Doing test rail and stile doors for a sharpening center
cabinet to show off bookmatched panels of a grain pattern
I'm told is called Bear Clawed (looks like claw marks
in the faces of the panels).
Stock is a smidge over 3/4 inch with 1/4 inch wide by
5/16 inch deep dado/groove for the panels to sit in,
the groove being centered on the stock. Wanted to use
the test doors to try out various edge treatments.
Have a half inch roundover, eighth inch bead and a
45 degree chamfer bit - all with guide bearings.
UNFORUTNATELY - the guide bearing fits in the panel
dado/groove and therefore can't do what it's suppose
to do - limit the depth of cut.
I could cut and fit some groove inserts but that'd
be a PITA since removing them would be a hassle if
they fit snug.
DO - are thicker bearings of the standard diameter
used on these bits available and if so where? I'm
guessing that if they are, the bolt/screw that holds
the bearing to the top of the bit will also be
needed to accomodate the additional thickness?
Sure am glad I did test doors - hate to waste the
maple the real doors are made out of. The test
doors are also useful for testing basics of finish
options - dewaxed super blonde and garnet shellac,
Watco teak oil, Watco Danish Oil -Golden Oak and
maybe some good old BLO.
Help - please.
charlie b
On Wed, 18 Feb 2004 11:51:02 -0800, charlie b <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Doing test rail and stile doors for a sharpening center
>cabinet to show off bookmatched panels of a grain pattern
>I'm told is called Bear Clawed (looks like claw marks
>in the faces of the panels).
>
>Stock is a smidge over 3/4 inch with 1/4 inch wide by
>5/16 inch deep dado/groove for the panels to sit in,
>the groove being centered on the stock. Wanted to use
>the test doors to try out various edge treatments.
>Have a half inch roundover, eighth inch bead and a
>45 degree chamfer bit - all with guide bearings.
>UNFORUTNATELY - the guide bearing fits in the panel
>dado/groove and therefore can't do what it's suppose
>to do - limit the depth of cut.
>
>I could cut and fit some groove inserts but that'd
>be a PITA since removing them would be a hassle if
>they fit snug.
>
>DO - are thicker bearings of the standard diameter
>used on these bits available and if so where? I'm
>guessing that if they are, the bolt/screw that holds
>the bearing to the top of the bit will also be
>needed to accomodate the additional thickness?
>
>Sure am glad I did test doors - hate to waste the
>maple the real doors are made out of. The test
>doors are also useful for testing basics of finish
>options - dewaxed super blonde and garnet shellac,
>Watco teak oil, Watco Danish Oil -Golden Oak and
>maybe some good old BLO.
>
>Help - please.
>
>charlie b
Got a router table? Set the fence opening colinear with the bearing
and rout the pieces using fence as a guide.
>C ould you use two bearings on same bit, one on top of the other?
> d
Good idea, will check that option out. I suspect that the
screw tha holds the bearing to the top of the bit is going
to be too short. Might be able to find a longer one at
the local ACE Hardware.
jev wrote:
>
>
> Got a router table? Set the fence opening colinear with the bearing
> and rout the pieces using fence as a guide.
Yes, have a router table with fence - the JoinTech Cabinet Maker
System. That would work on the outside of the door frame but
that's not the problem. If you reread my original post, it's
doing the inside of the rails and stiles - the inside face with
the groove/dado for the panel in the cabinet door. ASCII
diagram explain the problem better. The rails and stiles are
dry fit, pinned and routed before putting the panel in and
glueing the door up.
+------------
|
+-----+
+------+ |
| | | STILE OR RAIL
+------+ |
\+---*
\
----------+------------
> Cut a filler piece of scrap that will fit in the dado and be flush
> with the surface should let you do what you want
>
> John
Groove is 1/4 inch wide by 5/16th deep. Ripping strips this
size for two cabinet doors, one with dual panels comes to
about 14 lineal feet. Tried that idea and found that the
"fillers" had to be exactly flush with the inside face of
the door frame. When the fit is right the fillers are
a royal PITA to get out after routing. Any gaps in the
filler strips result in a less than adequate shaped
edge.
This is a Catch 22 situation. If you cut the mortises
and tenons first you need a groove for the haunhc part of
the rails' tenons so you have to route the groove BEFORE
you can put the frame together so you can route the
INSIDE edges. But if you've alreay done the groove the
guide bearing slips into it and ...
I could use the Micro-Fence but that won't do the inside
corners.
Anyone know where to get thcker router bit guide
bearings? 3/8 or 7/16th would be great.
charlie b
Cut a filler piece of scrap that will fit in the dado and be flush
with the surface should let you do what you want
John
On Wed, 18 Feb 2004 11:51:02 -0800, charlie b <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Doing test rail and stile doors for a sharpening center
>cabinet to show off bookmatched panels of a grain pattern
>I'm told is called Bear Clawed (looks like claw marks
>in the faces of the panels).
>
>Stock is a smidge over 3/4 inch with 1/4 inch wide by
>5/16 inch deep dado/groove for the panels to sit in,
>the groove being centered on the stock. Wanted to use
>the test doors to try out various edge treatments.
>Have a half inch roundover, eighth inch bead and a
>45 degree chamfer bit - all with guide bearings.
>UNFORUTNATELY - the guide bearing fits in the panel
>dado/groove and therefore can't do what it's suppose
>to do - limit the depth of cut.
>
>I could cut and fit some groove inserts but that'd
>be a PITA since removing them would be a hassle if
>they fit snug.
>
>DO - are thicker bearings of the standard diameter
>used on these bits available and if so where? I'm
>guessing that if they are, the bolt/screw that holds
>the bearing to the top of the bit will also be
>needed to accomodate the additional thickness?
>
>Sure am glad I did test doors - hate to waste the
>maple the real doors are made out of. The test
>doors are also useful for testing basics of finish
>options - dewaxed super blonde and garnet shellac,
>Watco teak oil, Watco Danish Oil -Golden Oak and
>maybe some good old BLO.
>
>Help - please.
>
>charlie b
Could you use two bearings on same bit, one on top of the other?
d
"charlie b" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Doing test rail and stile doors for a sharpening center
> cabinet to show off bookmatched panels of a grain pattern
> I'm told is called Bear Clawed (looks like claw marks
> in the faces of the panels).
>
> Stock is a smidge over 3/4 inch with 1/4 inch wide by
> 5/16 inch deep dado/groove for the panels to sit in,
> the groove being centered on the stock. Wanted to use
> the test doors to try out various edge treatments.
> Have a half inch roundover, eighth inch bead and a
> 45 degree chamfer bit - all with guide bearings.
> UNFORUTNATELY - the guide bearing fits in the panel
> dado/groove and therefore can't do what it's suppose
> to do - limit the depth of cut.
>
> I could cut and fit some groove inserts but that'd
> be a PITA since removing them would be a hassle if
> they fit snug.
>
> DO - are thicker bearings of the standard diameter
> used on these bits available and if so where? I'm
> guessing that if they are, the bolt/screw that holds
> the bearing to the top of the bit will also be
> needed to accomodate the additional thickness?
>
> Sure am glad I did test doors - hate to waste the
> maple the real doors are made out of. The test
> doors are also useful for testing basics of finish
> options - dewaxed super blonde and garnet shellac,
> Watco teak oil, Watco Danish Oil -Golden Oak and
> maybe some good old BLO.
>
> Help - please.
>
> charlie b
In article <[email protected]>, jvogel20
[email protected] says...
> >Help - please.
> >
> >charlie b
>
> Got a router table? Set the fence opening colinear with the bearing
> and rout the pieces using fence as a guide.
>
>
Ditto on this suggestion, Charlie. . .
Kim
Simple fix.. Cut a piece(or pieces) of stock 1/4 x 5/16 by as long as you
need. Slip it into the dado. Your router bit will now run just fine. When
you are done, slip the spacer out and move on.
charlie b <[email protected]> wrote in news:4033C226.3218
@accesscom.com:
> Doing test rail and stile doors for a sharpening center
> cabinet to show off bookmatched panels of a grain pattern
> I'm told is called Bear Clawed (looks like claw marks
> in the faces of the panels).
>
> Stock is a smidge over 3/4 inch with 1/4 inch wide by
> 5/16 inch deep dado/groove for the panels to sit in,
> the groove being centered on the stock. Wanted to use
> the test doors to try out various edge treatments.
> Have a half inch roundover, eighth inch bead and a
> 45 degree chamfer bit - all with guide bearings.
> UNFORUTNATELY - the guide bearing fits in the panel
> dado/groove and therefore can't do what it's suppose
> to do - limit the depth of cut.
>
> I could cut and fit some groove inserts but that'd
> be a PITA since removing them would be a hassle if
> they fit snug.
>
> DO - are thicker bearings of the standard diameter
> used on these bits available and if so where? I'm
> guessing that if they are, the bolt/screw that holds
> the bearing to the top of the bit will also be
> needed to accomodate the additional thickness?
>
> Sure am glad I did test doors - hate to waste the
> maple the real doors are made out of. The test
> doors are also useful for testing basics of finish
> options - dewaxed super blonde and garnet shellac,
> Watco teak oil, Watco Danish Oil -Golden Oak and
> maybe some good old BLO.
>
> Help - please.
>
> charlie b