jointer or planer first?

In addition to what Don wrote, the planer doesn't do you any good UNTIL you
can flatten a board and for that you need a jointer.

"Don Vest" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:fJjRb.6990$F15.613@fed1read06...
> I wood (joke) go for the joiner first. I primarily only use the planer
for
> reducing thickness. The joiner has many uses.
> If you purchase unfinished edge lumber, it is invaluable.
>
> "Michael Press" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > I've got a project coming up and it'll be the excuse I need for a new
> > piece of equipment. I'm looking for opinions on whether a jointer or
> > planer would be 1) better for this project, and 2) better to have for
> > a while (years) until I get the other. I'd likely get either the
> > Delta JT360 6" jointer or 22-580 13" planer. The planer is $150 less
> > after rebates.
> >
> > The project is milling handrails, approx 1 1/2" by 5 1/2". For this
> > project I need smooth and flat faces and edges, but they don't have to
> > be perfectly parallel (the faces) or perpendicular (faces and edges)
> > since the boards won't be glued up. I'll be starting with rough 6/4
> > white oak.
> >
> > Seems like I could use the jointer for faces and edges, or use my RAS
> > and router for jointing edges and the planer for faces. Opinions?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Michael
> >
>
>

"Mike Dembroge" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I agree with Ed in that if I could only have one, I'd get the planer first.
> In actuality, you really do need both,

I was in the same dilema, so I bought . . . both! My wife found the
jointer used in the classifieds, which seems to be a common item in
our area. At a cost of $175, this made it possible to buy a jointer
and a (new) planer at the same time.

I won't even tell you about the thickness sander I bought last night!
Let's just say that these past two weeks have blown my tax return
(which has yet to be filed . . .)

;>)

On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 20:38:27 -0500, Michael Press
<[email protected]> wrote:

>
>I've got a project coming up and it'll be the excuse I need for a new
>piece of equipment. I'm looking for opinions on whether a jointer or
>planer would be 1) better for this project, and 2) better to have for
>a while (years) until I get the other.

Both. <G> This is hashed out here monthly:
<http://groups.google.com/groups?q=jointer+or+planer+first&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en&btnG=Google+Search>

Barry

I agree with Ed in that if I could only have one, I'd get the planer first.
In actuality, you really do need both, but I think that you can get by
without a jointer longer if you buy S4S wood. Being able to run it all
through a planer to guarantee that it's all the same size is invaluable.
If you're going to start with rough wood, then you really do need both, and
I'm not sure I'd recommend buying either until you could buy both. All this
is with the understanding that you could use hand planes instead, but that's
another avenue altogether.

Mike Dembroge


"Michael Press" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I've got a project coming up and it'll be the excuse I need for a new
> piece of equipment. I'm looking for opinions on whether a jointer or
> planer would be 1) better for this project, and 2) better to have for
> a while (years) until I get the other. I'd likely get either the
> Delta JT360 6" jointer or 22-580 13" planer. The planer is $150 less
> after rebates.
>
> The project is milling handrails, approx 1 1/2" by 5 1/2". For this
> project I need smooth and flat faces and edges, but they don't have to
> be perfectly parallel (the faces) or perpendicular (faces and edges)
> since the boards won't be glued up. I'll be starting with rough 6/4
> white oak.
>
> Seems like I could use the jointer for faces and edges, or use my RAS
> and router for jointing edges and the planer for faces. Opinions?
>
> Thanks,
> Michael
>

I wood (joke) go for the joiner first. I primarily only use the planer for
reducing thickness. The joiner has many uses.
If you purchase unfinished edge lumber, it is invaluable.

"Michael Press" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I've got a project coming up and it'll be the excuse I need for a new
> piece of equipment. I'm looking for opinions on whether a jointer or
> planer would be 1) better for this project, and 2) better to have for
> a while (years) until I get the other. I'd likely get either the
> Delta JT360 6" jointer or 22-580 13" planer. The planer is $150 less
> after rebates.
>
> The project is milling handrails, approx 1 1/2" by 5 1/2". For this
> project I need smooth and flat faces and edges, but they don't have to
> be perfectly parallel (the faces) or perpendicular (faces and edges)
> since the boards won't be glued up. I'll be starting with rough 6/4
> white oak.
>
> Seems like I could use the jointer for faces and edges, or use my RAS
> and router for jointing edges and the planer for faces. Opinions?
>
> Thanks,
> Michael
>

These tools are so different. You can't really substitute one for the
other. I use my jointer 10X more than the surface planer. A jointer
and table saw are two peas in a pod.


On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 20:38:27 -0500, Michael Press
<[email protected]> wrote:

>
>I've got a project coming up and it'll be the excuse I need for a new
>piece of equipment. I'm looking for opinions on whether a jointer or
>planer would be 1) better for this project, and 2) better to have for
>a while (years) until I get the other. I'd likely get either the
>Delta JT360 6" jointer or 22-580 13" planer. The planer is $150 less
>after rebates.
>
>The project is milling handrails, approx 1 1/2" by 5 1/2". For this
>project I need smooth and flat faces and edges, but they don't have to
>be perfectly parallel (the faces) or perpendicular (faces and edges)
>since the boards won't be glued up. I'll be starting with rough 6/4
>white oak.
>
>Seems like I could use the jointer for faces and edges, or use my RAS
>and router for jointing edges and the planer for faces. Opinions?
>
>Thanks,
>Michael

Michael Press wrote:

> The project is milling handrails, approx 1 1/2" by 5 1/2". For this
> project I need smooth and flat faces and edges, but they don't have to
> be perfectly parallel (the faces) or perpendicular (faces and edges)
> since the boards won't be glued up. I'll be starting with rough 6/4
> white oak.
>
> Seems like I could use the jointer for faces and edges, or use my RAS
> and router for jointing edges and the planer for faces. Opinions?
>
> Thanks,
> Michael

I have a planer but no jointer yet. I've gotten buy a couple of years this
way. The decision will be based on the qualityof wood you buy. I'm able to
get rough saw wood that is very straight and flat. I can get an edge
jointed by the supplier, or I can use a sled on the table saw. If I had
warped or twisted wood I'd not be able to get by like that. I've passed up a
couple of good buys on wood because I know it would not go through my planer
properly without jointing it first.

Eventually you need both, but I value the ability to thickness plane over
the jointer.
-
Ed
[email protected]
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome

"Michael Press" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I've got a project coming up and it'll be the excuse I need for a new
> piece of equipment. I'm looking for opinions on whether a jointer or
> planer would be 1) better for this project, and 2) better to have for
> a while (years) until I get the other.

Ideally, both at the same time, as it takes both to properly edge, face and
thickness even dimensioned lumber. That said, and doing primarily furniture,
my jointer gets more use than my planer, by a factor of four.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 1/23/04

In most cases, I would think that you would want to start with a square
edge. You could use the jointer to get that first square edge and then use
a TS/RAS to make the opposite face/edge parallel. If you leave those a
little oversized and you can go back to the jointer to clean those up a
little. Or for another point of view.... get the more expensive one now and
it's easier to talk yourself into the cheaper one later (or sooner).... ;-))

Woody
http://www.woodhashing.com
"Michael Press" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I've got a project coming up and it'll be the excuse I need for a new
> piece of equipment. I'm looking for opinions on whether a jointer or
> planer would be 1) better for this project, and 2) better to have for
> a while (years) until I get the other. I'd likely get either the
> Delta JT360 6" jointer or 22-580 13" planer. The planer is $150 less
> after rebates.
>
> The project is milling handrails, approx 1 1/2" by 5 1/2". For this
> project I need smooth and flat faces and edges, but they don't have to
> be perfectly parallel (the faces) or perpendicular (faces and edges)
> since the boards won't be glued up. I'll be starting with rough 6/4
> white oak.
>
> Seems like I could use the jointer for faces and edges, or use my RAS
> and router for jointing edges and the planer for faces. Opinions?
>
> Thanks,
> Michael
>

On Tue, 27 Jan 2004 04:39:15 GMT, "Mike Dembroge"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I agree with Ed in that if I could only have one, I'd get the planer first.
>In actuality, you really do need both, but I think that you can get by
>without a jointer longer if you buy S4S wood. Being able to run it all
>through a planer to guarantee that it's all the same size is invaluable.
>If you're going to start with rough wood, then you really do need both, and
>I'm not sure I'd recommend buying either until you could buy both. All this
>is with the understanding that you could use hand planes instead, but that's
>another avenue altogether.
>
>Mike Dembroge

I bought the planer first. I figured that I could joint well enough
with the table saw and a plane, which is what I did. now I have a
jointer. what a pleasure...
Bridger

Repost of reply to bi weekly question.

Steps for truing stock.

Absolutely necessary. A flat face to work from.

Joint (make flat and straight) one face (reference face) so you have
something to true (reference) the remaining three sides to. Not to be done
on a planer because the feed rollers will push out any warp and it will
reappear as the stock exits the planer. For the same reason use very little
down force when jointing.

Joint one edge with the reference face against the jointers fence. This will
give you a straight edge that is at 90 degrees to the reference face. Also
an edge to reference the next edge.,

Rip a second edge on the table saw with the reference face against the table
and the reference edge against the fence. Try to do it on the jointer and it
will give you a straight edge but not one necessarily parallel to the first
edge.

Now you can plane the piece to a proper thickness with the reference face
flat down on the planers feed table. Since the reference face is flat the
planer has no warp to press out so the face being planed will be not only be
flat but parallel to the reference face.

The jointer performs the two most critical steps in the process (the
reference face and edge) but, with sufficient dicking around, there are work
arounds. but, without the dicking around, the planer will not perform the
functions of a jointer and the jointer will not perform the functions of a
planer.


--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Michael Press" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I've got a project coming up and it'll be the excuse I need for a new
> piece of equipment. I'm looking for opinions on whether a jointer or
> planer would be 1) better for this project, and 2) better to have for
> a while (years) until I get the other. I'd likely get either the
> Delta JT360 6" jointer or 22-580 13" planer. The planer is $150 less
> after rebates.
>
> The project is milling handrails, approx 1 1/2" by 5 1/2". For this
> project I need smooth and flat faces and edges, but they don't have to
> be perfectly parallel (the faces) or perpendicular (faces and edges)
> since the boards won't be glued up. I'll be starting with rough 6/4
> white oak.
>
> Seems like I could use the jointer for faces and edges, or use my RAS
> and router for jointing edges and the planer for faces. Opinions?
>
> Thanks,
> Michael
>