Hi:
I've seen several posts in the past suggesting using a Scotch Brite pad and
ROS for rust removal on Table Saw surfaces. Never paid much attention to
the details. My brother called to ask how to get the rust spots off his
saw. seems a skylight in the shop cracked, and his saw is directly in the
path of the drip.
When I looked I was amazed at how many different "Scotch Brite" pads there
are, in all sorts of different levels of abrasiveness.
Does anyone have information on which would be suitable for cleaning up a
saw table?
Thanks,
Paul
Green
PBS wrote:
>
> Hi:
>
> I've seen several posts in the past suggesting using a Scotch Brite pad and
> ROS for rust removal on Table Saw surfaces. Never paid much attention to
> the details. My brother called to ask how to get the rust spots off his
> saw. seems a skylight in the shop cracked, and his saw is directly in the
> path of the drip.
>
> When I looked I was amazed at how many different "Scotch Brite" pads there
> are, in all sorts of different levels of abrasiveness.
>
> Does anyone have information on which would be suitable for cleaning up a
> saw table?
>
> Thanks,
> Paul
--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA
...........................................
Most people work just hard enough not
to get fired and get paid just enough
money not to quit.
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I heard #0000 (4). Why #000 (3)?
I also heard about finishing (before waxing) with 600 grit wet/dry
sandpaper. Any thoughts? Is that overkill? My table saw top has swirl lines
(looks like it was made that way at the factory) across it (it's not smooth
and shiny similar to say a stainless steel texture like on the Grizzly
G0444Z). Would the sandpaper help that (if not rust)?
By "white" Scotch Brites, do you mean the "delicate-duty" ones?
And then (after all the scrubbing), paste wax. I've heard Johnson's but what
about Minwax Paste Finishing Wax? Is there really a difference?
Reason for all the questions is that I want to have a complete game plan
before I begin.
Thanks,
codepath
"Rob V" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Green then white then 000 steel wool
> all lubed w/ wd40
>
>
> "PBS" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Hi:
> >
> > I've seen several posts in the past suggesting using a Scotch Brite pad
> and
> > ROS for rust removal on Table Saw surfaces. Never paid much attention
to
> > the details. My brother called to ask how to get the rust spots off his
> > saw. seems a skylight in the shop cracked, and his saw is directly in
the
> > path of the drip.
> >
> > When I looked I was amazed at how many different "Scotch Brite" pads
there
> > are, in all sorts of different levels of abrasiveness.
> >
> > Does anyone have information on which would be suitable for cleaning up
a
> > saw table?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Paul
> >
> >
>
>
I went to the 3M web site and didn't see anything other than green and white
(and very little info on either of those).
Where do I get them?
codepath
"John Crea" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Start with the green then work your way thru the finer grades up to
> White
>
> John
>
> On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 11:56:14 -0700, "PBS" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Hi:
> >
> >I've seen several posts in the past suggesting using a Scotch Brite pad
and
> >ROS for rust removal on Table Saw surfaces. Never paid much attention to
> >the details. My brother called to ask how to get the rust spots off his
> >saw. seems a skylight in the shop cracked, and his saw is directly in
the
> >path of the drip.
> >
> >When I looked I was amazed at how many different "Scotch Brite" pads
there
> >are, in all sorts of different levels of abrasiveness.
> >
> >Does anyone have information on which would be suitable for cleaning up a
> >saw table?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Paul
> >
>
What grits do you go through?
So it's:
Green Scotch Brite (WD40)
White Scotch Brite (WD40)
#000 or #0000 (WD40)
??? grit wet/dry sandpaper (WD40)
800/1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper (WD40)
paste wax (no silicone)
BTW: I have webbed cast iron wings. For these, do I just knock the rust off
and wax them (skipping the steel wool and sandpaper steps)? Seems like they
would be a PITA.
Thanks,
codepath
"Rob V" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> There is really no difference between 000 and 0000 (IMO) when doing the
top.
>
> I actually go a bit beyond extreme sometimes.
>
> I do green to white to 000 then I go to wet/dry paper to about 1000.
> (I actually did my saw 1 time to 2000 - basically a mirror finish)
> Then wax (any paste wax will do)
> the 2000 w/ wax was great - it was like glass - wood would slide
> effortlessly across it.
> It seemed to keep the rusting at a minimum also.
>
> Until last winter where it went from 20 to 50 in 1 day - water was
basically
> pouring off all my iron from condensation.
>
> Now I only go to about 800.
>
>
> "codepath" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I heard #0000 (4). Why #000 (3)?
> >
> > I also heard about finishing (before waxing) with 600 grit wet/dry
> > sandpaper. Any thoughts? Is that overkill? My table saw top has swirl
> lines
> > (looks like it was made that way at the factory) across it (it's not
> smooth
> > and shiny similar to say a stainless steel texture like on the Grizzly
> > G0444Z). Would the sandpaper help that (if not rust)?
> >
> > By "white" Scotch Brites, do you mean the "delicate-duty" ones?
> >
> > And then (after all the scrubbing), paste wax. I've heard Johnson's but
> what
> > about Minwax Paste Finishing Wax? Is there really a difference?
> >
> > Reason for all the questions is that I want to have a complete game plan
> > before I begin.
> >
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > codepath
> >
> >
> >
> > "Rob V" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > Green then white then 000 steel wool
> > > all lubed w/ wd40
> > >
> > >
> > > "PBS" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > news:[email protected]...
> > > > Hi:
> > > >
> > > > I've seen several posts in the past suggesting using a Scotch Brite
> pad
> > > and
> > > > ROS for rust removal on Table Saw surfaces. Never paid much
attention
> > to
> > > > the details. My brother called to ask how to get the rust spots off
> his
> > > > saw. seems a skylight in the shop cracked, and his saw is directly
in
> > the
> > > > path of the drip.
> > > >
> > > > When I looked I was amazed at how many different "Scotch Brite" pads
> > there
> > > > are, in all sorts of different levels of abrasiveness.
> > > >
> > > > Does anyone have information on which would be suitable for cleaning
> up
> > a
> > > > saw table?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Paul
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Just make sure the wax you use has no silicone in it. The silicone will find
it's way to your wood and spoil your finish on the piece your making (so
they say - I don't know, but I accept it.)
:-)
"Anthony Diodati" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "codepath" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I heard #0000 (4). Why #000 (3)?
> >
> >>>>>>>>And then (after all the scrubbing), paste wax. I've heard
Johnson's
> but what
> >>>>>about Minwax Paste Finishing Wax? Is there really
> >>>>a difference?
> Same difference.
> Tony D.
>
>
There is really no difference between 000 and 0000 (IMO) when doing the top.
I actually go a bit beyond extreme sometimes.
I do green to white to 000 then I go to wet/dry paper to about 1000.
(I actually did my saw 1 time to 2000 - basically a mirror finish)
Then wax (any paste wax will do)
the 2000 w/ wax was great - it was like glass - wood would slide
effortlessly across it.
It seemed to keep the rusting at a minimum also.
Until last winter where it went from 20 to 50 in 1 day - water was basically
pouring off all my iron from condensation.
Now I only go to about 800.
"codepath" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I heard #0000 (4). Why #000 (3)?
>
> I also heard about finishing (before waxing) with 600 grit wet/dry
> sandpaper. Any thoughts? Is that overkill? My table saw top has swirl
lines
> (looks like it was made that way at the factory) across it (it's not
smooth
> and shiny similar to say a stainless steel texture like on the Grizzly
> G0444Z). Would the sandpaper help that (if not rust)?
>
> By "white" Scotch Brites, do you mean the "delicate-duty" ones?
>
> And then (after all the scrubbing), paste wax. I've heard Johnson's but
what
> about Minwax Paste Finishing Wax? Is there really a difference?
>
> Reason for all the questions is that I want to have a complete game plan
> before I begin.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> codepath
>
>
>
> "Rob V" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Green then white then 000 steel wool
> > all lubed w/ wd40
> >
> >
> > "PBS" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > Hi:
> > >
> > > I've seen several posts in the past suggesting using a Scotch Brite
pad
> > and
> > > ROS for rust removal on Table Saw surfaces. Never paid much attention
> to
> > > the details. My brother called to ask how to get the rust spots off
his
> > > saw. seems a skylight in the shop cracked, and his saw is directly in
> the
> > > path of the drip.
> > >
> > > When I looked I was amazed at how many different "Scotch Brite" pads
> there
> > > are, in all sorts of different levels of abrasiveness.
> > >
> > > Does anyone have information on which would be suitable for cleaning
up
> a
> > > saw table?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Paul
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
The borg, Ace, FoodLion etc...
Dont have to be 3M.
I picked some up at the Big Lots a while back.
"codepath" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I went to the 3M web site and didn't see anything other than green and
white
> (and very little info on either of those).
>
> Where do I get them?
>
>
> codepath
>
>
>
> "John Crea" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Start with the green then work your way thru the finer grades up to
> > White
> >
> > John
> >
> > On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 11:56:14 -0700, "PBS" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> > >Hi:
> > >
> > >I've seen several posts in the past suggesting using a Scotch Brite pad
> and
> > >ROS for rust removal on Table Saw surfaces. Never paid much attention
to
> > >the details. My brother called to ask how to get the rust spots off
his
> > >saw. seems a skylight in the shop cracked, and his saw is directly in
> the
> > >path of the drip.
> > >
> > >When I looked I was amazed at how many different "Scotch Brite" pads
> there
> > >are, in all sorts of different levels of abrasiveness.
> > >
> > >Does anyone have information on which would be suitable for cleaning up
a
> > >saw table?
> > >
> > >Thanks,
> > >Paul
> > >
> >
>
>
They work WONDERFULLY on any metal. Sometimes I use the maroon on
heavily rusted steel but generally the green is my preferred. They
REALLY shine on sanding sheetrock mud-the dust just drops thru it!!!
Also some use them in place of sandpaper although I prefer sandpaper
myself. Also work great on removing corrosion off brass, copper, etc..
On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 11:56:14 -0700, "PBS" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Hi:
>
>I've seen several posts in the past suggesting using a Scotch Brite pad and
>ROS for rust removal on Table Saw surfaces. Never paid much attention to
>the details. My brother called to ask how to get the rust spots off his
>saw. seems a skylight in the shop cracked, and his saw is directly in the
>path of the drip.
>
>When I looked I was amazed at how many different "Scotch Brite" pads there
>are, in all sorts of different levels of abrasiveness.
>
>Does anyone have information on which would be suitable for cleaning up a
>saw table?
>
>Thanks,
>Paul
>
"codepath" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I heard #0000 (4). Why #000 (3)?
>
>>>>>>>>And then (after all the scrubbing), paste wax. I've heard Johnson's
but what
>>>>>about Minwax Paste Finishing Wax? Is there really
>>>>a difference?
Same difference.
Tony D.
Start with the green then work your way thru the finer grades up to
White
John
On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 11:56:14 -0700, "PBS" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Hi:
>
>I've seen several posts in the past suggesting using a Scotch Brite pad and
>ROS for rust removal on Table Saw surfaces. Never paid much attention to
>the details. My brother called to ask how to get the rust spots off his
>saw. seems a skylight in the shop cracked, and his saw is directly in the
>path of the drip.
>
>When I looked I was amazed at how many different "Scotch Brite" pads there
>are, in all sorts of different levels of abrasiveness.
>
>Does anyone have information on which would be suitable for cleaning up a
>saw table?
>
>Thanks,
>Paul
>
Can scotch brite pads be used to remove surface rust on tools? I've
got a bunch of green pads for cleaning bicycle wheels but never
thought about using them on my tools.
"Rob V" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Green then white then 000 steel wool
>all lubed w/ wd40
>
>
>"PBS" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Hi:
>>
>> I've seen several posts in the past suggesting using a Scotch Brite pad
>and
>> ROS for rust removal on Table Saw surfaces. Never paid much attention to
>> the details. My brother called to ask how to get the rust spots off his
>> saw. seems a skylight in the shop cracked, and his saw is directly in the
>> path of the drip.
>>
>> When I looked I was amazed at how many different "Scotch Brite" pads there
>> are, in all sorts of different levels of abrasiveness.
>>
>> Does anyone have information on which would be suitable for cleaning up a
>> saw table?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Paul
>>
>>
>
On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 21:36:36 GMT, "Rob V" <[email protected]> brought forth
from the murky depths:
>The borg, Ace, FoodLion etc...
>
>Dont have to be 3M.
>
>I picked some up at the Big Lots a while back.
Arrrrgh! Those are horrible, cheaply-made Chiwanese wannabes.
I went through a couple packs removing the stain and poly
from my parents' dining set a long time ago.
I got hooked on the 3M Scotch-Brite 7447, the 6x9" maroon pads,
when I worked for a body shop. The painter swore by them and
showed me, the wrench, how well they worked for derusting tools.
I now prefer the super-fine gray (000) Scotch-Brite pads. 3M,
Mirka, and Norton make them and all are high quality.
If anyone buys a box of gray (7448) and wants to trade half
to me for some 7447s, please let me know. I use fewer of the
maroonies nowadays.
Russ at www.woodfinishingsupplies.com sells boxes of 20 Mirka
Mirlon pads for $16.45. I think Scotch-Brite was $18.
http://www.autotoolexpress.com/3-mmm7448.html has the grays for
$16.50
The Borg sold the 3M for $1.99 a pad, over twice the price.
--
Vidi, Vici, Veni
---
http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development
Green then white then 000 steel wool
all lubed w/ wd40
"PBS" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi:
>
> I've seen several posts in the past suggesting using a Scotch Brite pad
and
> ROS for rust removal on Table Saw surfaces. Never paid much attention to
> the details. My brother called to ask how to get the rust spots off his
> saw. seems a skylight in the shop cracked, and his saw is directly in the
> path of the drip.
>
> When I looked I was amazed at how many different "Scotch Brite" pads there
> are, in all sorts of different levels of abrasiveness.
>
> Does anyone have information on which would be suitable for cleaning up a
> saw table?
>
> Thanks,
> Paul
>
>
Try HomeDepot or Lowes for the non-green ones, but I buy my Green ones
in bulk at Sam's Club
John
On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 13:22:42 -0800, "codepath" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I went to the 3M web site and didn't see anything other than green and white
>(and very little info on either of those).
>
>Where do I get them?
>
>
>codepath
>
>
>
>"John Crea" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Start with the green then work your way thru the finer grades up to
>> White
>>
>> John
>>
>> On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 11:56:14 -0700, "PBS" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >Hi:
>> >
>> >I've seen several posts in the past suggesting using a Scotch Brite pad
>and
>> >ROS for rust removal on Table Saw surfaces. Never paid much attention to
>> >the details. My brother called to ask how to get the rust spots off his
>> >saw. seems a skylight in the shop cracked, and his saw is directly in
>the
>> >path of the drip.
>> >
>> >When I looked I was amazed at how many different "Scotch Brite" pads
>there
>> >are, in all sorts of different levels of abrasiveness.
>> >
>> >Does anyone have information on which would be suitable for cleaning up a
>> >saw table?
>> >
>> >Thanks,
>> >Paul
>> >
>>
>