I am going to make some new doors for some kitchen cabinets, and want
to use a durable paint for a finish. The frames were painted in the
past, and by the pulls, and knobs, the paint is coming off. Looks like
it might be latex, but not sure.
The doors, and drawer fronts will be MDF. The frames have no peeling
paint.
What would be a good finish? It's not a high end house, but I want toe
finish to hold up.
Thanks for any suggestions.
Cliff
On Sep 24, 12:46 pm, sailor <[email protected]> wrote:
> I am going to make some new doors for some kitchen cabinets, and want
> to use a durable paint for a finish. The frames were painted in the
> past, and by the pulls, and knobs, the paint is coming off. Looks like
> it might be latex, but not sure.
>
> The doors, and drawer fronts will be MDF. The frames have no peeling
> paint.
>
> What would be a good finish? It's not a high end house, but I want toe
> finish to hold up.
>
> Thanks for any suggestions.
>
> Cliff
I painted some new cabinets (bare wood) using Sherwin Williams
waterborne Proclassic acrylic. Started with their recommended primer
(2 coats, sanded after each) and two coats of finish paint. I used
those smooth foam "hotdog" rollers and also added Floetrol to the
finish paint to minimize roller marks. Finish came out super smooth
and very hard.
Many will recommend oil-based paints, but I needed quick drying and
minimum odor, hence the water-based finish. I would definitely use
the SW Proclassic again.
Kevin
sailor wrote:
> I am going to make some new doors for some kitchen cabinets, and
> want
> to use a durable paint for a finish. The frames were painted in the
> past, and by the pulls, and knobs, the paint is coming off. Looks
> like
> it might be latex, but not sure.
>
> The doors, and drawer fronts will be MDF. The frames have no peeling
> paint.
>
> What would be a good finish? It's not a high end house, but I want
> toe
> finish to hold up.
>
> Thanks for any suggestions.
Commercial manufacturers of kitchen cabinets often go with
precatalyzed lacquer--ML Campbell Magnamax is one example--easy to
apply, cleans up with lacquer thinner, available as a clear or a white
base that can be tinted whatever color you want. Not horribly
expensive either, at least not around here. Very durable coating.
They've also got a waterborne, "Polystar" (or in clear, "Ultrastar"),
but it doesn't brush well, you'll need to spray it for best results.
If you want the _real_ good stuff go with a two-component
polyurethane. IIRC "Awlgrip" is brushable. Do _not_ spray it without
an air-supplied respirator--cartridge masks don't work with 2K
urethanes.
For any of these, read and follow all surface prep and mixing
instructions carefully and use the specified primers if any, and for
the precats when they say "120 day shelf life" they _mean_ it.
Be best to strip any existing paint, if you don't want to do that then
a shellac barrier coat may be a good idea--the solvents in a precat or
a 2K urethane are pretty "hot" and may life or dissolve more
commonplace paints.
--
--
--John
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(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)