Nice group of pics. . .I wish I had a digital camera to have done it up =
properly.
--=20
SwampBug
- - - - - - - - - - - -
"Lawrence L'Hote" <[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:h3iBd.594968$wV.532925@attbi_s54...
"SwampBug" <[email protected]> wrote in message=20
news:[email protected]...
I posted pics with a simple look at the Freud SD208 Dado Set compared to =
the=20
$19 set from Harbor Freight.
see ABPW. I wish I could have done better.
I did some dado studies also. I've posted this link here before. For =
those=20
interested:
http://home.mchsi.com/~larrylhote/dadocomp/dadocomp.htm
Larry
I believe I understand what you are getting at and I can say that =
chipping, flaking or tear-out, whatever one chooses to refer to the face =
at the dado edge(forgive me for not mentioning that, *Freud*ian slip I =
suppose. . .no pun intended) is way better with the Freud, even on the =
plywood. The oak sample was clean but even on the whitewood the HF =
messed the edge a bit. The Freud edge looked like it was moulded rather =
than sawn. I need to borrow a digital camera and redo this test. . .you =
guys are tough! <s>
--=20
SwampBug
- - - - - - - - - - - -
"Unisaw A100" <[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:[email protected]...
While the depth and groove bottom is something of some
significance what did the face of the pieces cut look like
'tween the two?
UA100
I agree, a "score" or two in the bottom may not be a problem if =
esthetics is the only factor. However a *rough* bottom may not be =
comprised of just "scores". They cold just as easily be elevated =
artifacts in which case 'how deep it the dado' could become a factor, =
rare perhaps but nevertheless. Plus if there is glue, a rough surface is =
not necessarily a good glue surface.
I have seen such test involving Dado Kings and for the money 'deys ain't =
nuff difrunce'!
--=20
SwampBug
- - - - - - - - - - - -
"Ba r r y" <[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:[email protected]...
On Sat, 01 Jan 2005 06:59:24 -0600, Unisaw A100 <[email protected]>
wrote:
>While the depth and groove bottom is something of some
>significance what did the face of the pieces cut look like
>'tween the two?
This is what I always wonder when I read about dado cut quality!
I can care less if there's a score or two in the bottom, I really care
about the parts that show. In my experience, the really good dados
don't chip out the sides of cut, even on woods prone to chipping.
My Freud 208 chipped edges when new and after resharpening by a top
notch sharpening shop. The Dado King and the Ridge I've used left a
much cleaner edge. My understanding is that this is due to the
combination of the sharp, pointed edges on the outsides of the outside
plate's teeth, and the tooth angle when addressing the stock.
If I need a perfectly flat bottom in solid stock, because the dado end
will show, a swipe or two of a shoulder plane will make it so, or I'll
rout it. I've never had a reason for the end of a plywood dado to
show, as it'll be edge banded or covered with another board, so I
don't worry about it. I also don't see a problem if a tenon has a few
scores in it, as long as the shoulder edge is crisp and clean.
Barry
Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
> "max" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:BDFC87AB.3DFD6%[email protected]...
> > What did they conclude?
> > max
> >
> >> The current issue of Woodcraft Magazine performed a similar
side-by-side
> >> comparison of 3 dado sets: the Forrest Dado King, the Amana
658040, and
> >> the
> >> DeWalt DW7670.
> >>
> >> Lee
>
> I conclude they did a rather skimpy sampling. Woodcraft carries 7
brands on
> their web page but they did not test them? I guess you cold give
them a
> test and comparison but it would be unfair to call anyone of them the
best
> or worst when so many more are available.
Actually, since the article was a new-tool review, those three sets
were chosen because they were the newest three out there.
A.J.
Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
> I conclude they did a rather skimpy sampling. Woodcraft carries 7 brands
> on
> their web page but they did not test them? I guess you cold give them a
> test and comparison but it would be unfair to call anyone of them the best
> or worst when so many more are available.
Oh, come on now, that $250 flootchie from Forest just *has* to be the best
because it costs more than the GDP of Honduras.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/
"max" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:BDFC87AB.3DFD6%[email protected]...
> What did they conclude?
> max
>
>> The current issue of Woodcraft Magazine performed a similar side-by-side
>> comparison of 3 dado sets: the Forrest Dado King, the Amana 658040, and
>> the
>> DeWalt DW7670.
>>
>> Lee
I conclude they did a rather skimpy sampling. Woodcraft carries 7 brands on
their web page but they did not test them? I guess you cold give them a
test and comparison but it would be unfair to call anyone of them the best
or worst when so many more are available.
<<What did they conclude?>>
They didn't pick a winner, if that's what you are asking. They did conclude
that because both the Forrest and DeWalt sets use four-toothed chipper
blades, the dadoes they produced had cleaner, smoother bottoms. The also
had pictures of dadoes from each set made side by side in a couple of
different wood species.
Lee
--
To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"
On Sat, 01 Jan 2005 06:59:24 -0600, Unisaw A100 <[email protected]>
wrote:
>While the depth and groove bottom is something of some
>significance what did the face of the pieces cut look like
>'tween the two?
This is what I always wonder when I read about dado cut quality!
I can care less if there's a score or two in the bottom, I really care
about the parts that show. In my experience, the really good dados
don't chip out the sides of cut, even on woods prone to chipping.
My Freud 208 chipped edges when new and after resharpening by a top
notch sharpening shop. The Dado King and the Ridge I've used left a
much cleaner edge. My understanding is that this is due to the
combination of the sharp, pointed edges on the outsides of the outside
plate's teeth, and the tooth angle when addressing the stock.
If I need a perfectly flat bottom in solid stock, because the dado end
will show, a swipe or two of a shoulder plane will make it so, or I'll
rout it. I've never had a reason for the end of a plywood dado to
show, as it'll be edge banded or covered with another board, so I
don't worry about it. I also don't see a problem if a tenon has a few
scores in it, as long as the shoulder edge is crisp and clean.
Barry
On Sun, 02 Jan 2005 01:27:48 -0500, Silvan
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Oh, come on now, that $250 flootchie from Forest just *has* to be the best
>because it costs more than the GDP of Honduras.
Hey, mine was $150! <G>
Barry
"SwampBug" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
I posted pics with a simple look at the Freud SD208 Dado Set compared to the
$19 set from Harbor Freight.
see ABPW. I wish I could have done better.
I did some dado studies also. I've posted this link here before. For those
interested:
http://home.mchsi.com/~larrylhote/dadocomp/dadocomp.htm
Larry