Hi -
I have a 14" closed-base Jet bs (bought a few years ago), cool blocks, no
riser. Pulley belt is properly tensioned. I have a 1/2" (6 tpi I think)
Suffolk blade. I have no idea how much wood I've cut with the blade but
haven't used the saw for a number of months and don't remember if this has
been a problem before - very strong burnt wood smell when cutting.
Doesn't matter if it's 3" maple, 1" walnut, 3/4" birch ply. I could be
wrong but I think I have to be cutting something for at least an inch or
so before the burning wood smell starts.
I thought maybe the blade needed a good cleaning so gave it a couple apps
of cleaning spray (the stuff you'd use on router bits). Still smell
burning wood. I cut no slower than I ever have; tried speeding up some
but doesn't seem to help.
So I took it off and put on the blade Jet includes with the saw which I've
only used a couple times. Same problem. So I'm guessing it's a feed rate
problem but AFAICT I'm cutting no more slowly than I ever have. The Jet
blade's tips definitely feel sharper than the Suffolk's (so I don't know
if that means it's time to replace the Suffolk). Besides feeding too
slow, what else would cause the burning wood smell? Just a dull blade?
Or could there be some sort of adjustment problem? Also, is there some
visual test for a blade that's worn out (besides no teeth)?
Mike
--
mikeballard at symbol verizon period net
"If your main parachute fouls, deploy your reserve. If your reserve is
also fouled, you have the rest of your life to get it straightened out."
Mike Ballard wrote:
> Hi -
>
> I have a 14" closed-base Jet bs (bought a few years ago), cool blocks, no
> riser. Pulley belt is properly tensioned. I have a 1/2" (6 tpi I think)
> Suffolk blade. I have no idea how much wood I've cut with the blade but
> haven't used the saw for a number of months and don't remember if this has
> been a problem before - very strong burnt wood smell when cutting.
> Doesn't matter if it's 3" maple, 1" walnut, 3/4" birch ply. I could be
> wrong but I think I have to be cutting something for at least an inch or
> so before the burning wood smell starts.
Are you making a straight cut or cutting a radius? If it's a radius is perhaps
the 1/2" blade too wide for the radius being cut, where the back of the blade
is binding in the kerf?
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
Its not unusual for a bandsaw blade to go from sharp to dull very quickly.
As they get dull they heat up and the heat finishes the job. The Jet rep I
deal with recommends Timberwolf blades.
"Rich" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> > Also, is there some visual test for a blade that's worn out (besides no
> teeth)?
>
> No its the smell check. If it smells burnt than your blade is. lol.
>
> Actually if your factory Jet blade is sharper than your suffolk blade than
> suffolk forgot to put teeth on their blade!
>
> All in fun!
>
> Rich
>
>
"Mike Ballard" <dont_w@nt_spam.org> wrote in message
news:m2k6z2p9eb.fsf@west_f1.net...
> I have a 14" closed-base Jet bs (bought a few years ago), cool blocks, no
> riser.
Ditto.
> I have a 1/2" (6 tpi I think) Suffolk blade.
Mine was 3tpi from Suffolk.
> blade's tips definitely feel sharper than the Suffolk's (so I don't know
> if that means it's time to replace the Suffolk).
I happened to have a 1/2" WoodSlicer available, when I was having trouble.
Things improved greatly with a new blade. Dunno what to expect on BS blade
life either, but cutting got substantially easier when I swapped in a new
blade.
On Tue May 25, Dave W disturbed my nap when he said:
> Hi Mike,
> Sounds like a dull blade. Do you have kids, especially sons? All it
> takes is a second of cutting a nail and the blade is .....well, it burns
> wood.
> Dave
>
(nope, I'm the only kid around here). Thanks all.
Are Suffolk still the bs blade of choice? I browsed a FWW article
recently although not in-depth but put more stock in what people are
consistently getting value from over the long haul.
Mike
--
mikeballard at symbol verizon period net
"If your main parachute fouls, deploy your reserve. If your
reserve is also fouled, you have the rest of your life to get
it straightened out."
Hi Mike,
Sounds like a dull blade. Do you have kids, especially sons? All it
takes is a second of cutting a nail and the blade is .....well, it burns
wood.
Dave
"Mike Ballard" <dont_w@nt_spam.org> wrote in message
news:m2k6z2p9eb.fsf@west_f1.net...
>
> Hi -
>
> I have a 14" closed-base Jet bs (bought a few years ago), cool blocks, no
> riser. Pulley belt is properly tensioned. I have a 1/2" (6 tpi I think)
> Suffolk blade. I have no idea how much wood I've cut with the blade but
> haven't used the saw for a number of months and don't remember if this has
> been a problem before - very strong burnt wood smell when cutting.
> Doesn't matter if it's 3" maple, 1" walnut, 3/4" birch ply. I could be
> wrong but I think I have to be cutting something for at least an inch or
> so before the burning wood smell starts.
>
> I thought maybe the blade needed a good cleaning so gave it a couple apps
> of cleaning spray (the stuff you'd use on router bits). Still smell
> burning wood. I cut no slower than I ever have; tried speeding up some
> but doesn't seem to help.
>
> So I took it off and put on the blade Jet includes with the saw which I've
> only used a couple times. Same problem. So I'm guessing it's a feed rate
> problem but AFAICT I'm cutting no more slowly than I ever have. The Jet
> blade's tips definitely feel sharper than the Suffolk's (so I don't know
> if that means it's time to replace the Suffolk). Besides feeding too
> slow, what else would cause the burning wood smell? Just a dull blade?
> Or could there be some sort of adjustment problem? Also, is there some
> visual test for a blade that's worn out (besides no teeth)?
>
> Mike
> --
>
> mikeballard at symbol verizon period net
>
> "If your main parachute fouls, deploy your reserve. If your reserve is
> also fouled, you have the rest of your life to get it straightened
out."
>