Hi,
We have just bought some furniture for our kids' bedrooms and it is
Scandinavian pine, fairly light coloured & quite nice. However the
surface is slightly rough and it has a kind of unfinished look.
Apparently the pine will deepen in colour with age and look warmer but
we are worried that it is unprotected at the moment. Is it OK to leave
it as is or should we wax it or something before assembling it?
There are two wardrobes and three chests of drawers so an answer along
the lines of "it will be fine just to leave it" would be most welciome
:) If we do need to finish it I would rather not use a paint-on
varnish or hard coating - I would incline towards wax, or maybe a very
light stain. Recommendations welcome.
Thank you for tolerating my extremely ignorant questions - I am very
new to home decorating and we don't get along too well so far...!
Kate
It sounds to me like she is try to avoid the fun putting on a finish, with
all the brushes,drop cloths, steelwool, etc.. How do you think a wipe on
poly finish would work for her? just sand, and wipe on with a rag, almost
like waxing. agreed not as good as the brush or spray on, but it is a
fairly good finish and should be avaible at the local hardware or paint
store.
"Charlie Self" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Yeah, it needs finishing if you're to have any chance of keeping it clean
over
> the years, and in the hope it will retain some of its attractiveness.
>
> From what it sounds like, you need to--lightly--sand with a 150 or 180
grit
> paper then coat with finish. As a quick note, stains are stains, thus are
> coloring agents, not complete finishes; wax is used to produce a sheen on
a
> surface and is not any kind of finish.
>
> If you really, really want to reduce work, there are several types of
stain and
> poly in a can. IMO they look awful, and are far more difficult to apply so
that
> they cover properly than is a two step system, but you may want to go to
your
> nearest home center (dunno what they call 'em in the UK) and check out the
> various types.
>
> You will also run up on spray cans of different finishes. These are fine
for
> small objects, but cost the eart for larger items. If you do decide to
take
> this route, do it OUTDOORS. The mess of overspray plus the aroma of such
> finishes lingers long after the job is done.
>
> Charlie Self
> "All you need in this life is ignorance and confidence, and then success
is
> sure."
> Mark Twain
> http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html
Kate J. asks:
>We have just bought some furniture for our kids' bedrooms and it is
>Scandinavian pine, fairly light coloured & quite nice. However the
>surface is slightly rough and it has a kind of unfinished look.
>Apparently the pine will deepen in colour with age and look warmer but
>we are worried that it is unprotected at the moment. Is it OK to leave
>it as is or should we wax it or something before assembling it?
>
>There are two wardrobes and three chests of drawers so an answer along
>the lines of "it will be fine just to leave it" would be most welciome
>:) If we do need to finish it I would rather not use a paint-on
>varnish or hard coating - I would incline towards wax, or maybe a very
>light stain. Recommendations welcome.
Yeah, it needs finishing if you're to have any chance of keeping it clean over
the years, and in the hope it will retain some of its attractiveness.
From what it sounds like, you need to--lightly--sand with a 150 or 180 grit
paper then coat with finish. As a quick note, stains are stains, thus are
coloring agents, not complete finishes; wax is used to produce a sheen on a
surface and is not any kind of finish.
If you really, really want to reduce work, there are several types of stain and
poly in a can. IMO they look awful, and are far more difficult to apply so that
they cover properly than is a two step system, but you may want to go to your
nearest home center (dunno what they call 'em in the UK) and check out the
various types.
You will also run up on spray cans of different finishes. These are fine for
small objects, but cost the eart for larger items. If you do decide to take
this route, do it OUTDOORS. The mess of overspray plus the aroma of such
finishes lingers long after the job is done.
Charlie Self
"All you need in this life is ignorance and confidence, and then success is
sure."
Mark Twain
http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html
Kate J wrote:
> There are two wardrobes and three chests of drawers so an answer along
> the lines of "it will be fine just to leave it" would be most welciome
> :) If we do need to finish it I would rather not use a paint-on
> varnish or hard coating - I would incline towards wax, or maybe a very
> light stain. Recommendations welcome.
Much of the question depends on th eage of the children. If they are
young enough that crayons are an issue, you'll need a fairly serious
finish. If they are older so that you merely want to keep the
occasional spill from soaking in that is entirely different. Hideous
though it is, polu will protect from little kids crayons. A paste wax,
renewed regularly, will protect against the occasional spill. Only you
know your kids. Hope that helps, not a firm Y/N.
Dave in Fairfax
--
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/
if we are talking about a major armature with very little time and
knowledge/skill and trying to protect a kids bed. Yup Wipe on is great. If
you are Charlie Self forget it.
--
"Sweet Sawdust" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> It sounds to me like she is try to avoid the fun putting on a finish, with
> all the brushes,drop cloths, steelwool, etc.. How do you think a wipe on
> poly finish would work for her? just sand, and wipe on with a rag, almost
> like waxing. agreed not as good as the brush or spray on, but it is a
> fairly good finish and should be avaible at the local hardware or paint
> store.
> "Charlie Self" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Yeah, it needs finishing if you're to have any chance of keeping it
clean
> over
> > the years, and in the hope it will retain some of its attractiveness.
> >
> > From what it sounds like, you need to--lightly--sand with a 150 or 180
> grit
> > paper then coat with finish. As a quick note, stains are stains, thus
are
> > coloring agents, not complete finishes; wax is used to produce a sheen
on
> a
> > surface and is not any kind of finish.
> >
> > If you really, really want to reduce work, there are several types of
> stain and
> > poly in a can. IMO they look awful, and are far more difficult to apply
so
> that
> > they cover properly than is a two step system, but you may want to go to
> your
> > nearest home center (dunno what they call 'em in the UK) and check out
the
> > various types.
> >
> > You will also run up on spray cans of different finishes. These are fine
> for
> > small objects, but cost the eart for larger items. If you do decide to
> take
> > this route, do it OUTDOORS. The mess of overspray plus the aroma of such
> > finishes lingers long after the job is done.
> >
> > Charlie Self
> > "All you need in this life is ignorance and confidence, and then success
> is
> > sure."
> > Mark Twain
> > http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html
>
>
Young Carpenter writes:
>
>if we are talking about a major armature with very little time and
>knowledge/skill and trying to protect a kids bed. Yup Wipe on is great. If
>you are Charlie Self forget it.
WTF did I say about wipe on finishes?
I knocked stain and varnish combos. Nothing to do with wipe-ons.
Armature?
Charlie Self
"All you need in this life is ignorance and confidence, and then success is
sure."
Mark Twain
http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html
cause your anti Ploy
--
"Charlie Self" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Young Carpenter writes:
>
> >
> >if we are talking about a major armature with very little time and
> >knowledge/skill and trying to protect a kids bed. Yup Wipe on is great.
If
> >you are Charlie Self forget it.
>
> WTF did I say about wipe on finishes?
>
> I knocked stain and varnish combos. Nothing to do with wipe-ons.
>
> Armature?
>
>
> Charlie Self
> "All you need in this life is ignorance and confidence, and then success
is
> sure."
> Mark Twain
> http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html
Young Carpenter responds:
>cause your anti Ploy
>
>
>--
>
>
>"Charlie Self" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Young Carpenter writes:
>>
>> >
>> >if we are talking about a major armature with very little time and
>> >knowledge/skill and trying to protect a kids bed. Yup Wipe on is great.
>If
>> >you are Charlie Self forget it.
>>
>> WTF did I say about wipe on finishes?
>>
>> I knocked stain and varnish combos. Nothing to do with wipe-ons.
What does that mean? I don't like combo poly/stain. Check your archives to find
out just how much I've said against "ploy." Uh, that's if you mean "poly." If
you mean "ploy," we're past talking about woodworking and back at politics.
You do have a real problem with reading things into posts that aren't there. Or
is it trying to justify screw-ups you make with anything that comes to mind?
Charlie Self
"A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other
way." Mark Twain
http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html
Ok Better yet that was an off hand comment. I should have left you out of
it. sorry.
Amateur was the intended word but my spell check didn't catch it.:)
--
"Charlie Self" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Young Carpenter writes:
>
> >
> >if we are talking about a major armature with very little time and
> >knowledge/skill and trying to protect a kids bed. Yup Wipe on is great.
If
> >you are Charlie Self forget it.
>
> WTF did I say about wipe on finishes?
>
> I knocked stain and varnish combos. Nothing to do with wipe-ons.
>
> Armature?
>
>
> Charlie Self
> "All you need in this life is ignorance and confidence, and then success
is
> sure."
> Mark Twain
> http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html
Young Carpenter writes:
>Ok Better yet that was an off hand comment. I should have left you out of
>it. sorry.
>Amateur was the intended word but my spell check didn't catch it.:)
>
It wouldn't. It was spelled correctly, if you're talking of electric motors and
similar devices.
Charlie Self
"A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other
way." Mark Twain
http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html
In article <[email protected]>,
Charlie Self <[email protected]> wrote:
>Young Carpenter writes:
>
>>
>>if we are talking about a major armature with very little time and
>>knowledge/skill and trying to protect a kids bed. Yup Wipe on is great. If
>>you are Charlie Self forget it.
>
>WTF did I say about wipe on finishes?
>
>I knocked stain and varnish combos. Nothing to do with wipe-ons.
>
>Armature?
motor-mouth got all wound up, and mis-spelled "amateur".
Tung oil (at least the real stuff) wouldn't be practical for a bed that
might get much use/abuse
--
"Rob-J" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I would wipe on a few coats of tung oil. It will protect the wood and
allow
> the wood to natually color.
>
>
Young Carpenter writes:
>
>Tung oil (at least the real stuff) wouldn't be practical for a bed that
>might get much use/abuse
Most tung oils on the market today are reinforced. UGL makes a good ne, ZAR
Wipe On, available in several sheens. About as easy to put on as anything
you'll ever find.
Charlie Self
"All you need in this life is ignorance and confidence, and then success is
sure."
Mark Twain
http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html
is it all that durable though?
--
"Charlie Self" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Young Carpenter writes:
>
> >
> >Tung oil (at least the real stuff) wouldn't be practical for a bed that
> >might get much use/abuse
>
> Most tung oils on the market today are reinforced. UGL makes a good ne,
ZAR
> Wipe On, available in several sheens. About as easy to put on as anything
> you'll ever find.
>
> Charlie Self
> "All you need in this life is ignorance and confidence, and then success
is
> sure."
> Mark Twain
> http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html
There is a pure tung oil that dries very slowly and offers almost no
protection and tung oil finishes, mixtures of oil and a varnish that
can be wiped on and do pffer some protection.
On Tue, 03 Feb 2004 13:11:06 GMT, "Buck Turgidson" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Stain won't protect the wood, just darken it. Wax on bare wood is usually
>not a good idea. Here in the US we have something called Tung oil, which is
>like varnish, but you can apply it with a cheesecloth.
[email protected] (Kate J) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Hi,
>
> We have just bought some furniture for our kids' bedrooms and it is
> Scandinavian pine, fairly light coloured & quite nice. However the
> surface is slightly rough and it has a kind of unfinished look.
> Apparently the pine will deepen in colour with age and look warmer but
> we are worried that it is unprotected at the moment. Is it OK to leave
> it as is or should we wax it or something before assembling it?
>
> There are two wardrobes and three chests of drawers so an answer along
> the lines of "it will be fine just to leave it" would be most welciome
> :) If we do need to finish it I would rather not use a paint-on
> varnish or hard coating - I would incline towards wax, or maybe a very
> light stain. Recommendations welcome.
>
> Thank you for tolerating my extremely ignorant questions - I am very
> new to home decorating and we don't get along too well so far...!
>
> Kate
Based on your description, I am going to guess.....IKEA? (Assuming
they have such things in the UK). If so, I will further guess that it
really is finished, but is natural - i.e. no stain or other coloring,
just a laquer sprayed on finish. If my guesses are correct, you don't
need any further finishing. However, it you wanted a smoother finish
then a scuff sanding with 220 grit sandpaper followed by a couple of
coats of clear shellac (Zinsser, if available in the UK, is fine for
this application) would be appropriate. If you want that older pine
appearance, use amber shellac instead of clear shellac (same
manufacturer - can be purchased in home centers in the US - don't know
about UK). All this is just so much BS if this really is unfinished
furniture, but at least here that wouldn't come as a assemble it
yourself package and they would make something of a big deal about
finishing it yourself. Also here you wouldn't tend to find unfinished
in scandinavian pine ;)
Dave Hall
Neither stain nor wax is a protective finish. Wax, if done on a regular
basis may help protect the wood from having some of the stickier stuff kids
can find from, if not left on for too long, staying stuck to the wood. Other
then that and any change in color wax or stain may impart to the wood you
may as well not bother as far as protection goes.
With the furniture you describe and your stated preferences I would use
three or four coats of a Danish Oil. Danish oil is a wipe on wipe off mix of
curing oil with some varnish type resins. Watco, one brand of Danish oil,
comes in natural and a range of colors. The natural will warm the look of
the pine. I'd follow up the Danish oil with a coat of wax, again that will
help keep some of the stickier things kids can find from sticking to the
wood.
While not high on the protection scale it should do the job nicely on things
like a wardrobes and chests. If there are any level surfaces at playing
height, you know, low enough to land toy planes on or race match box cars on
I'd consider having some tempered glass cut to fit those surfaces. That and
add some little no slip buttons on the corners of the glass.
Further notes. If you do use a Danish oil I would not put it on the inside
of any of the drawers. Leave the drawers, except for the fronts, unfinished.
Danish oil does take awhile to cure fully and will have a distinctive odor
that will take awhile to dissipate fully. Apply the oil as directed on the
can and do not neglect to wipe it off the excess after the stated period of
time. Another plus with Danish oil is that it can be easily renewed by
application of another coat or two. The wax over the Danish oil should also
be renewed occasionally for best appearance.
Good luck
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Kate J" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi,
>
> We have just bought some furniture for our kids' bedrooms and it is
> Scandinavian pine, fairly light coloured & quite nice. However the
> surface is slightly rough and it has a kind of unfinished look.
> Apparently the pine will deepen in colour with age and look warmer but
> we are worried that it is unprotected at the moment. Is it OK to leave
> it as is or should we wax it or something before assembling it?
>
> There are two wardrobes and three chests of drawers so an answer along
> the lines of "it will be fine just to leave it" would be most welciome
> :) If we do need to finish it I would rather not use a paint-on
> varnish or hard coating - I would incline towards wax, or maybe a very
> light stain. Recommendations welcome.
>
> Thank you for tolerating my extremely ignorant questions - I am very
> new to home decorating and we don't get along too well so far...!
>
> Kate
On 03 Feb 2004, Kate J wrote
> Hi,
>
> We have just bought some furniture for our kids' bedrooms and it
> is Scandinavian pine, fairly light coloured & quite nice. However
> the surface is slightly rough and it has a kind of unfinished
> look. Apparently the pine will deepen in colour with age and look
> warmer but we are worried that it is unprotected at the moment. Is
> it OK to leave it as is or should we wax it or something before
> assembling it?
>
> There are two wardrobes and three chests of drawers so an answer
> along the lines of "it will be fine just to leave it" would be
> most welciome
>:) If we do need to finish it I would rather not use a paint-on
> varnish or hard coating - I would incline towards wax, or maybe a
> very light stain. Recommendations welcome.
>
> Thank you for tolerating my extremely ignorant questions - I am
> very new to home decorating and we don't get along too well so
> far...!
I'd agree with David's response, and would confirm that the same basic
situation applies here in the UK as it does where he is.
Unless it was labelled along the lines of "ready to finish", it's
almost certainly got some sort of natural-looking sealant on it.
Where did you buy it? Did it say anything about having to finish it
yourself?
--
Cheers,
Harvey
For e-mail, change harvey to whhvs.
Ok It would be fine just to leave it :>)
That being said, I would finish it to control moisture exchange.
Perhaps a water base poly to retain the light look.
Tony D.
"Kate J" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi,
>
> We have just bought some furniture for our kids' bedrooms and it is
> Scandinavian pine, fairly light coloured & quite nice. However the
> surface is slightly rough and it has a kind of unfinished look.
> Apparently the pine will deepen in colour with age and look warmer but
> we are worried that it is unprotected at the moment. Is it OK to leave
> it as is or should we wax it or something before assembling it?
>
> There are two wardrobes and three chests of drawers so an answer along
> the lines of "it will be fine just to leave it" would be most welciome
> :) If we do need to finish it I would rather not use a paint-on
> varnish or hard coating - I would incline towards wax, or maybe a very
> light stain. Recommendations welcome.
>
> Thank you for tolerating my extremely ignorant questions - I am very
> new to home decorating and we don't get along too well so far...!
>
> Kate
>
> We have just bought some furniture for our kids' bedrooms and it is
> Scandinavian pine, fairly light coloured & quite nice. However the
> surface is slightly rough and it has a kind of unfinished look.
> Apparently the pine will deepen in colour with age and look warmer but
> we are worried that it is unprotected at the moment. Is it OK to leave
> it as is or should we wax it or something before assembling it?
>
> There are two wardrobes and three chests of drawers so an answer along
> the lines of "it will be fine just to leave it" would be most welciome
> :) If we do need to finish it I would rather not use a paint-on
> varnish or hard coating - I would incline towards wax, or maybe a very
> light stain. Recommendations welcome.
>
> Thank you for tolerating my extremely ignorant questions - I am very
> new to home decorating and we don't get along too well so far...!
>
Stain won't protect the wood, just darken it. Wax on bare wood is usually
not a good idea. Here in the US we have something called Tung oil, which is
like varnish, but you can apply it with a cheesecloth.
Some years ago I built a couple of two-tier tables out of pine. It was
my intention to paint them gloss white, but before I did so a house-mate
asked me, "why paint them?" I had no answer and never did paint them. In
fact, as I'd constructed them I filled in blemishes with fillers that
are somewhat unsightly, so in that respect I suppose the pieces do beg
for paint. Maybe someday.
Last year I constructed 3 large pine bookcases, and I again could have
left them unfinished but I instead decided to finish them. I did a fair
amount of research and decided on shellac. Actually, I'd gotten the idea
from a fellow in a store that sold pine bookcases (unfinished). He
recommended a white shellac, and I believe he was referring to a shellac
that when dry looks like white paint (has white pigmentation). Shellac
has the virtue of sealing effectively, so that resins do not exude from
knots, eventually spoiling the finish.
I did further research before embarking on the project. I decided to
finish the wood prior to assembling the bookcases (after cutting and
sanding however). I also decided to do a preconditioning with boiled
linseed oil - wipe on, let sit 15 minutes, wipe off thoroughly with
rags, and let sit for several days or a week or more to cure (dry to the
touch). This was said to accentuate the grain for a more pleasing effect
after shellacing.
I chose an orange shellac and applied two full coats after a thinned
(with alcohol) shellac initial coat.
Lastly, a couple of applications of furniture wax with 00 steel wool,
followed by polishing with rags, gave a fine furniture look and feel.
I'm very pleased with the warm look of the finished bookcases, which I
just finished installing in their final location yesterday.
You may not want to do something like this if you are antsy to get these
installed, and I figure you probably are. Anyway, maybe you are
completely OK not finished them at all! :) I don't believe that it's
"necessary," and that was your question.
"Kate J" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi,
>
> We have just bought some furniture for our kids' bedrooms and it is
> Scandinavian pine, fairly light coloured & quite nice. However the
> surface is slightly rough and it has a kind of unfinished look.
> Apparently the pine will deepen in colour with age and look warmer but
> we are worried that it is unprotected at the moment. Is it OK to leave
> it as is or should we wax it or something before assembling it?
>
> There are two wardrobes and three chests of drawers so an answer along
> the lines of "it will be fine just to leave it" would be most welciome
> :) If we do need to finish it I would rather not use a paint-on
> varnish or hard coating - I would incline towards wax, or maybe a very
> light stain. Recommendations welcome.
>
> Thank you for tolerating my extremely ignorant questions - I am very
> new to home decorating and we don't get along too well so far...!
>
> Kate
Kate:
Call the place where you bought it and find out if it is in fact unfinished.
Some finishes are so flat that they are very hard to detect; e.g., an
armoire of ours reflects almost no light and my wife keeps asking me to
varnish it. If it turns out to be unfinished, follow Charlie Self's
excellent advice.
Bob Schmall