Bay Area Dave's question about using a lock miter joint
on a sloping sides letter tray got me to do some testing
to see if it'd work. A post asking if a lock miter bit
could produce a closed box - for a miter saw station
ironically - was subsequently asked.
Did up some drawings to work out how it might be done
and posted that stuff to a.b.p.w.. This evening I cut
the parts for a test box per the drawings and routed
the lock mitered edges of all the parts.
Did a dry fit and it worked. Problem then was getting
a closed box with all mitered corners apart. Fortunately,
the router bit set up wasn't perfect and I hadn't firmly
pressed one of the parts down completely. A dental tool
and some careful use of it got the box apart. Seems
strong enough, even without glue. With glue it should
hold together really well.
Have posted an image of the test box with edge details
in a.b.p.w. if anyone's interested.
charlie b
Thanks for the blue tape tip. Getting dried squeezed
out glue off is not fun. Getting out of a corner is
less fun. Getting it out of the corner of a very small
box requires dental tools - and valium.
Hadn't though about using the joint for 6 or 8 sided
things. Will it work for odd number of faces "boxes"?
thanks
charlie b
Steve Turner wrote:
> I'm currently punishing my brain trying to figure out how a person could
> use lock miter joints to connect panels of differing sizes so that the
> inner and outer surfaces mate cleanly (for example, 3/4" side panels to
> a 1/2" back). This means the miter angle would no longer be 45 degrees,
> so I doubt that this would be doable with our regular router bits. You
> could build a jig to run the panels through at angles other than 0 and
> 90 degrees, but the "lock" portion of the joint would then be out of
> sync with the miter angle and would probably make it impossible to join
> the panels together.
>
> Probably a job for the table saw, or a different joint altogether.
>
Have posted one way to do what I think you've got in mind to a.b.p.w.
Shouldn't be that hard - IF - the half inch stock is the one cut
flat/horizontally. You just need a piece of 1/4" under the 1/2"
and set the bit height and the fence for the 3/4" stock.
And this one's the last lock miter wild hair idea I'm gonna do!
(unless someone comes up with a really interesting potential
application :) ).
charlie b
On Fri, 30 Jan 2004 20:10:17 GMT, Steve Turner
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I'm currently punishing my brain trying to figure out how a person could
>use lock miter joints to connect panels of differing sizes so that the
>inner and outer surfaces mate cleanly (for example, 3/4" side panels to
>a 1/2" back). This means the miter angle would no longer be 45 degrees,
>so I doubt that this would be doable with our regular router bits. You
>could build a jig to run the panels through at angles other than 0 and
>90 degrees, but the "lock" portion of the joint would then be out of
>sync with the miter angle and would probably make it impossible to join
>the panels together.
>
>Probably a job for the table saw, or a different joint altogether.
it should be doable. you'd use the same bit on both parts, but run
them through at different bevel angles.
Fri, Jan 30, 2004, 12:49am (EST-3) [email protected] (charlie=A0b)
says:
<snip> Problem then was getting a closed box with all mitered corners
apart. <snip>
A bit of Titebond II, and the ultimate gift box, for someone you
don't specially care for. Hehehehe
JOAT
It's what you learn after you know it all that counts.
- Pete Maccarrone
Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
Web Page Update 29 Jan 2004.
Some tunes I like.
http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/SOMETUNESILIKE/
"charlie b" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Bay Area Dave's question about using a lock miter joint
> on a sloping sides letter tray got me to do some testing
> to see if it'd work. A post asking if a lock miter bit
> could produce a closed box - for a miter saw station
> ironically - was subsequently asked.
Thanks for the info Charlie.
Eric
charlie b wrote:
> Thanks for the blue tape tip. Getting dried squeezed
> out glue off is not fun. Getting out of a corner is
> less fun. Getting it out of the corner of a very small
> box requires dental tools - and valium.
Been there, got the T-shirt, etc...
> Hadn't though about using the joint for 6 or 8 sided
> things. Will it work for odd number of faces "boxes"?
Don't know about that, but when I spoke of a "five-sided" box, I meant a
regular box with four sides and a bottom.
I'm currently punishing my brain trying to figure out how a person could
use lock miter joints to connect panels of differing sizes so that the
inner and outer surfaces mate cleanly (for example, 3/4" side panels to
a 1/2" back). This means the miter angle would no longer be 45 degrees,
so I doubt that this would be doable with our regular router bits. You
could build a jig to run the panels through at angles other than 0 and
90 degrees, but the "lock" portion of the joint would then be out of
sync with the miter angle and would probably make it impossible to join
the panels together.
Probably a job for the table saw, or a different joint altogether.
--
To reply, change the chemical designation to its common name.
Particularly if you wrap it up with some good ol fashioned filament tape!
"T." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Fri, Jan 30, 2004, 12:49am (EST-3) [email protected] (charlie b)
says:
<snip> Problem then was getting a closed box with all mitered corners
apart. <snip>
A bit of Titebond II, and the ultimate gift box, for someone you
don't specially care for. Hehehehe
JOAT
It's what you learn after you know it all that counts.
- Pete Maccarrone
Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
Web Page Update 29 Jan 2004.
Some tunes I like.
http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/SOMETUNESILIKE/
In article <[email protected]>, charlie b says...
>
>Bay Area Dave's question about using a lock miter joint
>on a sloping sides letter tray got me to do some testing
>to see if it'd work. A post asking if a lock miter bit
>could produce a closed box - for a miter saw station
>ironically - was subsequently asked.
>
Snip
Seems almost airtight, possibly you could use air pressure to blow it back apart
during dry fitting or even do your final clamp up with a vaccum setup.
Anyway thanks for the post, it was great food for thought. Now I really want a
lock miter bit. :)
David
In article <[email protected]>,
Eric Johnson <[email protected]> wrote:
>Particularly if you wrap it up with some good ol fashioned filament tape!
>
>"T." <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>Fri, Jan 30, 2004, 12:49am (EST-3) [email protected] (charlie b)
>says:
><snip> Problem then was getting a closed box with all mitered corners
>apart. <snip>
>
> A bit of Titebond II, and the ultimate gift box, for someone you
>don't specially care for. Hehehehe
>
>JOAT
>It's what you learn after you know it all that counts.
>- Pete Maccarrone
>
>Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
>Web Page Update 29 Jan 2004.
>Some tunes I like.
>http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/SOMETUNESILIKE/
>
>
And don't forget to put a dead fish inside.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
charlie b wrote:
> Bay Area Dave's question about using a lock miter joint
> on a sloping sides letter tray got me to do some testing
> to see if it'd work. A post asking if a lock miter bit
> could produce a closed box - for a miter saw station
> ironically - was subsequently asked.
>
> Did up some drawings to work out how it might be done
> and posted that stuff to a.b.p.w.. This evening I cut
> the parts for a test box per the drawings and routed
> the lock mitered edges of all the parts.
Pretty cool, eh? I've used lock miters on plywood for several of my
projects, and you may remember me posting pictures of some five-sided
boxes (open on the top end) on a.b.p.w a year or so ago. The one's I've
made are about 1' square, and I use them all over the shop for holding
cutoffs, jigs, etc. My wife and friends have a few, and I've got
friends and family after me to make more. :-)
I've built some drawers using lock-mitered baltic birch panels for the
front, back, and sides, but I've yet to build any with lock-mitered
bottoms. I think that would be very nice (and sturdy!), but you
wouldn't be able to use the bottom-mounted drawer rails that tuck up
under the side panels.
> Did a dry fit and it worked. Problem then was getting
> a closed box with all mitered corners apart.
I should have warned you about that :-)
> ... Seems
> strong enough, even without glue. With glue it should
> hold together really well.
Definitely. If you're doing a closed box like this and you want the
inside to look nice (after you saw it apart, of course) you might
consider using some fairly wide (and carefully placed) blue masking tape
to protect the inner panels from glue squeeze-out.
--
To reply, change the chemical designation to its common name.