I am starting with 2" squares. I plan on ripping in half a dozen or so 2"
squares by 24 " long hardwoods (cherry, maple). I want to rip them down the
centerline so each ends up 1" x 2" x 24". I have done quite a bit of cross
cutting on the table saw in the past but never much ripping. I don't want
to be too paranoid about ripping, but I certainly want to respect the saw.
Assuming that I use a sharp new blade (10" - 24 teeth carbide) my questions
are: Since the pieces are only 24 inches long will kickback be a real
problem? Secondly, since I will only have 1" between the blade and the
fence at setup, would a 1/4" oak push stick work alright? If kickback will
probably be a problem can I buy some kind of inexpensive splitter kit
somewhere. I doubt that I will cut more than a dozen of these a year so I
am not looking for an elaborate expensive setup that will gather dust......
I probably would feel better if I could install an inexpensive splitter.
Any thoughts appreciated.
-Thanks!!... and My Fingers Thank You!!
First off, you realize that you will not end up with 2, 1"x24" pieces if you
rip a 2"x24" down the center line. Remember that the blade will remove
about 1/8".
Bick back can happen but you can safely rip these lengths if you use a push
stick. I prefer the type push stick that also holds the board down about 8"
in front of the back end of the board. Basically it also holds the wood
down in addition to pushing the wood.
You can get a good inexpensive splitter, $14.95, to be used with a zero
clearance insert here:
http://www.woodcraft.com/Woodcraft/product_family.asp?family%5Fid=5067&gift=False&mscssid=0F65576575AFE41B693D5B69951BDD21
"buck" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I am starting with 2" squares. I plan on ripping in half a dozen or so 2"
> squares by 24 " long hardwoods (cherry, maple). I want to rip them down
> the
> centerline so each ends up 1" x 2" x 24". I have done quite a bit of
> cross
> cutting on the table saw in the past but never much ripping. I don't want
> to be too paranoid about ripping, but I certainly want to respect the saw.
> Assuming that I use a sharp new blade (10" - 24 teeth carbide) my
> questions
> are: Since the pieces are only 24 inches long will kickback be a real
> problem? Secondly, since I will only have 1" between the blade and the
> fence at setup, would a 1/4" oak push stick work alright? If kickback
> will
> probably be a problem can I buy some kind of inexpensive splitter kit
> somewhere. I doubt that I will cut more than a dozen of these a year so I
> am not looking for an elaborate expensive setup that will gather
> dust......
> I probably would feel better if I could install an inexpensive splitter.
> Any thoughts appreciated.
>
> -Thanks!!... and My Fingers Thank You!!
>
>
On Tue, 31 Aug 2004 09:29:49 -0600, "buck" <[email protected]>
wrote:
You'll get beter replies form the excellent people here, but what I
do, strictly for safety, is to use longer pieces, and cut to just past
the marked length. Then gently raise the wood from the saw [or turn
off first], and crosscut to get the length. It's a bit of waste, but
I usually find other uses ...toaster tongs etc., and get to keep my
fingers.
Re kickback: use a suitable hold-down system.
Bill.
>I am starting with 2" squares. I plan on ripping in half a dozen or so 2"
>squares by 24 " long hardwoods (cherry, maple). I want to rip them down the
>centerline so each ends up 1" x 2" x 24". I have done quite a bit of cross
>cutting on the table saw in the past but never much ripping. I don't want
>to be too paranoid about ripping, but I certainly want to respect the saw.
Buck, Do not panic. Ripping is simple with a properly setup saw. For the
size you are ripping, definitely us a push stick. When ripping a 1" wide
piece, use a 3/4" wide with a deep overreach.
http://www.woodzone.com/images/tips/rectpushstick.jpg
These can be made very easily from scrap.
For this king of ripping, I would suggest the blade should be higher than
the depth of the cut by 1/2" or so. This is a highly subjective number and
that I'm sure will be discussed ad nauseum.
Rip away!
Dave
"buck" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am starting with 2" squares. I plan on ripping in half a dozen or so 2"
> squares by 24 " long hardwoods (cherry, maple). I want to rip them down
the
> centerline so each ends up 1" x 2" x 24". I have done quite a bit of
cross
> cutting on the table saw in the past but never much ripping. I don't want
> to be too paranoid about ripping, but I certainly want to respect the saw.
> Assuming that I use a sharp new blade (10" - 24 teeth carbide) my
questions
> are: Since the pieces are only 24 inches long will kickback be a real
> problem? Secondly, since I will only have 1" between the blade and the
> fence at setup, would a 1/4" oak push stick work alright? If kickback
will
> probably be a problem can I buy some kind of inexpensive splitter kit
> somewhere. I doubt that I will cut more than a dozen of these a year so I
> am not looking for an elaborate expensive setup that will gather
dust......
> I probably would feel better if I could install an inexpensive splitter.
> Any thoughts appreciated.
>
> -Thanks!!... and My Fingers Thank You!!
>
>
.... Great idea Bill..... Never thought of that..... In this case however I
need all 24 inches so it's all the way thru...
"Bill Rogers" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 31 Aug 2004 09:29:49 -0600, "buck" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> You'll get beter replies form the excellent people here, but what I
> do, strictly for safety, is to use longer pieces, and cut to just past
> the marked length. Then gently raise the wood from the saw [or turn
> off first], and crosscut to get the length. It's a bit of waste, but
> I usually find other uses ...toaster tongs etc., and get to keep my
> fingers.
>
> Re kickback: use a suitable hold-down system.
>
> Bill.
>
> >I am starting with 2" squares. I plan on ripping in half a dozen or so
2"
> >squares by 24 " long hardwoods (cherry, maple). I want to rip them down
the
> >centerline so each ends up 1" x 2" x 24". I have done quite a bit of
cross
> >cutting on the table saw in the past but never much ripping. I don't
want
> >to be too paranoid about ripping, but I certainly want to respect the
saw.
>
"buck" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I am starting with 2" squares. I plan on ripping in half a dozen or
> so 2" squares by 24 " long hardwoods (cherry, maple). I want to rip
> them down the centerline so each ends up 1" x 2" x 24". I have done
> quite a bit of cross cutting on the table saw in the past but never
> much ripping. I don't want to be too paranoid about ripping, but I
> certainly want to respect the saw. Assuming that I use a sharp new
> blade (10" - 24 teeth carbide) my questions are: Since the pieces
> are only 24 inches long will kickback be a real problem? Secondly,
> since I will only have 1" between the blade and the fence at setup,
> would a 1/4" oak push stick work alright? If kickback will probably
> be a problem can I buy some kind of inexpensive splitter kit
> somewhere. I doubt that I will cut more than a dozen of these a year
> so I am not looking for an elaborate expensive setup that will gather
> dust...... I probably would feel better if I could install an
> inexpensive splitter. Any thoughts appreciated.
>
> -Thanks!!... and My Fingers Thank You!!
>
>
At that part size, and production volume, I'd find a bandsaw to use. Even
if it were a friend's, or one at an adult ed school. Feels safer, wastes
less wood, never kicks back, etc.
You're the fellow making the musical instrument flutes, right? What part
of the country are you in?
Patriarch
I know you don't want to spend a lot, but the gripper from micro jig
http://www.microjig.com/
makes the operation so much safer. I have two of them and use them all the
time.
Jim
www.woodblog.com
"buck" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I am starting with 2" squares. I plan on ripping in half a dozen or so 2"
> squares by 24 " long hardwoods (cherry, maple). I want to rip them down
> the
> centerline so each ends up 1" x 2" x 24". I have done quite a bit of
> cross
> cutting on the table saw in the past but never much ripping. I don't want
> to be too paranoid about ripping, but I certainly want to respect the saw.
> Assuming that I use a sharp new blade (10" - 24 teeth carbide) my
> questions
> are: Since the pieces are only 24 inches long will kickback be a real
> problem? Secondly, since I will only have 1" between the blade and the
> fence at setup, would a 1/4" oak push stick work alright? If kickback
> will
> probably be a problem can I buy some kind of inexpensive splitter kit
> somewhere. I doubt that I will cut more than a dozen of these a year so I
> am not looking for an elaborate expensive setup that will gather
> dust......
> I probably would feel better if I could install an inexpensive splitter.
> Any thoughts appreciated.
>
> -Thanks!!... and My Fingers Thank You!!
>
>
WELL.... HERE IS WHAT I DID. I ripped 2 black walnut, 2 maple, and 1
cherry. I used two push boards/sticks and took my time to be careful. In
fact I took so much time that I burned most all of them.....LOL. I am
looking at this as a learning experience and hopefully will get better as
time goes on and I continue to buy more new blades. I would suggest you all
buy stock in Home Depot. I didn't experience any kickback problems. I did
notice that when I was half way through a couple of pieces that the leading
edge wanted to start coming up off the table but I just pressed harder at
the trailing edge and that seemed to take care of it. Any suggestions for
10 inch blades in the $20-30 range??
-Thanks to everyone for you comments and suggestions. Over and Out!
-patriarch..... Yes I'm that guy..... trying my hand (and fingers) in making
some Native American flutes..... Might work out and then again maybe not. I
never liked ripping wood in the past but did manage. Since this is 2" stock
it will be a little trickier. The overall length is only 24 inches and I
think it should be manageable - but just wanted to touch base with the
people on this board who are the experts..... like yourself!
Thanks for input..... I am living in CO
On Tue, 31 Aug 2004 14:23:05 -0600, "buck" <[email protected]>
calmly ranted:
>-patriarch..... Yes I'm that guy..... trying my hand (and fingers) in making
>some Native American flutes..... Might work out and then again maybe not. I
>never liked ripping wood in the past but did manage. Since this is 2" stock
>it will be a little trickier. The overall length is only 24 inches and I
>think it should be manageable - but just wanted to touch base with the
>people on this board who are the experts..... like yourself!
>
>Thanks for input..... I am living in CO
As far as I know, the traditional Indian methods didn't
use table saws, bandsaws, routers, or box core bits, buck.
;)
-----------------------------------------
Jack Kevorkian for Congressional physician!
http://www.diversify.com Wondrous Website Design
=================================================
Make yourself a "push board" that covers the entire length
of the short pieces. Somthing along the lines of a 2x6 or
2x8 with a small cleat glued on the bottom edge back corner.
This will allow you to have complete forward and downward
pressure during the cut. Keep the blade just above the cut
and let it cut directly into the "push board". It will allow
"total control" with little exposure to the blade.
buck wrote:
> I am starting with 2" squares. I plan on ripping in half a dozen or so 2"
> squares by 24 " long hardwoods (cherry, maple). I want to rip them down the
> centerline so each ends up 1" x 2" x 24". I have done quite a bit of cross
> cutting on the table saw in the past but never much ripping. I don't want
> to be too paranoid about ripping, but I certainly want to respect the saw.
> Assuming that I use a sharp new blade (10" - 24 teeth carbide) my questions
> are: Since the pieces are only 24 inches long will kickback be a real
> problem? Secondly, since I will only have 1" between the blade and the
> fence at setup, would a 1/4" oak push stick work alright? If kickback will
> probably be a problem can I buy some kind of inexpensive splitter kit
> somewhere. I doubt that I will cut more than a dozen of these a year so I
> am not looking for an elaborate expensive setup that will gather dust......
> I probably would feel better if I could install an inexpensive splitter.
> Any thoughts appreciated.
>
> -Thanks!!... and My Fingers Thank You!!
>
>