I was paying special attention to the part of Norm's show on the bowfront
chest where he laminated the curved fronts of the drawers in the chest
having not done to well in a similar lamination project myself this winter.
Norm said he used a glue which set up more slowly and didn't bleed through
the 1/8" thick pieces of wood that he laminated. Did anyone catch the type
of glue that he used?
TIA.
Dick Snyder
On May 5, 5:06 pm, "Dick Snyder" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> I was paying special attention to the part of Norm's show on the bowfront
> chest where he laminated the curved fronts of the drawers in the chest
> having not done to well in a similar lamination project myself this winter.
> Norm said he used a glue which set up more slowly and didn't bleed through
> the 1/8" thick pieces of wood that he laminated. Did anyone catch the type
> of glue that he used?
>
> TIA.
>
> Dick Snyder
I think he said "cold press"
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=5054
On May 5, 8:54 pm, "Joe" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:4u9%[email protected]...
>
> > Joe wrote:
>
> > > How rough is the cured epoxy on blades? I know that plastic resin
> > is *very*
> > > rough on them.
>
> > I don't have a clue; however; a laminate of knitted glass and epoxy will
> > destroy a 9", 16 grit, abrasive disk in a hurry.
>
> > Just curious, what makes you ask?
>
> > Lew
>
> I always need to clean up the edges of bent laminations, usually by running
> them over the jointer first, and then the opposite edge either through the
> planer or the table saw and was wondering if epoxy would be easier on the
> blades than plastic resin.
I've never had a significant problem w/ carbide blades w/ epoxies nor
resin glues w/ such a technique -- there simply isn't enough of it in
the glue joint to be significant to a carbide blade. HSS is another
question, of course. This also assumes the squeeze out is minimal or
taken care of prior to running over the jointer -- I would run the
side through the saw and cut it down first if that were the case
rather than start w/ the jointer or, as someone else mentioned, I
sanding disc would be an alternative.
The problem w/ epoxy/glass is more the glass fibers than the epoxy
itself, and the glue line in commercial plywood is thicker and harder
than what would get in the suggested application here...
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:4u9%[email protected]...
> Joe wrote:
>
> >
> > How rough is the cured epoxy on blades? I know that plastic resin
> is *very*
> > rough on them.
>
> I don't have a clue; however; a laminate of knitted glass and epoxy will
> destroy a 9", 16 grit, abrasive disk in a hurry.
>
> Just curious, what makes you ask?
>
> Lew
I always need to clean up the edges of bent laminations, usually by running
them over the jointer first, and then the opposite edge either through the
planer or the table saw and was wondering if epoxy would be easier on the
blades than plastic resin.
jc
Dick Snyder wrote:
> I was paying special attention to the part of Norm's show on the
bowfront
> chest where he laminated the curved fronts of the drawers in the chest
> having not done to well in a similar lamination project myself this
winter.
> Norm said he used a glue which set up more slowly and didn't bleed
through
> the 1/8" thick pieces of wood that he laminated. Did anyone catch
the type
> of glue that he used?
They ran a different program here but to comment on your question.
When you find something better than epoxy with a slow hardener for
laminating, let me know.
It doesn't creep, is waterproof and has at least 30 minute open time,
unless you are working in direct sun light like I do most of the time.
The down side is that you wear protective gloves.
Lew
Joe wrote:
> I always need to clean up the edges of bent laminations, usually by
running
> them over the jointer first, and then the opposite edge either
through the
> planer or the table saw and was wondering if epoxy would be easier
on the
> blades than plastic resin.
Sounds like it might be a candidate for a 12" disk sander.
Lew
The glue he used he called a cold press glue. The advantages he quoted were
its longer open time and that it wouldn't bleed through the top veneer. I
found it odd that he never made mention of the tendency of different glues
to 'creep' after cured in bent laminations. I'd always read to use plastic
resin glue becuase it didn't creep at all after curing. Who knows, maybe
the cold press glue he referred to is actually plastic resin????
Joe
"Dick Snyder" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I was paying special attention to the part of Norm's show on the bowfront
>chest where he laminated the curved fronts of the drawers in the chest
>having not done to well in a similar lamination project myself this winter.
>Norm said he used a glue which set up more slowly and didn't bleed through
>the 1/8" thick pieces of wood that he laminated. Did anyone catch the type
>of glue that he used?
>
> TIA.
>
> Dick Snyder
>
"Dick Snyder" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Thanks for the quick replies. Cold Press sounds right based on my
> memory of the bits of a word I heard him say.
>
> "Dick Snyder" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>I was paying special attention to the part of Norm's show on the
>>bowfront chest where he laminated the curved fronts of the drawers in
>>the chest having not done to well in a similar lamination project
>>myself this winter. Norm said he used a glue which set up more slowly
>>and didn't bleed through the 1/8" thick pieces of wood that he
>>laminated. Did anyone catch the type of glue that he used?
>>
>> TIA.
>>
>> Dick Snyder
>>
>
>
>
Well, Franklin (Titebond) seems to be a sponsor of his show. And Franklin
sells a Cold Press Veneering glue. At least they did a couple of years
ago.
http://www.titebond.com/ProductLineTB.asp?prodline=19&prodcat=3
That turned out to be a good looking project, didn't it? Maybe just a bit
beyond what could be easily shown in a 22 minute show, but nice. And the
finishing stage on the mahogany didn't screw it up too badly, even with the
filler stuff spooned on...
Patriarch
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:HT8%[email protected]...
> When you find something better than epoxy with a slow hardener for
> laminating, let me know.
>
> It doesn't creep, is waterproof and has at least 30 minute open time,
> unless you are working in direct sun light like I do most of the time.
>
> The down side is that you wear protective gloves.
>
> Lew
>
Lew,
How rough is the cured epoxy on blades? I know that plastic resin is *very*
rough on them.
jc
>
Thanks for the quick replies. Cold Press sounds right based on my memory of
the bits of a word I heard him say.
"Dick Snyder" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I was paying special attention to the part of Norm's show on the bowfront
>chest where he laminated the curved fronts of the drawers in the chest
>having not done to well in a similar lamination project myself this winter.
>Norm said he used a glue which set up more slowly and didn't bleed through
>the 1/8" thick pieces of wood that he laminated. Did anyone catch the type
>of glue that he used?
>
> TIA.
>
> Dick Snyder
>