KB

"K. B."

04/06/2004 4:46 AM

How much finish sanding is enough

My first wood piece- a step stool.
Black walnut sides,
mahogany steps (2) tops
Oak stringers (4).

I have sanded with 60 then 100 then 150.
150 by hand.
How much is enough and to what grit? I can't see any sanding marks.
Should I wash the piece with water or blow it off with air before applying
finish?
Finish will be Tung oil.
Any tricks/ advise before applying tung oil?

Thanks for a great NG.


First Project,

KB
--



This topic has 11 replies

dA

[email protected] (Andy Dingley)

in reply to "K. B." on 04/06/2004 4:46 AM

04/06/2004 10:18 AM

Father Haskell <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...

> You won't notice any difference between 150 and higher grits.

240 grit is worh it IMHO. Although I'd also favour the scraper
instead.


> No scraper? Use bits of broken window.

A glass scraper is a good tool for removing old finishes, but it's not
so good for surface finishing. The chip formation method is different
(search - I've posted details before, or go and read either a textbook
on engineering cutting tools or Hoadley). Instead of thin shavings and
a smooth surface you'll get dust and a less than perfect finish.

Using a glass scraper is a like a badly-sharpened steel scraper. It's
sharp, but there's no hook and the edge angle is too blunt.

FH

Father Haskell

in reply to "K. B." on 04/06/2004 4:46 AM

04/06/2004 3:10 AM

K. B. wrote:
>
> My first wood piece- a step stool.
> Black walnut sides,
> mahogany steps (2) tops
> Oak stringers (4).
>
> I have sanded with 60 then 100 then 150.
> 150 by hand.
> How much is enough and to what grit? I can't see any sanding marks.
> Should I wash the piece with water or blow it off with air before applying
> finish?
> Finish will be Tung oil.
> Any tricks/ advise before applying tung oil?

You won't notice any difference between 150 and higher grits. Spare yourself
and reserve finer papers for in between finish coats. Spare yourself even
further by scraping before 150. Scrapers cut fast, don't clog, don't pack
the grain with sawdust, and don't leave deep scratches like 60 grit will.

No scraper? Use bits of broken window.

Don't wet the surface prior to using an oil-based finish. You'll just
make extra work, and grain raising isn't needed with a non-grain raising
finish.

Gg

"George"

in reply to "K. B." on 04/06/2004 4:46 AM

04/06/2004 12:34 PM

Mooted by application of finish, but nice try.

If you're really concerned, put grit in the finish. Wood looks best
without scratches bigger than the pores.

"Larry Jaques" <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 04 Jun 2004 05:24:46 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"
> >Seriously, last grit should be at least 220.
>
> For furniture, I'd agree with your 220, Lew, but this is a stepstool
> and I wouldn't want it quite as smooth or potentially slippery.
> I'd leave it at 150 grit if it were my stool.

dD

[email protected] (Daniel Martin)

in reply to "K. B." on 04/06/2004 4:46 AM

04/06/2004 7:43 AM

I agree using 220 grit for last sanding is what I also recommend. The
sanding will impact details not visible to the eye like stain and
finish.

Daniel


"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> "K. B." writes:
>
> <snip>
> > How much is enough and to what grit? I can't see any sanding marks.
> <snip>
>
> Sanding out a piece of furniture is a lot like fairing out a sailboat hull.
>
> There is an old saying that when your arms are ready to fall of from sanding
> with a long board, your hull if fair.
>
> Same applies to sanding out a piece of furniture.
>
> Seriously, last grit should be at least 220.
>
> HTH

MG

"Mike G"

in reply to "K. B." on 04/06/2004 4:46 AM

04/06/2004 8:48 AM

Your first grit should be one that removes ALL the flaws in an efficient
manner. In other words if the piece is already in really good shape it's not
necessary to start way down at 60 grit.

The sole purpose of all the other grits, since you have already gotten out
the flaws and machine marks, is ONLY to remove the marks from the previous
grits

Don't kill yourself with sanding. The major work is done with the first grit
and as long as you don't skip grits and apply the first grit properly things
should move along rapidly..

I prefer to stop at 180 grit, I know some that are comfortable at 150, and
some that like to stop at 220. Find the one you are comfortable with.

Keep in mind that if you are going to stain, not applicable this time, the
courser the grit you stop at the darker the color the is likely to be with
one coat.

End grain, even with just finish and no stain, will end up darker then the
rest of the piece if you don't sand it to a higher grit or use a sealer on
it to keep it from wicking up lots of the finish.

--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"K. B." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My first wood piece- a step stool.
> Black walnut sides,
> mahogany steps (2) tops
> Oak stringers (4).
>
> I have sanded with 60 then 100 then 150.
> 150 by hand.
> How much is enough and to what grit? I can't see any sanding marks.
> Should I wash the piece with water or blow it off with air before applying
> finish?
> Finish will be Tung oil.
> Any tricks/ advise before applying tung oil?
>
> Thanks for a great NG.
>
>
> First Project,
>
> KB
> --
>
>
>

hD

[email protected] (David Hall)

in reply to "K. B." on 04/06/2004 4:46 AM

04/06/2004 6:18 AM

"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> "K. B." writes:
>
> <snip>
> > How much is enough and to what grit? I can't see any sanding marks.
> <snip>
>
> Sanding out a piece of furniture is a lot like fairing out a sailboat hull.
>
> There is an old saying that when your arms are ready to fall of from sanding
> with a long board, your hull if fair.
>
> Same applies to sanding out a piece of furniture.
>
> Seriously, last grit should be at least 220.
>
> HTH


....and you should blow it off or wipe it off between each grit then
get it real clean before finishing.

LJ

Larry Jaques

in reply to "K. B." on 04/06/2004 4:46 AM

04/06/2004 7:41 AM

On Fri, 04 Jun 2004 05:24:46 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"
<[email protected]> stated, with eyes & arms akimbo:

>
>"K. B." writes:
>
><snip>
>> How much is enough and to what grit? I can't see any sanding marks.
><snip>
>
>Sanding out a piece of furniture is a lot like fairing out a sailboat hull.
>
>There is an old saying that when your arms are ready to fall of from sanding
>with a long board, your hull if fair.
>
>Same applies to sanding out a piece of furniture.
>
>Seriously, last grit should be at least 220.

For furniture, I'd agree with your 220, Lew, but this is a stepstool
and I wouldn't want it quite as smooth or potentially slippery.
I'd leave it at 150 grit if it were my stool.

--
Vidi, Vici, Veni
---
http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development

LJ

Larry Jaques

in reply to "K. B." on 04/06/2004 4:46 AM

07/06/2004 6:56 AM

On Fri, 4 Jun 2004 12:34:05 -0400, "George" <george@least> stated,
with eyes & arms akimbo:

>Mooted by application of finish, but nice try.

With a thick, glossy finish I might agree, but not with
a minimal application of tung oil.


>If you're really concerned, put grit in the finish. Wood looks best
>without scratches bigger than the pores.

Dat it do.


>"Larry Jaques" <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Fri, 04 Jun 2004 05:24:46 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"
>> >Seriously, last grit should be at least 220.
>>
>> For furniture, I'd agree with your 220, Lew, but this is a stepstool
>> and I wouldn't want it quite as smooth or potentially slippery.
>> I'd leave it at 150 grit if it were my stool.
>


------------------------------------------------------------------
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http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website & Database Development

Uu

"Upscale"

in reply to "K. B." on 04/06/2004 4:46 AM

04/06/2004 7:50 PM

"K. B." <[email protected]> wrote in message news:69Tvc.5694> My
first wood piece- a step stool.
> Black walnut sides,
> mahogany steps (2) tops
> Oak stringers (4).

- When the veneer you're sanding isn't there anymore, you've sanded enough.
- When the edge banding you've applied has disappeared in a spot, you've
sanded enough.
- When your sanding pad shows the hook and loop underneath, you've sanded
enough.
- When the belt on your belt sander wears off, you've sanded enough.
- When the finish you're applying pools all in one spot, you've sanded
enough.
- When your square table looks like an octagon card table, you've sanded
enough.
- When electricity bill triples from running the sander, you've sanded
enough.
- When you hit the stretchers underneath your tabletop, you've sanded
enough.

Apologies, I couldn't resist. :)

KB

"K. B."

in reply to "K. B." on 04/06/2004 4:46 AM

04/06/2004 11:15 PM

Thanks fellas for all the advise. I appreciate the time you've taken to
reply. I've learned more reading your replies than you would ever know.

Many thanks (a quick dusting with 220 it is).

--
KB



"K. B." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My first wood piece- a step stool.
> Black walnut sides,
> mahogany steps (2) tops
> Oak stringers (4).
>
> I have sanded with 60 then 100 then 150.
> 150 by hand.
> How much is enough and to what grit? I can't see any sanding marks.
> Should I wash the piece with water or blow it off with air before applying
> finish?
> Finish will be Tung oil.
> Any tricks/ advise before applying tung oil?
>
> Thanks for a great NG.
>
>
> First Project,
>
> KB
> --
>
>
>

LH

"Lew Hodgett"

in reply to "K. B." on 04/06/2004 4:46 AM

04/06/2004 5:24 AM


"K. B." writes:

<snip>
> How much is enough and to what grit? I can't see any sanding marks.
<snip>

Sanding out a piece of furniture is a lot like fairing out a sailboat hull.

There is an old saying that when your arms are ready to fall of from sanding
with a long board, your hull if fair.

Same applies to sanding out a piece of furniture.

Seriously, last grit should be at least 220.

HTH


--
Lew

S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: <http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett> for Pictures


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