I've got my heart set on a used radial arm saw. I know they have sort
of gone out of fashion but I still want one. The problem is, I don't
have a lot of money to spend on one. There are lots of Sears
Craftsman around for between 100 and 250 dollars, but I'm having my
doubts I will be happy with that. I was in Sears the other day and
looked at a brand new one, I put my hand on the handle and it seemed
to me that there was a lot of play and not just in one direction
either. Can this play we adjusted out when I get it home? Are the
older saws any better? What would you recommend? Thanks in advance
for anyones comments.
While I really am not fond of the newer Sears stuff .. don't assume
that the one you touch & feel in the store was correctly assembled
and/or aligned. Even if it was properly assembled, hundreds of
people wander by & give everything on the saw a tug or a push .. ..
don't condemn it for that reason alone.
That said, look for a good clean used saw .. I just helped a friend
sell one of the last models Emerson made for Sears .. it was brand new
and it went for $400 with a bunch of accessories & extras.
On 22 Apr 2004 19:29:45 -0700, [email protected] (Bob) wrote:
>I've got my heart set on a used radial arm saw. I know they have sort
>of gone out of fashion but I still want one. The problem is, I don't
>have a lot of money to spend on one. There are lots of Sears
>Craftsman around for between 100 and 250 dollars, but I'm having my
>doubts I will be happy with that. I was in Sears the other day and
>looked at a brand new one, I put my hand on the handle and it seemed
>to me that there was a lot of play and not just in one direction
>either. Can this play we adjusted out when I get it home? Are the
>older saws any better? What would you recommend? Thanks in advance
>for anyones comments.
Agki Strodon wrote:
>>
> I can't find the book through either of the big book Borgs used book search
> engines. It IS available in PDF from the following URL:
>
> http://www.wired-2-shop.com/joneakes/ProductDetail.asp?ProdID=3
This link will give you an idea of general adjustments:
http://owwm.stangii.com/Manuals/Radial_Arm_Saw_Owners_Manual_113.29410.pdf
I forget where I pirated this from.
--
Mark
N.E. Ohio
Never argue with a fool, a bystander can't tell you apart. (S. Clemens, A.K.A.
Mark Twain)
When in doubt hit the throttle. It may not help but it sure ends the suspense.
(Gaz, r.moto)
On 22 Apr 2004 19:29:45 -0700, [email protected] (Bob) wrote:
>I've got my heart set on a used radial arm saw. I know they have sort
>of gone out of fashion but I still want one. The problem is, I don't
>have a lot of money to spend on one. There are lots of Sears
>Craftsman around for between 100 and 250 dollars, but I'm having my
>doubts I will be happy with that. I was in Sears the other day and
>looked at a brand new one, I put my hand on the handle and it seemed
>to me that there was a lot of play and not just in one direction
>either. Can this play we adjusted out when I get it home? Are the
>older saws any better? What would you recommend? Thanks in advance
>for anyones comments.
=================
As others have said DO NOT assume that any FLOOR (display) model
machine has been assembled correctly.
Having said that a used Dewalt would be what I would look for....
I purchased a Sears RAS in the early 60's (so old it is not covered by
their recall) that holds its settings pretty well....and I have
absolutely no plans to replace it .... I will admit that the last
miter cut I used if for was at least 25 years ago ..
Bob Griffiths
.
>
> There is an out-of-print book entitled "Fine Tuning Your Radial Arm Saw"
by
> John Eakes that you should try to get if you are thinking about going with
> one.
I can't find the book through either of the big book Borgs used book search
engines. It IS available in PDF from the following URL:
http://www.wired-2-shop.com/joneakes/ProductDetail.asp?ProdID=3
It's $14.95 and you download the book and then print it our. No paper
copies.
Agkistrodon
I found that book at my local library. Try yours.
It is a good book. See http://www.joneakes.com Possibly the author knows
where to get the book?
"Agki Strodon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> >
> > There is an out-of-print book entitled "Fine Tuning Your Radial Arm Saw"
> by
> > John Eakes that you should try to get if you are thinking about going
with
> > one.
>
> I can't find the book through either of the big book Borgs used book
search
> engines. It IS available in PDF from the following URL:
>
> http://www.wired-2-shop.com/joneakes/ProductDetail.asp?ProdID=3
>
> It's $14.95 and you download the book and then print it our. No paper
> copies.
>
>
> Agkistrodon
>
>
> I don't think any RAS has very good indexing stops. An old Craftsman with
> cast iron arm and ways does me very well. I check it with a square, lock
it
> at 90 degrees and leave it there. Miters are done with either a fixed
angle
> auxiliary fence for right/left 45s or a movable arm fence which is set as
> required. Only use the RAS for cut off, occasionally for drum sanding and
> router bit on auxiliary drive.
>
All depends on the make of the saw. The old DeWalts are superb saws. The
arm can be moved all day long for bevels and still come back exactly at 90
degs. They rip safely and make great shapers and moulders.
Many a fine DeWalt goes for under $500 on Ebay.
Join us: Radial Arm Saw Forum:
http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
--
Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
"Walt Conner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Walt Conner
>
> > I've got my heart set on a used radial arm saw.
>
> >The problem is, I don't have a lot of money to spend on one.
>
>
Bob wrote:
> I've got my heart set on a used radial arm saw. I know they have sort
> of gone out of fashion but I still want one. The problem is, I don't
> have a lot of money to spend on one. There are lots of Sears
> Craftsman around for between 100 and 250 dollars, but I'm having my
> doubts I will be happy with that. I was in Sears the other day and
> looked at a brand new one, I put my hand on the handle and it seemed
> to me that there was a lot of play and not just in one direction
> either. Can this play we adjusted out when I get it home? Are the
> older saws any better? What would you recommend? Thanks in advance
> for anyones comments.
There is an out-of-print book entitled "Fine Tuning Your Radial Arm Saw" by
John Eakes that you should try to get if you are thinking about going with
one.
It provides a reliable procedure for alignment and describes the full set of
adjustments on several brands of radial saw including Craftsman--they all
pretty much have the same adjustments.
The play you describe is very likely a matter of adjustment, and may also be
the result of your unfamiliarity with the tool--there are five separate
motions possible and each of them has an alignment adjustment, a friction
adjustment, and several have pin-locks at 0, 45, and 90 degrees and
friction-lock as well. If you've missed one of the locks that can make
things seem excessively sloppy.
A saw set up in a store shouldn't be taken as representative--it has
probably not been tuned (it's quite possible that nobody at the store even
knows _how_ to tune it) and further it's very likely that customers have
been messing with it.
FWIW, my 20-year-old Craftsman when the pin-locks are engaged and the
friction-locks set has no play beyond that resulting from flexing of the
metal in any axis.
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
[email protected] (Bob) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I've got my heart set on a used radial arm saw. I know they have sort
> of gone out of fashion but I still want one. The problem is, I don't
> have a lot of money to spend on one. There are lots of Sears
> Craftsman around for between 100 and 250 dollars, but I'm having my
> doubts I will be happy with that. I was in Sears the other day and
> looked at a brand new one, I put my hand on the handle and it seemed
> to me that there was a lot of play and not just in one direction
> either. Can this play we adjusted out when I get it home? Are the
> older saws any better? What would you recommend? Thanks in advance
> for anyones comments.
You might consider auctions. Last year I missed a Delta Rockwell RAS
at an estate sale. It was in good shape with a stand. It went for
$50. Last week I bought a Multiplex RAS, a industrial model, 120
Volt, all cast iron, on a heavy stand missing the lower part of the
blade guard and the plywood table and metal table brackets for $2.00.
Fiqured I could afford to lavish some money on it for that price.
I've used radial arm saws for crosscutting and love them. In my
opinion they're much better than a sliding compound miter saw in a
woodworking shop. I wish I had the space to keep one. Look for a used
Rockwell/Delta or Dewalt. Either brand builds/built excellent RASs. If
it were my money I'd look for a Rockwell/Delta with pivot point midway
on the arm and an elevation crank at the front of the table for ease
in raising or lowering the arm. Check Ebay, Penny Saver, local paper,
local used machinery dealers, etc.
I'd stay away from the newer Craftsman RASs as well as those made by
Ryobi, and Rigid. Perhaps those made a while back, say 70s or 60s
might be good.
Layne
On 22 Apr 2004 19:29:45 -0700, [email protected] (Bob) wrote:
>I've got my heart set on a used radial arm saw. I know they have sort
>of gone out of fashion but I still want one. The problem is, I don't
>have a lot of money to spend on one. There are lots of Sears
>Craftsman around for between 100 and 250 dollars, but I'm having my
>doubts I will be happy with that. I was in Sears the other day and
>looked at a brand new one, I put my hand on the handle and it seemed
>to me that there was a lot of play and not just in one direction
>either. Can this play we adjusted out when I get it home? Are the
>older saws any better? What would you recommend? Thanks in advance
>for anyones comments.
"Agki Strodon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> There is an out-of-print book entitled "Fine Tuning Your Radial Arm Saw"
>by
>> John Eakes that you should try to get if you are thinking about going with
>> one.
>
>I can't find the book through either of the big book Borgs used book search
>engines. It IS available in PDF from the following URL:
>
>http://www.wired-2-shop.com/joneakes/ProductDetail.asp?ProdID=3
>
>It's $14.95 and you download the book and then print it our. No paper
>copies.
>
>
>Agkistrodon
>
Definitely out of print. The original publisher was none other than
Lee Valley. I bought one of their last half dozen a couple years ago.
Lent it to my brother and have yet to get it back, so I've also
purchased the .pdf version. I notice that LV has been reprinting many
old books, maybe we can lean on Rob Lee to bring back this one also.
I don't think any RAS has very good indexing stops. An old Craftsman with
cast iron arm and ways does me very well. I check it with a square, lock it
at 90 degrees and leave it there. Miters are done with either a fixed angle
auxiliary fence for right/left 45s or a movable arm fence which is set as
required. Only use the RAS for cut off, occasionally for drum sanding and
router bit on auxiliary drive.
Walt Conner
> I've got my heart set on a used radial arm saw.
>The problem is, I don't have a lot of money to spend on one.