For years I used a pair of Vise Grips to hold the blade while I took the arbor nut
off. I suspect some of you did and some still do that. Then I became brilliant! I
ordered and used that orange Blade Lok thingie. That is a POS and a waste of money
IMO. It has no inside detail to hold the teeth. Apparently I must push against the
top of it for it to be effective. That did not work for me ahtall. The blade just
kept slipping inside that thing. That was the end of my brilliant relapse. Since I
suspect most of you have changed a few TS blades in your time and are using a much
better approach, I ask for your effective and safe suggestions on this matter.
Hoyt W.
On Tue, 25 May 2004 12:22:32 -0500, Hoyt Weathers <[email protected]>
wrote:
>For years I used a pair of Vise Grips to hold the blade while I took the arbor nut
>off. I suspect some of you did and some still do that. Then I became brilliant! I
>ordered and used that orange Blade Lok thingie. That is a POS and a waste of money
>IMO. It has no inside detail to hold the teeth. Apparently I must push against the
>top of it for it to be effective. That did not work for me ahtall. The blade just
>kept slipping inside that thing. That was the end of my brilliant relapse. Since I
>suspect most of you have changed a few TS blades in your time and are using a much
>better approach, I ask for your effective and safe suggestions on this matter.
>
>Hoyt W.
a flat stick of wood, usually a cutoff from same saw.
Hmmmm, as I have the two wrench option I hadn't thought about it but.....
Seems that 2 1/4 inch holes drilled near the edge and exactly opposite each
other would allow for a 3 inch or so bolt or rod to secure the blade against
the table for tightening or loosening the blade ? I usually just jamb a 1x
under the RAS blade rather than using the second wrench.
--
Chipper Wood
useours, yours won't work
"Hoyt Weathers" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> For years I used a pair of Vise Grips to hold the blade while I took the
arbor nut
> off. I suspect some of you did and some still do that. Then I became
brilliant! I
> ordered and used that orange Blade Lok thingie. That is a POS and a waste
of money
> IMO. It has no inside detail to hold the teeth. Apparently I must push
against the
> top of it for it to be effective. That did not work for me ahtall. The
blade just
> kept slipping inside that thing. That was the end of my brilliant relapse.
Since I
> suspect most of you have changed a few TS blades in your time and are
using a much
> better approach, I ask for your effective and safe suggestions on this
matter.
>
> Hoyt W.
>
Hoyt W. wrote:>For years I used a pair of Vise Grips to hold the blade while I
took the
>arbor nut
>off. I suspect some of you did and some still do that. Then I became
>brilliant! I
>ordered and used that orange Blade Lok thingie. That is a POS and a waste of
>money
>IMO. It has no inside detail to hold the teeth. Apparently I must push
>against the
>top of it for it to be effective. That did not work for me ahtall. The blade
>just
>kept slipping inside that thing. That was the end of my brilliant relapse.
>Since I
>suspect most of you have changed a few TS blades in your time and are using a
>much
>better approach, I ask for your effective and safe suggestions on this
>matter.
>
>Hoyt W.
>
>
A hunk of scrap softwood laid perpendicular to the blade. Although your really
expensive blades might deserve an arbor wrench. Tom
Someday, it'll all be over....
"Hoyt Weathers" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> off. I suspect some of you did and some still do that. Then I became
brilliant! I
> ordered and used that orange Blade Lok thingie. That is a POS and a waste
of money
A'yup. Got one of those as a present. I use it, but you nailed it, in that
you have to push down hard on it to grab the blade. After a coupl'a tries, I
mastered the damned thing and now actually prefer it to the
chunk-o-wood-crammed-into-the-opening approach.
In article <5JLsc.12752$Sx2.1219@okepread01>, [email protected]
says...
>
> "Wood Butcher" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:NqLsc.114513$xw3.6743215@attbi_s04...
>
> >>>a pine 1x2 as a lever between the blade teeth and the frame to keep
> things immobile.<<<
>
> And all these years I had thought this was my original idea. What a bummer!
> RM~ :-(
>
Can't be. It was mine :-).
--
Where ARE those Iraqi WMDs?
My old Sears saw I used a 1x2 piece of pine to hold the blade n wrenched the
nut off....my new Unisaw has 2- wrenches....better....
"Unisaw A100" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I use both wrenches.
>
> UA100
On Tue, 25 May 2004 12:22:32 -0500, Hoyt Weathers <[email protected]>
wrote:
>For years I used a pair of Vise Grips to hold the blade while I took the arbor nut
>off. I suspect some of you did and some still do that. Then I became brilliant! I
>ordered and used that orange Blade Lok thingie. That is a POS and a waste of money
>IMO. It has no inside detail to hold the teeth. Apparently I must push against the
>top of it for it to be effective. That did not work for me ahtall. The blade just
>kept slipping inside that thing. That was the end of my brilliant relapse. Since I
>suspect most of you have changed a few TS blades in your time and are using a much
>better approach, I ask for your effective and safe suggestions on this matter.
>
>Hoyt W.
I use an old leather glove and wrap it over the blade to hold it. The
old Powermatics don't have flats on the arbor for a wrench. I drop
the wrench in the glove, roll it up and store it in the Biesmeyer
front rail when I'm done with it. Always know where it is.
--
John, in Minnesota
If you need anything more than a scrap stick to break it loose, then you are
over tightening the arbor nut. I usually use a stick under a tooth, which
is usually in the form of my zero clearance insert. What could be handier,
since you just pulled it from the table. To tighten I use nothing more than
my hand and one wrench.
--
********
Bill Pounds
http://www.billpounds.com
"Hoyt Weathers" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> For years I used a pair of Vise Grips to hold the blade while I took the
arbor nut
> off. I suspect some of you did and some still do that. Then I became
brilliant! I
> ordered and used that orange Blade Lok thingie. That is a POS and a waste
of money
> IMO. It has no inside detail to hold the teeth. Apparently I must push
against the
> top of it for it to be effective. That did not work for me ahtall. The
blade just
> kept slipping inside that thing. That was the end of my brilliant relapse.
Since I
> suspect most of you have changed a few TS blades in your time and are
using a much
> better approach, I ask for your effective and safe suggestions on this
matter.
>
> Hoyt W.
>
"Wood Butcher" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:NqLsc.114513$xw3.6743215@attbi_s04...
>>>a pine 1x2 as a lever between the blade teeth and the frame to keep
things immobile.<<<
And all these years I had thought this was my original idea. What a bummer!
RM~ :-(
I so the same even though I have flats for two wrench use.
"Pounds on Wood" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> If you need anything more than a scrap stick to break it loose, then you
are
> over tightening the arbor nut. I usually use a stick under a tooth, which
> is usually in the form of my zero clearance insert. What could be
handier,
> since you just pulled it from the table. To tighten I use nothing more
than
> my hand and one wrench.
>
> --
> ********
> Bill Pounds
> http://www.billpounds.com
>
I got my extra wrench from Jet for about $5.
"cjrost" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I went to home depot with my arbor nut (no pun intended) in tow.
> Bought a shiney new box/open end combination wrench to use on the arbor
nut.
> I use the factory wrench to hold the arbor from turning. Arbor nuts are
> kinda large, so dont be surprised if the one wrench is kinda expensive;
but
> it sure beats anything else Ive tried.
>
If I can't just hold it with my hand, I use a block of wood jammed
between the teeth and the table.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
Two wrenches came with my Craftsman. One for the flat spot on the arbor,
the other for the nut. I use both. Works good. I've used your method too.
Joe
--
A hobbyist / carpenter with an emphasis on small projects.
"Hoyt Weathers" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> For years I used a pair of Vise Grips to hold the blade while I took the
arbor nut
> off. I suspect some of you did and some still do that. Then I became
brilliant! I
> ordered and used that orange Blade Lok thingie. That is a POS and a waste
of money
> IMO. It has no inside detail to hold the teeth. Apparently I must push
against the
> top of it for it to be effective. That did not work for me ahtall. The
blade just
> kept slipping inside that thing. That was the end of my brilliant relapse.
Since I
> suspect most of you have changed a few TS blades in your time and are
using a much
> better approach, I ask for your effective and safe suggestions on this
matter.
>
> Hoyt W.
>
"Vic Baron" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I just slide a 3/16" dowel perpendicular to the blade. Fits nicely in a
> gullet.
I've always use a screwdriver passed through one of the gullets like you do.
It's a combination blade so the gullets are pretty big. Haven't looked at a
cut off blade close enough to see if a screwdriver might fit there too.
My unisaw uses 2 wrenches to tighten/loosen the blade so this is not an issue
for it. This is also a non-answer to your question, but fits perfectly with most
of the posts here lately.
The old crapsman TS uses only 1 wrench and I just used a pine 1x2 as a lever
between the blade teeth and the frame to keep things immobile. I hope this helps
you some.
Art
"Hoyt Weathers" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> For years I used a pair of Vise Grips to hold the blade while I took the arbor nut
> off. I suspect some of you did and some still do that. Then I became brilliant! I
> ordered and used that orange Blade Lok thingie. That is a POS and a waste of money
> IMO. It has no inside detail to hold the teeth. Apparently I must push against the
> top of it for it to be effective. That did not work for me ahtall. The blade just
> kept slipping inside that thing. That was the end of my brilliant relapse. Since I
> suspect most of you have changed a few TS blades in your time and are using a much
> better approach, I ask for your effective and safe suggestions on this matter.
>
> Hoyt W.
>
I went to home depot with my arbor nut (no pun intended) in tow.
Bought a shiney new box/open end combination wrench to use on the arbor nut.
I use the factory wrench to hold the arbor from turning. Arbor nuts are
kinda large, so dont be surprised if the one wrench is kinda expensive; but
it sure beats anything else Ive tried.
I just slide a 3/16" dowel perpendicular to the blade. Fits nicely in a
gullet.
vb
"Hoyt Weathers" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> For years I used a pair of Vise Grips to hold the blade while I took the
arbor nut
> off. I suspect some of you did and some still do that. Then I became
brilliant! I
> ordered and used that orange Blade Lok thingie. That is a POS and a waste
of money
> IMO. It has no inside detail to hold the teeth. Apparently I must push
against the
> top of it for it to be effective. That did not work for me ahtall. The
blade just
> kept slipping inside that thing. That was the end of my brilliant relapse.
Since I
> suspect most of you have changed a few TS blades in your time and are
using a much
> better approach, I ask for your effective and safe suggestions on this
matter.
>
> Hoyt W.
>
I just use a chunk of scrap wood to hold the blade. I don't tighten it
very tight - just snug it up, but haven't had any problem at all with
the nut coming loose.
I have a big boxend wrench that I found someplace that just happens to
fit the nut and I keep the wrench on some pegboard I attached to the
sides of the table saw along with push sticks, 45/90 degree angle, and
other odds and ends.
On Tue, 25 May 2004 12:22:32 -0500, Hoyt Weathers <[email protected]>
wrote:
>For years I used a pair of Vise Grips to hold the blade while I took the arbor nut
>off. I suspect some of you did and some still do that. Then I became brilliant! I
>ordered and used that orange Blade Lok thingie. That is a POS and a waste of money
>IMO. It has no inside detail to hold the teeth. Apparently I must push against the
>top of it for it to be effective. That did not work for me ahtall. The blade just
>kept slipping inside that thing. That was the end of my brilliant relapse. Since I
>suspect most of you have changed a few TS blades in your time and are using a much
>better approach, I ask for your effective and safe suggestions on this matter.
>
>Hoyt W.
On Tue, 25 May 2004 12:22:32 -0500, Hoyt Weathers <[email protected]>
wrote:
> Since I
>suspect most of you have changed a few TS blades in your time and are using a much
>better approach, I ask for your effective and safe suggestions on this matter.
My old saw didn't have a flat on the arbor for a wrench, so I used a
Quick Grip clamp, with the rubber pads on the flat of the blade. When
the nut was tight, the grip slipped. It worked well.
My current saw has flats on the arbor, so I use two wrenches.
Barry