Shaper/Molder

"Mike Bittel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I will soon be purchasing an 8-year old 2-story traditional that needs
some
> TLC to the entire upstairs. The previous owners skimped on all the
materials
> so I want to do the following:
> 1. Remove Carpet
> 2. Remove Window/Door Casing
> 3. Remove Baseboard
> 4. Remove Doors/Bi-Folds
> 5. Re-Paint
> 6. Install 6-Panel Oak & Oak Bi-Folds
> 7. Install New Carpet
> 8. Install New Casing/BaseBoard (Natural Oak).
>
> I am not happy with the selection at the home centers; they offer only 1
or
> 2 different types (Colonial or Teardrop in Casing). I am stuck with 2
1/4"
> casing(since that is the max width my house will allow in many places) and
> maybe a 4" baseboard. I have been to a few Millwork Shops and found W180
> Profile that would look good but it's not available in Oak. There are no
> Sills/Aprons on any of the windows so that makes things a bit easier for
> me.
>
> That being said, I was thinking of going for a Shaper or Moulder equipped
> with a stock feeder to create my own Casing as well as Baseboard to go
along
> with it. I was watching This Old House Yesterday and noticed that Tom
Silva
> had a Moulder with a custom set of knives. There are no Sills/Aprons on
any
> of the windows upstairs so that makes things a bit easier for me. I
already
> know that in addition to this project I will have many other projects
> requiring it so I am not afraid to spend some $$'s to get myself setup.
> When casing runs $3-$6 per foot, this seems like an expense that could be
> justified. I have a 25x40 Shop that has plenty of open floorspace for
> equipment like this and enjoy woodworking with my tablesaw,router,jointer,
> etc.
>
> Any thoughts from fellow woodworkers?

If you are planning to replace all the casing, baseboard, etc. I'd be
inclined to order it rather than make it... If, on the other hand, you are
trying to match existing that cannot be found then make it.

Towards the purchase end, I just got a millwork catalog in the mail Friday
from The Millworks that may be of interest to you. They have oak listed and
a web site at www.themilworks.com .

John

"Mike Bittel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> >
> Any thoughts from fellow woodworkers?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Mike Bittel
>

Shop around some more! Home centers are the poorest place to find millwork
for older homes, they only sell what is popular at the moment. Look up
millwork in the yellow pages, you will find companies that specialize in
doors and trimwork. Surly someone in a reasable area will do custom millwork
for you also. Check with contractors in the area that do high end homes, you
may get some leads that way.

If that all fails, buy the equipment and make your own. It may satisfy your
tool habit!
Greg

Some good suggestions already. If you try to make your own, then
consider doing one room first, the one you care least about, in order
to iron all the kinks out. Plus, doing the millwork for an entire
house with a non-production machine will be tedious.

H.

"Mike Bittel" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I will soon be purchasing an 8-year old 2-story traditional that needs some
> TLC to the entire upstairs. The previous owners skimped on all the materials
> so I want to do the following:
> 1. Remove Carpet
> 2. Remove Window/Door Casing
> 3. Remove Baseboard
> 4. Remove Doors/Bi-Folds
> 5. Re-Paint
> 6. Install 6-Panel Oak & Oak Bi-Folds
> 7. Install New Carpet
> 8. Install New Casing/BaseBoard (Natural Oak).
>
> I am not happy with the selection at the home centers; they offer only 1 or
> 2 different types (Colonial or Teardrop in Casing). I am stuck with 2 1/4"
> casing(since that is the max width my house will allow in many places) and
> maybe a 4" baseboard. I have been to a few Millwork Shops and found W180
> Profile that would look good but it's not available in Oak. There are no
> Sills/Aprons on any of the windows so that makes things a bit easier for
> me.
>
> That being said, I was thinking of going for a Shaper or Moulder equipped
> with a stock feeder to create my own Casing as well as Baseboard to go along
> with it. I was watching This Old House Yesterday and noticed that Tom Silva
> had a Moulder with a custom set of knives. There are no Sills/Aprons on any
> of the windows upstairs so that makes things a bit easier for me. I already
> know that in addition to this project I will have many other projects
> requiring it so I am not afraid to spend some $$'s to get myself setup.
> When casing runs $3-$6 per foot, this seems like an expense that could be
> justified. I have a 25x40 Shop that has plenty of open floorspace for
> equipment like this and enjoy woodworking with my tablesaw,router,jointer,
> etc.
>
> Any thoughts from fellow woodworkers?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Mike Bittel

"Mike Bittel" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<fOVQb.453<snip>
>
> That being said, I was thinking of going for a Shaper or Moulder equipped
> with a stock feeder to create my own Casing as well as Baseboard to go along
> with it. I was watching This Old House Yesterday and noticed that Tom Silva
> had a Moulder with a custom set of knives. There are no Sills/Aprons on any
> of the windows upstairs so that makes things a bit easier for me. I already
> know that in addition to this project I will have many other projects
> requiring it so I am not afraid to spend some $$'s to get myself setup.
> When casing runs $3-$6 per foot, this seems like an expense that could be
> justified. I have a 25x40 Shop that has plenty of open floorspace for
> equipment like this and enjoy woodworking with my tablesaw,router,jointer,
> etc.
>
> Any thoughts from fellow woodworkers?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Mike Bittel

Well at the risk of annoying the non-import crowd..

*****
http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=G0552

or

http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=G1037Z

You will have enough money left over to buy knives also:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/items-list.cfm?&listtype=keyword&keywords=moulder&StartRow=1
*****

I don't want to start any grizzly is good or grizzly is bad wars. So
far I have 4 (tablesaw, jointer, shaper, dust collector) and no
problems.

Take care,

Dave

Eddie Munster <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Those look really great. But, I'll bite. How do you know where they
> where made?
>
> John

Well they are most certainly not made in America but if that was a
deciding factor for every decision you couldn't buy much of anything.

My "American" Chevy pickup has lotsa parts from other countries, I
don't like it but it's reality.

The grizzly's work fine and cost 2/3rds or sometimes less than their
"american" counterparts.

All right there I said it. Now's the time for the Delta folks and the
$350 (!!!) dovetail jig guy to start hollering.

Take care,

Dave


> Dave wrote:
> >Well at the risk of annoying the non-import crowd..
> >
> >*****
> >http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=G0552
> >
> >or
> >
> >http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=G1037Z
> >
> >You will have enough money left over to buy knives also:
> >
> >http://www.grizzly.com/products/items-list.cfm?&listtype=keyword&keywords=moulder&StartRow=1
> >*****
> >
> >I don't want to start any grizzly is good or grizzly is bad wars. So
> >far I have 4 (tablesaw, jointer, shaper, dust collector) and no
> >problems.
> >
> >Take care,
> >
> >Dave
> >
> >

Those look really great. But, I'll bite. How do you know where they
where made?

John

Dave wrote:

>"Mike Bittel" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<fOVQb.453<snip>
>
>
>>That being said, I was thinking of going for a Shaper or Moulder equipped
>>with a stock feeder to create my own Casing as well as Baseboard to go along
>>with it. I was watching This Old House Yesterday and noticed that Tom Silva
>>had a Moulder with a custom set of knives. There are no Sills/Aprons on any
>>of the windows upstairs so that makes things a bit easier for me. I already
>>know that in addition to this project I will have many other projects
>>requiring it so I am not afraid to spend some $$'s to get myself setup.
>>When casing runs $3-$6 per foot, this seems like an expense that could be
>>justified. I have a 25x40 Shop that has plenty of open floorspace for
>>equipment like this and enjoy woodworking with my tablesaw,router,jointer,
>>etc.
>>
>>Any thoughts from fellow woodworkers?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>-Mike Bittel
>>
>>
>
>Well at the risk of annoying the non-import crowd..
>
>*****
>http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=G0552
>
>or
>
>http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=G1037Z
>
>You will have enough money left over to buy knives also:
>
>http://www.grizzly.com/products/items-list.cfm?&listtype=keyword&keywords=moulder&StartRow=1
>*****
>
>I don't want to start any grizzly is good or grizzly is bad wars. So
>far I have 4 (tablesaw, jointer, shaper, dust collector) and no
>problems.
>
>Take care,
>
>Dave
>
>

"Eddie Munster" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a shaper and a nice router table. But if I suddenly had a house
> to do......
>
> I would look hard at those planer/moulder thingys. I think Jet and Sears
> makes one. ( Or check out a CT050 at http://www.busybeetools.com/
> ) This isn't an endorsment and if anybody had one, please speak up and
> let us know how they really work. As it looks easy to make many types
> including crown. This is just an idea. I have a 3hp $haper and still
> this other little buggy looks very intrigueing.
>
> John
>

I've got the 13" Jet molder/planer and a Jet 1.5 HP shaper. My intent when I
purchased these tools was to do relatively small jobs not production runs.
Both tools work but I don't think I'd want to make many many hundreds of
feet of casing, base, etc. for a whole house with either one of them. You
still have to get a flat face and two square, parallel, edges that are
perpendicular to the flat face to get good results.

This isn't just true of "home" production. I've watched my wife's cousin in
his commercial cabinet shop use a W&H Molder to create wide crown molding.
The 16+ foot red oak stock was face jointed, edge jointed, ripped on the
table saw, and then went through the W&H. Sal was working his ass off
running those 16+ footers over his Powermatic 8" jointer. Sal has 4 shapers
ranging from 3-9 HP with power feeds but for crown he uses the W&H. He
doesn't have a four head molder as he doesn't make enough molding to justify
the expense...

Personally, I need to make a couple hundred feet of base and about 400 feet
of casing to match existing patterns in my house. I haven't found the
pattern in any of the millwork catalogs I've come across... I don't look
forward to it!

John

I have a shaper and a nice router table. But if I suddenly had a house
to do......

I would look hard at those planer/moulder thingys. I think Jet and Sears
makes one. ( Or check out a CT050 at http://www.busybeetools.com/
) This isn't an endorsment and if anybody had one, please speak up and
let us know how they really work. As it looks easy to make many types
including crown. This is just an idea. I have a 3hp $haper and still
this other little buggy looks very intrigueing.

John

"Mike Bittel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

> That URL(www.themilworks.com) is not found.
>

Very wierd... I pulled out the catalog to see if I misstated the URL and it
is plain-as-day explicitly listed as http://www.themillworks.com

They also list an e-mail address of [email protected]
Phone is 1-800-933-3930


Google turned up:

Silverton Victorian Millworks-The Millworks
Overview Manufacturer of Victorian, traditional, and country millwork in
white hardwood. Large stocked inventory of more than 1,000 products. Call
for a dealer near you, or shop at Sutherland Lumber. Free catalog.

Contact Info Main Phone 970-259-5915
Location PO Box 2987
Durango , CO 81302

This address matches what is on the catalog.

The link to them on http://www.oldhouseweb.com fails too.


I'll send them an e-mail and see what they have to say!

John





> "John Grossbohlin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > "Mike Bittel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > I will soon be purchasing an 8-year old 2-story traditional that needs
> > some
> > > TLC to the entire upstairs. The previous owners skimped on all the
> > materials
> > > so I want to do the following:
> > > 1. Remove Carpet
> > > 2. Remove Window/Door Casing
> > > 3. Remove Baseboard
> > > 4. Remove Doors/Bi-Folds
> > > 5. Re-Paint
> > > 6. Install 6-Panel Oak & Oak Bi-Folds
> > > 7. Install New Carpet
> > > 8. Install New Casing/BaseBoard (Natural Oak).
> > >
> > > I am not happy with the selection at the home centers; they offer only
1
> > or
> > > 2 different types (Colonial or Teardrop in Casing). I am stuck with 2
> > 1/4"
> > > casing(since that is the max width my house will allow in many places)
> and
> > > maybe a 4" baseboard. I have been to a few Millwork Shops and found
W180
> > > Profile that would look good but it's not available in Oak. There are
> no
> > > Sills/Aprons on any of the windows so that makes things a bit easier
> for
> > > me.
> > >
> > > That being said, I was thinking of going for a Shaper or Moulder
> equipped
> > > with a stock feeder to create my own Casing as well as Baseboard to go
> > along
> > > with it. I was watching This Old House Yesterday and noticed that Tom
> > Silva
> > > had a Moulder with a custom set of knives. There are no Sills/Aprons
on
> > any
> > > of the windows upstairs so that makes things a bit easier for me. I
> > already
> > > know that in addition to this project I will have many other projects
> > > requiring it so I am not afraid to spend some $$'s to get myself
setup.
> > > When casing runs $3-$6 per foot, this seems like an expense that could
> be
> > > justified. I have a 25x40 Shop that has plenty of open floorspace for
> > > equipment like this and enjoy woodworking with my
> tablesaw,router,jointer,
> > > etc.
> > >
> > > Any thoughts from fellow woodworkers?
> >
> > If you are planning to replace all the casing, baseboard, etc. I'd be
> > inclined to order it rather than make it... If, on the other hand, you
are
> > trying to match existing that cannot be found then make it.
> >
> > Towards the purchase end, I just got a millwork catalog in the mail
Friday
> > from The Millworks that may be of interest to you. They have oak listed
> and
> > a web site at www.themilworks.com .
> >
> > John
> >
> >
>
>

That URL(www.themilworks.com) is not found.

"John Grossbohlin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Mike Bittel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I will soon be purchasing an 8-year old 2-story traditional that needs
> some
> > TLC to the entire upstairs. The previous owners skimped on all the
> materials
> > so I want to do the following:
> > 1. Remove Carpet
> > 2. Remove Window/Door Casing
> > 3. Remove Baseboard
> > 4. Remove Doors/Bi-Folds
> > 5. Re-Paint
> > 6. Install 6-Panel Oak & Oak Bi-Folds
> > 7. Install New Carpet
> > 8. Install New Casing/BaseBoard (Natural Oak).
> >
> > I am not happy with the selection at the home centers; they offer only 1
> or
> > 2 different types (Colonial or Teardrop in Casing). I am stuck with 2
> 1/4"
> > casing(since that is the max width my house will allow in many places)
and
> > maybe a 4" baseboard. I have been to a few Millwork Shops and found W180
> > Profile that would look good but it's not available in Oak. There are
no
> > Sills/Aprons on any of the windows so that makes things a bit easier
for
> > me.
> >
> > That being said, I was thinking of going for a Shaper or Moulder
equipped
> > with a stock feeder to create my own Casing as well as Baseboard to go
> along
> > with it. I was watching This Old House Yesterday and noticed that Tom
> Silva
> > had a Moulder with a custom set of knives. There are no Sills/Aprons on
> any
> > of the windows upstairs so that makes things a bit easier for me. I
> already
> > know that in addition to this project I will have many other projects
> > requiring it so I am not afraid to spend some $$'s to get myself setup.
> > When casing runs $3-$6 per foot, this seems like an expense that could
be
> > justified. I have a 25x40 Shop that has plenty of open floorspace for
> > equipment like this and enjoy woodworking with my
tablesaw,router,jointer,
> > etc.
> >
> > Any thoughts from fellow woodworkers?
>
> If you are planning to replace all the casing, baseboard, etc. I'd be
> inclined to order it rather than make it... If, on the other hand, you are
> trying to match existing that cannot be found then make it.
>
> Towards the purchase end, I just got a millwork catalog in the mail Friday
> from The Millworks that may be of interest to you. They have oak listed
and
> a web site at www.themilworks.com .
>
> John
>
>

Mike Bittel wrote:
> Thanks for your input, my thoughts exactly. I want to create
> something unique, something that can't be found at every Home Center.
> I realize that the initial cost is high.
>
> Are there any online vendors that carry Shapers/moulders and knives?
> Any recommendations here on equipment?

For inspiration (if you can avoid intimidation <g>) browse here a couple
hours:

http://plamann.com/sys-tmpl/door/

-- Mark

Thanks for your input, my thoughts exactly. I want to create something
unique, something that can't be found at every Home Center. I realize that
the initial cost is high.

Are there any online vendors that carry Shapers/moulders and knives? Any
recommendations here on equipment?



"Eddie Munster" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Absolutly do it. But don't do it thinking your going to save money. You
> buy wood at retail plus you have the hump of the expense of the
> equipment to get over. And then your still doing the making yourself. Do
> it because you will get a really good, crisp, nice relief moulding
> rather that flattish junk. Also you will probably then notch things up
> in your wood selection too. Do it for the quality. Moulder, sticker,
> shaper or good router table. Study moulding designs.
>
> John
>
> Mike Bittel wrote:
>
> >I will soon be purchasing an 8-year old 2-story traditional that needs
some
> >TLC to the entire upstairs. The previous owners skimped on all the
materials
> >so I want to do the following:
> >1. Remove Carpet
> >2. Remove Window/Door Casing
> >3. Remove Baseboard
> >4. Remove Doors/Bi-Folds
> >5. Re-Paint
> >6. Install 6-Panel Oak & Oak Bi-Folds
> >7. Install New Carpet
> >8. Install New Casing/BaseBoard (Natural Oak).
> >
> >I am not happy with the selection at the home centers; they offer only 1
or
> >2 different types (Colonial or Teardrop in Casing). I am stuck with 2
1/4"
> >casing(since that is the max width my house will allow in many places)
and
> >maybe a 4" baseboard. I have been to a few Millwork Shops and found W180
> >Profile that would look good but it's not available in Oak. There are no
> >Sills/Aprons on any of the windows so that makes things a bit easier for
> >me.
> >
> >That being said, I was thinking of going for a Shaper or Moulder equipped
> >with a stock feeder to create my own Casing as well as Baseboard to go
along
> >with it. I was watching This Old House Yesterday and noticed that Tom
Silva
> >had a Moulder with a custom set of knives. There are no Sills/Aprons on
any
> >of the windows upstairs so that makes things a bit easier for me. I
already
> >know that in addition to this project I will have many other projects
> >requiring it so I am not afraid to spend some $$'s to get myself setup.
> >When casing runs $3-$6 per foot, this seems like an expense that could be
> >justified. I have a 25x40 Shop that has plenty of open floorspace for
> >equipment like this and enjoy woodworking with my
tablesaw,router,jointer,
> >etc.
> >
> >Any thoughts from fellow woodworkers?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >-Mike Bittel
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>

"Mike Bittel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> That URL(www.themilworks.com) is not found.


I got a response to my e-mail inquiry to The Millworks:

Hi! Thanks for the email. Our website is currently undergoing contruction.
We hope to have it up and running again by this weekend. If you have any
questions I can answer for you please give me a call at 800-933-3930.


Donna Hilse
The Millworks, Inc.

I have a WoodMaster planer/molder and the basic setup on it is around $2000
and you have to help get it off the truck. Knives cost $50 - $100 more if
you need really tall profiles.

In my area of KY red oak runs $2.30 per board foot, undressed, $.15 more for
S2S.

--

http://users.adelphia.net/~kyhighland

Absolutly do it. But don't do it thinking your going to save money. You
buy wood at retail plus you have the hump of the expense of the
equipment to get over. And then your still doing the making yourself. Do
it because you will get a really good, crisp, nice relief moulding
rather that flattish junk. Also you will probably then notch things up
in your wood selection too. Do it for the quality. Moulder, sticker,
shaper or good router table. Study moulding designs.

John

Mike Bittel wrote:

>I will soon be purchasing an 8-year old 2-story traditional that needs some
>TLC to the entire upstairs. The previous owners skimped on all the materials
>so I want to do the following:
>1. Remove Carpet
>2. Remove Window/Door Casing
>3. Remove Baseboard
>4. Remove Doors/Bi-Folds
>5. Re-Paint
>6. Install 6-Panel Oak & Oak Bi-Folds
>7. Install New Carpet
>8. Install New Casing/BaseBoard (Natural Oak).
>
>I am not happy with the selection at the home centers; they offer only 1 or
>2 different types (Colonial or Teardrop in Casing). I am stuck with 2 1/4"
>casing(since that is the max width my house will allow in many places) and
>maybe a 4" baseboard. I have been to a few Millwork Shops and found W180
>Profile that would look good but it's not available in Oak. There are no
>Sills/Aprons on any of the windows so that makes things a bit easier for
>me.
>
>That being said, I was thinking of going for a Shaper or Moulder equipped
>with a stock feeder to create my own Casing as well as Baseboard to go along
>with it. I was watching This Old House Yesterday and noticed that Tom Silva
>had a Moulder with a custom set of knives. There are no Sills/Aprons on any
>of the windows upstairs so that makes things a bit easier for me. I already
>know that in addition to this project I will have many other projects
>requiring it so I am not afraid to spend some $$'s to get myself setup.
>When casing runs $3-$6 per foot, this seems like an expense that could be
>justified. I have a 25x40 Shop that has plenty of open floorspace for
>equipment like this and enjoy woodworking with my tablesaw,router,jointer,
>etc.
>
>Any thoughts from fellow woodworkers?
>
>Thanks,
>
>-Mike Bittel
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>