In article <HgKrc.176047$f_5.110249@lakeread01>,
Buck Turgidson <[email protected]> wrote:
>I am curious about what people's favorite brand of poly is? I have used
>Minwax satin, but I don't care for the finish. About 10 years ago, I did
>some kitchen cabinets with a real nice poly, but I don't remember the brand.
>Maybe Carver Tripp?
>
>Anyway, recommendations would be appreciated.
>
>
I use oil-based polyurethane, cuz its usually going on over an oil-based stain.
And I like a _flat_ (*NOT* 'satin', or even 'matte') layer for the final coat
(over several coats of the much harder high-gloss).
Polyurethane in a true 'flat' lustre is *hard* to find these days. Benjamin
Moore, and ZAR are the _only_ brands I've been able to locate. Both are
'good stuff'. Retail around $45/gallon, 20% less at commercial supply houses.
Note: The flat lustre eliminates any question of a 'plastic-y' appearance of
the polyurethane. At a distance of several feet, you "can't tell" it's
there, at all.
RM MS wrote:
> ACE Brand coatings are superior to anything else I have ever used.
> This includes marine arnish for outdoor use, deck and sidng stains,
> both transparent and opaque, floor coatings, wall primers and paints.
I've also used a number of ACE finishes both for wood and for metal and find
it to be a great value. I would not call it superior to name brands in my
experience, but it's certainly a better value. Seems every bit as capable
as the name brands in standing up over time and is always much cheaper. I
wouldn't use ACE paints to paint a car, but I sure use a lot of their stuff
for other work.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
> Be advised, you'll have to _insist_ on exactly what you want. Hardly
anybody
> stocks the flat, and they usually have trouble even finding it in the
master
> price list. Make 'em keep looking! <grin> I don't have the part number
> handy -- What I've got on hand at the moment is the ZAR -- the distributor
> didn't have enough Moore in stock, and it was going to be most of a week
> for arrival. So, I got the in-stock ZAR. <grin>
>
> Note: repeating -- the flat poly *is* comparatively soft. You want to put
on
> several coats (I do at least 3) of hi-gloss first, and then *one* coat of
flat.
>
>
Got it. I'll call first. Any reason why I can't use a cheaper high-gloss
poly such as Minwax under the B Moore flat, or do I need Moore HG poly?
> >
> >Got it. I'll call first. Any reason why I can't use a cheaper
high-gloss
> >poly such as Minwax under the B Moore flat, or do I need Moore HG poly?
> >
I'm curious. Why? You just spent 10 or 20 or 40 hours putting a project
together, spent $20 to $500 on wood, why are you going to take a risk to
save maybe five bucks?
Ed
In article <gR3sc.176897$f_5.42280@lakeread01>,
Buck Turgidson <[email protected]> wrote:
>> I use oil-based polyurethane, cuz its usually going on over an oil-based
>stain.
>> And I like a _flat_ (*NOT* 'satin', or even 'matte') layer for the final
>coat
>> (over several coats of the much harder high-gloss).
>>
>> Polyurethane in a true 'flat' lustre is *hard* to find these days.
>Benjamin
>> Moore, and ZAR are the _only_ brands I've been able to locate. Both are
>> 'good stuff'. Retail around $45/gallon, 20% less at commercial supply
>houses.
>>
>>
>> Note: The flat lustre eliminates any question of a 'plastic-y' appearance
>of
>> the polyurethane. At a distance of several feet, you "can't tell"
>it's
>> there, at all.
>>
>>
>
>Sounds like the look I am going for on my interior doors. I'll head to the
>B Moore store this week.
>
>
Be advised, you'll have to _insist_ on exactly what you want. Hardly anybody
stocks the flat, and they usually have trouble even finding it in the master
price list. Make 'em keep looking! <grin> I don't have the part number
handy -- What I've got on hand at the moment is the ZAR -- the distributor
didn't have enough Moore in stock, and it was going to be most of a week
for arrival. So, I got the in-stock ZAR. <grin>
Note: repeating -- the flat poly *is* comparatively soft. You want to put on
several coats (I do at least 3) of hi-gloss first, and then *one* coat of flat.
On Sat, 22 May 2004 11:27:01 -0500, "Buck Turgidson"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I am curious about what people's favorite brand of poly is?
Waterlox.
Barry
In article <Up7sc.176925$f_5.58099@lakeread01>,
Buck Turgidson <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Be advised, you'll have to _insist_ on exactly what you want. Hardly
>anybody
>> stocks the flat, and they usually have trouble even finding it in the
>master
>> price list. Make 'em keep looking! <grin> I don't have the part number
>> handy -- What I've got on hand at the moment is the ZAR -- the distributor
>> didn't have enough Moore in stock, and it was going to be most of a week
>> for arrival. So, I got the in-stock ZAR. <grin>
>>
>> Note: repeating -- the flat poly *is* comparatively soft. You want to put
>on
>> several coats (I do at least 3) of hi-gloss first, and then *one* coat of
>flat.
>>
>>
>
>Got it. I'll call first. Any reason why I can't use a cheaper high-gloss
>poly such as Minwax under the B Moore flat, or do I need Moore HG poly?
>
>
Authoritative answer: "I dunno." <grin>
I've always used the same brand -- that way I _know_ there won't be any
problems.
My _uneducated_ guess is that it probably would =not= be a problem. On the
other hand, problems, if they _do_ occur, will, I'm guessing, *NOT* manifest
themselves immediately. Ask me 5 years after I make up a test piece, and
I'll give you an 'informed' answer. :)
> I use oil-based polyurethane, cuz its usually going on over an oil-based
stain.
> And I like a _flat_ (*NOT* 'satin', or even 'matte') layer for the final
coat
> (over several coats of the much harder high-gloss).
>
> Polyurethane in a true 'flat' lustre is *hard* to find these days.
Benjamin
> Moore, and ZAR are the _only_ brands I've been able to locate. Both are
> 'good stuff'. Retail around $45/gallon, 20% less at commercial supply
houses.
>
>
> Note: The flat lustre eliminates any question of a 'plastic-y' appearance
of
> the polyurethane. At a distance of several feet, you "can't tell"
it's
> there, at all.
>
>
Sounds like the look I am going for on my interior doors. I'll head to the
B Moore store this week.
"Buck Turgidson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:HgKrc.176047$f_5.110249@lakeread01...
> I am curious about what people's favorite brand of poly is? I have used
> Minwax satin, but I don't care for the finish. About 10 years ago, I did
> some kitchen cabinets with a real nice poly, but I don't remember the
brand.
> Maybe Carver Tripp?
>
> Anyway, recommendations would be appreciated.
I've used General for several projects and like it very much. It flows
easily, builds well and takes a nice shine. You can use it as a
(recommended) wiping poly or brush it on for a fast build, which I do in
hidden areas. It's available at Rockler, Woodcraft, and a number of
mail-order houses. Be sure to use it with a good brush.
Bob
"Bob Schmall" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]>
I've used General for several projects and like it very much. It flows
> easily, builds well and takes a nice shine. You can use it as a
> (recommended) wiping poly or brush it on for a fast build, which I do in
> hidden areas. It's available at Rockler, Woodcraft, and a number of
> mail-order houses. Be sure to use it with a good brush.
>
I have been using General Finishes since the late 70" and found out a couple
of years that a decent small celled foam brush turns out stunning results.
Robert Bonomi wrote:
> In article <Up7sc.176925$f_5.58099@lakeread01>,
> Buck Turgidson <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Be advised, you'll have to _insist_ on exactly what you want.
>>> Hardly anybody stocks the flat, and they usually have trouble even
>>> finding it in the master price list. Make 'em keep looking!
>>> <grin> I don't have the part number handy -- What I've got on
>>> hand at the moment is the ZAR -- the distributor didn't have enough
>>> Moore in stock, and it was going to be most of a week for arrival.
>>> So, I got the in-stock ZAR. <grin>
>>>
>>> Note: repeating -- the flat poly *is* comparatively soft. You want
>>> to put on several coats (I do at least 3) of hi-gloss first, and
>>> then *one* coat of flat.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> Got it. I'll call first. Any reason why I can't use a cheaper
>> high-gloss poly such as Minwax under the B Moore flat, or do I need
>> Moore HG poly?
>>
>>
>
> Authoritative answer: "I dunno." <grin>
>
> I've always used the same brand -- that way I _know_ there won't be
> any problems.
>
> My _uneducated_ guess is that it probably would =not= be a problem.
> On the other hand, problems, if they _do_ occur, will, I'm guessing,
> *NOT* manifest themselves immediately. Ask me 5 years after I make
> up a test piece, and I'll give you an 'informed' answer. :)
In the meantime, I'll throw out that most compatability problems present
themselves quite immediately. If there are no immediate adhesion problems
and the underlying wood project does not decay into a pile of goo on the
table, then your probably pretty safe. If it does, then consider a liquid
molding project...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]