I've been using the thin kerf style blades for a couple of years now but I'm
beginning to think I ought to go back to the 1/8" kerfed blades for my TS
and MS. Less deflection, longer life, more carbide for resharpening and a
kerf that's easy to account for are just a few reasons. The only advantage
to a thin kerf I can see is less strain on a motor when using a dull blade.
What are your thoughts?
Dave,
I switched to a 44 tooth GP Freud Diablo thin kerf on my 12" TS and have
been real happy with it. I have been mainly dealing with hard maple up to
8/4s, but also ply, teak and cedar (up to 16/4). I also cut all the
aluminum plate 3/4" for mounting servo motors for my CNC mill conversion. I
just installed it as with any blade, no stabalizers. I have cross cut glued
boards 20" wide and I can flip one side over and the butt is perfect.
Having a sliding table Wadkin where everything is adjustable does help:).
Another post mentioned re-sharpening, from memory I paid about $35.00 from
either Lowe's of HD, at that price I'd rather have a new blade.
Bernard R
"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> isn't that a tiny amount? I prefer the std kerf blade for being less
> flexible and more apt to run true. I HATE the thin kerf blades on my
> miter box; can't do a wide cut without getting a curved cut. no matter
> how slow I feed the blade. learned the hard way when cutting shallow
> drawer pieces from baltic birch. That problem prompted me to halt a
> project and spend the day building a 2 runner sled with Incra slides.
> Now I crosscut anything I want dead straight, on the TS.
>
> dave
>
> B a r r y wrote:
>
> > On Wed, 03 Mar 2004 22:53:45 GMT, "mel" <[email protected]>
> > wrote:
> >
> >
> >>I've been using the thin kerf style blades for a couple of years now but
I'm
> >>beginning to think I ought to go back to the 1/8" kerfed blades for my
TS
> >>and MS. Less deflection, longer life, more carbide for resharpening and
a
> >>kerf that's easy to account for are just a few reasons. The only
advantage
> >>to a thin kerf I can see is less strain on a motor when using a dull
blade.
> >>What are your thoughts?
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > What about the wood you save with narrower kerfs?
> >
> > Barry
>
Personally I find very little difference in wood saving between using a band
and table saw, presuming that the cut is within the capacity of both saws,
more so the thicker the wood. I am quite prepared to accept that it is my
technique. choice of equipment etc, in which case I welcome enlightenment.
I have found very few BS blades that track perfectly, I've tried euro style
flat , cam adjusted tangental and cool block type bearings. No matter how
carefully I adjust, the resulting cut always needs some planing action, with
both sides of the cut being planed net savings are generally zero.
Bernard R
"John Crea" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> What little extra wood you lose, you make up for in a more rigid, less
> likely to flex or warp blade in the full kerf versions
>
> Only time I can think that a thin kerf would be useful is on grossly
> underpowered saws, OR in production of LOTS of thin strips/inlay stuff
> with expensive exotic woods. And if the wood is that expensive/rare,
> then a bandsaw would be very viable alternative if not a better choice
> all around
>
> John
>
> On Thu, 04 Mar 2004 17:44:31 GMT, "mttt" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >
> >"B a r r y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >>
> >> >
> >> >> What about the wood you save with narrower kerfs?
> >> >>
> >> >> Barry
> >>
> >> Trollin', trollin' trollin'... <G>
> >>
> >> Barry
> >
> >Yeahbutt - what I lose in wood, I get back in sawdust.
> >(Necessary for those of us who still need a'lotta "filler") :)
> >
>
What little extra wood you lose, you make up for in a more rigid, less
likely to flex or warp blade in the full kerf versions
Only time I can think that a thin kerf would be useful is on grossly
underpowered saws, OR in production of LOTS of thin strips/inlay stuff
with expensive exotic woods. And if the wood is that expensive/rare,
then a bandsaw would be very viable alternative if not a better choice
all around
John
On Thu, 04 Mar 2004 17:44:31 GMT, "mttt" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"B a r r y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>
>> >
>> >> What about the wood you save with narrower kerfs?
>> >>
>> >> Barry
>>
>> Trollin', trollin' trollin'... <G>
>>
>> Barry
>
>Yeahbutt - what I lose in wood, I get back in sawdust.
>(Necessary for those of us who still need a'lotta "filler") :)
>
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> "B a r r y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >
> > What about the wood you save with narrower kerfs?
> >
> > Barry
>
> One of my neighbors had a wood shop for years and used thin kerf blades
for
> just that reason. When he retired, he used all the wood saved from it to
> build a new house and furniture for it. Sure is a lot of glue joints with
> all the small pieces, but he saved a bundle.
> Ed
>
OK.... time to fess up!!
Awww ... Now come on .... Who _gave_ him the forty tons of glue he needed
?????
Curious minds wanna know :-)
-- Steve
www.ApacheTrail.com/ww/
Penury is the mother of invention!
"B a r r y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> What about the wood you save with narrower kerfs?
>
> Barry
Oh.. No... you really did not ask that.... LOL
isn't that a tiny amount? I prefer the std kerf blade for being less
flexible and more apt to run true. I HATE the thin kerf blades on my
miter box; can't do a wide cut without getting a curved cut. no matter
how slow I feed the blade. learned the hard way when cutting shallow
drawer pieces from baltic birch. That problem prompted me to halt a
project and spend the day building a 2 runner sled with Incra slides.
Now I crosscut anything I want dead straight, on the TS.
dave
B a r r y wrote:
> On Wed, 03 Mar 2004 22:53:45 GMT, "mel" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>
>>I've been using the thin kerf style blades for a couple of years now but I'm
>>beginning to think I ought to go back to the 1/8" kerfed blades for my TS
>>and MS. Less deflection, longer life, more carbide for resharpening and a
>>kerf that's easy to account for are just a few reasons. The only advantage
>>to a thin kerf I can see is less strain on a motor when using a dull blade.
>>What are your thoughts?
>>
>
>
>
> What about the wood you save with narrower kerfs?
>
> Barry
I've got a Ridgid TS2400LS saw. We got it almost 2 years ago when I was
starting taking classes in woodshop. If I knew then what I know now, I
would have spent the extra money and bought a "real" cabinet saw. I've
ripped alder, oak and cedar with the WW2 with no problems (maybe a little
burn, but no hesitation).
Ok, you've convinced me to save the $90 at the show and buy some other
"toy". Also I've got $85 coming to me from working at the polling place
this last Tuesday. Wow, what can $175 buy?
"Paul Kierstead" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:pmkierst-B1FF15.18272403032004@nntp.bloor.is.net.cable.rogers.com...
> In article <[email protected]>,
>
> I use a full kerf on a 2HP saw and it goes through wood like butter. Ok,
> I haven't tried 12/4 maple yet, but 4/4 maple is a breeze...
>
> Does your saw have a hard time? Slow feed rates or bogging? If not, why
> buy a thin kerf blade if you have a very expensive regular kerf blade
> already?
"mel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've been using the thin kerf style blades for a couple of years now but
I'm
> beginning to think I ought to go back to the 1/8" kerfed blades for my TS
> and MS. Less deflection, longer life, more carbide for resharpening and a
> kerf that's easy to account for are just a few reasons. The only
advantage
> to a thin kerf I can see is less strain on a motor when using a dull
blade.
> What are your thoughts?
For me, a thin kerf cuts better in two specific instances.
(1) on wood that's 1/4 or less, given equal quality/sharpness/etc of the
blades. I'm at a loss to explain it, but I get a noticeably cleaner cut.
(2) on treated wood. (yea, go ahead and laugh, I rip/crosscut that stuff
from time to time on my table saw for my neighbors...)
In just about any other case, especially the thicker or softer the wood, a
full kerf works better for me.
++ Dave
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> "B a r r y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >
> > What about the wood you save with narrower kerfs?
> >
> > Barry
>
> One of my neighbors had a wood shop for years and used thin kerf blades
for
> just that reason. When he retired, he used all the wood saved from it to
> build a new house and furniture for it. Sure is a lot of glue joints with
> all the small pieces, but he saved a bundle.
> Ed
Uh huh..
"B a r r y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> What about the wood you save with narrower kerfs?
>
> Barry
One of my neighbors had a wood shop for years and used thin kerf blades for
just that reason. When he retired, he used all the wood saved from it to
build a new house and furniture for it. Sure is a lot of glue joints with
all the small pieces, but he saved a bundle.
Ed
"Wilson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've been told by the folks that sell WW2, that think kerf is better
suited
> for a TS with less that 3HP.
> I've got the regular kerf and I'm planning to by the thin kerf at the next
> Woodworkers Show in Sacramento.
I hear them say that also but don't understand it. Maybe 1/2 hp for thin
kerf as a regular kerf worked fine on my old 1 hp TS.
"Wilson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've been told by the folks that sell WW2, that think kerf is better
suited
> for a TS with less that 3HP.
> I've got the regular kerf and I'm planning to by the thin kerf at the next
> Woodworkers Show in Sacramento.
Unless you cut a lot of thick stock, I don't see much benefit but I do see
some potential problems with wavy cuts. They also recommend a stabilizer
with the thin kerf. For my use, I just don't seen enough of a benefit.
Ed
On Wed, 03 Mar 2004 22:53:45 GMT, "mel" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I've been using the thin kerf style blades for a couple of years now but I'm
>beginning to think I ought to go back to the 1/8" kerfed blades for my TS
>and MS. Less deflection, longer life, more carbide for resharpening and a
>kerf that's easy to account for are just a few reasons. The only advantage
>to a thin kerf I can see is less strain on a motor when using a dull blade.
>What are your thoughts?
>
What about the wood you save with narrower kerfs?
Barry
"B a r r y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> >
> >> What about the wood you save with narrower kerfs?
> >>
> >> Barry
>
> Trollin', trollin' trollin'... <G>
>
> Barry
Yeahbutt - what I lose in wood, I get back in sawdust.
(Necessary for those of us who still need a'lotta "filler") :)
"mel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've been using the thin kerf style blades for a couple of years now but
I'm
> beginning to think I ought to go back to the 1/8" kerfed blades for my TS
> and MS. Less deflection, longer life, more carbide for resharpening and a
> kerf that's easy to account for are just a few reasons. The only
advantage
> to a thin kerf I can see is less strain on a motor when using a dull
blade.
> What are your thoughts?.
Mel I believe you have a good grasp on the subject.
On Wed, 03 Mar 2004 23:54:10 GMT, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"B a r r y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>
>> What about the wood you save with narrower kerfs?
>>
>> Barry
>
>
>Oh.. No... you really did not ask that.... LOL
>
Trollin', trollin' trollin'... <G>
Barry
I think the slider is what allows a straight cut. When a thin kerf
blade is mounted on a non slider, it's more likely a wide cut will be bowed.
dave
Bernard Randall wrote:
> Dave,
>
> I switched to a 44 tooth GP Freud Diablo thin kerf on my 12" TS and have
> been real happy with it. I have been mainly dealing with hard maple up to
> 8/4s, but also ply, teak and cedar (up to 16/4). I also cut all the
> aluminum plate 3/4" for mounting servo motors for my CNC mill conversion. I
> just installed it as with any blade, no stabalizers. I have cross cut glued
> boards 20" wide and I can flip one side over and the butt is perfect.
> Having a sliding table Wadkin where everything is adjustable does help:).
>
> Another post mentioned re-sharpening, from memory I paid about $35.00 from
> either Lowe's of HD, at that price I'd rather have a new blade.
>
> Bernard R
>
> "Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>isn't that a tiny amount? I prefer the std kerf blade for being less
>>flexible and more apt to run true. I HATE the thin kerf blades on my
>>miter box; can't do a wide cut without getting a curved cut. no matter
>>how slow I feed the blade. learned the hard way when cutting shallow
>>drawer pieces from baltic birch. That problem prompted me to halt a
>>project and spend the day building a 2 runner sled with Incra slides.
>>Now I crosscut anything I want dead straight, on the TS.
>>
>>dave
>>
>>B a r r y wrote:
>>
>>
>>>On Wed, 03 Mar 2004 22:53:45 GMT, "mel" <[email protected]>
>>>wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>I've been using the thin kerf style blades for a couple of years now but
>
> I'm
>
>>>>beginning to think I ought to go back to the 1/8" kerfed blades for my
>
> TS
>
>>>>and MS. Less deflection, longer life, more carbide for resharpening and
>
> a
>
>>>>kerf that's easy to account for are just a few reasons. The only
>
> advantage
>
>>>>to a thin kerf I can see is less strain on a motor when using a dull
>
> blade.
>
>>>>What are your thoughts?
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>What about the wood you save with narrower kerfs?
>>>
>>>Barry
>>
>
>
In article <[email protected]>,
"Wilson" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I've been told by the folks that sell WW2, that think kerf is better suited
> for a TS with less that 3HP.
> I've got the regular kerf and I'm planning to by the thin kerf at the next
> Woodworkers Show in Sacramento.
I use a full kerf on a 2HP saw and it goes through wood like butter. Ok,
I haven't tried 12/4 maple yet, but 4/4 maple is a breeze...
Does your saw have a hard time? Slow feed rates or bogging? If not, why
buy a thin kerf blade if you have a very expensive regular kerf blade
already?
In article <[email protected]>,
"Wilson" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Ok, you've convinced me to save the $90 at the show and buy some other
> "toy". Also I've got $85 coming to me from working at the polling place
> this last Tuesday. Wow, what can $175 buy?
A little bit of cherry? Buy wood!!!
I always cut treated wood outside. You are either a saint or the
neighbors make it worth your while, somehow. Are they blonde, by any
chance? :)
dave
Dave wrote:
> "mel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>I've been using the thin kerf style blades for a couple of years now but
>
> I'm
>
>>beginning to think I ought to go back to the 1/8" kerfed blades for my TS
>>and MS. Less deflection, longer life, more carbide for resharpening and a
>>kerf that's easy to account for are just a few reasons. The only
>
> advantage
>
>>to a thin kerf I can see is less strain on a motor when using a dull
>
> blade.
>
>>What are your thoughts?
>
>
> For me, a thin kerf cuts better in two specific instances.
>
> (1) on wood that's 1/4 or less, given equal quality/sharpness/etc of the
> blades. I'm at a loss to explain it, but I get a noticeably cleaner cut.
>
> (2) on treated wood. (yea, go ahead and laugh, I rip/crosscut that stuff
> from time to time on my table saw for my neighbors...)
>
> In just about any other case, especially the thicker or softer the wood, a
> full kerf works better for me.
>
> ++ Dave
>
>
I've been told by the folks that sell WW2, that think kerf is better suited
for a TS with less that 3HP.
I've got the regular kerf and I'm planning to by the thin kerf at the next
Woodworkers Show in Sacramento.
"B a r r y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 03 Mar 2004 22:53:45 GMT, "mel" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >I've been using the thin kerf style blades for a couple of years now but
I'm
> >beginning to think I ought to go back to the 1/8" kerfed blades for my TS
> >and MS. Less deflection, longer life, more carbide for resharpening and
a
> >kerf that's easy to account for are just a few reasons. The only
advantage
> >to a thin kerf I can see is less strain on a motor when using a dull
blade.
> >What are your thoughts?
> >
>
>
> What about the wood you save with narrower kerfs?
>
> Barry
"B a r r y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 03 Mar 2004 23:54:10 GMT, "Leon"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >
> >"B a r r y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >
> >> What about the wood you save with narrower kerfs?
> >>
> >> Barry
> >
> >
> >Oh.. No... you really did not ask that.... LOL
> >
>
>
> Trollin', trollin' trollin'... <G>
LOL... You know, years ago,,,15 maybe, they used that as a sales pitch...
Less wasteful... When was the last time you used all of a board...