Shop Walls/Ceiling

On Wed, 05 May 2004 14:43:18 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>
>"Al" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> - Seems like quite a few shops have untaped drywall walls - is this to
>> preserve the possibility of pulling and replacing a panel for making
>> electrical changes, etc. behind the drywall?
>
>
>No, it is because I'm too lazy to finish it. Just could not see the added
>benefit in my (garage) shop, but I did paint it.
>
>=============================================
What drywall.... ? My shop (detached building) has been finished for
well over 10 years and I just never got past the insulation... TO ME
IT IS FINISHED !

Bob Griffiths

On Wed, 05 May 2004 18:21:13 GMT, JAW <[email protected]> wrote:

>OK, has aonyone tried using T11 wood paneling and screwing it in place ?
>No finishing, removable if you need to get behind it and it looks good
>in a wood workshop.
>

Didn't use T11, but did use 1/4" vinyl-coated hardboard for exactly the
reason you cite above. Look under the "Shop Pictures" link on my web
page: <www.mklange.cnc.net>

>
>Darin wrote:
>> Al wrote:
>>
>>> - Seems like quite a few shops have untaped drywall walls - is this to
>>> preserve the possibility of pulling and replacing a panel for making
>>> electrical changes, etc. behind the drywall?
>>
>>
>> For what it's worth, I'm reaching that point in my shop. I plan to put
>> up drywall, tape, mud and paint -- but then run all the wiring and
>> plumbing on -top- of the drywall for this very reason. I don't want to
>> have to muck around behind the wall and deal with insulation and studs
>> just to make a few simple wiring changes (or to fix a plumbing leak).
>> For safety, all the wiring will be run in a suitable channel or raceway.
>>
>> Darin

In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> OK, has aonyone tried using T11 wood paneling and screwing it in place ?
> No finishing, removable if you need to get behind it and it looks good
> in a wood workshop.
>
>
> Darin wrote:
> > Al wrote:
> >
> >> - Seems like quite a few shops have untaped drywall walls - is this to
> >> preserve the possibility of pulling and replacing a panel for making
> >> electrical changes, etc. behind the drywall?
> >
> >
> > For what it's worth, I'm reaching that point in my shop. I plan to put
> > up drywall, tape, mud and paint -- but then run all the wiring and
> > plumbing on -top- of the drywall for this very reason. I don't want to
> > have to muck around behind the wall and deal with insulation and studs
> > just to make a few simple wiring changes (or to fix a plumbing leak).
> > For safety, all the wiring will be run in a suitable channel or raceway.
> >
> > Darin
>

Where can I find out more about T11 wood paneling? My initial google
attempts don't seem to be yielding much.

Thanks,
Al

In article <[email protected]>, gm9
@earthlink.netxx says...
> Here is a picture of my soon to be woodworking shop. I used t111 (actually
> more like t 1" 5"). with metal ceiling. Sorry about the attachments, but
> they are small).
>
>
>
> "Pounds on Wood" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I'm not certain of the correct name, but I'm certain I got it wrong. It
> > also comes with the grooves on 8"ctrs and on 4" ctrs and the name implies
> > that feature, as well as different thicknesses. I used the 5/8" stuff.
> > Just visit your local borg and ask for exterior siding in sheets. They
> all
> > carry it.
> >
> > --
> > ********
> > Bill Pounds
> > http://www.billpounds.com
> >
> >
> > "Al" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:MPG.1b0578a25ea19d959897a3@mayonews...
> > > In article <[email protected]>,
> > > [email protected] says...
> > > > OK, has aonyone tried using T11 wood paneling and screwing it in place
> ?
> > > > No finishing, removable if you need to get behind it and it looks good
> > > > in a wood workshop.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Darin wrote:
> > > > > Al wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >> - Seems like quite a few shops have untaped drywall walls - is this
> > to
> > > > >> preserve the possibility of pulling and replacing a panel for
> making
> > > > >> electrical changes, etc. behind the drywall?
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > For what it's worth, I'm reaching that point in my shop. I plan to
> put
> > > > > up drywall, tape, mud and paint -- but then run all the wiring and
> > > > > plumbing on -top- of the drywall for this very reason. I don't want
> to
> > > > > have to muck around behind the wall and deal with insulation and
> studs
> > > > > just to make a few simple wiring changes (or to fix a plumbing
> leak).
> > > > > For safety, all the wiring will be run in a suitable channel or
> > raceway.
> > > > >
> > > > > Darin
> > > >
> > >
> > > Where can I find out more about T11 wood paneling? My initial google
> > > attempts don't seem to be yielding much.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Al


Thanks - your shop looks to be a Rolls Royce in my book!

- Al

Al wrote:
> - Seems like quite a few shops have untaped drywall walls - is this to
> preserve the possibility of pulling and replacing a panel for making
> electrical changes, etc. behind the drywall?

For what it's worth, I'm reaching that point in my shop. I plan to put
up drywall, tape, mud and paint -- but then run all the wiring and
plumbing on -top- of the drywall for this very reason. I don't want to
have to muck around behind the wall and deal with insulation and studs
just to make a few simple wiring changes (or to fix a plumbing leak).
For safety, all the wiring will be run in a suitable channel or raceway.

Darin

"Al" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> - Seems like quite a few shops have untaped drywall walls - is this to
> preserve the possibility of pulling and replacing a panel for making
> electrical changes, etc. behind the drywall?


No, it is because I'm too lazy to finish it. Just could not see the added
benefit in my (garage) shop, but I did paint it.


>
> - I'm leaning towards a suspended ceiling, probably with insulation for
> sound dampening. Any thoughts/experience/recommendations along these
> lines?

It should be OK, but if noise is a particular problem, thee are specialty
products for better sound dampening. I've never used them and I have no
idea how effective they are. IIRC, Owens Corning has some stuff on their
web page about it.
Ed

On Wed, 05 May 2004 18:21:13 GMT, JAW <[email protected]> wrote:
> OK, has aonyone tried using T11 wood paneling and screwing it in place ?
> No finishing, removable if you need to get behind it and it looks good
> in a wood workshop.

And if you leave it raw, it'll be saturated with sawdust in no time,
just waiting to drop into whatever you're finishing at the time.

That's how I did mine (T-11) and I think it's great. It has all the
benefits of plywood or OSB, but looks much better IMHO. The texture breaks
down the loud grain pattern of fir, and the vertical lines add interest. In
my case, with only 8' walls, I left the ceiling open. I find it is cooler,
feels more open, it's easier to store stuff up there, and my trusses were
not designed to carry enough load anyway.

It wouldn't be easy to take a sheet down to work on utilities, but it could
be done.

--
********
Bill Pounds
http://www.billpounds.com


"JAW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> OK, has aonyone tried using T11 wood paneling and screwing it in place ?
> No finishing, removable if you need to get behind it and it looks good
> in a wood workshop.
>
>
> Darin wrote:
> > Al wrote:
> >
> >> - Seems like quite a few shops have untaped drywall walls - is this to
> >> preserve the possibility of pulling and replacing a panel for making
> >> electrical changes, etc. behind the drywall?
> >
> >
> > For what it's worth, I'm reaching that point in my shop. I plan to put
> > up drywall, tape, mud and paint -- but then run all the wiring and
> > plumbing on -top- of the drywall for this very reason. I don't want to
> > have to muck around behind the wall and deal with insulation and studs
> > just to make a few simple wiring changes (or to fix a plumbing leak).
> > For safety, all the wiring will be run in a suitable channel or raceway.
> >
> > Darin

I'm not certain of the correct name, but I'm certain I got it wrong. It
also comes with the grooves on 8"ctrs and on 4" ctrs and the name implies
that feature, as well as different thicknesses. I used the 5/8" stuff.
Just visit your local borg and ask for exterior siding in sheets. They all
carry it.

--
********
Bill Pounds
http://www.billpounds.com


"Al" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:MPG.1b0578a25ea19d959897a3@mayonews...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> [email protected] says...
> > OK, has aonyone tried using T11 wood paneling and screwing it in place ?
> > No finishing, removable if you need to get behind it and it looks good
> > in a wood workshop.
> >
> >
> > Darin wrote:
> > > Al wrote:
> > >
> > >> - Seems like quite a few shops have untaped drywall walls - is this
to
> > >> preserve the possibility of pulling and replacing a panel for making
> > >> electrical changes, etc. behind the drywall?
> > >
> > >
> > > For what it's worth, I'm reaching that point in my shop. I plan to put
> > > up drywall, tape, mud and paint -- but then run all the wiring and
> > > plumbing on -top- of the drywall for this very reason. I don't want to
> > > have to muck around behind the wall and deal with insulation and studs
> > > just to make a few simple wiring changes (or to fix a plumbing leak).
> > > For safety, all the wiring will be run in a suitable channel or
raceway.
> > >
> > > Darin
> >
>
> Where can I find out more about T11 wood paneling? My initial google
> attempts don't seem to be yielding much.
>
> Thanks,
> Al

OK, has aonyone tried using T11 wood paneling and screwing it in place ?
No finishing, removable if you need to get behind it and it looks good
in a wood workshop.


Darin wrote:
> Al wrote:
>
>> - Seems like quite a few shops have untaped drywall walls - is this to
>> preserve the possibility of pulling and replacing a panel for making
>> electrical changes, etc. behind the drywall?
>
>
> For what it's worth, I'm reaching that point in my shop. I plan to put
> up drywall, tape, mud and paint -- but then run all the wiring and
> plumbing on -top- of the drywall for this very reason. I don't want to
> have to muck around behind the wall and deal with insulation and studs
> just to make a few simple wiring changes (or to fix a plumbing leak).
> For safety, all the wiring will be run in a suitable channel or raceway.
>
> Darin