OK, got my TS set up, but I have a couple of questions before I get
started.
1. On the Delta 36-444, I looked at the insert and noticed it's not
held down by screws. If I were to make my own 0 clearance insert out
of hardwood, is it safe just to sit it in there like the metal one
that came with the saw? If not6, how should I hold it down?
2. What is safe to use to clean the surface of the saw table? There
are little (i guess peices of plastic) stuck to the table, I can fleck
them off with my fingernail, but I'm not sure if I should use a
cleaner or just buff the table out with steel wool.
3. What should I lubricate the table surface with? I know I shouldn't
use oil or silicone as it can stain/damage my wood making finishing
harder to accomplish, and I know they make spray's for lubricating the
table, but since all I have here is the borgs, I'll have to wait for
those sprays to come mail order. Is there something else that will
work well to lubricate the surface?
4. Is silicone lubricant ok for the fence rails, or should I use
something else? recommendations?
thanks for you help.. I'm just soooo excited that I won't be using my
crapsman benchtop anymore... wooohoooo!
Tillman
"tillius" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> OK, got my TS set up, but I have a couple of questions before I get
> started.
>
<snip>
> 4. Is silicone lubricant ok for the fence rails, or should I use
> something else? recommendations?
>
> thanks for you help.. I'm just soooo excited that I won't be using my
> crapsman benchtop anymore... wooohoooo!
>
> Tillman
Congratulations on the saw. Bies recommend paste wax monthly for all
surfaces of their fences.
Bernard R
...
> > never use silicone. use paste wax like SC Johnson's. buff
> > it slick. DON'T use automotive waxes; they invariably
> > contain silicone.
...
Never had the problem. I've used Simoniz for years on all my tools from TS
to lathe for protecting the metal and never had any wood finishing problems.
Is that because I saw with finish-side up most of the time, plus
sanding, or am I just lucky with the wax, or what? I wax my equip from end
to end of the shop twice a year, have for 30 years.
I also used Turtle Wax in a pinch a few times. Course, it wore off a lot
quicker and noticeably, but didn't give me any wood finish problems.
Just curious what you guys think of that. NOT a guru here by any means, &
got a LOT to learn yet! This ng's helped a lot.
Pop
You probably use oil-based finishes. No beef with them, as the solvent
works fine - non-polar. Lacquer and shellac, with their solvents don't
like the stuff, and the solvent can't disperse it.
Don't use water-based, but I'll bet they'd hate it.
"Pop Rivet" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> ...
> > > never use silicone. use paste wax like SC Johnson's. buff
> > > it slick. DON'T use automotive waxes; they invariably
> > > contain silicone.
> ...
>
> Never had the problem. I've used Simoniz for years on all my tools from
TS
> to lathe for protecting the metal and never had any wood finishing
problems.
> Is that because I saw with finish-side up most of the time, plus
> sanding, or am I just lucky with the wax, or what? I wax my equip from
end
> to end of the shop twice a year, have for 30 years.
> I also used Turtle Wax in a pinch a few times. Course, it wore off a
lot
> quicker and noticeably, but didn't give me any wood finish problems.
>
> Just curious what you guys think of that. NOT a guru here by any means, &
> got a LOT to learn yet! This ng's helped a lot.
>
> Pop
>
>
Martin guitar? Nice... I rented one for a couple of weeks
because all my worldly possessions were in transit overseas,
including my Gibson. The Martin was one FINE sounding git!
I loved the sound of a buddy's 12 string Epiphone too, but
that sucker was hard to play. (those were the days...)
dave
Jim Polaski wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> "Toller" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:b%[email protected]...
>>
>>>put a pin at the back of the insert to keep it from rising
>>>out of place in the event of an "event".
>>>
>>>never use silicone. use paste wax like SC Johnson's. buff
>>>it slick. DON'T use automotive waxes; they invariably
>>>contain silicone.
>>>
>>>wax the rails just like the top.
>>>
>>
>>Reportedly silicone can contaminate the wood and make finishing difficult.
>
>
>
> I've used a can of paste "Bowling Alley Wax" from the local hardware on
> my cast iron for years. No problems and it goes on the TS, fences etc.
> and does nothing for the wood. I even use the wax on my Martin guitars
> and Gibson mandolin.
>
"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:b%[email protected]...
> put a pin at the back of the insert to keep it from rising
> out of place in the event of an "event".
>
> never use silicone. use paste wax like SC Johnson's. buff
> it slick. DON'T use automotive waxes; they invariably
> contain silicone.
>
> wax the rails just like the top.
>
Reportedly silicone can contaminate the wood and make finishing difficult.
put a pin at the back of the insert to keep it from rising
out of place in the event of an "event".
never use silicone. use paste wax like SC Johnson's. buff
it slick. DON'T use automotive waxes; they invariably
contain silicone.
wax the rails just like the top.
HAVE FUN!
dave
tillius wrote:
> OK, got my TS set up, but I have a couple of questions before I get
> started.
>
> 1. On the Delta 36-444, I looked at the insert and noticed it's not
> held down by screws. If I were to make my own 0 clearance insert out
> of hardwood, is it safe just to sit it in there like the metal one
> that came with the saw? If not6, how should I hold it down?
>
> 2. What is safe to use to clean the surface of the saw table? There
> are little (i guess peices of plastic) stuck to the table, I can fleck
> them off with my fingernail, but I'm not sure if I should use a
> cleaner or just buff the table out with steel wool.
>
> 3. What should I lubricate the table surface with? I know I shouldn't
> use oil or silicone as it can stain/damage my wood making finishing
> harder to accomplish, and I know they make spray's for lubricating the
> table, but since all I have here is the borgs, I'll have to wait for
> those sprays to come mail order. Is there something else that will
> work well to lubricate the surface?
>
> 4. Is silicone lubricant ok for the fence rails, or should I use
> something else? recommendations?
>
> thanks for you help.. I'm just soooo excited that I won't be using my
> crapsman benchtop anymore... wooohoooo!
>
> Tillman
In article <[email protected]>,
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:b%[email protected]...
> > put a pin at the back of the insert to keep it from rising
> > out of place in the event of an "event".
> >
> > never use silicone. use paste wax like SC Johnson's. buff
> > it slick. DON'T use automotive waxes; they invariably
> > contain silicone.
> >
> > wax the rails just like the top.
> >
> Reportedly silicone can contaminate the wood and make finishing difficult.
I've used a can of paste "Bowling Alley Wax" from the local hardware on
my cast iron for years. No problems and it goes on the TS, fences etc.
and does nothing for the wood. I even use the wax on my Martin guitars
and Gibson mandolin.
--
Jim Polaski
"The measure of a man is what he will do
knowing he will get nothing in return."
"tillius" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> 1. On the Delta 36-444, I looked at the insert and noticed it's not
> held down by screws. If I were to make my own 0 clearance insert out
> of hardwood, is it safe just to sit it in there like the metal one
> that came with the saw? If not6, how should I hold it down?
The rear of the insert has a pin that goes under the table casting. That is
all that is needed. If you use 1/2" MDF you put leveling screws in the
bottom that contact the supports and a screw in the back as hold down.
Unisaw100 posted simple instructins on how to make inserts. Cheap, easy,
work well. If you'd like a copy of it, email me.
>
> 2. What is safe to use to clean the surface of the saw table? There
> are little (i guess peices of plastic) stuck to the table, I can fleck
> them off with my fingernail, but I'm not sure if I should use a
> cleaner or just buff the table out with steel wool.
Kersosene, lamp oil, WD-40, mineral spiriits.
>
> 3. Is there something else that will
> work well to lubricate the surface?
Paste wax, like the stuff used on floors. Get some Top Cote or Boeshield for
better protection.
>
> 4. Is silicone lubricant ok for the fence rails, or should I use
> something else? recommendations?
Don't know. I've not lubricated mine yet. I'd probably use wax.
Ed