I have read a lot of folks using petro heaters in their shops along
with the comments relating to black soot, headaches and co. etc. I
have two buildings that I heat for my woodworking business. The
garage which I use as the mill is heated with a combination wood/coal
stove by Russo. In the warmer winter days, a good wood fire will heat
up the mill for several hours using wood scraps. On colder days I
feed the monster with coal. It's reasonably cheap and produces a
consistent temp throughout the day and night. I throw a few coals in
every 3 hours during the work day and feed it generously at night
around 11. This lasts all night until around 8 when I open shop. I
give it a little shaking and begin the routine once again. Nothing
like the feeling of that nice hot stove coming in from the 0 degree
morning to begin work. It is a very dry heat so I often put a pan of
water on the top to give off some moisture. Keeps the coffee hot as
well. The shed which is my benchwork shop is new and well insulated.
I heat it with new hydronic electric baseboard heaters which I
purchased at WW Grainger. They heat the shop very well and
economically too. My electric bill is not out of sight either. The
big problem here is summer with the humidity. Living 50 yards away
from the ocean can raise havic on metal so it keeps me busy cleaning
all the machines daily and making sure that the rust stays away. I
have no problem here but it is certainly more work than winter when
the air is dry.
I wrote this little arcicle for those of you that have room and may
want to heat with wood and or coal. I like it although the coal I got
this year procuces more ash than coal of other years. My supplier is
trying to get the better grade of coal but is finding it difficult
this year. He delivered another 1/4 ton yesterday and says this batch
is better. I think that wood and coal are better than liquid petro or
liquid gas. They produce odors and moisture. Don't try to heat a
cold shop with them for instant heat. The machinery will sweat and
will rust. Keeping a shop warm all the time is best at least at 45
degrees Far. and will not produce as much moisture as will a stone
cold shop at 10 degrees and turning on the heat. A coal stove will
last all night long at even temperatures unlike wood.
Hope that I helped.
Gusty
"Bob Schmall" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> "gustav" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I have read a lot of folks using petro heaters in their shops along
> > with the comments relating to black soot, headaches and co. etc. I
> > have two buildings that I heat for my woodworking business. The
> > garage which I use as the mill is heated with a combination wood/coal
> > stove by Russo. In the warmer winter days, a good wood fire will heat
> > up the mill for several hours using wood scraps. On colder days I
> > feed the monster with coal. It's reasonably cheap and produces a
> > consistent temp throughout the day and night. I throw a few coals in
> > every 3 hours during the work day and feed it generously at night
> > around 11. This lasts all night until around 8 when I open shop. I
> > give it a little shaking and begin the routine once again. Nothing
> > like the feeling of that nice hot stove coming in from the 0 degree
> > morning to begin work. It is a very dry heat so I often put a pan of
> > water on the top to give off some moisture. Keeps the coffee hot as
> > well. The shed which is my benchwork shop is new and well insulated.
> > I heat it with new hydronic electric baseboard heaters which I
> > purchased at WW Grainger. They heat the shop very well and
> > economically too. My electric bill is not out of sight either. The
> > big problem here is summer with the humidity. Living 50 yards away
> > from the ocean can raise havic on metal so it keeps me busy cleaning
> > all the machines daily and making sure that the rust stays away. I
> > have no problem here but it is certainly more work than winter when
> > the air is dry.
>
> Gusty:
> The March issue of WOOD magazine has a comparo of rust removers and
> preventers. The clear winners were Boeshield Rust-Free and T-9 respectively.
> I can vouch for this, having used them for a couple of years.I used them on
> a 1957 jointer two weeks ago. The very light rust disappeared immediately
> under the Rust Free and the T-9 will protect the jointer tables and fence as
> it has protected my table and band saws. They're also easy to use.
>
> And thanks for the good advice on shop heating. I've printed it out for the
> "someday" file.
>
> Bob
Yes thanks Bob. I do use the products you mentioned and they work
well at least for the exposed surfaces. Problem is the inside areas
that are hard to get at or nearly impossible without a complete
machine breakdown. The summer is not a problem at all but when the
temps are below 40F and you lite a fire or turn on the heat I have to
do it gradually. If not, the room will heat up too fast causing
condinsation on all the metal which is a nightmare to dry especially
the insides of motors and cutter heads etc. Thanks again.
Gusty
"gustav" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have read a lot of folks using petro heaters in their shops along
> with the comments relating to black soot, headaches and co. etc. I
> have two buildings that I heat for my woodworking business. The
> garage which I use as the mill is heated with a combination wood/coal
> stove by Russo. In the warmer winter days, a good wood fire will heat
> up the mill for several hours using wood scraps. On colder days I
> feed the monster with coal. It's reasonably cheap and produces a
> consistent temp throughout the day and night. I throw a few coals in
> every 3 hours during the work day and feed it generously at night
> around 11. This lasts all night until around 8 when I open shop. I
> give it a little shaking and begin the routine once again. Nothing
> like the feeling of that nice hot stove coming in from the 0 degree
> morning to begin work. It is a very dry heat so I often put a pan of
> water on the top to give off some moisture. Keeps the coffee hot as
> well. The shed which is my benchwork shop is new and well insulated.
> I heat it with new hydronic electric baseboard heaters which I
> purchased at WW Grainger. They heat the shop very well and
> economically too. My electric bill is not out of sight either. The
> big problem here is summer with the humidity. Living 50 yards away
> from the ocean can raise havic on metal so it keeps me busy cleaning
> all the machines daily and making sure that the rust stays away. I
> have no problem here but it is certainly more work than winter when
> the air is dry.
Gusty:
The March issue of WOOD magazine has a comparo of rust removers and
preventers. The clear winners were Boeshield Rust-Free and T-9 respectively.
I can vouch for this, having used them for a couple of years.I used them on
a 1957 jointer two weeks ago. The very light rust disappeared immediately
under the Rust Free and the T-9 will protect the jointer tables and fence as
it has protected my table and band saws. They're also easy to use.
And thanks for the good advice on shop heating. I've printed it out for the
"someday" file.
Bob