email protected]>, "TexasFireGuy" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I've always had great success with paraffin.
>
>"Allen Epps" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:300120040854204476%[email protected]...
>>
>> I'll jump in before the hoard and say CAREFUL! Most car wax contains
>> silcon that will be incompatable with some finishes. Use a paste wax to
>> cover the tablesaw (and any other bare metal surfaces that wood
>> contacts). I generally use Johnsons Paste Wax available at your local
>> BORG.

Ya know, I keep hearing this, that JPW is available at the BORG -- and *none*
of the BORGs in Indianapolis carry it. Can any of you guys who keep saying
that they do, post a stock number for JPW at HD/Lowe's/Menards/whatever?

--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?

Does anyone know if Minwax Paste Finishing Wax is "silicon free"

Why can't it contain silicon?


"Bridger" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 31 Jan 2004 03:20:01 GMT, [email protected] (Doug Miller)
> wrote:
>
> >In article <[email protected]>, "Eric
Johnson" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >>
> >>LMAO your histerical!
> >>http://www.meguiars.com.au/Get_Schooled38.htm
> >>
> >>That is if your implying all car wax has silicone.
> >
> >No, not all. But some do -- and you can't tell which do, and which don't.
Best
> >to stick with waxes that are *known* to be silicone-free.
> >
> >>I only pursued this from personal experience, been using it for nearly
20
> >>years with no ill affects. Never said it was the only way and I did my
best
> >>to avoid name brand promotion.
> >>
> >Guess you've been lucky so far. Some other poor schlub who follows your
> >misguided advice might not be so lucky. And then he'll post here, asking
why
> >his finish fisheyed.
>
>
>
> when buying paste wax a good clue is to look for the word "carnauba".
> as far as I know there are no products on the market that contain both
> silicone and carnauba.
> Bridger

"BeeFarmer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Just wanted to pop in here and ask a question about rust on my table saw.
I
> have a shop that I don't heat unless I am in there and using it. I
figure
> that the heat I build up while I am in there probably doesn't help when I
> leave at the end of the day and it gets down to freezing. I at one time
> would cover the saw with a tarp but now think this might not help as the
> heat is trapped and causing condensation. So for now I have sprayed WD40
> all over in hopes that it doesn't get too rusty. FYI for the last couple
> of years in spring I have to use steel wool and WD40 to clean off the
> surface rust...
>
> Any suggestions to keep the rust of is appreciated.
>
> --
>
> OhioBeeFarmer
> Getting kids involved in Beekeeping

Hi,
Had an uncle that did that, favorite candy as a kid was chewing on the the
part of the comb that he cut off before he put the frames in the extractor,
grew up thinking all candy was supposed to have bee parts in it. :-Q
Being cheap, I keep a plastic bottle half full of paint thinner(mineral
spirits) in which I've dissolved a chunk of parrifin, squirt some on a rag
and wipe the table down, let dry and buff lightly, if you're not going to
use it for awhile just apply a heavy coat and let dry, don't buff till
you're ready to use it. works for me.


--
"Shut up and keep diggen"
Jerry




>
>

I use bees wax.....works well. It is also great for wooden utensils and
waterproofing boots.
dave
"BeeFarmer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Just wanted to pop in here and ask a question about rust on my table saw.
I
> have a shop that I don't heat unless I am in there and using it. I
figure
> that the heat I build up while I am in there probably doesn't help when I
> leave at the end of the day and it gets down to freezing. I at one time
> would cover the saw with a tarp but now think this might not help as the
> heat is trapped and causing condensation. So for now I have sprayed WD40
> all over in hopes that it doesn't get too rusty. FYI for the last couple
> of years in spring I have to use steel wool and WD40 to clean off the
> surface rust...
>
> Any suggestions to keep the rust of is appreciated.
>
> --
>
> OhioBeeFarmer
> Getting kids involved in Beekeeping
> http://www.Bee-Keepers.com
> http://www.homestead.com/BeeKeepers/Opening.html
>
>
>
>

I've always had great success with paraffin.

"Allen Epps" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:300120040854204476%[email protected]...
>
> I'll jump in before the hoard and say CAREFUL! Most car wax contains
> silcon that will be incompatable with some finishes. Use a paste wax to
> cover the tablesaw (and any other bare metal surfaces that wood
> contacts). I generally use Johnsons Paste Wax available at your local
> BORG. It also slickens the surface a bit making it a bit easier feed
> surface.
> Allen
> Catonsville, MD
>
> In article <[email protected]>, Eric Johnson
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Automotive car wax will protect from rust and I think makes the stock
> > feeding considerably smoother.
> >
> > "BeeFarmer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > Just wanted to pop in here and ask a question about rust on my table
saw.
> > I
> > > have a shop that I don't heat unless I am in there and using it. I
> > figure
> > > that the heat I build up while I am in there probably doesn't help
when I
> > > leave at the end of the day and it gets down to freezing. I at one
time
> > > would cover the saw with a tarp but now think this might not help as
the
> > > heat is trapped and causing condensation. So for now I have sprayed
WD40
> > > all over in hopes that it doesn't get too rusty. FYI for the last
couple
> > > of years in spring I have to use steel wool and WD40 to clean off the
> > > surface rust...
> > >
> > > Any suggestions to keep the rust of is appreciated.
> > >
> > > --
> > >
> > > OhioBeeFarmer
> > > Getting kids involved in Beekeeping
> > > http://www.Bee-Keepers.com
> > > http://www.homestead.com/BeeKeepers/Opening.html
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >

I tried the Boeshield but didn't care for it much. It wasn't slippery at
all. I just use TopCote now. Haven't had any rust problems so far and it
is nice and slick. Easy and quick to apply too so I do it more often.
Maybe that helps too.

"Bob Schmall" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> One of the magazines just ran a comparo of rust removers and
preventatives.
> The clear winner--and it was way out in front--is the Boeshield pair of
T-9
> remover and their rust preventative. I use them both and can vouch for
them.
> The usual disclaimer--no connection, etc.
>
> Bob
>

I use Johnson's paste wax that I modify a bit by adding about 1/3
carnauba flakes in to raise the carnauba level. Makes for a harder
wax finish and a better product for my cast iron surfaces. You can
buy 1pound bags of flaked carnauba from Highland Hardware

John

On Fri, 30 Jan 2004 08:29:53 -0600, "Sweet Sawdust"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>
>"Eric Johnson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Automotive car wax will protect from rust and I think makes the stock
>> feeding considerably smoother.
>>
>automotive car wax works fine as a rust inhibitor and leaves a nice smooth
>coating that allows wood to slide real easy, I think the silicone in the wax
>makes it slicker then the other waxes. The silicone also coats the wood
>being sawn and helps protect it from things such as wood finishes and
>stains. I use Johnson's paste floor wax myself, almost as slick as the car
>wax and no silicone to mess up a finish.
>

BeeFarmer--according to an article describing the testing of various
products to remove rust and protect cast iron against rust in Wood
Magazine's recent issue, the best rust preventer was "Boeshield T-9" and for
cleaning the rust off first, they recommended "Boeshield Rust-Free" and
"Empire TopSaver". Link to Boeshield below. Good luck

Michael S.

http://www.boeshield.com/

----------------------------------------------------
"BeeFarmer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Just wanted to pop in here and ask a question about rust on my table saw.
I
> have a shop that I don't heat unless I am in there and using it. I
figure
> that the heat I build up while I am in there probably doesn't help when I
> leave at the end of the day and it gets down to freezing. I at one time
> would cover the saw with a tarp but now think this might not help as the
> heat is trapped and causing condensation. So for now I have sprayed WD40
> all over in hopes that it doesn't get too rusty. FYI for the last couple
> of years in spring I have to use steel wool and WD40 to clean off the
> surface rust...
>
> Any suggestions to keep the rust of is appreciated.
>
> --
>
> OhioBeeFarmer
> Getting kids involved in Beekeeping
> http://www.Bee-Keepers.com
> http://www.homestead.com/BeeKeepers/Opening.html
>
>
>
>

Automotive car wax will protect from rust and I think makes the stock
feeding considerably smoother.

"BeeFarmer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Just wanted to pop in here and ask a question about rust on my table saw.
I
> have a shop that I don't heat unless I am in there and using it. I
figure
> that the heat I build up while I am in there probably doesn't help when I
> leave at the end of the day and it gets down to freezing. I at one time
> would cover the saw with a tarp but now think this might not help as the
> heat is trapped and causing condensation. So for now I have sprayed WD40
> all over in hopes that it doesn't get too rusty. FYI for the last couple
> of years in spring I have to use steel wool and WD40 to clean off the
> surface rust...
>
> Any suggestions to keep the rust of is appreciated.
>
> --
>
> OhioBeeFarmer
> Getting kids involved in Beekeeping
> http://www.Bee-Keepers.com
> http://www.homestead.com/BeeKeepers/Opening.html
>
>
>
>

Would this stuff be good?

Top Saver System
$21.00
TopSaver- The all in one surface treatment for table top's. It is a Rust
Remover/Lubricant/Surface Sealant/Conditioner for metal surfaces, it is
unlike anything ever made. TopsaverT completely removes rust and corrosion
from the pores of the metal surface. It reduces sliding friction, eliminates
binding and surface hang-ups on tabletops, it also repels moisture and seals
the surface pores against rust and corrosion.

--

OhioBeeFarmer
Getting kids involved in Beekeeping
http://www.Bee-Keepers.com
http://www.homestead.com/BeeKeepers/Opening.html



"Sweet Sawdust" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Eric Johnson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Automotive car wax will protect from rust and I think makes the stock
> > feeding considerably smoother.
> >
> automotive car wax works fine as a rust inhibitor and leaves a nice smooth
> coating that allows wood to slide real easy, I think the silicone in the
wax
> makes it slicker then the other waxes. The silicone also coats the wood
> being sawn and helps protect it from things such as wood finishes and
> stains. I use Johnson's paste floor wax myself, almost as slick as the
car
> wax and no silicone to mess up a finish.
>
>

Bob Schmall wrote:
> One of the magazines just ran a comparo of rust removers and preventatives.
> The clear winner--and it was way out in front--is the Boeshield pair of T-9
> remover and their rust preventative. I use them both and can vouch for them.
> The usual disclaimer--no connection, etc.
>
> Bob

It's the latest issue of WOOD.

--
Donnie Vazquez
Sunderland, MD
remove NoSpam from address to reply

Codepath,

Where is your shop located in Seattle? I mean, is it in a garage,
out-building, or basement? Mine's in my heated basement in the North end -
LFP to be specific. I'm just wondering how much of a rust problem you've
seen as I haven't seen much, if any, in my shop ... not that I've done
anything spectacular to prevent it, or anything at all for that matter. :-)

--Marc Hudson
----------------------------------------------------------------------------


"codepath" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> None found in Seattle yet either. I also have not been able to find the
> white Scotch Brites that was suggested to me there or anywhere else.
>
> The plan that was recommended to me was:
>
> 1. Green Scotch Brite w/WD40
> 2. White Scotch Brite w/WD40
> 3. #0000 Steel Wool w/WD40
> 4. Wet/Dry Sandpaper w/WD40 (600, 800, then 1000-grit)
> 5. Paste Wax
>
> If the wings are webbed, instead of solid, just do the first step on them.
>
> Haven't tried it yet, but I will most likely only do steps 1, 3, and 5 as
I
> would like to actually be able to use the damned thing someday before I
> retire.
>
>
>
> codepath
>
>
>
>
> "Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > In article <[email protected]>, "TexasFireGuy"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
> > >I've always had great success with paraffin.
> > >
> > >"Allen Epps" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > >news:300120040854204476%[email protected]...
> > >>
> > >> I'll jump in before the hoard and say CAREFUL! Most car wax contains
> > >> silcon that will be incompatable with some finishes. Use a paste wax
to
> > >> cover the tablesaw (and any other bare metal surfaces that wood
> > >> contacts). I generally use Johnsons Paste Wax available at your local
> > >> BORG.
> >
> > Ya know, I keep hearing this, that JPW is available at the BORG -- and
> *none*
> > of the BORGs in Indianapolis carry it. Can any of you guys who keep
saying
> > that they do, post a stock number for JPW at HD/Lowe's/Menards/whatever?
> >
> > --
> > Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
> >
> > How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for
> Miss America?
>
>

I just wrote that I put an oil-varnish mix on my tablesaw and some
will not like that idea.. When I was farming,it was well known that a
diesel tractor always looked filthy where you poured the diesel in.
BUT, when you washed it away, the metal under it was always perfectly
clean and always free of rust. I am told that diesel is full of
parafin which is why it won't work when it gets too cold- the parafin
in it "solidifies". Steel is porous and will absorb liquids and just
plain old cheap diesel fuel is another method to consider although it
is probably too simple for most. Worked in a factory one time where
they were too cheap to buy paint so we wiped everything down with
diesel. Never had any rust there and there was water everywhere.

On Fri, 30 Jan 2004 11:33:07 -0500, Donnie Vazquez
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Bob Schmall wrote:
>> One of the magazines just ran a comparo of rust removers and preventatives.
>> The clear winner--and it was way out in front--is the Boeshield pair of T-9
>> remover and their rust preventative. I use them both and can vouch for them.
>> The usual disclaimer--no connection, etc.
>>
>> Bob
>
>It's the latest issue of WOOD.

LMAO your histerical!
http://www.meguiars.com.au/Get_Schooled38.htm

That is if your implying all car wax has silicone.

I only pursued this from personal experience, been using it for nearly 20
years with no ill affects. Never said it was the only way and I did my best
to avoid name brand promotion.

<END>

On Sat, 31 Jan 2004 03:20:01 GMT, [email protected] (Doug Miller)
wrote:

>In article <[email protected]>, "Eric Johnson" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>LMAO your histerical!
>>http://www.meguiars.com.au/Get_Schooled38.htm
>>
>>That is if your implying all car wax has silicone.
>
>No, not all. But some do -- and you can't tell which do, and which don't. Best
>to stick with waxes that are *known* to be silicone-free.
>
>>I only pursued this from personal experience, been using it for nearly 20
>>years with no ill affects. Never said it was the only way and I did my best
>>to avoid name brand promotion.
>>
>Guess you've been lucky so far. Some other poor schlub who follows your
>misguided advice might not be so lucky. And then he'll post here, asking why
>his finish fisheyed.



when buying paste wax a good clue is to look for the word "carnauba".
as far as I know there are no products on the market that contain both
silicone and carnauba.
Bridger

On Sun, 01 Feb 2004 00:48:34 +0000, Andy Dingley
<[email protected]> wrote:

>On Sat, 31 Jan 2004 19:04:29 -0500, "Dave" <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>Does anyone know if Minwax Paste Finishing Wax is "silicon free"
>
>No idea.
>
>>Why can't it contain silicon?
>
>Silicon is sand. Not a problem.

sand is silicon dioxide.
silicon is a weird ultralightweight metal.
silicone is a polymer of silicon and oxygen.

>
>Silicon_e_ is the bad stuff. This stuff is Satan's Anal Lubricant.
>Does a number on almost any finish. Try searching for "fish eye" and
>"m/(jesus built my )?hotrod/".
>
>I won' be without silicone grease, for I live in a damp climate and
>have sparkplugs. But the damned stuff only lives in the red car-fixing
>toolbox and never goes into the workshop itself.

I won't have it around in any form beyond the occasional silicone
caulk.
Bridger

On Fri, 30 Jan 2004 08:33:17 -0500, "BeeFarmer"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Just wanted to pop in here and ask a question about rust on my table saw. I
>have a shop that I don't heat unless I am in there and using it. I figure
>that the heat I build up while I am in there probably doesn't help when I
>leave at the end of the day and it gets down to freezing. I at one time
>would cover the saw with a tarp but now think this might not help as the
>heat is trapped and causing condensation. So for now I have sprayed WD40
>all over in hopes that it doesn't get too rusty. FYI for the last couple
>of years in spring I have to use steel wool and WD40 to clean off the
>surface rust...
>
>Any suggestions to keep the rust of is appreciated.


I've gone to using dewaxed shellac on my cast iron and it works great.


Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker (ret)
Real Email is: tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet
Website: http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1

In article <[email protected]>, "Eric Johnson" <[email protected]> wrote:
><snip>
>> Bad Idea.
>>
>> Don't use car wax on woodworking equipment. The silicone in it will cause
>> fisheye when you apply finish.
><snip>
>
>Hence my use of the word "WAX" not polish... there is a difference.
>

Of course there's a difference. But the difference is not relevant to this
discussion, because *neither one* should be used in a wood shop.

Car *wax* contains silicone, and should *not* be used on woodworking
equipment, because the silicone in the wax interferes with many types of wood
finishes.

Car *polish* contains silicone *and* abrasives, and likewise should not be
used on woodworking equipment, for reasons that I hope are obvious.



--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?

In article <[email protected]>, "Eric Johnson" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Automotive car wax will protect from rust and I think makes the stock
>feeding considerably smoother.

Bad Idea.

Don't use car wax on woodworking equipment. The silicone in it will cause
fisheye when you apply finish.

Non-silicone-bearing paste waxes include:
* Johnson's Paste Wax
* Minwax Paste Finishing Wax
* Butcher's

Other products that may be more effective at preventing rust are Boeshield,
T9, and TopCote.

This has been discussed _to_death_ in this newsgroup. Doesn't _anybody_ use
Google anymore?
>
>"BeeFarmer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Just wanted to pop in here and ask a question about rust on my table saw.
>I
>> have a shop that I don't heat unless I am in there and using it. I
>figure
>> that the heat I build up while I am in there probably doesn't help when I
>> leave at the end of the day and it gets down to freezing. I at one time
>> would cover the saw with a tarp but now think this might not help as the
>> heat is trapped and causing condensation. So for now I have sprayed WD40
>> all over in hopes that it doesn't get too rusty. FYI for the last couple
>> of years in spring I have to use steel wool and WD40 to clean off the
>> surface rust...
>>
>> Any suggestions to keep the rust of is appreciated.
>>
>> --
>>
>> OhioBeeFarmer
>> Getting kids involved in Beekeeping
>> http://www.Bee-Keepers.com
>> http://www.homestead.com/BeeKeepers/Opening.html
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>

--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?

One of the magazines just ran a comparo of rust removers and preventatives.
The clear winner--and it was way out in front--is the Boeshield pair of T-9
remover and their rust preventative. I use them both and can vouch for them.
The usual disclaimer--no connection, etc.

Bob


"BeeFarmer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Just wanted to pop in here and ask a question about rust on my table saw.
I
> have a shop that I don't heat unless I am in there and using it. I
figure
> that the heat I build up while I am in there probably doesn't help when I
> leave at the end of the day and it gets down to freezing. I at one time
> would cover the saw with a tarp but now think this might not help as the
> heat is trapped and causing condensation. So for now I have sprayed WD40
> all over in hopes that it doesn't get too rusty. FYI for the last couple
> of years in spring I have to use steel wool and WD40 to clean off the
> surface rust...
>
> Any suggestions to keep the rust of is appreciated.
>
> --
>
> OhioBeeFarmer
> Getting kids involved in Beekeeping
> http://www.Bee-Keepers.com
> http://www.homestead.com/BeeKeepers/Opening.html
>
>
>
>