TH

"Tom H"

02/08/2006 7:20 PM

Water tight deck over a room

I have a 10'x12' deck and want to enclose the lower area for a storage room.
For this to work I need to have the deck surface water tight.
I would replace the old deck board with new.
The only decking I have found that's water tight is aluminum Lockdry (
http://www.lockdry.com/contact.htm ) and it is very expensive.

I'm thinking of using composite decking and cutting a 1/2" spline pocket in
the edge of each board.
Then installing it using pure silicone in each pocket with a 1/4" x 1 1/4"
spline between each board.
Leaving 1/4" of the spline showing between each board.

I would use that galvanized angle iron with elongated holes along each joist
to screw the boards down from underneath.
Placing the screws w/washer in the middle of the elongated hole would allow
the entire deck to expand and contract with the weather.

Any comments or ideas.



This topic has 4 replies

l

in reply to "Tom H" on 02/08/2006 7:20 PM

03/08/2006 11:40 PM

In article <[email protected]>,
Tom H <[email protected]> wrote:
>I have a 10'x12' deck and want to enclose the lower area for a storage room.
>For this to work I need to have the deck surface water tight.
>I would replace the old deck board with new.
>The only decking I have found that's water tight is aluminum Lockdry (
>http://www.lockdry.com/contact.htm ) and it is very expensive.
>
>I'm thinking of using composite decking and cutting a 1/2" spline pocket in
>the edge of each board.
>Then installing it using pure silicone in each pocket with a 1/4" x 1 1/4"
>spline between each board.
>Leaving 1/4" of the spline showing between each board.
>
>I would use that galvanized angle iron with elongated holes along each joist
>to screw the boards down from underneath.
>Placing the screws w/washer in the middle of the elongated hole would allow
>the entire deck to expand and contract with the weather.
>
>Any comments or ideas.
>
>
>

4 sheets of CDX ply, 2 squares of shingles or roll roofing, some
framing lumber and hardware, and you could build a conventional roof
under the existing deck. If you have the clearance I would recommend
this route. If you try your experiment, by all means let us know how
it turns out...
--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]

Lr

"Leon"

in reply to "Tom H" on 02/08/2006 7:20 PM

02/08/2006 7:35 PM


"Tom H" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have a 10'x12' deck and want to enclose the lower area for a storage
>room.
> For this to work I need to have the deck surface water tight.
> I would replace the old deck board with new.
> The only decking I have found that's water tight is aluminum Lockdry (
> http://www.lockdry.com/contact.htm ) and it is very expensive.
>
> I'm thinking of using composite decking and cutting a 1/2" spline pocket
> in the edge of each board.
> Then installing it using pure silicone in each pocket with a 1/4" x 1 1/4"
> spline between each board.
> Leaving 1/4" of the spline showing between each board.
>
> I would use that galvanized angle iron with elongated holes along each
> joist to screw the boards down from underneath.
> Placing the screws w/washer in the middle of the elongated hole would
> allow the entire deck to expand and contract with the weather.
>
> Any comments or ideas.
>
>
>Below the decking use corrugated deck roof material to catch the water and
>channel it away. Basically build a roof under your decking.

HP

"Highland Pairos"

in reply to "Tom H" on 02/08/2006 7:20 PM

03/08/2006 12:05 AM

We use Dry Space when it is called for under our decks. When installed
according to the manufacturers instructions it works great.

Steve P.

"Wood Butcher" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Here's a few more links. I was going to do the same as you
> but haven't managed to get around to it yet.
>
> http://www.dekdrain.com/products.asp
> http://www.dry-b-lo.com/
> http://www.dryspace.cc/
> http://www.backyardamerica.com/smartroof.htm
> http://www.timbertech.com/products/dryspace.aspx
>
> Art
>
> "Tom H" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I have a 10'x12' deck and want to enclose the lower area for a storage
>> room.
>> For this to work I need to have the deck surface water tight.
>> I would replace the old deck board with new.
>> The only decking I have found that's water tight is aluminum Lockdry (
>> http://www.lockdry.com/contact.htm ) and it is very expensive.
>>
>> I'm thinking of using composite decking and cutting a 1/2" spline pocket
>> in
>> the edge of each board.
>> Then installing it using pure silicone in each pocket with a 1/4" x 1
>> 1/4"
>> spline between each board.
>> Leaving 1/4" of the spline showing between each board.
>>
>> I would use that galvanized angle iron with elongated holes along each
>> joist
>> to screw the boards down from underneath.
>> Placing the screws w/washer in the middle of the elongated hole would
>> allow
>> the entire deck to expand and contract with the weather.
>>
>> Any comments or ideas.
>>
>>
>>
>
>

WB

"Wood Butcher"

in reply to "Tom H" on 02/08/2006 7:20 PM

02/08/2006 2:56 PM

Here's a few more links. I was going to do the same as you
but haven't managed to get around to it yet.

http://www.dekdrain.com/products.asp
http://www.dry-b-lo.com/
http://www.dryspace.cc/
http://www.backyardamerica.com/smartroof.htm
http://www.timbertech.com/products/dryspace.aspx

Art

"Tom H" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a 10'x12' deck and want to enclose the lower area for a storage room.
> For this to work I need to have the deck surface water tight.
> I would replace the old deck board with new.
> The only decking I have found that's water tight is aluminum Lockdry (
> http://www.lockdry.com/contact.htm ) and it is very expensive.
>
> I'm thinking of using composite decking and cutting a 1/2" spline pocket in
> the edge of each board.
> Then installing it using pure silicone in each pocket with a 1/4" x 1 1/4"
> spline between each board.
> Leaving 1/4" of the spline showing between each board.
>
> I would use that galvanized angle iron with elongated holes along each joist
> to screw the boards down from underneath.
> Placing the screws w/washer in the middle of the elongated hole would allow
> the entire deck to expand and contract with the weather.
>
> Any comments or ideas.
>
>
>


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